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Boat Anchor!
hahaha...





hived from another thread:



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<TD class=bold width="20%" bgColor=#fafbfc><A name=5085></A>jiggen5354</TD>
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<TD class=smText width="80%">Posted: 03May2004 at 12:12pm | IP Logged </TD>
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50 lemons



Group: R/C Apprentice
Joined: 16January2004
Location: Australia
Posts: 197 </TD>
<TD class=text vAlign=top width="80%" background="" bgColor=#fafbfc>RMS have venom motors for cheap. about 29 bux in 15, 17, 19 and 21 double winds</TD></TR></T></TABLE>
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<TD class=bold width="20%" bgColor=#f1f1f1><A name=5086></A>zoomer</TD>
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<TD class=smText width="80%">Posted: 03May2004 at 12:28pm | IP Logged </TD>
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R/C Guru



Group: R/C Guru
Joined: 28January2004
Posts: 626 </TD>
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Those Venom donks look like they have the right goods especially for that $$... but just from naked eye I think they don't bother cutting the comms after it is manufactured?? The comm copper plates looks as though they've come straight out of the baking/epoxy machine.


A comm cut could be the best investment on one of these motors, even before you try running them.





Talking of which... where's MIGORENG lately? He had the 15t Venom, been very quiet last few weeks.
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<TD class=bold width="20%" bgColor=#f1f1f1><A name=5096></A>zoomer</TD>
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<TD class=smText width="80%">Posted: 03May2004 at 1:10pm | IP Logged </TD>
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R/C Guru



Group: R/C Guru
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just responses to your query on your $70 motor, nismo.



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<TD class=bold>jiggen5354 wrote:

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<TD class=text>RMS have venom motors for cheap. about 29 bux in 15, 17, 19 and 21 double winds</TD></TR></T></TABLE></TD></TR></T></TABLE></TD></TR></T></TABLE>


yep, found it $28.50 @ Hobbyco too... where MiGoreng got it at.


http://www.hobbyco.com.au/product/show_item.php?plu=VEN1312


(I thought they were $39 or $45 last xmas? is something wrong with them??
)


There's a review on them in current month's Racing Lines mag.


If I can find it locally here for < $30, might be tempted to get one just to see how good a silk from sow's ear I can make out of it.



As for using it right out of the box... suspect you'll get the same probs as MiG.
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So who's got one of these 'budget' motors??
 
G

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i dont intend on getting one after whats happened to Mig's motor...chewed a set of brushs in a matter of days..



Nismo
 

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aside from a com cut, maybe reduce timing on them. i don't think there is much more to be done to them.i was looking at the 19 turn and a cheap hack motor
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
nismospeed said:
i dont intend on getting one after whats happened to Mig's motor...chewed a set of brushs in a matter of days..

The comm's finish looks very dull & rough (= abrasive).


It might not even be perfectly round - might not have been trued at the factory, so when it turns your brushes bounch (= arcing, createsheat).





But if you solve the 2 probs... the basics is sound. Ballbearings, adjustable timing, manufacturing quality looks ok. Just needs a bit of work.


Otherwise you'd be paying more than $30 for a new armature elsewhere whereas here you get a free can + brushes + springs + endbell to go with it.


Methink even if you had to spend $20 to get it comm cut & new brushes & springs it'll still be a decent buy.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
D'oh, they're still $45 at the local hangout.


I'll wait!







<TABLE cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=0 width="90%" border=0 x
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<TD height=17>BOL</TD>
<TD class=xl25>VEN-1312</TD>
<TD>VENOM 1312 FIREBALL 15T DOUBLE MOTOR</TD>
<TD class=xl24 x:num="45">$ 45.00 </TD></TR>
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<TD height=17>BOL</TD>
<TD class=xl25>VEN-1313</TD>
<TD>VENOM 1313 FIREBALL 17T DOUBLE MOTOR</TD>
<TD class=xl24 x:num="45">$ 45.00 </TD></TR>
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<TD height=17>BOL</TD>
<TD class=xl25>VEN-1314</TD>
<TD>VENOM 1314 FIREBALL 19T DOUBLE MOTOR</TD>
<TD class=xl24 x:num="45">$ 45.00 </TD></TR>
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<TD height=17>BOL</TD>
<TD class=xl25>VEN-1315</TD>
<TD>VENOM 1315 FIREBALL 21T DOUBLE MOTOR</TD>
<TD class=xl24 x:num="45">$ 45.00 </TD></TR></T></TABLE>


C'mon Melbourne, get with it! Even PERTH is beating us... hehehe.
 
G

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got a nice 14t motor down here for $60..not a venom but a different brand..ill look into it.

think ill stay away from venom though...my mega motor is going well



Nismo
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
When they're $30 each retail... they start getting attractive!






Gee whiz, if they're sold for that retail -just imagine how much they'd cost wholesale... $20? And cost at the factory door... $10? Or less??
 

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these motors can't be any worse than a team orion orbital 2 pro bb. I had one as a 14 double and It could smoke a set of brushes and the com in as little as 2 battery packs. Since then I run sport tuned motors, 27 stockers and the 23t RR motor from tamiya.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
ya I don't know what is it with Orion motors. I ain't having much luck with a Chrome stocker too... it doesn't go all that well, needed a lot of work to get it there and needs a lot of regular work to keep it going.


Stockers I'm sticking to Trinitys for now, P2K & Monster working well and they can go for 20-30+ solid runs without getting touched (I'm lazy). Not a huge fan of Trinity/Epic the *company* (imho they spend more on Marketing than R&D) but every now and again they do bring out a decent product.



(Not scared to give credit where credit's due!)
 
G

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might aswell turn this topic into all about motors topic




ok then



whats a good 27t rebuildable stock motor??

whats a good motor motor around the 15t area??

and whats the difference between a machubia (spelling??) and a johnson silver can motor??



Nismo
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
nismospeed said:
whats a good 27t rebuildable stock motor??

Trinity seems to have the best range... P2k, P2k2, Monster. Plus there's all the extra motor builders like Fantom etc that use their motor as their base.


whats a good motor motor around the 15t area??

Hard to say, that's not a very common race motor these days, so further development on them is non-existant. eg Ozzy used to race 16-triples and so we specialised in them... but no one else around the world did.


A 23-turn "JRCM" stocker would probably perform as well as an average 15-turn these days.


and whats the difference between a machubia (spelling??) and a johnson silver can motor??

Mabuchi VS Johnson?


Absolutely nothing if you ask the manufacturers (Mabuchi = Japan, Johnson = China).


No difference either if you read their industrial specifications sheets.


But the racers think the Johnson has a little more torque, the Mabooch has a little more revs... but all swear none of today's 540s are as good as the ones made 5 yrs ago, go figure.
 
G

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ok then thanks.

cause as far as i know, down hobart you have to race stock silver cans,
in targa class or TL01 class ithink it is(correct me if i wrong nige)

and then after a few meets you can enter other classes..

plan on racing in the TL01 class, thats if nothen else blows up!!




A 23-turn "JRCM" stocker would probably perform as well as an average 15-turn these days.
hmmm really??...must show the 15t isnt very powerfull...

so your saying a 23t JRCM motor will keep up with a 15t motor??



</font>Nismo
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Motors & tuning is a big black art... impossible to say what's what and what it'll do until you put it into a car and know how to optimise it. Many racing motors are now built in both "rpm" and "torque" versions too.


Japan races 23t as their "stock", so there's where their development is.


With 3300s Mod drivers can afford to use 7,8,9,10 turn motors... so that's what is worked on by the motor pros too.


In UK there's a 12t limit on mod... so there's some specialised "Euro" spec motors for that.


In US & here we run 27t stock, so there's where the research is. Even these stockers can make crazy power for a 27t, so don't write them off as gutless. Only trouble is, with 3300 cells there is no chance of 27t dumping and not making time - so motor tuners can make stocks that run less efficiently but go faster. Only catch here with inefficiency is that these motors run hot.


As for 540 racing... that's a black art in itself!
 
G

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ahh ok then yeap.

think i got it...

so aussy ppl specialize in 27t stock motors....



might have to get a few motors,



Nismo
 

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Nismo I think that you will find the details on the classes on the stmcc website.


I just fitted a silver motor to my car though I am yet to run it. I dont know if its a Johnson or a Mabuchi, but i think it was OEM supplied with a TL01.


On 540's there is a 1 page article on getting more from 540s and breaking them in. It suggested running the new motor in a glass of water for a few minutes.


Is this safe? Wouldnt you electrocute your self?


It also alluded to other tweaks people use to get more from the 540, anyone know what that may be??
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
azenis said:
I just fitted a silver motor to my car though I am yet to run it. I dont know if its a Johnson or a Mabuchi, but i think it was OEM supplied with a TL01.

Johnsons have a little curly "J" logo stamped on the can and also the endbell.


Mabooches have a round sticker on the can. But you seldom see these in the export Tamiyas, mainly only on the ones sold locally in Japan. Don't know why.


On 540's there is a 1 page article on getting more from 540s and breaking them in. It suggested running the new motor in a glass of water for a few minutes.Is this safe? Wouldnt you electrocute your self?

For this... ya just gotta read http://dansdata.com/gz013.htmits a hoot.



Short answer: No, never, impossible.


It also alluded to other tweaks people use to get more from the 540, anyone know what that may be??

It all depends on how tough your competition is... racing 540s that is.


For really serious gits without a life...



1) buy a dozen or a gross of fresh new motors, run them all through a dyno and find the ones that give out the most power & rpm. Given manufacturing tolerances, there'll be ones eg that run 500rpm faster than others.


2) run in the good ones properly, eg with water dipping and/or driving with a slave motor or Dremel. You want the brushes to bed in so the entire brush is contacting the comm. Your problem... the brushes are rock hard.


3) polish the bushings... hmmm!


4) go buy some superduper highest volt batteries, for every extra millivolt counts when playing the 540 game


4a) ditto racing ESC with the lowest possible resistance


5) build your car with minimum rolling resistance in the drivetrain, minimum weight, minimum drag within the rules.


6) for the last 10-20secs just before the start buzzer, jumpstart your batteries by charging them at 10A or something equally stupid. Who cares if your batteries don't survive, you want max volts outta them man!!



Then pray that you can drive...
 
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