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Discussion Starter · #1 ·






my new ride, Honda S2000 by tamiya on a MO4L chassis..RWD, full ball
bearings, oil shocks, esc coming soon, hitec radio gear, kit rims i
dont use, i got a old set i use for running....red andonized wheel
nuts, carbo gear shafts, FRP p0late from a TL01 on the back instead of
plastic bumper...



Nismo



PS, traction rolled it pretty bad after i got it, scratches at front, back, on roof, and a small crack at back...bugga


plan on getting a porche boxster body later for it..


Edited by: nismospeed
 

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nice car :)


look at the posts...lol so high


 

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i rekon the posts should be made out of metal, so if the car goes on its roof it will slide on the posts


:D
 
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
yeah i got to cut them.....gotta wait till i get new shocks though..cant get it any lower than 10mm..



Nismo
 

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migoreng said:
i rekon the posts should be made out of metal, so if the car goes on its roof it will slide on the posts

Nup, bad move. Alloy body posts will bend (and Stay Bent!) on impacts and if you flip the car, they will get roadrashed badly. Tamiya does sell TRF alloy posts, but they are also pretty expensive.


Plastic is light, flexible, cheap & easy to cut!
 
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
zoomer....off topic mate....

yes i agree that the posts shouldnt be made out off alu...bend easy...



the roof takes most of the damge when flipping.....




S2000 looks a bit beat already......rolled it twice, and damn it did some damage...




Nismo
 

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how did you roll it?


where did you drive it?
 
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
traction rolled....when you slide into a corner sometimes the tyres grab so hard it rolls you car....

i did it.....TWICE



Nismo


Edited by: nismospeed
 

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3 main causes of Traction rolling... and I reckon you scored 3 out of 3



#1 too much grip... M04L has stickier rear tyres than the front, and its narrower than a normal touring car. Yep, makes it more inclined to roll.


#2 Centre of gravity is too high. The trick is to mount everything down LOW on the frame - use the *sides* to mount your gear.


#3 Ride height too high. Stock ride height is waaay too high for any serious trackwork. Low is better.





At least the M04L handles like the real 1:1.
Damned twitchy rear end, revvy engine with zilch torque down low but heaps of power coming on at the top end 6000+. Difficult & dangerous car to drive hard.
 
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
hahaah, yeah..but i wasnt using kit tyres
..

i had some old bald tyres from a TL01 escort.....and i rolled....



weird



Nismo
 
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Discussion Starter · #11 ·






errrr...result off damage after a traction
roll, damn...too fast me thinks....



the wiring is all good...see









all zip tied down,



and zoomer!, any chance if you know what oil shocks i can use..?.....i
want some small ones so i can lower it down....cause i cant go below
around 9mm...

update....found these

extra short CVA mini shocks....



here are the shocks im using







and off course the S2000 eats tyres.....ALOT!!





Nismo




Edited by: nismospeed
 

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Jeez, that body is in a right real mess!



Quite hard to find M04L bodysets locally too, the only one they seem to sell is the BMW Mini.


nismospeed said:
and zoomer!, any chance if you know what oil shocks i can use..?.....i want some small ones so i can lower it down....cause i cant go below around 9mm...
update....found these
extra short CVA mini shocks....

Yup, 50746 SUPER MINI CVA is what you need for the M03/M04's susp arms (both use same arms). They are about 5mm shorter than the standard MINI CVAs.


They can quite hard to find but we know which shops have stock up here 'cos we buy a lot for our Minis. Melbourne is the Tamiya Mini capital of Australia, hahaha. Pricewise about $30/pr.


SUPER MINI CVAs are only available in plastic, there's no alloy equivalent.
 
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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
thanks jig!



yeah it was a nice body, got battle marks.....lol



Zoomer, how low will those CVA extra mini shocks make the S2000??



thanks

Nismo
 

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Dunno - never tried on M04 only on M03. (We don't race M04s here, so no point getting one running for us.)


The shocks are overall about 5mm shorter I think. But I can't simply measure them as none of my shocks are built "standard", they've all got different spacers inside & I don't remember which has got what anymore. The Super Minis allow the M04/M03 suspension to keep their full Up travel.


Another setup I've seen uses Standard-length Mini CVAs but replace the bottom ballend with 53488 - Adjustable Ball Connectors. I don't know how well this works nor if it gives full Up travel too, but that's the only solution for the guys who just HAVE to run alloy shockers.





Melbourne Mini racers are generally cheapskates, we don't spend $$ if we don't have to. A lot of us still stick with the standard kit friction shocks and heck these cars don't lap any slower than the oil-shocked cars - can't tell the difference on the track.


We even built a Mini for Surikarn Chadjasuriya when he visited us antipodeans the Sydney Eastern Creek Winter Champs 2003. Surikarn whupped everybody's butt with a stock standard (but MELBOURNE built & painted!!) M03.
 

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Yup.



(its good not being a mod, can just rabbit on and let the mods take care of steering
)
 
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