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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am placing an order with Metro Hobby today to get a new rear belt for
my TA04
I am getting the low friction one, and will get the front one as well.
But I thought I might get another part to help absorb the postage
cost, but i dont know what to get, and am after some advice.

Should I get a ball diff for the front? Or a front and rear sway bar kit,
or some springs and tyres, if so, what sort?

do the Tamiya TRF shock kits come with spring sets? As I am thinking
of getting some in the future, and dont want to end out with more
springs than I need...

I dont want to spend a fortune on the car hopup wise, as it would be a
better idea just to buy a better car than hopup this one to a higher
spec, as at least you end out with a second car and its probably
cheaper, so i really just want a few little mods to make it go a bit
better

TIA
 

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the TRF shock kits comes with a set of yellow medium springs and thats it. you will need shock oil to go with.





assuming you have bearings through out the car then I'd go the ball diff
 

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<TABLE cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=0 width="90%" border=0 x:str>
<T>
<TR height=17>
<TD>TAMIYA 53463 TA04 BELT-LOW FRICT(LONG)</TD>
<TD class=xl24 x:num="19.5">$ 19.50</TD></TR></T></TABLE>



<TABLE cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=0 width="90%" border=0 x:str>
<T>
<TR height=17>
<TD>TAMIYA 53464 TA04 BELT LOW-FRICT(SHT)</TD>
<TD class=xl24 x:num="12.5">$ 12.50</TD></TR></T></TABLE>


well... if you've broken 1 belt, you can break more. Always carry spares...






azenis said:
do the Tamiya TRF shock kits come with spring sets? As I am thinking of getting some in the future, and dont want to end out with more
springs than I need...

ahh, more springs the merrier.



<TABLE cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=0 width="90%" border=0 x:str>
<T>
<TR height=17>
<TD class=xl25>T53440</TD>
<TD>TAMIYA 53440 ON ROAD SPRING SET X4 PAIR</TD>
<TD class=xl24 x:num="25">$ 25.00</TD></TR></T></TABLE>


is a good pack to get (get 2set for all round), gives you Red/Yellow/Blue/White springs (1pr each per pack) and that will cover you for 99% of onroad use.



<TABLE cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=0 width="90%" border=0 x:str>
<T>
<TR height=17>
<TD class=xl25></TD>
<TD>TAMIYA 53571 TRF SHOCK SET FLOURINE</TD>
<TD class=xl24 x:num="95">$ 95.00</TD></TR></T></TABLE>(hmm, price has come down! used to be $130!) is very nice but probably overkill for just bashing around. As said above, they come fully assembled set-of-4 with only yellow (medium) springs.


(Yellow is nearly the same as the Gold kit springs.)


Have you got unis? They are a must for the front at the least... all round if you're feeling generous.



<TABLE cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=0 width="90%" border=0 x:str>
<T>
<TR height=17>
<TD class=xl25></TD>
<TD>TAMIYA 53438 TA04 UNIVERSAL SHAFTS X2</TD>
<TD class=xl24 x:num="59">$ 59.00</TD></TR></T></TABLE>


Ball diff isn't all that useful... if putting only 1 I'd use it in the rear. But geardiffs are less maintenance, not much downside apart from non-adjustability. I'd just leave the geardiffs in.



<TABLE cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=0 width="90%" border=0 x:str>
<T>
<TR height=17>
<TD>TAMIYA 53436 TA04 BALL DIFFERENTIAL</TD>
<TD class=xl24 x:num="49">$ 49.00</TD></TR></T></TABLE>



<TABLE cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=0 width="90%" border=0 x:str>
<T>
<TR height=17>
<TD>


(if you get ball diffs, then ya gotta have these too... :( )


TAMIYA 53480 TA04 DELRIN DIFF JOINTS</TD>
<TD class=xl24 x:num="39">$ 39.00</TD></TR></T></TABLE>





These are tuning options... if you like a one-way car.



<TABLE cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=0 width="90%" border=0 x:str>
<T>
<TR height=17>
<TD>
TAMIYA 53450 TA04 CENTER ONE-WAY UNIT</TD>
<TD class=xl24 x:num="69">
$ 69.00</TD></TR></T></TABLE>



<TABLE cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=0 width="90%" border=0 x:str>
<T>
<TR height=17>
<TD>TAMIYA 53411 TA04 FRONT ONE-WAY UNIT</TD>
<TD class=xl24 x:num="95">$ 95.00</TD></TR></T></TABLE>


Toein rears give better straightline stability on high speed long tracks, I use them on all my cars now.



<TABLE cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=0 width="90%" border=0 x:str>
<T>
<TR height=17>
<TD>TAMIYA 53472 TA04 2DEG TOE IN UPRIGHTS</TD>
<TD class=xl24 x:num="19.5">$ 19.50 </TD></TR></T></TABLE>


These improve steering A LOT!!! I like "quick" steering, another of my musthaves...



<TABLE cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=0 width="90%" border=0 x:str>
<T>
<TR height=17>
<TD>TAMIYA 53458 TA04 RACING HUB CARRIER</TD>
<TD class=xl24 x:num="35">$ 35.00</TD></TR></T></TABLE>








This is nice to have if your spur looks wobbly...

<TABLE cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=0 width="90%" border=0 x:str>
<T>
<TR height=17>
<TD>TAMIYA 53452 TA04 ALLOY SPUR HUB</TD>
<TD class=xl24 x:num="39">$ 39.00</TD></TR></T></TABLE>
Nice to have but the stock plastic towers are pretty good too:

<TABLE cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=0 width="90%" border=0 x:str>
<T>
<TR height=17>
<TD class=xl25>T53460</TD>
<TD>TAMIYA 53460 TA04 CARBON S.TOWER (FNT)</TD>
<TD class=xl24 x:num="39">$ 39.00</TD></TR></T></TABLE>

<TABLE cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=0 width="90%" border=0 x:str>
<T>
<TR height=17>
<TD>TAMIYA 53461 TA04 CARBON S.TOWER(REAR)</TD>
<TD class=xl24 x:num="29">$ 29.00</TD></TR></T></TABLE>

Honestly, the BEST VALUE hopup that Metro sells would be:
2x 1pr TakeOff CS27 tyres 24mm $20ea
1x set Schumacher Revlite dish wheels $15



If I ever find nothing to buy there, I'll grab another set of TakeOffs - they're great tyres. $55 for a full set, can't complain. It'll make your car handle better than ANY bolt-on option you can think of.










I dont want to spend a fortune on the car hopup wise, as it would be a
better idea just to buy a better car than hopup this one to a higher
spec, as at least you end out with a second car and its probably
cheaper, so i really just want a few little mods to make it go a bit
better

Precisely! smart man... yeah, don't overcapitalise your ride. Always cheaper to just get a whole new higher-spec car than to hopup a lower-spec kit; Tamiya must be laughing all the way to the bank.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks for the advice, knew i could count on you for some! Everyone
seems to say put a ball diff in the front... didnt know you needed the
extra bits as well?

I dont have unis... one other big dollar part i will just get with my next
kit i think....

will probably change order to get the belts the tyres you recommend
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
what is the advantage of the unis over the dogbones?
Would the take-off tyres come with inserts?
Are those wheels the flat disc looking ones?
 
G

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unis, dont rub when under heavy steering, and they deliver the power more smoothly..



the rims are a dish rims, sorta like plates with rubber..lol..

ball diff in the rear helps with traction as far as i know...



Nismo
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Fair enough, though at $59 they can wait for the next car, but i will get
the wheels an tyres lots of people race with those dish wheels
 
G

·
yes they can wait....

i drive my wheels till they dont go anymore...

then i get new ones...



i got to get unis for the TL01, cause i keep busting dogbones..




Nismo
 

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azenis said:
Would the take-off tyres come with inserts?
Are those wheels the flat disc looking ones?

Yep the Schuey Revlites are disc "dish" wheels. I like them because they are softer than others... some hard/stiff ones will shatter on impact, but you can bash the Schueys and they still come back for more. They also come back into shape 95% of the time, don't stay deformed & wobbly. (haha, we try...)


Revlites are nylon & will survive acetone too. And you can dye them if you like.





TakeOff... ya notice I said 2x 1pr ...??!



Reason is, the 1pr packs come with inserts @ $20. They are blue "medium" molded inserts, totally usable.


You can also buy 2pr packs that are tyres only @ ~$35. They don't have inserts... inserts are $7/pr extra. So yeah, do the sums.


Sorex tyres are not much dearer "per pair" but they never come with inserts.
 

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azenis said:
what is the advantage of the unis over the dogbones?

Dogbones work fine when your wheels are pointing straight, but at extreme angles they will catch & clunk. Unis transmit the drive cleanly without jerks... and when you're cornering at the limit, jerking is what you don't want.


It is worthwhile getting unis even on the basic models, especially for the front.


Can probably find them for little less say ~$50 elsewhere, but do remember Tamiya's latest unis are fully rebuildable - you can buy each bit separately for when they wear out or get FUBAR'd in a smack.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Yup I spoke to Peter @ Metro and I am getting the 2 pairs with inserts
:)

Should be here tomorrow

Was going to get a body but didnt, will have to wait till the bank
balance improves unfortunately...

Besides I dont want an alfa or mazda or stratus body, why cant they
make good bodies that look like some sort of car you would actually
WANT to drive?? :( :(
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
zoomer said:
Can probably find them for little less say ~$50
elsewhere, but do remember Tamiya's latest unis are fully rebuildable
- you can buy each bit separately for when they wear out or get
FUBAR'd in a smack.
Might try some of the $12pr ones at rcmart :)
 

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azenis said:
And what is the racing hub carrier?

Y'know how you can ride a bike forwards and can take your hands off the handlebars?? But when you try ride it backwards you can't?? See the bike part that the steering turns thru... its leaning back?? That is the work of "Castor".


The plane that your steering swivels on, its not perpendicular to the ground. It is also leaning back like the bike.


Stock TA04 hubs have 8deg of castor I think... makes it very stable.


The racing hub carrier set (aka TRF414 hubs):


1) gives you less castor, about 4 deg I think. = livelier steering


2) new top link... it now goes all the way to the kingpin


3) an extra diagonal "torquerod" link going from hub to the steering posts. (Some don't like using this, but it works nice for me.)
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Yes i know all about castor, done a castor mod on my wrx ;)

Sounds like a good mod to do :) Though I might leave that for the
TRF415 I will get one day :D
 

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azenis said:
Might try some of the $12pr ones at rcmart :)

Don't forget AUD vs USD...



They even got some for US$10!!


GPM (#TA4238S) Steel F/R Uni. Swing Shaft 38mm For TL01/TA04





but... they're not "CVD" (constant velocity) types like these ones:


JET (#TA-02) Heavy Duty Uni. Shaft For TA01, TL-01, TB-01.





These run smoother. Not sure if either are "rebuildable" though.


But for US$10, they're perfect for a hack car.


Used to be able to buy 3rd-party bits here, but lately haven't seen them locally lately. Used to pay A$25-30 for steel CVDs for TA03, which lasted much longer than the genuine $60 Tamiya (then unrebuildable) ones.
 

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azenis said:
Besides I dont want an alfa or mazda or stratus body, why cant they make good bodies that look like some sort of car you would actually
WANT to drive?? :( :(

'cos


1) racing rules say must be a 4-door touring car shell


2) the funny ones usually don't handle too well; aerodynamics don't scale down well - just ask the airplane folks.


But there's quite a good range at Metro, they seem to have dropped their Proline prices a little since xmas (swear I paid a few bux more each then I last boughta swag then).


What did you have in mind??


They got the Lambos, the FX Ferrari, Jag etc. I'm still tossing at a paint design for the RSX Acura and maybe might paintup a 350Z too.


The Mazda6 handles sweet, a bit slow when I first tried with the full wing. Gotta hack it down by 25-40% to regain the speed, doesn't lose too much downforce. Looks heaps better than a Stratus (ugH), at least we know what the 1:1 is in Oz. Might go paintup another one.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
There is no rules that i am aware of in the club that i race with, people
race with 2 door bodies like the TVR etc as well :)

The guy said that the alfa works really well infact better than the GT40
that I really wanted :( :(
 

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azenis said:
Yes i know all about castor, done a castor mod on my wrx ;)

Not by conscious choice but I did that to our 1:1 too, with extra camber plus gave it a bit of toe-out.


Must be the only large FWD family wagon that can lift-off oversteer...





Sounds like a good mod to do :) Though I might leave that for the
TRF415 I will get one day :D

Don't have to.



Comes std on the TA04R & TRFs, came on the 414Ms. Same carriers appear on TBe3 & 415 but they don't give you the torquerod.


To retrofit the torquerods, just buy a TL01 turnbuckle steering rod kit + add 4x 3mm ballstuds.
 
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