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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi Guys,</font>


This is something that I have put together to help
people out there that may not have had a huge amount of experience in
RC. I do not claim to be an expert, but I just wanted to share my
experiences with you all. I hope this can be of some benefit to some of
you.</font>


These
tips are not a must for everyone and as peoples skill level and
sometimes more importantly patience levels vary, just take on board
what ever you feel will benefit you most.</font>


1) MAKE IT REALLY READY TO RUN BEFORE YOU EVEN RUN IT</font></font>


The
first thing I did when I took my Savage25 out of it's box was strip it
almost completely down. This is obviously not necessary for the SS as
it comes out of the box already in bits. This is a good idea as you
really get to thoroughly check all the parts and correct anything that
has come from the factory as a fault.</font>


I bought a few things to add to the Savage right from the start just to make it run as well as I could. This included Hitech Servo's. I used the 645MG for steering and the 475HB for throttle/brake. I also installed a 6V 5 Cell Hump Pack
and added a different on/off switch so that I could run an external
charge lead which means that you don't have to remove the Hump Pack for
charging.</font>


Take this opportunity to loctite all metal to metal screws.</font>


Here is my Savage25 in pieces:
</font></font>






</font></font>



Here are some of the parts waiting to go on:


</font></font>



Once
I had the engine removed I took the Roto Start and back plate off and
sealed it with Oxygen Safe Silicon and also LOCTITED the 4 screws on
the back plate and also on the Roto Start when re-assembling the back
plate.</font>


I also removed the carb and Silicon sealed the neck and then loctited the nut on the pinch clamp.</font>


I used Tamyia Thread Lock (Blue) and Oxygen Safe Silicon for these tasks.</font>


Here is a shot of the engine removed from the Truck


</font></font>



While the Truck was in pieces, I took the opportunity to do the bleeding my shocks mod </font>http://www.savage-central.com/ftopic29.html</font> as the stock HPI oil is not silicon and does not work anywhere near as well as good quality silicon shock oil.</font></font>


I used Orion shock oil and went for 30wt front and 35wt rear. What weight you use is really is up to you and how you drive.</font>


I also fitted a set of shock socks at this point as they really do a great job in keeping the shafts dirt free.</font>


Here is a shot of the finished shocks


</font></font>



I then stripped down the diffs in preperation for the Bullet Proof your Diffs mod </font>http://www.savage-central.com/ftopic2200.html</font>. It is a good idea to do this while your Truck is in bits.</font></font>


Here are some shots of the diffs
</font></font>



</font></font>



</font></font>



</font></font>




</font></font>




After this I proceeded to do the Throttle Rod Setup </font>http://www.savage-central.com/ftopic2179.html</font> which is a great idea as it will give much improved brakes and better control of the throttle and brake adjustments.</font></font>


I used an OFNA Servo Horn and OFNA Linkages to complete this mod.</font>


Here is a few shots of the Throttle Mod

</font></font>



</font></font>




</font></font>




I then did the MP Servo Saver Setup </font>http://www.savage-central.com/ftopic2361.html</font>. This is a much better setup than the stock Servo Saver setup and I highly recommend it.</font></font>


I used a Hitec Metal Servo Horn attached to a Hitec 645MG Servo.</font>


I also
replaced the factory linkage that runs between the Servo horn and the
Bell Crank and made a custom length adjustable one using some OFNA Rod
Ends and a small bolt with the head cut off to link the Rod Ends. This
just gives a bit more adjustability.</font>


The OFNA
Monster Pirate Servo Saver was used and I fitted HPI Steering Ball
Bearing as well. I also have used a GPM Alloy Steering Cross Member
just to make things that little bit more rigid.</font>


The steering is now AWESOME!!</font>


Here
is a shot of the parts I used to link the Servo to the Servo Saver (at
the top of the pic is the standard rod which I replaced with a custom
length adjustabel rod)



</font></font>


Here is a shot of the Alloy GPM Tie Rod


</font></font>


Here is a few shots of the setup finished

</font></font>



</font></font>



</font></font>



</font></font>




</font></font>




I
then added an OFNA fuel filter as this is just a nice precaution to
take. I mounted this at the rear of the Truck as the extra fuel line
helps keep the Truck running a bit longer in the event of a roll over.</font>


Here are some shots of the Fuel Filter Setup

</font></font>




</font></font>




If you plan on running a Fuel Tank Guard
you may need to slighlt modify this as the tank on the S25 is different
to that on the SS and S21 which most current guards are designed for.</font>


You just
need to drill a large hole in the back of the guard then file it clean.
This just allows the rear pick up on the tank to clear the Tank Guard.</font>


Some shots of the Tank Guard Mod

</font></font>




</font></font>




Another
good idea is to tape up all that unwanted Antenna wire. It can just get
in the way when you are trying to access your receiver box and is best
tucked away. I just bunched mine up and taped it then used a small
amount of double sided tape to attach it to the receiver.</font>


Here is a shot of the antenna wire

</font></font>




</font></font>




This
completes a very comprehensive pre run build up that will ensure your
Savagwe has the goods to bash all day every day!! You do not need to
all of these mods, just choose the ones that suit your skill and needs
the most.</font>Edited by: Skidd
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
2) AVOID RUNAWAYS</font></font>


To avoid runaways I have installed a Venom Fail Safe and also a Throttle Return Spring.
This way if I ever have a failure the Truck will not run off at full
pace into a brick wall or what ever else jumps in front of it.</font>


What you
need to do is get a hold of a spring that is probably about 3 or 4mm in
diameter and about 15 to 20mm long (but use what ever suits your
application). It needs to have a little hook on each end. Losi actually
makes a throttle return spring - Part#A-9409. (thanks Corrado)</font>


Attach
one end of the spring to the end of the slide linkage where your
throttle rod is attached and then the other end can go to a few places
depending on the length od your spring. You can try these.... </font>


* attach it to the base of the HSN and have it stretch around the base of the airfilter and over to the slide linkage. </font>


* attach one end to the TVP chassis near the HSN and have it stretch around the the slide linkage. </font>


* Or what ever else you come up with. </font>


At the end of the day, as long as it pulls the carb shut when you are not on throttle, that is what is important.</font>


Here is a shot of the Fail Safe


</font></font>


Here is a shot of the TRS


</font></font>Edited by: Skidd
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
3) MONITOR YOUR TEMPS!!</font></font>


You really should have some method of monitoring your temps. I chose to install a Venom Temp Monitor to keep an eye on things. </font>


After
receiving a great tip from Savage_25_Guy I have relocated my Temp
Monitor to on top of the rear shock tower. This has a few advantages as
you can remove it easily for cleaning by pulling the two pins out that
hold the body post on and just slide it off with that and also it is
MUCH easier to read in this location with the body on.</font>


Here is a shot of the new location


</font></font>


And with the body on


</font></font>


I originally mounted it on the TVP under the exhaust.</font>


Venom Temp Monitor


</font></font>Edited by: Skidd
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
4) FINISHED BUILDING AND READY TO BREAK IN!!</font></font>


Now your Savage is all ready to Break in and should be looking hot!!</font>


Here are some photos of my original build with the original S25 engine still in.</font>


Here is a few shots of my baby

</font></font>



</font></font>



</font></font>




</font></font>
Edited by: Skidd
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
5) BREAK IN PROCEDURE


this is something that I have put together from my own experience with the S25. I have not had any problems starting the new engine, it actually started FIRST TIME and did not stall at all through the entire Break in process and it has run like a dream ever since break in. So I hope this helps some S25 newbies.


1) Check needle settings and ensure that the HSN is 4.5 turns outr from closed and then make sure the LSN is flush with the carb body.


2) Take the factory glow plug out and use a hotter plug. I used a Enya #4.


3) Fill your tank with fuel.


4) Put your Savage on a box or stand so the wheels can spin freely.


5) With your Radio gear turned OFF manually open the carb about a 1/4 of the way.


6) Get a regular everyday hairdryer and heat the block until it reaches about 140f to 150f. This will help the first start. This takes about 2 or 3 minutes.


7) Prime the motor by Inserting the Roto Start into the block and put your finger over the exhaust outlet. Press the Roto start button only VERY BREIFLY and watch the fuel in the fuel line. Once the fuel is about 1/2 an inch from reaching the carb - STOP, as this is enough.


8 ) Now you are ready to fire it up and Heat Cycle the engine. Be ready to adjust the carb by hand just incase it is open to much or not enough. Press the Roto start button until the motor fires up (this should only take a few seconds). Once the motor fires up remove the Roto Start and adjust the carb for a slightly high idle. (My SAV25 started first go using this method and did not stall at all through the entire process).


9) Once it is idling OK just let it sit there running for 3 minutes. Keep an eye on the temps and make sure they don't go to high.


10) After 3 minutes, shut the motor down by putting your finger over the exhaust. Once the motor stops use your finger to spin the flywheel and make sure the piston is not stuck at Top Dead Centre. Basically just make sure you can spin the fllywheel back and forward a little.


11) Let the motor completely cool down and then repeat steps 8, 9 and 10 4 more times.


12) Once you have completed Heat Cycling the motor you can then take it off the stand or box and get ready to take it for a little drive!! Fill your tank to the top in preperation. For the next 3 tanks DO NOT ADJUST THE HSN or LSN NEEDLES. You want it to still run really rich. Drive the car like this, avoiding prlonged use of full throttle for 3 tanks of fuel.


13) By this stage you will have done 5 heat cycles and driven through 3 full tanks of fuel. Now you are ready to start tunning the carb!! Firstly remove the Hot glow plug you put in for break in and install a cooler plug. I used an Enya #5. Over the next few tanks of fuel you can slowly (1 hour turns at most) start to lean out the HSN. You will slowly see the performance of the truck start to improve. Do not rush this process, you really want another 2 tanks of fuel to go through the truck while doing this.


14) Now you are ready to really make some power!! Firstly you need to tune the HSN and make sure that it has a nice blue trail of smoke from the exhaust at all times and keep the temps under 295f at max.


15) Now tune your LSN. This really will not need much, if any adjustment.


16) Lastly set your idle to a nice smooth idle.


That is it!! Your SAVAGE has been broken in and will start to loosen up more and more as you run more fuel through it. Just keep an eye on your temps and the smoke trail from your exhaust.Edited by: HIRISK
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
5) AFTER RUN


Just remember that when ever you finish driving your truck for the day always run the fuel out of the car completely.


If you still have half a tank or something, just tip the truck upside down with your fuel lid open to tip it out. If you only have a very little amount of fuel in the tank you can just run the motor (at ildle only!!) till it emptys.


Once the motor stalls from no fuel just plug your glow plug ignitor in and then crank the motor with the Roto start. It may fire up for a second or two, but just let it run out again. Do this a few times until you have completely run out of fuel.


This just helps avoid getting gunk build up in the motor and makes starting next time a lot easier.


If you will not be driving the truck for a while (4 days or more) you should then remove the air filter and glow plug then drop 4 or 5 drops of after run oil into each hole and then replace the filter and plug and give it a quick spin with the roto start.


I actually do this after every bash session.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Hi Guys,


Just out of interest I have stripped my S25 down to inspect the
internals. I have had the motor running a little eratic and thought I
should just check it all out.


Looks like internally it is all in great shape still. The only thing
left that could be causing the motor to run a bit crappy is my leaking
front crankshaft bearing.


Here are some shots of the stripped down engine.....


The entire engine pulled down





The stripped block





Piston and Rod





Sleeve





Backplate, Carb Slide, Roto Start and Head Button





S25 Carb


Edited by: Skidd
 

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Shaun,


Can you do us a favour and put together a parts list withh part numbers for the Steering Mod. I think that it involves quite a few more parts that the Throttle mod for instance, and I for one would love to see a comprehesive parts list.


Thanks,


AUSRC
 

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ok ill post it cause i came round,


Streeing Bell Crank withh Ball Bearings Ofna 18098


Aluminium Servo Arm Hitec 55701


the rest is mostly Hirisk's stuff, ill leave it to him now, or yeah hirist is the stock shock oil good 4 dandy? or 35/30 4 better,





thanks
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I would change the factory shock oil as it is not of a very high quality. For Dandenong you would be best to run about a 35 or 40wt in the rear and a 30wt in the front. Any heavier than that may cause roll overs in the corners.

The softer oil in shocks helps the truck handle better as it absorbs the body roll in corners rather than letting the truck tip over. Dandy is not an overly high traction surface, so roll overs are not common.
 

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Any chance of getting these pics back in here?


Morphy
Edited by: Morphy
 

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I will email HiRisk and ask him the question.


Regards,


AUSRC
 

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Im a newbie and id be interested in seeing the pics
 

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heySeppuku1876, that has what to do with this conversation?


&


i would like to see some pics there aswell, nice job HiRisk
Edited by: barbados_26
 

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yeh it was a bit off-topic Seppuku1876, but no worries. Its
better he asked it in here rather then him starting a whole
new post for that question
Cant wait for those photos!!
 

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ok i found my OLD AUSRC info and have ALL the pictures required.... now just someware to upload the HTML file to!.....
 

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i'll stick it on RCPICS.NET and uz can D/l it from there....have made it a WORD document and its 47 pages long..... uz can do the search for it..... good way to start would be looking for Foolsp33d..... oh btw.. its just on 2 meg.... so happy downloading!
 
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