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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
OK so I'm still waiting for parts so I can't assemble my savage again...





 

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the tranny is still in 1 piece
. Mine will look like that next week
only not nearly as organised
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
LOL yeah its going to look like a spanker when I get it back together again. Hardly worth it - it will be covered in dirt in about 5sec again anyway.


Its amazing how simple it looks spread all over my bench... Let see what parts I have left at the end of the week.


Also while itsin little bits, I'm taking the opportunity to change most of the stock screws to hex heads.


by the way found that I have 3 split shocks???? I thought these things were ment to be one of the few parts that take the pounding and don't break...
 

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Morphy,


If I could find the camera, I'd show you mine. Stripped it down tonight.


Like you, I am replacing every screw with a fine thread hex head. Can't wait to get the diff screws replaced. My diffs look perfect inside, but the screws keep backing out. I reckon I will be happy with the plastic cups, so long as I can keep the screws in.


I have also damaged the two front-most shocks. Not split them, but bent the shafts. If you had seen some of my recent bashing, you would understand. They have taken a pounding mind you, so I can't complain.


Regards,


Chris
 

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i wanna replace all my screws too.. (next breakdown.. since im half way rebuilding the entire truck..

















My tranny case is open
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hehhee. thanks to the air compressor.. its a little cleaner!



Edited by: Fire
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
husky said:
are they split down the seam? or the end cap?

All down the seam. The first split where it was attached to the parts tree, so I thought I might have rushed assmebly.


Bled them all last weekend and now another two have pin hole spilts along the sides where the join is.


Just on this topic - how do you bleed the shocks? I tried to get as little air in there as possible, and they went really stiff - I was really happy with them. But now I think it may have caused too much pressure??? I thought no air was recomended in the manual....
 

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AUSRC said:
I have also damaged the two front-most shocks. Not split them, but bent the shafts. If you had seen some of my recent bashing, you would understand. They have taken a pounding mind you, so I can't complain.

Are Savage shock shafts mild steel (grey anodised?) or stainless steel?


Used to break lots of HPI shock shafts until we realised they sold stainless steel replacements. These seem a lot tougher, not as brittle.
 
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"I am replacing every screw with a fine thread hex head"


What are fine thread hex head screws? why are they better than normal screws ?


please excuse my ignorance, i have only had my savage for two weeks.
 

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snowball.. fine thread screws grip better into the plastic, as they
have more theeth, and are finer! .... the HEx hed bit, means they are
allen key type heads.., rather then the standard phillips.. ..



it helps keep the screws in the savage, as some of them back out, and you loose some.. (like me)..



<a href="http://www.ausrc.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=908&PN=1" target="_blank">follow this thread. we are organising a local HEX screw kit (thanks to morphy)

http://www.ausrc.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=908&PN=1</a>



Cheers.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
They are also quite a lot stronger than the stock screws. I have managed to strip some heads and some of the stock screws have snapped in the plastic instead of pulling out...
 

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You know I'm not so sure about putting a machine thread into plastic... seems to me that it's not going to have the 'bite' required to hold in plastic.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
It actually has more bite into plastic as there is more surface area in contact with the plastic (I think the common ratio is 3:1).


You can usually put a fine thread into a hole that is previously no good for a normal screw. Even when you strip a thread, just swap it for a fine thread bolt.


If your worried you can always use plastic loctite (AKA superglue) to keep your screw holes tight. I re-build my holes this way when I have completly stripped the threads. It works by meltingthe plastic to fit around the bolt.... perfect thread again!
 

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OK I agree more threads per inch... but each thread is shallower so I can't see how it would have more hold. I was thinking the deeper self tapper style thread on the factory screws would dig further into the plastic giving better grip.


In the end I'll agree I don't *really* know the answer... but it just doesn't sit well with me that a fine thread into plastic will work better.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I think you'll find that only a small portion of each thread actually bites into the plastic. I just looked and most of the holes are slightly bigger than the shaft of the screws. This is not the case with the fine thread bolts - they actuall have to make the hole slightly bigger to fit.


I've also tried (on a spare plastic diff case) the required tension to strip the plastic and find that the fine threads will take much more, and hence hold tighter. It doesn't seem logical to me at first, but the fine threads hold a lot tighter.


Another advantage is that the pitch is closer so they are less prone to vibration.
 

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wow.. too much technical talk..



morphy.. i did this test too.. and the fine thread held better.. (the stock fine thread i tested with),



i used my old DIFF cups, and i puled them out with plyers (they were only in about 3 mm)
..

the fine thread was harder to pry out.. the fine thread needed
alot of pulling and bending, and pulling. , the rough thread just
ripped a chunk out of the hole..



so im gonna have to say.. fine thread is better
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
I love destructive testingEdited by: Morphy
 
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