I was interested in seeing wat brand of fuel australians use in there cars, as australia has limited range....and were you buy it from and cost, as i am trying to locate the cheapest nitro in brisbane..
ok, that must be very good quality, mr toys sells 20% 2L for 25.00, so hopefully if i can find a fuel in the middle of these 2 it would be great, hobbyrama is a great hobby shop, i like the fish shop next door
i dont think that AUSRC's engine needs replacing, he uses that fuel, my point of view all australian fuels are much of a muchness and none being much better than the other, maybe it was thier engines and not the fuel...
Am shaking my head reading all you boys talking about the Biggest Bottles...
size don't count fellas, in fact large bottles of fuel are often bad.
Ok, time for some:
NITRO FUEL BASICS 101
Some chemistry... Nitro model fuel is a mixture of
<LI>Oil: 10-20% by volume</LI>
<LI>Nitromethane: 5, 10, 15, 20 and up to 40% for some racing fuels</LI>
<LI>Methanol (methy alcohol): the rest of it</LI>
<LI>Colouring, perfumes: sometimes added in tiny quantities</LI>
Your engine doesn't have an oil supply, it gets all its lubrication from the fuel going through it. If oil isn't coming out of your tailpipe, there might be insufficient oil going in - BAD!! Run your engine rich for longetivity, that feeds it lots of oil.
Castor oil has been used for decades... if its pure, it works great. Castor makes lots of nice smoke too (no smoke = no oil = BAD). However there's sometimes doubt as to quality of the castor in some fuels - with castor as in everything else, you pay for what you get - there's cheap & then there's the good pure stuff.
Synthetics don't make as much smoke normally and usually don't work as well under high-stress situations... would be better for low-stress airplanes its usually said.
Contrary to popular opinion... Nitromethane doesn't actually create 'power' by burning. No, its there to supply "oxygen" to the engine so it can burn its true fuel (methanol) better. Think of it like an RC nitrous oxide NOS setup.
Methanol is the burning bit.
However Methanol is ALSO very hygroscopic. It picks up water moisture from the air, and that makes the fuel go Off. Stale fuel doesn't burn well & makes your engine very hard to start, won't idle nicely and just plain difficult.
Generally speaking... don't keep your fuel more than 3-6 mths. That's TOTAL TIME folks, from the time the manufacturer bottled it at their factory. And once you've opened the bottle and you recap it half-used, it will go off even faster.
Good Fuel tips:-
<LI>Buy multiple smaller bottles... there's usually higher turnover of small bottles so the stocks are fresher.</LI>
<LI>Buy fuel more often, don't buy more than what you're going to use within a month. Once open (texta the date on the bottle), use it up within a month or throw it away.</LI>
<LI>Always immediately re-seal the bottle after topping up. Don't leave it uncorked all day whilst you play.</LI>
<LI>Don't change nitro % willynilly. Stick to the same % as when you've run in the engine. Some say you should even do run-in again when changing your %. There isn't much reason to use more than 10-15% for bashing, its just more expensive for not much gain. </LI>
<LI>Avoid "imported" fuels... this is one industry were Local is Better. Foreign stuff would have spent several months in the distribution channel and many weeks on a boat (sea = damp!) - so unless you can buy fuel in TIN CANs (eg K&B brand), stay clear of all imported plastic bottles. Brandnames are worthless - Australia produces tons of methane/methanol too!</LI>
<LI>I'd also avoid any fuel that has some serious amts of colouring (purple? deep red?) and anything that has a fruity smell added to it. Both do nothing for combustion.</LI>
<LI>Don't store it on a concrete garage floor - that's damp! If it has to sit on the floor, sit it on a sheet of polystyrene foam or similar insulation/waterproof.</LI>
<LI>If your storage spot sees a big variance in temperature (hot day, night cold)everyday, you should consider putting your fuel into an Esky or thermal bag.</LI>
<LI>If you finish playing and there's still fuel in the tank... DON'T put that fuel back into the bottle!!! Throw the tank contents out immediately.</LI>
<LI>Always run a fuel filter, offroad especially.</LI>[/list]
And there's much to be said about using After Run Oil in your engine too, before putting it away.
I have been using Super Drop Model EngineFuel made by The Hobby Headquaters in Kirrawee NSW.
Its 67 % Methyl Alc.
18 % oil
and 15 % Nitro
Its $14 a litre and I have no choice but to use it because its
the only brand u can get in Cairns and its the highest nitro
quantity the shop stocks. I know HPI suggest to use 20 %, will this
cause me any problem running 5% under ?
Lesser nitro does NOT harm your engine. You can even use 0% if you need to.
Using 20% instead of 15% just means you get a little less power, and maybe your engine doesn't idle as smoothly. But if you've tuned it correctly for 15% then I'll bet it runs just fine - just make sure its FRESH. 15% fuel is cheaper than 20% too.
Oil %... now that's a different matter. Should always follow engine company's recommendation on that - usually they say 12-15% oil, or More is better. So don't buy fuel made for airplanes and helicopters for use in your car, sometimes these aircraft fuels have less than 10% oil.
Nitro also ignites at a lower temp than Methanol. This means, the higher the nitro %, the richer you can run, the cooler the glow plug you can run, and the cooler the engine will run if tuned correctly, for now real lose in power.
hi people just a little worning for people that use Hot Stuff Model
Fuel there are 2 companies that make the fuel with the same label on
it! some bottles say 5% castor 15% synthetic but it actulally is only
synthetic!! ull know wot 1 u hav because u can smell the castor
burning. ( dont sniff it too much u can get very sick from it).
had a few problems with getting any power out of it ? it was ideling ok but not great and was boggy down low and had no power at all and wouldnt run properly
i changed glow plug from factory to duratex carbonand it ran a little better but still no power , tried every possible screw setting and combination and got it a little better but still no real power.
i am using glow-max cb 16% that is about 1 1/2 month old that i purchased in 4l size and have only used a litre since i got it.on my dom which is running all that good either at the moment
i think that the fuel must be off that can be my only thought as to why it just wont run and the temp got up to 300'f but then let cool down and it didnt get past 270'f on second tank but then gave up as getting dark and frustrated..
what do you people reckon ?? i think fuel is off .....imo