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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Is it worth spending a lot of money on the little tamyia pressure packs for painting bodies? Or can I get suitable paint elsewhere.


What paints should not be used?


Thanks.
 

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with tamiya paint make sure the paint code starts with PS not TS


ps is polycarb paint meaning it flexes, if and when you crash and bend the body. TS is for hard plastic. and will flake off if you bend a body. PS 34 is my color of choice
 

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I used tamiya blue and white paint from spraycans to paint my jeep and it did an excellent job, and i still have the whole white can left as i used it for backing only.


the tamiya paint works fine to paint any rc body.
 

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PS34... isn't that "smoke" ???



Morphy said:
Is it worth spending a lot of money on the little tamyia pressure packs for painting bodies? Or can I get suitable paint elsewhere.


What paints should not be used?

If you want your paint to stick on permanently, only use paints made for polycarbonate. There are many brands out there eg Parma, Fascolor etc but Tamiya is probably easiest to find & most convenient.


For airbrush owners, there is option of Fascolor (waterbase), AlcladII & Parma bottles (lacquer) and also the Tamiya "PC" bottles (acrylic).


The "TS" stuff Tamiya makes, the paint seems to etch into the plastic and hangs on forever. You can never get it off again, not without destroying the material.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
What do you suggest to tint the windows with? The LHS has a very limited selection of PS paints...
 

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PS31 "Smoke" is your friend.


Apply it lightly from 40cm away and it'll dry hazy, like steamed up windows.


Apply it closer ~20cm and thicker and it dries clearer but tinted grey.





You could also try Tamiya's latest "translucent" shades in red, blues, green, orange etc. They work just like Smoke.





zoomer said:
PS34... isn't that "smoke" ???

My bad. PS34 is the "Bright Red" as used on Modena Ferrari. Was painting last night and saw PS31 on Smoke can.
 
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thats what i was thinking...the stratus i got has had a light coat of
black on , and it looks tinted from a distance, but up close you can
see through



Nismo
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Yeah I've decided tinted windows are just way too damn hard and expensive - black it is!
 

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nismospeed said:
If you wanted tinted windows... what's wrong with using actual tint?
you could i guess..but wouldnt that be a bit more pricey??

Nismo

I wouldn't think it would cost anything... if you couldn't set a 3cm off cut for free out of a window tint mob, I'd be surprised.


Personally I don't think it's a pain to put on but I'll wait until I've actually done it to anRC body before I comment.
 

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Skidd said:
If you wanted tinted windows... what's wrong with using actual tint?

Funny that... that's exactly what we did back in the 1980s!!!



Raided the offcuts from the bins at the auto tint shop, stuck them to the lexan.


Looks ok when fresh, but the stuff does scratch/scuff easier than lexan and after a while the edges start lifting. Nitro fuel also does funny things to some brands.
 

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zoomer said:
Skidd said:
If you wanted tinted windows... what's wrong with using actual tint?

Funny that... that's exactly what we did back in the 1980s!!!



Raided the offcuts from the bins at the auto tint shop, stuck them to the lexan.


Looks ok when fresh, but the stuff does scratch/scuff easier than lexan and after a while the edges start lifting. Nitro fuel also does funny things to some brands.

LOL..



OK so there's a real response... on oldie laughing at the newbie for thinking about something he tried 20 years ago that didn't work. LOL... you needed to preface the above with.. "Well Gwarshopper"



Ok so I'll be dissappointed with the real tint approach... I'll guess I'll just be looking for the smoke paint as well.
Edited by: Skidd
 
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