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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
OK I want to go get at least one battery pack and charger today

for my ta04s with ESC and sport tuned 540

i want to run in races in the local club, races run for 5 minutes and
they also have endurance races that go for 15 minutes but allow a
battery change

i want a charger that will charge off 240v as well as off the ciggie
lighter in the car (or straight off car battery if need be)

What should i get??

Also is it recommended to have rechargables for the transmitter?? i
have an old acoms unit at this stage (if it still works, i havent tested it
yet as i have no batteries) what is the power consumption like on
them??

TIA
 

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azenis said:
i want a charger that will charge off 240v as well as off the ciggie
lighter in the car (or straight off car battery if need be)

For under A$50, your best bet for Nicads is the Arlec/Stadium 167... its the size of a housebrick but takes its feed off 240VAC & 12VDC. Very reliable unit, delta-peaks at 3A then trickles. No buttons to press, totally user-friendly.





This is its 12V DC-only brother... does 5A though, and much more portable.





For up to $100... there are 1 or 2 other 'better' chargers (that can also do NiMH) around, but most of them need 12VDC & aren't AC capable. Most of them are from a newcomer "Ansmann" - I don't have one yet but the guys that use them haven't complained.


Left is DC-only but very adjustable, right is AC/DC but simplistic.








Also is it recommended to have rechargables for the transmitter?? i
have an old acoms unit at this stage (if it still works, i havent tested it
yet as i have no batteries) what is the power consumption like on
them??

Old AM transmitters aren't very hungry, you'll probably get minimum 20-50hrs use from a set of Alkaline AAs. I'd just use alkalines for now, don't worry about rechargeables - if you do use rechargeables, it is advisable NOT to use loose cells but to get a proper soldered/welded battery pack.


Buy brandname alkalines, not from $2 shop... and don't forget to turn your TX off after use!!



Make sure your old Receiver is "BEC" capable too, if you are using an MSC (mech spd ctrl). A non-BEC RX will toast if you connect it direct to 7.2V.





Newer Computer FM radios suck a lot more current though, probably 5-10X as much. Rechargeables are good here, if only to save some money.


But with rechargeables... you've gotta remember to charge them up. Overnight charging is best, so need to plan ahead.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks Zoomer
I went up to the shop and they had sold their racing batteries so I got
a $35 generic 2100mah pack

I got a charger too, you have put a pic of it in your email too which is
inspiring confidence in my decision, the white one with the angled face
that does discharge and has the knob to adjust the amperage of
charge.

how do i tell if my reciever has BEC?? I think it might but i cant
remember... its an Acoms Techniplus if that helps. I am using an
ESC, a nosram international.
 

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azenis said:
$35 generic 2100mah pack

That's not a bad price, pretty sharp. Sanyocells hopefully?

the white one with the angled face that does discharge and has the knob to adjust the amperage of charge.

yeah, the Ansmanns are appearing in many places. How much was it for you?




how do i tell if my reciever has BEC?? I think it might but i cant
remember... its an Acoms Techniplus if that helps. I am using an
ESC, a nosram international.

RX with BEC will have the "BEC" round logo on it; if it doesn't then it doesn't. Old Techniplus probably doesn't have it.


But that's ok if you use it with an ESC. The ESC will pump only a voltage-regulated 5V or 6V to the RX so that's perfectly fine.


BEC just means a voltage regulator is also built into the RX so you can power it straight from 7.2V if you have to, without it blowing up. Otherwise 6V is the max for non-BEC RXes.
 

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I've got a couple of the same charger - Name on the package is "Omni" though.

I think they're pretty good, means I'll be able to charge all 12 AAs from my transmitter & receiver at the same time (using the old charger as well)

Anyone have a 12V car battery spare for me to run my charger from??? ;)

Cheers! Oggy.
 
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on topic of chargers....

im on the look out for a decent charger too, as the site has crashed
and pics gone, could you give a pic of the one youi bought nige?...and
how much was it...



also the LHS has 2300 packs for about $30...i dont know if there sanyo
cells, but im going to get a pack, see how good they are, if there
good, me and my mate are going to get a few more...



later ppl

Nismo
 

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When it comes to chargers, don't be afraid to by a 12v DC only charger.


I run my DC charger on my desk using an old PC Powersupply (AT Type). These are a great, high amp, 12 volt powersupply, and dirt cheap. I can charge 7.2 volt packs at 5 amps using this setup, no dramas. You can use ATX power supplies but you have to make more mods to get it to "power up".


Thought you might be interested.


Regards,


AUSRC
 
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yeap thanks, looking for one to charge of a 12v car batt(got 2 under my bed)....



ive seen a pocket charger in LHS for $45 , will look into it tommorow...also heard of a eagle pocket charger too



Nismo
 

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a switch mode power supply is very handy to have as well. you can get em from jaycar for about 100. the run off 240v and put out 12v. the one i got is good for 12 amps so it will run most 12v chargers. this means no more mucking around with car batteries. still you have the option of using a car baterry if where you are racing does not have 240v available.
 

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AUSRC said:
...using an old PC Powersupply (AT Type). These are a great, high amp, 12 volt powersupply, and dirt cheap. I can charge 7.2 volt packs at 5 amps using this setup, no dramas. You can use ATX power supplies but you have to make more mods to get it to "power up".

Be very careful about "promoting" these DIY hacks of PC PSUs, Chris. Such use is outside of their intended design, the usual hacks make the PSUs fail their original approval compliance and should anyone get electrocuted or cause a fire etc, fingers will start pointing.


Over the last few yrs, all savvy clubs have banned the use of these hacked PSUs - even the ones built by engineers who (you hope) know what they're modding. They are considered a threath to clubs' public liability insurance coverage.


When racers are using $300+ chargers, there is really no excuse for using a hack PC PSU.





btw sucking only the 12V lines means the 5V is unused and can unbalance the switchmode design. Many PC PSUs don't like that, they need some load on the 5V... otherwise your 12V line might be sitting at 10V or 18V+. Voltage regulation can be dodgy under high continuous current drain.


ATX PSUs need some jumpering of the mobo powercable to switch the PSU on (soft switch), that's the main difference.
 

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nismospeed said:
... a 12v car batt(got 2 under my bed)....

Good incentive as any NOT to Wet your Bed!!






Dunno about you folks, but I wouldn't be storing leadacids indoors, especially if you're charging it. Mine sits outside under the eaves... with a wire from it running indoors.
 
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lol...

i thought it was bad for a battery to sit on cement outside...

ohwell, its only been under my bed for a few days(since i charged the batts to destroy the car)...

think ill move them then..



Nismo
 

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cold cement is not the best for car batteries so just sit them on a block of wood outside. battery acid will make short work of the carpet in your room should the batteries leak.
 

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yeah, mine sits on a 1" platform of wood with four heavy-duty castors underneath.


I also have a rectangular mop bucket that's the perfect size for the battery; I use that to carry the battery to/from the car and it also contains the odd acid or water spillage.


Also bought a solar battery charger some mths ago... I should go install it. Leadacids don't like deep-cycling, they should always be kept fully charged. Keep it on a float charger and a car battery will last forever in storage.





Surviving under the eaves is "easy living" for a battery compared to what it suffers under the bonnet - heat, vibration, jarring, under/overcharged.


Some new cars these days even come with an insulated jacket for the battery, just to try make them last longer than the car's warranty period.
 

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Oh and don't use a computer powersupply. When it dies from the not intended use, it will most definately take whatever you've connected to itout as well (charger and batts!). That could get costly...
 

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Morphy said:
have you tried solar charging? Would not need a big panel to keep you batts in tip-top shape

It depends on what level of output you are looking for.


I have an engie friend who once had about a 16 sq.ft area of panels on his roof, which charged a 12V battery to solely power a BBC Microcomputer - which ran his home alarm system 24hrs/day.


That solar panel I bought (from KMart...) is about 1 sq.ft total glass area in a case about 20"x8". I think it pumps out 50-100mA, perfect for maintenance floating a spare car battery; you can also buy plugin chargers that do the same thing.





If you want something a bit more meaty try a boat/marine supplier - they have solar chargers that do the batteries to supply the bilge pump, so there's occasional drain on the batteries.





And if you want enough solar panels to cover the north side of your house roof and banish your dependence on grid electricity forever... I know some Ing greenies who can help.
 
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when i charge up batts, i put a charger from the wall plug, onto the
12v car battery, then i hook up a RC charger to charge my 1700's...that
way the battery stays full. and i leave it charge for a while
afterwards..



Nismo
 

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I've always just used the 12v connector straight from the car battery in my car. Been lucky i guess, never ever had a problem (well except when my little bro hooked the bat up the wrong way....)
 

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nismospeed said:
when i charge up batts, i put a charger from the wall plug, onto the 12v car battery, then i hook up a RC charger to charge my 1700's...that way the battery stays full. and i leave it charge for a while afterwards..

Damned, you certainly SHOULDN'T ever be charging leadacids INDOORS!


When they're fully charged the electrolyte starts bubbling away. That's the electrolysis of water in the acid, generating good quantities of hydrogen & oxygen.


Open ventilation required otherwise 1 little spark and KABOOM!!!
 
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