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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I thought I would do a bit of a thread of my experience with building the X7.

I have worked on it during the day ( not flat out) but taking my time and enjoying the experience.

I have actually completed the build except for the electronics, I have even programmed my radio as much as I can.

I have a stack of pics and will get them up during the day tomorrow, so stay tuned.

A special thanks to David Minch and to those that have given me advice etc.

Thanks in advance,

Cheers Dave.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
O.k. here are a couple of pics of what I am using with my build and also the bits and pieces included with the kit.

I have purchased the high power combo kit.




















Cheers Dave.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I have a few items here I will be using with the build.





Cheers Dave.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I followed the manual and it made for easy reading and understanding.





As the bearing blocks were already made up, I wanted to be sure they were all loctited and I took all screws out etc and I only found that a couple of screws were not done with loctite as per the pictures above.

Cheers Dave.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Now onto the mainframe.

I didn't find my carbon bit edges to be sharp, but I still sanded them back a little more for that smooth feeling.

I will also down the track ( before it is flown ) use some of that fuel tank surround to edges and holes where wires are ran through. I doub't this is essential, but as I have lost a heli in the past due to stuff shorting out, I am not taking any chances.











Enjoy,

Cheers Dave.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Now the following is the only issue I had with the build and I suppose if you look at it, it is not really an issue.





The issue I had is with the countersunk screw going through the carbon plate and screwing into the frame support.

I found that when I went to tighten the countersunk screw up, the bottom of the countersunk part of the screw came up against the frame support block and did not allow the frame support block to be pulled tight by the screw.

I got out a small countersink bit and countersunk the side of the frame support block deep enough, so that it allowed it to be tightened properly against the carbon plate.

Cheers Dave.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·




The above pics are of the mainframe assembly and the skid set, nothing too technical here and all the bits fitted very nicely.

Cheers Dave.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Next I worked on the boom and tail box parts of the heli.

The TT was simple to make up and having the TT ends pinned ( by bolt and washer) gives a piece of mind that it will not come off.

As per the manual I marked the TT with the correct spacings for the bearing. I made sure also to apply some lunricant to the TT bearing holders to help them slip into the boom more easily. I found this to be a rather tight fit ( but probably necessary), make sure you hold on tight, as slippage at this stage makes for loss of skin.

You could also mark and or position the tail push rod guides in place on the boom and tighten them a little to help hold them there, but do not tighten up completely as you will need to insert the pushrod later.

I also made up the tail box end and stripped it to check for threadlock on any screws, but it was nicely loctited at the beginning when built.

I fitted the tail box to the boom, tail pitch slider, tail blade grips and vertical fin aswell.

I fitted the boom to the frame and finally got an idea of the X7's size.

What I had done was put a screw into the top of the tail boom area( countersunk screw) and may have used one that was a little long as it caught on the boom as you inserted it into the frame.

I also fitted the horizontal fin to its mounts and tightened them up only enough to hold it in place. You will need to move this around later as you make up the boom supports to the correct length.

I will also add that the tail pitch slider and the tail blade grips have NO slop or play and once connected as will be shown later, makes for a really free tail.











Enjoy,

Cheers Dave.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
The manual also says to make sure that the one-way bearing roller thingy's are coated evenly and to be sure to do it with a stick as a tool, to only coat where necessary.

I pulled the main gear assembly apart to check the bearings and they were well greased up, so back together it went.

I fitted the main gear, shaft collar in place and dropped the mainshaft in place and it slid down nicely and no force was necessary to get it through the 3 bearing blocks.

At this point it makes a note of checking the mesh of the crown gear and by this you can use some shims which are provided to get the necessary backlash.

Now that this was done you can tighten up the solid main shaft collar and be sure to pull up on the main shaft ( to make it all nice and snug), so that there is no free play up and down. No grub screws holding this shaft collar in place.

I also grabbed out the swash and put that on aswell.

Now seeing it coming along I just had to assemble the rest of the head and fit that at this stage aswell.

The head doesn't come assembled, so you have to pack the thrust bearings and make sure of getting them around the right way and then follow the manual to assemble it in the correct manner, with washers and shims if necessary and so on.

I made up the ball links and rods going from the blade grips to the swash. Now the threaded rod for these are a turnbuckle and you wont need to adjust the ball links by removing them, instead you can use a small tool to put in the hole of the turnbuckle and adjust that to get you blades in track etc.

I reckon though that you need to get these links pretty close anyway from the beginning.











Enjoy,

Cheers Dave.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·




The above two pics are of the lower motor main shaft support bearing block( if I can call it that) and a number of the guys flying for gaui are not using it and it doesn't seem to be an issue( this info from our good mate Vas).

The other pic is of a frame support with adjustment holes ( length wise) for the lower bearing mount to adjust as needed to suit the motor.

As I did not take more close up pics of the motor mount etc, I will do this in the next couple of days and add them to here.

Enjoy,

Cheers Dave.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I will now show the tail push rod, guides, red end blingy bits and assembled head and boom supports.









As you can see from the above pics the tail push rod guides are positioned on the boom at specific spots as per the manual. The tail push rod it self is easy to make up and came with threaded rod ( if you will in the end of the carbon rod. You just need to slide the red bling bits on from one end and fit the ball link, slide this through the tail push rod guides and do the same with the other end of the push rod. i would say that once you have the correct length of this you can glue the red bling bits in place. You can tighten up the push rod guides once they aligned straight to the boom and by doing this the sleeves are clamped tight and allows for the push rod a nice and smooth path of travel

Now with making the boom supports up, it wasn't too hard. You will need some araldite type of two part glue. I scuffed the ends of the carbon support rods ( be careful of the carbon dust ) and applied the glue to both ends of the rod and also into the ends that go on the carbon rod supports and fitted them onto the carbon rod ( being careful not to let the glue drip where it shouldn't drip ) and I screwed the boom supports into place and did this to both sides, while making sure that they come together nicely and then fastened the horizontal fin mounting bracket. I made sure that I wiped off any excess glue.

The head was shown in a previous post but is here again to show the links fitted and the blades mounted with blade spacers and the two bolts securing the head onto the main shaft. I have used the thinner blade spacers provided.

One thing I was surprised to see was the plastic anti rotation bracket, even the X5 has a metal one fitted( maybe this is a sacrificial part).

Enjoy,

Cheers Dave.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I have fitted some of the electronics I have so far for the build and have chosen these spots by having a bit of a look at what others are doing and also referring to the manual.





You will also notice that there is more than an ample amount of room to run wiring through the frame and there are little slots in the frame to cable tie wiring back.

I have not yet completed the wiring and hence not done the heat shrinked wrapped wiring where it will be cable tied to the frames.



Enjoy,

Cheers Dave.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
The following post will be a bit of a fun one.

Here is a couple of pics of the X7, X5 and X2 for size comparison.







Also a pic of the canopy cover which came with the kit.



Enjoy,

Cheers Dave.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Well, I have spent some more time on the X7 today.

I have moved the s-bus receiver to the top of the frame and to the rear of it.

I have also connected up the servos and programmed my radio and the beast-x, in readiness for when I get the rest of the gear to get it going. It was great having the cyclic servo mounts moveable, as I was able to get them spot on.

I have the balls around 19mm out ( 3rd hole out with the supplied servo horns) and this enables the beast -x unit to be in the appropriate light colour for it pitch range.

I have ran all wires through the frame and have covered them with heatshrink, as this will both protect the wires where they wrap around the edges of the carbon frames and also it helps to just cover up the wires and makes it look neat.

I will take a couple of pics of what I have done in the next couple of days and get them up here.

Cheers Dave.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Some pics of the wiring.











I tried to take my time with the placement of wiring and a couple of them took me a couple of go's, but I think it's all good now and it's great how once it's done, the heli almost looks bare and naked.

When using the heatshrink, I did remove the plugs from each set of wires ran and heatshrinked it up and then back on with the plugs.

I still have the speedy and motor to fit and that looks like it will be looking nice and clean aswell.

I did use the mounting of the s-bus wires as seen on another forum ( thanks for that idea mate ).

I will also be using some hot glue on all plugs going into the receiver and the s-bus unit, once everything is connected up.

Enjoy,

Cheers Dave.
 

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Nice Helli, brilliant build thread! Looks like you know about precision building. Good work Dave, good to see a pro builder in action.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Nice Helli, brilliant build thread! Looks like you know about precision building. Good work Dave, good to see a pro builder in action.
Thanks mate, I thoroughly enjoyed the build and I believe that if you pay that attention to detail at this stage and spend the time to do things right, it will be so much better down the track and that goes for any hobby.

Cheers Dave.
 

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hey dave, just out of curiousity, have the torque gears got any slop in them as in like a slightly loose mesh? IE, hold the main gear and turn the tail back n forth, does it have any slop?

i have realised that the aligns have a darn big amount of slop in the torque gears but my mates x5 has nothing but then my other mates x5 does.....

my g4 doesnt but then again that runs helical cut gears
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
hey dave, just out of curiousity, have the torque gears got any slop in them as in like a slightly loose mesh? IE, hold the main gear and turn the tail back n forth, does it have any slop?

i have realised that the aligns have a darn big amount of slop in the torque gears but my mates x5 has nothing but then my other mates x5 does.....

my g4 doesnt but then again that runs helical cut gears
The TT gears at the back of the frame has some backlash and the same with the tail box on the X7 and the X5 the same aswell.

The backlash on then rear of both helis is adjustable when fitting the boom, I suppose like when adjusting mes between a main gear and a motor pinion.

Cheers Dave.
 
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