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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey everyone, after some help, my apologies if this is the wrong section.

My younger cousin (around the 12yo mark) is looking to get his first RC car soon, an on-road electric 1/10 and has a budget of around $300-$400 AUD, I am *trying* to do as much research as I can for him so he doesn't get ripped off but mainly so he has a nice solid, reliable, good quality car to get him started. I had a couple Nitro cars a while back but never got too involved and now am completely lost and overwhelmed and have no idea where to start, especially when it comes to electric.

Please correct me if I am wrong but I have found that some good brands are Team Losi, Team associated, Traxxas, HPI, Tamiya, XRay, -I am guessing as with anything, the brand is not all there is to it.

What are some quality cars and or parts that I should be keeping my eyes on? What should I be keeping away from?
Would it be a good idea to go straight to brushless motors? or are they unnecessary and expensive for the beginner?
I was thinking of a RTR kit as he is starting from scratch and will need everything to get him up and running.

I understand these would be some loaded questions and probably asked a lot but I would really appreciate any info and guidance that could at the very least help me get my bearings.

Thanks.
 

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Hey everyone, after some help, my apologies if this is the wrong section.

My younger cousin (around the 12yo mark) is looking to get his first RC car soon, an on-road electric 1/10 and has a budget of around $300-$400 AUD, I am *trying* to do as much research as I can for him so he doesn't get ripped off but mainly so he has a nice solid, reliable, good quality car to get him started. I had a couple Nitro cars a while back but never got too involved and now am completely lost and overwhelmed and have no idea where to start, especially when it comes to electric.

Please correct me if I am wrong but I have found that some good brands are Team Losi, Team associated, Traxxas, HPI, Tamiya, XRay, -I am guessing as with anything, the brand is not all there is to it.

What are some quality cars and or parts that I should be keeping my eyes on? What should I be keeping away from?
Would it be a good idea to go straight to brushless motors? or are they unnecessary and expensive for the beginner?
I was thinking of a RTR kit as he is starting from scratch and will need everything to get him up and running.

I understand these would be some loaded questions and probably asked a lot but I would really appreciate any info and guidance that could at the very least help me get my bearings.

Thanks.
Generally speaking, that budget you have will be able to get you locally most reputable RTR cars from Tamiya, HPI, Kyosho, Thunder Tiger, Team Magic, GV, Associated etc, along with a couple of Ni-mh batteries and a simple fast charger. for that kind of price, most of the models will be brushed but there may be some cheaper brushless cars in that price range.

Generally, the HSP's and similar no name cars are not really a good idea if it's your first car. The cars themselves are tough but the electrics are not really good unless if they use hobbywing ESC's and flysky 2.4g radios. Also, stay away from the HPI E10 as they are a very plasticky car and not particularly well made. The Sprint 2 is a far better model.

If it is his first car then he can always start with a brushed motor and ESC set up so he doesn't get overwhelmed with the speed of brushless gear immediately until he is comfortable with the car.

The RTR models I would recommend is HPI Sprint 2, Tamiya TT01, GV-E, Kyosho Fazer or TF5, Associated TC4, Thunder Tiger Sparrowhawk, Team Magic E4 (or E4D as a drift car). If you don't mind building the car then you can add the Tamiya TA05 & TA06, TB03, DF03RA and XV01 into the mix.

Best to have a look at your local hobby shops as you will need to see what they stock in case you need spare parts for what you buy in a big hurry. Other times you can order online and wait a bit if you're in no hurry. Whereabouts are you located?
 

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Plus 1 for the Sprint2, they are a good reliable model with good support within Australia

Being a belt driven model, they are smooth to operate, the 15t brushed motor is quite fast and the WP radio box, servo and ESC mean a lot less chance of damage if the car gets a splash...I still would not recommend driving it deliberately through puddles though....WP is more water resistant than water proof

They come with a 2.4g radio system, so no interference, and you can usually work a deal with a Battery and charger plus the model for around the $400 price tag
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
Thanks for the replies guys, much appreciated.

Most likely go with the Sprint 2, that's the sport version, right? not the flux?

I am in Melbourne (western s'burbs), had a couple of hobby shops near by but they have since closed up shop. might have to order online anyway..

Also, with the batteries, you recommended Ni-Mh batteries instead of LiPo's, is that due to cost only? get Ni-Mh now and later on upgrade to LiPo's, true? are Ni-Mh better than Ni-Cad?

Thanks again.
 

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Lipos are for use with a brushless ESC (though not exclusively) as a brushless ESC has a low voltage cut off to protect the battery from over draining (lipos don't like to be drained completely, they will explode)
You can run Lipos with a brushed setup but you will need to add a low voltage cut off device. This is not a learner type of setup.


Ni-MH are far superior to nicad, nicads are pretty poor batteries and ultra old technology compared to Ni-MH.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
hrmm, well if we end up getting the Sprint 2, it seems the ESC that comes with it has LiPo Safe cutoff included: "Waterproof SP-15WP electronic speed control with LiPo safety cut-off"
Is there a performance increase when using LiPo's?


On the point of the explosive nature of Lipo's, I have 3 or 4 of them downstairs (in one of those Lipo safety bags) they have been sitting in there for at least 4 years, you're saying I should be lucky they never exploded or caught fire?..oops..Seeing as they are done for, what is the best method of disposal?
 

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The latest sprint 2's come with a version of the SC15 which includes lipo cutoff. lipo would be the best if budget allows but if not nimh is the next best thing.

if you are in western Melbourne you still have a few choices. There is a place in Military Rd Avondale heights which I've seen Sprint 2 RTR's in the past when I last went, otherwise there is a place in Keilor Park off Fullerton rd in the shopping strip. Give these 2 guys a try.
 

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As long as the Lipo's were storage charged they should be ok. Not sure about 4 years though.
Do they look ok? Not puffy at all?
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 · (Edited)
if you are in western Melbourne you still have a few choices. There is a place in Military Rd Avondale heights which I've seen Sprint 2 RTR's in the past when I last went, otherwise there is a place in Keilor Park off Fullerton rd in the shopping strip. Give these 2 guys a try.
Awesome, ill definitely suss em out! thanks


As long as the Lipo's were storage charged they should be ok. Not sure about 4 years though.
Do they look ok? Not puffy at all?
Yeah they actually look fine, is there a way my charger could tell me? i have a Venom Pro charger..is it a matter of just seeing if they charge or not?

I also have a few Ni-Mh batts down there too, but they would be surely dead by now true? they need to be kept topped up like lead acid batteries if i'm not mistaken
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
The RTR models I would recommend is HPI Sprint 2, Tamiya TT01, GV-E, Kyosho Fazer or TF5, Associated TC4, Thunder Tiger Sparrowhawk, Team Magic E4 (or E4D as a drift car). If you don't mind building the car then you can add the Tamiya TA05 & TA06, TB03, DF03RA and XV01 into the mix.
I'm still going through each of the models that you mentioned, trying to find the time, which is why I am asking a lot of question I could probably find on my own, my apologies.
The TT01 seems like a well established and popular chassis, But I am finding the TT01-E version (E for Enhanced not Electric as I first thought) around, it has a few upgraded parts, is this a change for the better or should I still look for the normal TT01 (if still available)?

The Associated TC4 seems like an expensive model? I can't find a RTR version and the kit is around $200 with no motor,elec.,radio etc..
 

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I'm still going through each of the models that you mentioned, trying to find the time, which is why I am asking a lot of question I could probably find on my own, my apologies.
The TT01 seems like a well established and popular chassis, But I am finding the TT01-E version (E for Enhanced not Electric as I first thought) around, it has a few upgraded parts, is this a change for the better or should I still look for the normal TT01 (if still available)?

The Associated TC4 seems like an expensive model? I can't find a RTR version and the kit is around $200 with no motor,elec.,radio etc..
The TT01E is the 1 to go for if you are going to buy the TT01 as it has a few upgrades over the standard TT01 such as an upper deck standard and a better steering system. However many Tamiya RTR XB cars are still based on the TT01 instead of the TT01E due to cost. The best to go for is the TT01E drift as it has oil shocks, alloy motor mount and possibly the alloy prop shaft also and a few other options.

the TC4 is not cheap, along with the sprint 2 but you get what you pay for. Go for Lipos and a suitable charger if you can afford to but if not then Nimh is still good enough for bashing and non-racing applications.
 

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Kits have moved on to TT02 now. No huge benefits, just mirrored layout.

Afaik all of the XB/RTRs never come with ballbearings so if you do buy one
you should consider stripping chassis down to add full bearings before running.

Or not too hard to buy a kit & build it yourself too.
 
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