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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
What would you buy out of the following, if you wanted a serious race car??





Tamiya TA04-TRF


Tamiya TRF415


Schumacher Mi2


Corally Assasin


XrayEVO2


Yokomo MR4-TC SD SSG


HPI whatever model (I dont know)


Team Associated TC3 (?)





Realisticly, taking the $ factor into consideration, but not necessarily picking one car because it is cheapest, or another cos it is the dearest...Edited by: azenis
 

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TA04-TRF, don't think they make them anymore. It was a limited edition run and all shops would be sold out by now. Latest special has been TA04R-Tuned.


TRF415 is a very nice car, was surrounded by them at the track today - just arrived, everybody built theirs in the past week. (Lucky I brought along a trinity of EvoIIIs and evened the numbers, haha) The boys are only just starting to figure out how to tune the 415s.


(nb 415 is nothing like a TA04, even a 414 is fancier than a TA04 - totally different concepts. Even the fanciest TA04 is only like a Tickford Ford... a hotted up Taxi!
)


Mi2 is a nice car, LHS sells them cheap good value. Slightly "eccentric" British engineering but its a nice evolution for the marque. The original Mission is still available on sale too, its even better value now.


Xrays not as popular in Melb as in Sydney, just not many fans here.


Yok SD SSG???! haha, you're 2 generations behind!! Then came the SD Black, and now the SD CGM... Yok loves issuing "new" kits every 2 weeks and all their diehard fans just gotta have the latest & laugh at those who don't (LOL). Not many Yok fans in Melb... maybe more in Adelaide.


HPI plow4... err, we've been burnt too bad for supply/support. Don't care whatever they make, even if its the best car in the world I think there's many who won't go near that brand anymore.


Assassin is a very nice looking car, excellent machining work. But its far from cheap and best suits a real Corally fan... its like a Maserati - only some love them enough to own one.


TC3 is the most ancient hammer out there; its got many known issues (some can be solved with 3rd party hopups), but even an old hammer is still deadly.





You missed:-


Losi XXX-whatever...



TechRacing MY02


Alex Barracuda R2, R3


that shaftdrive TRF Tamiya named after what's-his-name...
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
So is the consensus these days that shaft drive is better than belt?

I am thinking of saving up for one of these cars, as you say Zoomer
the TA04 is a hotted up taxi
but I am not sure what to get.
Having said that though, by the time i have the spondoolas saved up
there will probably be something better out...
 

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do NOT get hpi pro 4...it is built in a way to be as light as possible...it is very fragile...its one way breaks alomost after every 5 batteries and it can break all together very easy and there are no spare parts...hpi screwed badly...


tc3 is quite good but also a bit fragile and ugly as hell...but here in croatia it can be bought quite cheap


tamiya is ok and i would recomend shaft drive


get tb01 evo1 or evo2...they can be found very cheap 2nd hand or even new,there are plenty spare parts


do NOT get Surikarn...it is not faster than evo1 and 2 and costs 2x,3x more and parts cost 2x,3x more


my friend has it and it only looks nice ...and dont get me wrong it is a fast car but it doesnt worth the money...ball difss are gettin loose every little.


I wrote this from my experience in Croatian champinoship 1:10 electric touring car.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
TA04-S
I bought it thinking I would hop it up, but now i think i will buy a higher
spec car instead as it is cheaper than doing the whole thing (sort of)
and at least you end out with 2 cars instead of one
 

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strah said:
do NOT get Surikarn...it is not faster than evo1 and 2 and costs 2x,3x more and parts cost 2x,3x more


my friend has it and it only looks nice ...and dont get me wrong it is a fast car but it doesnt worth the money...ball diffs are gettin loose every little.

haha, sounds like a lot of your hassles might be "user error".



EvoI/II is a good VERY SOLIDLY BUILTcar, but it is also heavy (overengineered)and most ppl say its very hard to tune its handling.Its a 'neutral' handler whatever you do to it.


When EvoIII came out it was a revelation - its a car designed *just* for electric on-road racing, the driveline parts are all-new & not overengineered. An EvoIII will be just on racing's minimum legal weight;the Surikarn could be 50g less.


Although Tamiyas are not cheap cars, here the parts are reasonably priced & easily obtainable compared to other brands. (If you look at the yen prices on the packtag the price is about the same for equivalent eI/II and eIII bits... I would question the discrepancy.)


However EvoI/II have a lot of unique parts that no other car uses (price higher due to lower volumes sold??) whereas the EvoIII parts are mostly TA04 or TB02... so Tamiya ain't gunna discontinue EvoIII bits anytime too soon.





I find EvoIII is very tunable... but that means its also very easy to stuff up. Ran a 'new' e3SL last week and it was a shocker - totally tailly, kept doing donuts. But we changed the tyres and lowered the rear rideheight and it became planted, just really minor changes makes a huge difference. You can tune it for most conditions & to suit your driving preference.


As for diffs unscrewing... make sure you've cleaned & greased the tiny thrust bearing! If it runs dry or gets filled with dirt, it will grab the screw and undo it.


No problems with durability here. We had the AUSMICRO.com guys over at the track all-day yesterday, I brought along 2 Mini M03s and 3 TBe3s (1 setup as a PVC drifter!). These are guys that ranged from au-fait to total newbies at 1/10 but we suffered no casualties at all; didn't have to do any repairingafterwards.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Zoomer
I forgot to include the EVOIII in my list...
what would you pick the EVOIII or 415?
I think I would probably go the 415 or Mi2 if I was to buy today... but i
dont know...
 

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well i can setup very well my evo2...it can oversteer or understeer and my friends surikarn always oversteer(is that when yr ass starts to slide?)


i am getting parts from austria and there are always parts for evo1 and 2 but u alwasy have to order parts for suikarn...


and evo2 can also use ta04 parts...i am using some...not sure what are they called...but the part in front wheels where bearings goes in and then the wheel...turning part...it fits from ta04


and evo3 is superb car compared to price but surikarn is overrated...at least thats my opinion


in austria evo3 costs around 450$ and surikarn costs about 700$


the diffs are new clean but still unscrewing and u have to tighten them very hard in order to make them not slipping


i bought complete set ball diff for tg10...it is also for evo2 and tighened it just a bit and it works much better than surikarns


ooo yes and it cost me 45$ complete set and diff for surikarn costs about 110$
 

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azenis said:
I bought it thinking I would hop it up, but now i think i will buy a higher
spec car instead as it is cheaper than doing the whole thing (sort of)
and at least you end out with 2 cars instead of one

Having multiple cars of the same chassis is the best... you can propogate your favourite settings to all your cars.


If you break your car on raceday just chuck that into your boot and bring out anothershiny clean one which laps just as quick-- haha, it really out-mentals your race buddies.



And if you break your 2nd car... you can raid the other for spare bits to fix it at the track, easier than carry tons of spares.





What hopups are you after btw?


I used to run TA04 family (but find the EvoIII suits my driving style better), had the whole heap- TA04, TA04PRO, TA04R, TA04S etc ... but its time to move some on; sold the TA04S recently.


If you're interested,there's my backup TA04 that I've just pulled radio out of. Itsbeen max hopped up past 04R specs - its got
<UL>
<LI>graphite 04R tub</LI>
<LI>carbon upper deck</LI>
<LI>titanium turnbuckles</LI>
<LI>carbon shock towers F&R</LI>
<LI>heatsink finned motor plate</LI>
<LI>Tamiya universals front</LI>
<LI>Tamiya gold alloy shocks</LI>
<LI>sway bars</LI>
<LI>low-friction belts</LI>
<LI>full bearings</LI>
<LI>hard suspension arms</LI>
<LI>toe-in rear blocks</LI>
<LI>Racing front suspension set</LI>
<LI>option reinforced rear gearbox with 2 bearing beltguides</LI>
<LI>2x ball diffs with lightweight delrin outdrives </LI>[/list]


Hmm! not much ELSE that can be optioned-up on that car...
christ, don't even wanna know how much I've spent on that beast.


Cleaned & fully rebuilt that at xmas, ran a pack at the track to make sure it still ran sweet and its been sitting ever since. I needed itsradiogear elsewhere last week so I pulled it out.


Make an offer if you're interested. Why not just tally up the price on all the option bits & what they're worth to you and let me know? Open to reasonable offers.
 

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strah said:
well i can setup very well my evo2...it can oversteer or understeer and my friends surikarn always oversteer(is that when yr ass starts to slide?)

Still sounds like only a setup problem...!


You really don't want to over/understeer, you want it to take the exact racing line. Anything different to that means you're off the racing line... ideally your car will do exactly what you want and you can do a lap with your eyes closed. You shouldn't be fighting the car...


i am getting parts from austria and there are always parts for evo1 and 2 but u alwasy have to order parts for suikarn...

So THAT'S where all the world's eI/II bits have gone to...!!






the diffs are new clean but still unscrewing and u have to tighten them very hard in order to make them not slipping

Send it to me and I'll fix it good.



Mine can be super-loose but they don't slip. They are buttery-smooth.


As said before, you have to keep the thrust bearing clean & well-greased. Sometimes also you need to degrease or replace the 2mm locknut.





diff for surikarn costs about 110$

You can't buy a diff kit for EvoIII, it don't exist - Tamiya don't sell it...
??


(I have to build mine out of EvoIII spareparts + a TA04 diff kit.)
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
zoomer said:
Make an offer if you're interested. Why not just
tally up the price on all the option bits & what they're worth to you and
let me know? Open to reasonable offers.
</font>
That is tempting.... roughly what price are you looking for ??
Though I wanted to get away from the Tickford Ford ;) I can see the
point of having 2 of the same chassis type...
 

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azenis said:
Zoomer
I forgot to include the EVOIII in my list...
what would you pick the EVOIII or 415?
I think I would probably go the 415 or Mi2 if I was to buy today... but i
dont know...

Mi2 is good value (<$600?) and would be perfect if you lived next to Metro.
But if you need constant spares backup it might be dodgy... the serious racers buy 2 kits, 1 just for spares.


No, just as well you didn't put EvoIII on list. I think Tamiya has already stopped production of them, there hasn't been any new stocks of kits in shops for a long time now.


Methink if something works well, stick to it. For me, EvoIII is "it" now(got into them for TCS) but2 yrs ago the TA04 was worked good for me.


415 is blue blue blue... need SHADES to work on it.
Looks nice new, not sure how it'll look later on. (TBe3SL looks pretty daggy after the red wears off)


Not very tempted at 415 quite yet; am still not convinced that it can do a significantly better job than an EvoIII or 414.


(Don't ever forget Tamiya is in the biz to Make Money, and all they really want to do is to Sell you More Cars!!
)


A well-driven & properly setup TA04 is still devastating on the track; last year's TCS GT1 was a tight fight between an EvoIIISL and a TA04R... was 1 final won each and in the 3rd round, the race was decided by just 1 driver's mistake.
 

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if they are anything like the mission it replaces then the car is a tank.





no problems with my evo 3 now that i replaced the drive shaft with the new lightwieght driveshaft. shafts are good in the sence that there isn't as much maintenence required like belt drive cars. my mate has a stack of spare belts for his ta04. where as i don't have a spare shaft for the evo.. should probably pick one up
 

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azenis said:
so the Mi2 fragile?

Doesn't look asoverbuilt as Mission butwouldn't call Mi2 fragile. Its mainly to do with bits that go 'ping' flying off and disappearing lost at the track, or some kits have been missing parts or parts badly made etc. (Moldings are nowhere as good as Tamiya... but then, few else are.)


Schuey probably needs to do more work on their QC... or is that a British trait? Like, the Brits don't have much of a motor industry anymore yet30 yrs ago they were the world leaders.
 

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jiggen5354 said:
no problems with my evo 3 now that i replaced the drive shaft with the new lightwieght driveshaft. shafts are good in the sence that there isn't as much maintenence required like belt drive cars. my mate has a stack of spare belts for his ta04. where as i don't have a spare shaft for the evo.. should probably pick one up

nah, you'll never wear the shaft out.
Spares are only for when the shaft gets scratched too ugly.


I'm running the TechRacing 3-piece shaft (length is adjustable) in one of the SLs, drivetrain spins very smoothly.


The other SL runs the red shaft which is obviously 2mm too short in front. One guy has reported the bevel pinion falling off the shaft & losing drive but I've never experienced that myself. The long shaft would certainly cure that.





415 will have usual belt issues... too tight and there's drag. Too loose and it flops around, rear one will flay the hingepin mount that it passes over.
 
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