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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
You guys would have heard about these by now, I'm sure.


RC's first ever car just for Drifting, complete with special drift tyres & a nicely detailed drift-classic shell (has wipers etc - nice!!).


Chassis is based on Yokomo's recently released SD CGM shaft-drive racer, so its no crappy design either - put race slicks on & it'll make a great club racer (imho on par with latest Tamiya TB02).


Is there enough interest here to organise a GROUP BUY??


These things supposedly has a US street price of ~US$280.


What if we buy enough, and get them landed at your door for around A$350 or less?? (price includes OzPost delivery anywhere in Oz!)









So, WHO's INTERESTED??



Need to know by latest Easter, so pls yell now or forever hold your peace.


(nb: car kit with unpainted shell only; BYO radio/electronics/battery/paint/drifting skills)
 

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Ohh yeah! could be keen! Though, aside from the 180SX/AE86 body,
and the tyres, what is particular towards drifting with these kits? Is
there anything DIFFERENT about them aside from the body and tyres?

I can get the TA04 to drift nice with just some tape on the tyres...

Is it possible to just get a 180sx body and the tyres? Also they make
fake brake rotors that slot in behind the wheels, they are cool
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Main concept with these kits is that you get EVERYTHING for your drift car in the one box, nobody said you can't do it yourself with your own ingenuity.


Kit comes with the full shell, the drift tyres AND the chrome wheels with rotors.


Spareparts will definitely be available in Oz, exact prices not yet announced... but Yokomo stuff won't ever be bargain basement. If you're gunna buy the shell + tyres + chrome wheels + accessories... you might as well just get the kit and get a "free" Yok CGM chassis.



And oh... not as if you're the ONLY guy with those same ideas, whole of Asia & US is waiting. Dare say also Yok kit owners will get 1st preference of all/any sparepart items that do arrive.


Our challenge now is just getting them kits; Yok is having trouble keeping up with worldwide demand.
 
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Are these 1/10? and do you have more specific specs on internals? do
they come with radio gear? does standard sized radio gear fit?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
bzchi said:
Are these 1/10? and do you have more specific specs on internals? do they come with radio gear? does standard sized radio gear fit?
Yep, 1/10 touring car.
Chassis is based on the Yokomo SD CGMcar, shaftdrive 4WD touring race chassis. The Yok SD has proven prety successful in pro hands; only came out about 6 mths ago so its the very latest design.
Said above... BYO radiogear.
Yep, any std radio gear should fit - its a 1/10 car after all.

This is the Drift Special's chassis:-

this is the Yokomo MR4-TC SD CGM (1/10th EP):-
<DIV align=left>
</DIV>
<DIV align=left></DIV>
<DIV align=left>Can you spot the family resemblances??
</DIV>
<DIV align=left>(I'm told all parts & hopups are fully interchangeable.)</DIV>
 

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hmmmm

easter ey.... can i get that many clams in that time??

i want one!!!! i dont know if i will have the dosh though... :(
 
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thats a bit rich for me i might just buy a cheap 1/18th put some tap on the back tyres and drift round the house lol
 

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Just noticed the amount of rear wheel toe in on the Yokomo MR4-TC SD CGM. Is that normal for a touring car?
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Morphy said:
Just noticed the amount of rear wheel toe in on the Yokomo MR4-TC SD CGM. Is that normal for a touring car?

Don't know what the CGM has, but its not uncommon to run 2-4 degs (SNOW PLOUGH!!) on our track. Its a long large track and it gives good straightline stabillity at speed.
 

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don't know why, but toe in on the rear wheels never occured to me....
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Zero rear toe isn't very stable at high speeds; we use 2deg on most TCs including even the FWD Mini M03s. But there's no adjustment option when dealing with a liveaxle car, like the 'pan' 2WD F103 F1s.





We were also wondering what toe should be on a RC driftcar too. Running 2deg and seems to be ok, might try something different too just to see if it improves control. Camber is about 1deg in and the PVC is looking a bit cone-shaped; might zero that next time.
 

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have you tried negitave camber on the rear? It should, unless i'm mistaken make drifting very easy....


If you try it, let me know!





Morphy
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Sorry,but doubt it... our problem now is getting a more grip at the rear to stop it donutting all the time - it will already spin 360s on its own axis!!



Toe-out rear can only make it worse; I might try some huge toe-in instead.


We tried putting half tape on the rears... too much grip = no steering. So we taped the fronts too... slightly better, but within 5 mins there's no tape left. Too much maintenance so we stopped going down that route.


For the best smooth control you gotta keep the wheels spinning constantly; I used a 540 motor (lots of torque) geared low. We used an EvoIII so that's a nicely balanced chassis (50:50), we ran dual diffs.


Next might try using spools (no diffs at all), someone suggested a bit more grunt say 23t motor. Or might chop some grooves into the PVC to see if that makes any difference, maybe try skinnier rings - we used full-width 26mm.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Morphy said:
have you tried negitave camber on the rear? It should, unless i'm mistaken make drifting very easy....

ya, we were running about 1deg *in* at the top; that's why the PVC is going cone-shaped.
The inside edge is wearing smaller.





+ve or -ve... there's not enough consensus. Tamiya I think they call +ve if the wheels lean in at the top.
 

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zoomer said:
+ve or -ve... there's not enough consensus. Tamiya I think they call +ve if the wheels lean in at the top.

Tamiya are spot on (well with the 1:1 raceing scene anyways). Positive or normal camber is inwards at the top - so that the inside of the wheel wears first, but more importantly so that the corning forces act across the entiretyre surface.


Nuts and bolts: Most grip is attained when tyres are flat on road. When turning your outside wheels need most grip.When you corner hard, you get body roll. If you have a +ve camber of 1deg, and if you get 1deg ofbody roll from cornering, your outside wheels will be flat on the road - at maxium grip.





Now for drifting you need grip control from the front - say a little +ve camber, BUT you want the back to have little traction - say zero or slight -ve camber.


You will also need the Ackemans angle to be correct for the steering to have any effect while sliding. Is this an editable parameter?


The trick is to get front wheels that slide just a little so that you can drift yet steer as well???? That sounds tricky to me!


2c


Morphy






PS if any of this needs more explanation, let me know and i'll try. I designed the steering and suspension for a lesser formula racecar and am more than happy to help.Edited by: Morphy
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Haha...I know a bit about supension settings too, spent too many hours lying under cars just admiring their mechanisms..






Ya, lean-in-at-topcamber
is good for cornering when car rolls... but thing we forgot is that the drift car got no grip so the chassis doesn't even rollover (zero lateral G-force??). I think best is zero camber at rear, so tyres wear flat.


Might remove the (softest) sway bars... but doubt they do much.


Other thing with 1:1 drifting is, they mainly use overpowered RWD cars so the front wheels only steer (& brake) - they have funny camber angles for their front wheels. But in RC we're playing with 4WD so its really a 4-wheel-drift rally style. Haven't seen any 1:1 Jap show-drifting with 4WD cars.


Oooh, we got no 'handbrake' too to initiate a rear slide.



I had it geared high at first (lessen the torque) but its harder to drive. Dropped 10 teeth off the pinion... More torque keeps the wheels spinning constantly, gets more control that way.
 

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zoomer said:
Ya, lean-in-at-topcamber
is good for cornering when car rolls... but thing we forgot is that the drift car got no grip so the chassis doesn't even rollover (zero lateral G-force??). I think best is zero camber at rear, so tyres wear flat.

I agree



zoomer said:
Other thing with 1:1 drifting is, they mainly use overpowered RWD cars so the front wheels only steer (& brake) - they have funny camber angles for their front wheels. But in RC we're playing with 4WD so its really a 4-wheel-drift rally style. Haven't seen any 1:1 Jap show-drifting with 4WD cars.

Correct, although i have seen a few GTR Skylines. I think you should definatley make you car 2wd and use more speed to slide (thought you would have already done this).


zoomer said:
Oooh, we got no 'handbrake' too to initiate a rear slide.

Close but they use the handbrake more to limit the slide. If you pull the handbrake ina slide it will bring you back straight, then flip you out the other way. Again when your car is in 2wd you should be able to duplicate this, and with just an occasional tap of brakes and controlled application power (maybe set an exp onyour rx to make it easer if you have the ability)you should be able to control drifting like a pro!
...
well you might need some (lots) of practice!


Anyway Im sure this has given you some ideas, and hopefully lots of fun!


Morphy
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Morphy said:
Correct, although i have seen a few GTR Skylines. I think you should definatley make you car 2wd and use more speed to slide (thought you would have already done this).

GTR or GTS? Could be RWD wannabees...
also the GTR is a viscous 4WD, it should handle like a 2WD in most situations. Don't know how to turn off the computer on a R34 GTR V-spec too, otherwise its yaw sensor would be working overtime...



Nah, not gunna bother downgrading an EvoIII. Lord Surikarn would consider that a major insult.



2WDs love doing donuts, no skill in that.


4WD drifts look better anyway, as the front also travels.


Again when your car is in 2wd you should be able to duplicate this, and with just an occasional tap of brakes and controlled application power (maybe set an exp onyour rx to make it easer if you have the ability)you should be able to control drifting like a pro!
...
well you might need some (lots) of practice!

oh yeah, that's the other drama with RC -We're putting PVC tyres on with zilch grip. Fullsize does it with normal tyres with full grip, so when they stop or brake you still get full grip back. With the RC, you can hit brakes and nothing happens... like driving on ice haha.


Oh ya brakes... we can't adjust front/rear brake bias, like the 1:1s. And electric motors brake by shorting the backEMF, so the slower the motor goes the less there is. And the speed of the tyres spinning aren't much relation to the groundspeed (no grip).


Ahh... we were passing the TX around the guys on Monday, all of them are pretty crazy racers - car control is good. All were complaining its too slow & boring...
but still good fun. Everybody had a hoot.
 
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