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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
OK im first to admit that im new to all of this RC stuff, mainly because its far from my chosen profession.



My questions are probably really simple but I havent been able to find
quick answers (havent contacted my local hobby shop just yet).



I have just finished building the car, put in the first tank of gas and
managed to get it to start (my persistence kept me going til 8:30 at night).



I was going through the process outlined in the back of the manual
(with the valve 2 turns out etc) and the car was running but running so
rich it was leaving little puddles on the ground. The other thing that
concerned me was that the car didn't move (at all). The engine rev's,
when I push the throttle, the brakes work, the steering works (and is calibrated)
but when I put it at half throttle the car doesn't move.



I have only run through 1 tank of gas, and havent wound the valves on
the engine any more (it was getting late and neighbours let me know).
My guess is that there isnt enough centrifugal force to engage the
clutch and move the wheels... but if I lean out the engine a bit more
it will pick up speed and finally engage? does this sound right?



Any help would be great.. im going to continue the running in process
tomorrow, any tips people can give would be excellent, I appreciate all
help, no matter how obvious.


Edited by: bzchi
 

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Premium Member
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6,579 Posts
Yup, sounds about right - don't get too worried about anything until you get to rev it fully. (Then if the wheels still don't turn, start getting worried.)


New transmission gears etc are probably a bit tight = extra friction in the whole drivetrain. The clutchbell probably has some oil & glazing on it, that'll soon wear off after you do a few runs.





However more importantly... have you got BEARINGS in that thing??


Methink ALL nitro cars must have full ballbearings - buy them pronto if you haven't. Gas cars do go fast enough that metal bushings can heat up the axles, and plastic bushings just melt.


Luckily the TG10 doesn't need many, only a dozen or so and won't cost too much.
 
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks zoomer...



I have the standard bearings in it at the moment, had no idea they made
such a difference. Ive seen genuine tamiya ball bearing sets on ebay is
that what im after?



Wish I had of known _before_ I put the damn thing together lol




I might chase up a set after I get this car going, thanks for the
info.. I will let you know how I get on with the car moving etc.
 

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Premium Member
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6,579 Posts
Just a friendly tip... it ain't ever "genuine Tamiya" bearings unless its blue sealed and says TAMIYA SUPERSEALED on the sides & they come on Tamiya HopUp Options packaging.



The blue seals are fantastic bearings but you do pay a premium; probably not worth chasing them - Oz distributor don't seem to bring them in anymore.


Bearings are bearings, and any ball bearing that fits will work fine. Save your $$ for elsewhere.








Tip #2:- any metal screw that goes into a metal part MUST be locktite'd, otherwise a nitro car will shake them loose very quickly.


Might as well get the bearings and install them, plus loctite everything before you get seriously into the driving part.
 
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I got it all running!



Leaned it back a quarter of a rotation (im sure thats only relevant to
this specific model) and got it to move slightly, did a tank of gas
like that then another quarter etc.. and now its running very sweet.



Have it running fairly smooth but when I put the brake on the engine
cuts out (need to have a closer look). I think its just a brake setting
that I need to adjust.



Thanks for the help! The bearings are on the shopping list :)



Ive also got my first muffler burns.. that must be some form of initiation.. im sure you all already have them
 

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6,579 Posts
bzchi said:
I got it all running!

Leaned it back a quarter of a rotation (im sure thats only relevant to this specific model) and got it to move slightly, did a tank of gas like that then another quarter etc.. and now its running very sweet.

You might be a bit hamfisted with the tuning - best not to turn more than 1/8th at a time.

Have it running fairly smooth but when I put the brake on the engine cuts out (need to have a closer look). I think its just a brake setting that I need to adjust.

Check the idle speed screw (minimum carb opening) too... your engine should never be set lower than its stall speed, whether brakes are on or not.

Ive also got my first muffler burns.. that must be some form of initiation..

Nah, that's only Stage 1.


Stage 2 is when you get a faceful of exhaust gas and chokes you enough to make you drop car, TX, fuelbottle and whatever else you're carrying.
 
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Ahh this piece of paper that was thrown in the box mentioned 1/4
turns.. I have run a few tanks of gas through it now but I will only do
1/8th's in future




As for gas fumes, ive only had them in my eyes so I couldnt see.. that
was interesting.. got to love flushing fuel fumes out of your eyes
while the car sits the idle.



The instructions mentioned unscrewing 2 1/4 turns then turning in until
the engine was leaned out (after the initial tanks of gas). My
questions is fairly straight forward.. how do I know when its running
optimum? Ive been told about the spit sizzle test where you spit on the
top of the motor, if it bubbles you're good, if it sizzles you are too
lean.. is this really a good test of optimum fuel mixture?




Thanks guys!
 
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I love my Tg10 man and I had alot of problems when I started as well.


An easy way to see if it is running to hot or not is to spit on the glow plug after it has been running. If it doesn't sizzle, then lean it out. If it quickly evaporates, then richen it up. If it sits there and sizzles... thats good. This is not gospel by no means, just another helpful hint.


I am still using the standard bearings that came with my car a year ago. They still work fine. I would use the money on something else like a 2-speed.
 
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
OK, the tg10 adventures continue!. I thought I would post in here so if
other fresh starters have problems they can see what I have gone
through!



I now have a first degree burn on 3 seperate fingers, 2 from the tuned
pipe and the most sevre one from the glow plug igniter (I look like a
dog
bite victim) and I have finally got the tuned pipe fitted. I did have
problems fitting the tuned pipe, and although I thought it was fitted
correctly, I went back and looked at it and the pipe rubbed the front
wheels at full lock. I took it back to the model shop and they changed
the manifold (to a tamiya one.. good thinking I say) and it now 'kinda'
fits. not 100% happy with it as it has to tilt up still to clear the
front wheel (custom bracket). The other thing that annoys me is the
manifold is silver (and covered it dots of oil now) and the muffler
cannister is black, im going to paint the manifold with some caliper
paint from a car (because its high-temp) does that sound like an OK
idea or am I playing with fire?



Now since adding this tuned pipe im getting more problems, when the
petrol tank gets to about half full the car starts to splutter and
eventually stalls and cannot be restarted. As soon as I fill the tank
up to full I can get it going.



One thing I have noticed that I am very suss of is that when I prime
the engine for the pull start the fuel seems to go all the way up to
the inlet then when I take my finger off the priming button the fuel
works its way back down the pipe to the fuel tank (about 25mm it goes
back down).. there also seems to be a 'weezing' noise coming from the
hose right after I pump it. I remember when I first built the car I
pressed it twice and it reached the motor and stayed there, then
another 2 presses would adequately prime the motor to start it.. im
thinking this is tied in to my stalling problem. (if people agree I
will head out and get more fuel hose).



On top of all of this (I am actually very careful I am just learning
the herd $$$$ way about all the small problems) I have managed to lose
2 tech screws from the bottom of the motor. One fell clean out and the
other bent 90 degrees (but didnt strip the thread) and is now rendered
useless, I have ordered 4 more screws but there is a 1 week wait
.
Im told there is some kind of sylicone glue stuff I can put on screws
just to hold them in? To an onlooker my car must look like I built it
with a blindfold on.



While I went in to order the screws they upsold me and I walked out
with a 'fail safe' cobra thing that puts the brake on if it loses
battery or radio signal, sounded like common sense to me, does anyone
else run one of these? I might get the brake working before I fit it
hahaha
I managed to lose a grub screw out of the brake assembly too, lucky they had spares in stock for that.



Im not sure what people will think of this post, probably 'I did that
like 10 years ago' but I thought I would post it anyway, I don't
generally attract this level of misfortune.. so I thought I would
document exactly what it does take to keep one of these things on the
road ;)



After all of this I still love my tg10! and even though I never get a
chance to play with it (get home too late from work to fire it up) I
enjoy trying to keep it running for the weekend!



Thanks in advance for any help, feedback or advice!



-Sam


Edited by: bzchi
 
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I use a failsafe on my V1RR evo. They are great especially those which come on line when the power goes down. If you have never experienced a 'runaway', then you will not appreciate it as much. I have seen $600 engines pop due to not running a failsafe.


All the problems you have had, I have experienced as well. Except for the 1/2 full tank. Check the o-ring on your fuel tank lid and check the hoses.


Loctite is a great idea for screws you want to keep in. I lost screws from the two speed, engine mounts and all kinds of places. Now they are all loctited. Just be careful on which one you use it on.
 
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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I am still using the standard bearings that came with my car a year
ago. They still work fine. I would use the money on something else
like a 2-speed.


NO NO NO!!

bearings is a must, as zoomer said it dont take long to melt the
plastic bushings..when the melt, they led to wobble problems, which
cause allsorts of wierd stuff



a 2speed nice yes..wait till you learn how to drive it first..



Im told there is some kind of sylicone glue stuff I can put on screws
just to hold them in? To an onlooker my car must look like I built it
with a blindfold on.
tamiya blue loctite works great...

i use it on a heap of stuff...

help for metal to plastic as well, when the hole is stripped



One thing I have noticed that I am very suss of is that when I prime
the engine for the pull start the fuel seems to go all the way up to
the inlet then when I take my finger off the priming button the fuel
works its way back down the pipe to the fuel tank (about 25mm it goes
back down).. there also seems to be a 'weezing' noise coming from the
hose right after I pump it. I remember when I first built the car I
pressed it twice and it reached the motor and stayed there, then
another 2 presses would adequately prime the motor to start it.. im
thinking this is tied in to my stalling problem. (if people agree I
will head out and get more fuel hose).


i heard its best to get rid of that primer thingy on the tank, and
instead, put your finger on the exaust, and pull the pullstart, youll
see the fuel going into the engine..



hope this helps..

i only had a nitro for a few months, but i learnt alot from it



Nismo
 
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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
A simple way to get rid of the primer, is to pull it out and plug the hole with a screw and a couple of o-rings. The best way to prime your car is the way nismo said. Finger over the exhaust and turn the motor over a few times.
 

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Hi All,


Just purchased secondhand a TG10 as a stablemate for my truck (Genesis).


Found quite a few parts missing and in the process of replacing. I'm wondering what hop ups are worthwhile as the spur gear needs replacing and I thought that it may make sense to upgrade to a 2speed which comes with the new gearing.


Q. are the new gears in this hop up metal?


Also missing a joint cup so is the hardened joint cups hop up good value?


The main thing that I would like to know is what are the weak points to the standard car and what options are available to rectify said problems?


Who is the best supplier of Tamiya parts in Sydney?





Thanks in advance
 
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