Australian RC Forums banner
1 - 15 of 15 Posts
G

·
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
yeah i soldered up 1x 2400 pack today...

first one ever, batt was froma mate in melb, they needed fixing so i did, they are awesome..

and they work to, charged fine





this is before i soldered them

what do i wrap them with now?? i got some strong tape around them for now,

but can i put a big tube of heatshrink over them or something??






Edited by: nismospeed
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,343 Posts
i asked.. no luck
.



Looks like u have to go with RED or something..



or if u wanna be creative.. get colours, and overlap them (and cut holes in the outer tube so u can see the inner tube)



Heatshrink the inner colour.. then cut the holes in the outer colour,
then heat shrink that
... make it look like those crap squish balls
we all make
 
G

·
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
yeah looking in DSE tommorow




you posted same time i did...lol



Heatshrink the inner colour.. then cut the holes in the outer colour,
then heat shrink that
... make it look like those crap squish balls
we all make


LOL i remember those..

i was thinking black heatshrink, or red


Edited by: nismospeed
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
6,579 Posts
Battery-pack heatshrink is hard to find today even at LHSes 'cos nobody uses it anymore. Wrapping covers the cells (d'uh!
) and makes it harder to cool down when warm, so no one does it.


'Cept me.



For side-by-sides, its usually best to get "single cell" wrap and do them before you glue them. This stuff is thin and hugs the cells, doesn't affect cooling too much.


Wrapping your cells will make your pack fatter/wider; some cars will not have room for the larger pack, their chassis are designed to hold only naked cells. (Huge exception being TB02, thanks Tamiya!!)





Battery wrap is a thin polyester shrink, different to the rubbery stuff electronic stores sell for insulation. If your LHS don't have shrinkwrap, make friends with your local BatteryWorld shopkeep.
 

·
AUSRC Moderator
Joined
·
6,275 Posts
So if peeps don't wrap them any more how do they hold the 5 cell hump packs into shape? I'd have thought they wouldn't be too solid just relying on the joining tags.
Edited by: Skidd
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
6,579 Posts
We were talking about subCs, not smaller cells.


Most don't bother glueing either, they just hang together by the soldered battery bars. (me I run a little ShoeGoo just for safety.)


For smaller packs eg AA or smaller cells, I do tape & glue them together - usually superglue as I don't plan on dismantling them ever again afterwards = bulletproof. Yes I then shrinkwrap those whole too.
 

·
AUSRC Moderator
Joined
·
6,275 Posts
zoomer said:
We were talking about subCs, not smaller cells.


Most don't bother glueing either, they just hang together by the soldered battery bars. (me I run a little ShoeGoo just for safety.)


For smaller packs eg AA or smaller cells, I do tape & glue them together - usually superglue as I don't plan on dismantling them ever again afterwards = bulletproof. Yes I then shrinkwrap those whole too.

Ahhhh now I get it.... this super glue is great stuff, tyres, batteries etc... good for a whole host of jobs.


Where do you get the battery tags from? Is that a DSE item as well?
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
6,579 Posts
SubCs use "battery bars", many RC companies make 'em. No point reinventing the wheel, they work good.





For smaller cells... search for cardboard box staples. Ya serious!! The ones they put in with the "eagle's talons" stapler tool... the staples are about 4mm wide flat bars. Cut 'em into 1cm strips, makes great battery bars.


No idea where you buy them as I just yank them used out of cardboard boxes.
 

·
AUSRC Moderator
Joined
·
6,275 Posts
zoomer said:
SubCs use "battery bars", many RC companies make 'em. No point reinventing the wheel, they work good.





For smaller cells... search for cardboard box staples. Ya serious!! The ones they put in with the "eagle's talons" stapler tool... the staples are about 4mm wide flat bars. Cut 'em into 1cm strips, makes great battery bars.


No idea where you buy them as I just yank them used out of cardboard boxes.

Thanks Sir Zoomer... you are a legend.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
6,579 Posts
My favourite BatteryWorld recently quoted me about $1 more for "tabbed" small cells over the untabbed ones. Thin flimsy tin-foil spotwelded on.


"No thanks Roger, I'll just take the untabbed cells. And oh, ok if I have that cardboard box you're chucking out over there??"
 

·
AUSRC Moderator
Joined
·
6,275 Posts
zoomer said:
My favourite BatteryWorld recently quoted me about $1 more for "tabbed" small cells over the untabbed ones. Thin flimsy tin-foil spotwelded on.


"No thanks Roger, I'll just take the untabbed cells. And oh, ok if I have that cardboard box you're chucking out over there??"

I Guess you can't blame them for trying 'ey?


I know that all these Q's probably seem like a bother... just one more; Do you solder them together just using the normal 5 core resin solder or does it take a special type of solder & iron?
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
6,579 Posts
I just use normal electronics solder, nothing special. Normal Pb/Sn stuff; don't bother with the high-Ag stuff, need higher temps & not worth bothering with.


What is important is a Good Powerful Iron. Small cells I do with my 15yo Portasol Pro (damned convenient) or for subCs I'm using a basic 80W Weller. The Weller is good as its got a huge tip+element so there's large thermal mass -meaning there's more than enough reserve when the heat conducts away.


Takes no longer than 2 seconds touch on each joint & flow the solder; the battery don't even get warm.


With hindsight 80W is probably overkill, 60W would be enough. I usually let it heat up for 15 mins then switch it off before I use it, there's enough heat mass to do a 6pack.


If I can be bothered, I usually Dremel the cell ends with the little sanding drum.
 
1 - 15 of 15 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top