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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
How can I make the suspension firmer? I can increase the spring rate or decrease it with the different clips that go around the shock, can you use two (thick one and a thin one) at the same time to make the spring harder?


Is a tool available to measure camber and toe angles?


Or is it all line of sight?





How do I modify ride height?
 

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you can buy springs of different tension from really soft to really hard. they are color co-ordinated according to tension


RPM make tools that measure both camber toe and ride hieght. you could get a set up station if you have plenty of dollare or plan on racing


ridel hieght can be changed by preload on the springs ( the clips you mentioned). there are other ways as well like short springs, shock shafts or internal collars on the shock shaft and droop screws. best was is the preload on the springs
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Ahh so those clips dont firm up the springs they just adjust height... cool


i would have thought it would have effected spring rate as well? so the thinner ones will lower the car?


Are the springs expensive? I saw some in LHS today with purple metal shocks and they were about 90 bucks a pair :S had about 4 sets of springs though
 
G

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they dont do jack to ride height, i just checked on me TL01, has the
same shocks as yours, ive got spacers in the inside to make the shock
shorter, and those clips makes it either harder or softer, im running
the big spacers up front with soft springs, and big ones and medium
ones with silver spring at rear, very stiff(drifting setup)



Nismo
 

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No, az is totally correct. (If your shocks are already maxing out at the full travel of the shocks, HOW do you think they's manage to make your car any higher??!?)


The preload collars (IN THEORY) adjust how high your car sits.


When your car sits down on the ground, it should compress the suspension a little - that's the static ride height. (there's also Dynamic ride height, but nobody bothers measuring that - too hard)


When you lift the car up... the suspension should droop down. The amt of droop is the difference in static ride height to the highest point you can lift the car before the tyres leave the ground.


Crank the preload up and the car will sit higher & higher, until you run out of Droop.


If you want stiffer springing... use different springs. Tamiya sells 4-pair packs of springs (1pr each of Red, Yellow, Blue, White) for about $30 I think; there are cheaper ones out there eg Eagle but I'd just stick to the 1 brand. Each brand's hardness ratings are different to another, so its a total pain to mix & match.


TA04 kit 'gold' springs aren't part of the scale - they're very close to a Yellow spring. To go stiffer, use Blue. To go softer, use Red.


Shock oil viscosity is also another factor in your tuning. If you've used just the kit's shock oil, nobody knows what rating that is. Best to buy oil of a known rating; with 3-hole pistons 40wt all round or 60wt at the front suits the Tamiya CVAs well.





TA04 suspension arms also have a place for a long grubscrew... these are droop screws. They stop the arms from falling so much when the suspension is unloaded, and this finetuning is yet another minor factor.


The stock TA04/S plastic chassis can't make use of the screws though, but if you upgrade to the TA04R graphite tub or any of the TA04PRO FRP or graphite chassis plates, they've got 'ears' to engage below the droop screws.
 

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azenis said:
Is a tool available to measure camber and toe angles?

Put your car on a flat surface and grab a ruler & protractor. Maybe 2 protractors.


Mark 2 parallel lines the width of your front wheels ie 186mm are apart.


If your wheels point dead straight ahead, that's zero toe.


Now stand a protractor up vertically against the wheel. Zero camber is dead vertical.
 

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nismospeed said:
so what it the point of having those clips??

Preload clips set the preload.


Increase preloading and your ride height increases (and droop decreases) until your shocks can't get any longer (= run out of droop).


If you add any more preload after that point... yes it makes the whole shock "harder" but you do nothing to the spring's rating. The springs always stay the same 'ounce/inch', but your shocks won't start compressing until later.


The only way to change the springs' 'oz/in' is to put different springs.





Lots of preload, zero droop + TL01... sounds like the making of a donut machine.
 
G

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wtf are the clips for then???....why have them if they dont do
nothen, i use them to stiffen the shocks, they dont do jack all to
height



Nismo
 

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err ... it is Because You Are Running ZERO DROOP !!!






No real 1:1 car runs zero droop btw. When you jack up a 1:1 the suspension always drop down, sometimes by 6" or more.


If your 1:1 had zero droop, if you jack up any 1 corner you'd have THREE wheels off the ground.
 

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azenis said:
So if i fit the thinner clips, the car should lower a bit??

yep!


Suspension should be set as soft as possible for the circumstances, as soft suspension gives the most grip on rough surfaces.


It should always only be as hard as necessary to stop the car from bottoming out, 'cos when your chassis hits the road it takes force off the tyres = less grip.





With the TA04, just start with the manual's settings - its pretty spot on. The gold (=yellow)springs work for most situations; or at most try a pair of blues up front.


If the tail is unstable in straights at high speeds, try the toe-in rear blocks.


If you like 'lively' response, run 1-deg toeout at the front.


If that's not enough for you, try the "Racing Front Suspension" kit. It gives you new castor blocks with less castor, so your steering responds even quicker.
 
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