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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
want to put a heatsink on my ESC as it gets quite warm after an hours
use in the micro....question is, the esc is a tekin pro forward and
brake...





as you can see there 5 with bronze tops, and 2 silver tops...now do i
just put a heatsink on all of them??..or just a few?..ive been
told that you can blow it up by putting the HS in on all of them, short
circuts or something???






and also what does it mean by "zapping" the magnets in the motor???



thanks

Nismo
 
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
ok then......




well i cant really find anything..guess ill just have to tryit out..hmm better not...cant afford to buy a new esc if i blow it




Nismo
 

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Have you thought about cooling fans and venting air? should avoid any shorting issues if you had concerns. DOes it help without the body on?


Just how hot is it getting? Are we talking "hmm that feels nice" or "DAMN THATS HOT!"?Edited by: AUSRC
 

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one hour straight is a fairly long time for a speedy to be running. my futaba mc 330cr only ever sees 10 minutes at most due to crap efficiency of a monster stock and run time of gp 3300's
 
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
its not hot hot..

but its warm...but i want to put a heatsink on there, cause, 1 it will
help keep it cooler..and 2 it will look cool aswell.lol...

body off..nah..no point in doing that..

fans in a micro..hahahahaha..seen how small they are??



1 hour is a while, but running 4 cells on stock lasts ages..im
upgrading to a faster motor anyways..and a 7.2v pack..or maybe even a
6v...



Nismo
 

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On a Reversing ESC, DO NOT short both the fwd & reverse FETs with a metal heatsink - you'll blow them immediately.


Either use 2 separate heatsinks for each bank of FETs or sometimes you can find ESC heatsinks that are electrically insulated by a silicone boot.


With fwd-only ESCs, the brake FETs also should not be heatsinked to the fwd FETs.
 

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woudlnt the reversing one be the smaller of the two as it is used less and needs less cooling???
 
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
mine is a forward brake esc..

im guessing the fat bronze ones are forward and the other 2 are brake???..

5 fets forward 2 fets brake??.i dunno..hmm



Nismo
 

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FETs are soldered into the circuit in parallel... so its safe to assume everything in the same line would be the same.


A smart ESC maker would usually also put a plastic flange to stop shorting between the 2 banks if you accidentally drop a screwdriver or allen key on top of the ESC.





Safest way is to test the voltage between each bank of FETs. There's usually 7.2V difference between fwd & rev (that's what does the damage). There should be 0V between the FETs of the same bank.
 
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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
ok on my esc it has 5 fets in a row, then a plastib bit seperating 1 more fet..which is also moved down a bit



im guessing the 5 bronze ones have a different value comparied to the 2 silver ones...how do i check if there on the same bank??



Nismo
 

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Get a digital voltmeter and measure the voltage between the tabs of the 2 banks.


Theoretically there should be 7.2V voltage difference between the 2 banks.
 
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