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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi,

Thought I would share with you my new Truggy.

This is my first Nitro car. Car before this was a very old Tamiya Manta Ray (see photo).

Tire Wheel Car Vehicle Automotive tire


Followed the HPI manual and have now run it through its engine break-in, 1 tank at idle with wheels off the ground, 2 tanks at varying speeds up-to about 1/2 throttle on a flat open area.

Looking forward to some good bash about fun. Going to head to Eltham BMX track over the next couple of days (help please Mr Weatherman).

Tire Wheel Vehicle Car Automotive tire


Mick
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
Hey mate, good!

Have not been out for a run since, I will be going out for a bash tomorrow at Stintons reserve, so I will let you know how it goes.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Still runs well. Takes a while to get started, I think I may not be priming enough.

I adjusted the low speed needle as it was bogging down a little when starting to accelerate. Plenty of smoke as it tears away in a cloud of dust and gravel.

How important is engine temperature vs performance/smoke? Its running at about 150 Degrees (at glow-plug), which is way above what is recommended by HPI (120 max).

Mick
 

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Hey Mick,

My Savage runs about that also. Not sure how important it is. But I dont seem to be able to get mine under 150ish while running. Even rich as hell.

Hopefully someone else can chime in why
 

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Different engines run at different temps. Just the way it is. I have two identical LRP engines and they are about 30C apart while both giving same performance. Don't know why that is.

The only thing I can recommend to you is to go on Youtube and watch this video. Click here. Checking an engine for leaks would be the best way to make sure everything is right. If after checking/sealing the engine it still wants to run at same temp then just don't worry about it. As long as everything checks out and you have a nice trail of smoke from the exhaust then you are fine.

Like I said I have one LRP that gives it's best around 105C and the other feels really slugish until it gets leaned out to about 135C. Both are fine and have tons of comp.

And BTW a little bit of a leak around the front bearing/crankshaft area is normal. Leaks around the carb and the back plate area are normally ones that could give trouble.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanks BB,

I think I will check for leaks next time I have the motor out. I am not overly concerned, its just that the info that HPI give out with their cars doesn't match real life.

I think gravel is my greatest enemy, keep getting heaps stuck in the chassis, but other than that not a single broken part!... yet.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Okay, after todays bash session at Stintons Reserve, I have destroyed my steering servo on the Truggy, and am now looking for a replacement.

Had a look at the range available on Towers, and there are heaps of different types available:

Standard
Standard Ball Bearing
High Performance
Large Scale
Digital
Brushless and
High Voltage

Can anyone explain the pros and cons of each type? and perhaps offer a suggested replacement?

Mick
 

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High Voltage servos are great but you might have to run a lipo voltage regulator if your receiver isn't high voltage capable. If you are running Spektrum receiver then you can run them at 9V+ but all other brands (that I know of) have a 6V limit and with them you will need the regulator. Also your Ni-MH receiver battery would have to be changed to Li-Po too so you can have the high voltage in the first place (ahhh duhhh!)

IMO there are plenty good servos that run on 6V and are up to the job of steering a truggy. In my truggy and pretty much all my cars I am using the ACE1015 servo. Around 15kg of torque, fast and smooth. Does the job very well IMO. Also if you look on ebay you should be able to find it around the $90 mark.

Anyway what ever servo you get make sure it is a reputable brand and that it is metal geared. Also you will need 14kg+ of torque and the faster the servo the better really. Forget standard (plastic gears) and large scale servos (they are freakin HUGE).

Hitec has just announced a new line of brushless servos. The motor and the speed controller are made by Castle Creations. They offer impressive torque and they claim that these servos will use only a fraction of current that most servos use. Sound very impressive but they are going to be somewhere around the $170-180 mark. Pretty steep.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Thanks BB,

Think I'll stay away from High Voltage, looking for a drop-in replacement that is going to last a lot longer than stock.

Hitec have a Titanium Gear one:
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXTHR3&P=SM
Good torque 18-24kg.

And a Hobbico one:
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXNRN6&P=0
Again, good torque 18-24kg.
I haven't had anything to do with Hobbico before, any good? Is the fact that you can buy a replacement gear set worth the effort? or a warning that they will strip, again?

Mick
 

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From what I have read on another forum the Hobico Servo is a Hitec clone. The specs are the same and I think someone wrote that the gear sets are compatible between the two. Not sure which way I would go but either of those have the specs to do the job mate.

Also in regards to the replacement gears, I wouldn't bother with a servo that didn't have replacement gears available. Eventually the gears will develop slop and will need replacing even in the best of the best servos although Hitecs titanium gears will last hell of a long time.

Also do you think that the included servo horn will do the job? Remember that the one that had came in your truck has a Futaba type horn and the Hitec one is different.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Need steering setup help

So I have fitted my replacement steering servo. Went with the Hitec 7955TG, nothing like overkill :cool:

What is the best way to centre the steering? There is a threaded turnbuckle that connects the servo horn to the servo saver, which at first go seems to be the best; however, adusting from there results in the servo hitting its max travel and making a straining noise. The servo horn is on at the most mid-point that I can get it, and the servo is programmable, but I dont have the bits to do that.
If I adjust the turnbuckle so the servo doesn't hit max travel then I need HEAPS of trim to go straight.

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Am I missing something?
 

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If I adjust the turnbuckle so the servo doesn't hit max travel then I need HEAPS of trim to go straight.

Am I missing something?
Usually what I do:
1. turn everything on - to make sure the servo is centred
2. make sure steering trim is set to zero
3. remove the servo horn from the servo - keeping the horn and turnbuckle attached to each other
4. align the wheels as straight as possible by eye
5. keeping the wheels straight, adjust the turnbuckle so that everything's perpendicular to everything else (like it looks in your pic), ie adjust the turnbuckle so that it is such a length that the servo horn is perpendicular to the servo.
6. Put the servo horn back onto the servo.
6. long run on flat surface and adjust with the steering trim.

I haven't had a problem with endpoints yet.

If it's all working well, and the servo end point isn't an issue, and the only thing annoying you is the amount of trim you need to get it going straight..then you could turn everything on, put the trim back to zero on the radio, and then take off servo horn, align the wheels as straight as you can, and then put the servo horn back onto the servo. Hopefully then you won't have to trim as much.

I hope I'm not missing anything lol.
 

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Hey Mick,
Hows the Truggy going? Hoping its all running well.
Done any work on your Truggy lately?

Anyway, Hope you still having as much fun as the day you got it!!!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Dam work keeps getting in the way of taking it out for a run.
Doing alot of inter-state work at the moment and when I am home its cold/wet, so I haven't had it out for a while.
I got the steering sorted out, and runs nice and straight without any steering trim.

I picked up some spares and accessories for it when I was in Sydney, from RC Hobbies.
Got a better air filter, and a outerwears too, also got some better tools. Just need to get it out and run it!
 

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I picked up some spares and accessories for it when I was in Sydney, from RC Hobbies.
Got a better air filter, and a outerwears too, also got some better tools. Just need to get it out and run it!
What air filter is it? Ive been thinking of getting a new one.
The weather is warming up slowly, so now i will be using mine a bit more. :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
The stock filter was a one piece, the replacement I got is the HPI two piece. That with the outerwears should keep it clean.

How long you had yours? I've found mine to be a pretty tough little truck.
 

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The stock filter was a one piece, the replacement I got is the HPI two piece. That with the outerwears should keep it clean.

How long you had yours? I've found mine to be a pretty tough little truck.
Got it a few days before christmas last year. Early christmas present from the parents (We were going away boxing day and i was taking the truggy away with us, wanted to make sure everything was working before we left).
Yea its pretty tough, until i handed the controls over to my dad..... Had to get parts shipped up to us on our holiday. (Its all part of the fun).

Im gonna have a look at the 2 piece one your talking about, (don't happen to have a link to any site....?)

What about you?
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
The filter is Genuine HPI, direct replacement for the stock one, which they dont make anymore (or so I'm told). I'll get the part number for you tomorrow.

The only thing I've broken so far is the steering servo, everything else has been fine. Not from lack of trying (flying) mind you! Got mine around the same time as you, as my first foray into nitro.
 

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Cool, thanks for that.

Yea well within the first week it was the front drive shaft that got destroyed by my dad (Ill post a pic tomorrow).

Done upgrades, or got any ideas for what you want to do to it...?
 
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