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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Well, I have done the research, and I am biting the bullet. Tonight I will be ordering the Team Orion Wasp 26 for the Savage.


I thought I would post some of the relevant info I have managed to track down during the process....

  1. <LI>The Wasp 26 and Ofna Picco 26 are the same engine. They are both manufactured by Picco in Italy and are the Picco P3 Monster 26.</LI>
    <LI>The Rotostart from the S-25 will bolt straight on, however you need a 12mm hex hub (or similar adapter) to make it work.</LI>
    <LI>Although it is only .01ci larger, and .2hp more powerful than the S-25, the Picco build, and the 7 port sleeve, make an incredible difference to overall power and performance. Better torque and much higher revs.</LI>


I will do a full review once it arrives and is installed.








Technical details:

HP: 2,7
RPM: 37’000
Carburator: Slide 8mm
Crankshaft: SG type
Piston/Sleeve: ABC
Crankcase size: 21
Engine bore size: 26
Exhaust: Rear
Displacement: 0,26 ci / 4,27 cc
Cranckshaft size: 14 mm
Plug: Standard



Regards,


AUSRC
 

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AusRC,

You will love this engine!!

I have had about 6 litres through my OFNA Picco 26 now and it is extremely strong!! It runs much cooler than the S-25 as well, which is a comforting feeling.

I used to make good power withh the S-25 at around 285f where as the Picco is making good power at about 230f.

It is fairly easy to tune and should not give you any major headaches.

Just remember to seal the carb neck and backplate withh some O2 safe silicon, and also remove the LSN, HSN and Idle Screw from the carb to clean up the rubber O-rings and then reasemble withh a small amount of grease (i used associated green slime) on the threads to ensuree a good seal.

One thing I have noticed is that when not used for a week or so, you do start to get crud build up on the crankshaft counter balance, so make sure you have plenty of After Run Oil in it for storage of anything more than a week.

Can't wait till you get it!! We need more Picco powered Savage's in Oz!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Shaun,


I have heard about the O-Ring shavings. Did you find many in yours? I have also read in a few places that you should actually pull the whole thing down and look for metal machinings/shavings in both the Combustion chamber and crank case. Thoughts?


Thanks,


AUSRC
 

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My O-Rings where not to bad, but they did definately have rubber shavings peeling off them and once reinstalled withh grease, felt much smoother to control.

As for shavings in the engine.....well I took the backplate off mine to seal it up when it was new and the inside was spotless. The only other thing you may decide to do is remove the cooling head and look in the sleeve from the top. I would expect it to be OK though, as I am sure Picco would have reasonable quality control?


Cheers.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
IT'S HERE........



Now - be patient AUSRC - make sure you do things right.........


I will be stripping the carb down tonight, looking for the rubber shavings, etc.


I will also hopefully get the heat sink and backplate off to do an internal inspection. As long as it is ready to start breaking in on Saturday - I will be very happy.


LONG weekend too.... yeah baby.


Regards,


(A Happy) AUSRC
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Hey Shaun,


I forgot to ask, the documentation withh the wasp is - poor - to say the least. What HSN, LSN settings did you use for break in? The docos I do have say "It is set for break in", but I would obviously like to confirm that fact.


Besides which, I am about to pull all of the needles out anyway, so it will need reseting.


Thanks,


AUSRC
 

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Hey there Ausrc,

Yeah, don't pay to much attention to the manual for the break in needle settings, they are not very good.

The manual suggests 11.5 turns out for the LSN and 3 turns out for the HSN. I can tell you right now that the LSN will be WAY to rich at this setting and the HSN should be about OK.

Try having your LSN about 8 turns out and your HSN about 3 turns out and start your break in from there. Just keep an eye on the temps and that will be a good indication of how your needles are set.

If you are having heaps of trouble keeping it running, just try leaning the LSN out 1/2 a turn and the HSN 1/4 of a turn.

Hope that helps.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Shaun,


You are a legend.


Mate at 11 turns out, the LSN is sticking outa mile. I will creep it back to 8.


OK, I have pulled the carb down and just like everyone else cleaned out a fair wack of rubber. I have greased the O-Rings and threads and have it back together - now withh HIRISK's needle settings - thanks again.


I pulled the back plate off and have check the seal and locktited the threads.... I am also going to live dangerously (mainly cause I am lazy) and the ROTOSTART has been installed...... I have a pretty good idea when or if it hydrolocks, so I am not too worried. $4 worth of TC3 12mm Hex Hubs adapted the ROTO no probs - and have 3 to spare.


Motor saver is on, head bolts have been checked, flywheel and clutchare installed. Tomorrow at a more respectable hour, I will pull the dremel out and shave the engine mount a smidge cause it doesn't quite fit. Will be ready for breakin Saturday withh a day to spare.


Regards,


AUSRC
 

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Sounds like all is going well.

Another small tip that may save you some dollars down the track. A lot of people say the Rotostart is unreliable and breaks etc. So I pulled mine down to have a good look at what could be the cause of it all.

I found that the engine inside the rotostart has a small amount of forward/backward freeplay and that this, over time, cxould cause exess stress on the gear that is attached to its output.

Using some carboard or balsa wood, chock it up and remove any freeplay from this and you should avoid stripping any of the Roto gears.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
The next instalment....


TANK 1


Well guys, here is the Savage, up on blocks cooling down after the first 1/2 tank. All I can say is - this Wasp .26 is sweet.














As you can see, it is running super rich and leaving a nice little puddle of oil behind.


So - why do I think it is sweet... The S-25 was a prick to start when it was this rich. The Wasp, set the needles, covered the stinger, 2 zaps of the roto to prime the fuel line, glow warmer on, 1 zap of the roto as it was away... THAT'S WHAT I'M TALKING ABOUT!!!!


I ran the first tank in 2 passes, let it cool down in between, but the thing never went above 180F, considering Brissie is fairly hot today, that is remarkable.


Give you another update later in the day.


Regards,


AUSRC
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
2nd TANK


Once again, started beautifully. 2nd tank at idle has gone through. Most of the tank went at 160F, reached 180F a couple of times.


Out for a couple of hours, then off to the park to do some "on the ground" break in. Hopefully get another 2 or 3 tanks through it this afternoon. Then a couple tomorrow morning will see me starting to tune late tomorrow afternoon. I CAN'T WAIT. Need to get some more fuel........


Regards,


AUSRC
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
8th TANK!


I have only 2 words regarding the .26 Wasp/Picco - GET ONE!


OMG - What a beast. I have just started to put some tune on this engine and I have already flipped it twice - doh! I cannot believe the difference. And not once above 230F. Tanks 3-5 not above 200F, 6 & 7 around 215F and as I said - tank 8 not above 230F.


It is already hellishly fast, and the torque is unbelievable.


More to come.......


Regards,


AUSRC
 

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Yes its a crazy little motor, the first time i gave mine the beans i flipped it scratching the head
.


Ive heard of some guy getting theirs to lift the front wheels on a gear change!!! Only problem of this motor is it likes eating spur gears and twisting dogbones.


On a good day mine flips on command running 10% im told i should run at least 20% cos i have to lean the 10% too much to get good power??


Which LSN are you using? im running the silver one but ive heard the black one is better? Ive had no real headaches with my silver LSN.





Cheers.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Weaponx,


I am using the silver LSN, and am having no probs. I have it dialed in at the moment and it is SWEET!


I read how everyone reckons it is hard to keep tuned, but mine is just fantastic.


Regards,


AUSRC
 

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Thats right AUSRC mine idles well and lifts the front no worries at all. i love it. it also sound WICKED.
 

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found this on the needle settings , find different info everywhere , this from ofna site



<TABLE cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=0 width="90%">
<T>
<TR>
<TD>PICCO ENGINES - 12, 21, 26</TD></TR>
<TR>
<TD>
<TABLE width="99%" align=left>
<T>
<TR>
<TD width=250>
<DIV align=center></DIV></TD>
<TD width=250>
<DIV align=center></DIV></TD>
<TD>A) High Speed Needle

B) Low Speed Needle

C) Idle Screw</TD></TR></T></TABLE></TD></TR>
<TR>
<TD>
<UL>
<LI>Open the carburetor slide by hand and hold it in the open position. Turn the LSN all the way in, be careful not to 'bottom out' the screw with any force. You can damage the needle by bottoming it out. Then turn the LSN 8 turns out from the bottom.
<LI>Do NOT adjust the Mid-Range Needle. Call tech support if you made adjustments to this screw.
<LI>Then turn the HSN (High Speed Needle) to flush. </LI>[/list]</TD></TR></T></TABLE>
 
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