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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Here's what i'm using and it seems to work quite well.


The throttle slides when breaking and vise vera for the breaks when under power. Also seen here is my charge jack that when the plug is in isolates the rest of the electrics regardless of the switch.


 

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OK mate... now you'll have to give us more info about this charging jack... how it works and what parts you used.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Ok this is the 3.5mm mono socket that I used:





Its a3.5mm Mono PANEL INSULATED Socket from jaycar and cost $1.70


It has four legs, two for each wire of the battery. I installed this inline so that the battery wires are soldered onto one side and the switch wires are on the other.


This socket is good because when you put in the 3.5mm plug to charge, it disconectsthe right two legs(connected to the swi)- isolating everything away from the battery/charger.


Pull out the charger and the connection to the swi is made again- your ready to race! Its effectively unplugs you batt EVERY time you charge it.


When racing Iplan touse a small rubber plug to stop sand/dust/water from getting in. (ATM I use racing tape, but hey!
)
 

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Morphy said:
Ok this is the 3.5mm mono socket that I used:





Its a3.5mm Mono PANEL INSULATED Socket from jaycar and cost $1.70


It has four legs, two for each wire of the battery. I installed this inline so that the battery wires are soldered onto one side and the switch wires are on the other.


This socket is good because when you put in the 3.5mm plug to charge, it disconectsthe right two legs(connected to the swi)- isolating everything away from the battery/charger.


Pull out the charger and the connection to the swi is made again- your ready to race! Its effectively unplugs you batt EVERY time you charge it.


When racing Iplan touse a small rubber plug to stop sand/dust/water from getting in. (ATM I use racing tape, but hey!
)

Cool! Thanks for the info bro. I'm not sure I'm ever going to need it but it sure looks better than the standard switch mod which then finishes up putting power back into the circuit.


Good job.
 

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where did you get your hump packs from skidd and morphy and how much with chargers and what output?
Iam sickofspending $25 dollars every weekend on batteries
Edited by: Savage SS
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Mine is just a 900mha (i think) square pack with Hitec plug from the lhs. Cost me like $18 and pluggs into the charger for my handset (has two outputs) which i think was another ~$20


The batt is like 4AA batteries arrange to that its square on the end...
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Sorry dude, for $1.70 you can't beat it. Its neat as and I know i'm not going to open the box for a charge ever again! Took 30 sec to drill a hole, another 30sec to solder...


Looked at putting everything through the 3rd sevo slot but decided to keep that avalible for future and that where I put the socket is more protected from dirt and water...


Will the 1100mha bat make the servos work 'better' or just for longer?
 

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If you can do it for $2.... bargain
. I had a switch harness left over from an old order so it effectivly cost me nothing
 

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Savage SS said:
where did you get your hump packs from skidd and morphy and how much with chargers and what output?
Iam sickofspending $25 dollars every weekend on batteries

Yeah mine was the same as Husky's... an 1100 amh from Hobbyman in Dandenong. Instead of the switch mod I just soldered an extra male BEC plug onto the battery and it just hangs out of the radio box near the on/off switch.


Works fine for me but I can see that it could be improved... but I'll save that for later.
Edited by: Skidd
 

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4 NIMH aa's wont give you the 6V you need to get the full potential out of your servos. You need 5 cells @ 1.2V to get 6V.4 cells is only 4.8V which is the bare minimum requirement.
 

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yep. as husky said



Alkalines: 1.5 volts AA

NiMh = 1.2 volts AA



i actually use a 1200mah 5 cell hump pack in my car, and it lasts
around a week of use.. i use it everyday! .... the remote on the other
hand.. i have rechargable AA's (NiMH)..



NiMh 2000mah.. but since its only 8 cells. it only gives me 9.6 volts
instead of 12... but i cant seem to find any loss of power /
reception.. and they last me around 4 runs.. (i assume if i mod in an
extra 2 batteries to supply me with 12 volts.. then ill get longer
battery life).. ill do that one day!





i think coz i have less batteries the remote calls it "LOW battery" by
flashing.. but when i check the batteries.. they are still pretty much
full on a battery tester!. .



this proves that i need more batteries moded in..
 
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