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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
These are my essential chemicals for working on my savage.







They all really explain themselves, the metho, co cleaner and
brakeclean are all for cleaning . Loctite 401 is a super CA glue, ultra
tuff ! and the loctite 243 is just a mediumedium thread lock. Inox is
magic spray
, the acetone is for gunk and CA removal ( see tyre removal tech ) and the corona helps me forget the cost of owning a Savage






What other chemicals would you guys rate as essential and why ?
 

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Yep, pretty much the same here:-

  1. <LI>motor spray or electrical contact cleaner</LI>
    <LI>shellite petroleum spirit (works better than metho, no water)</LI>
    <LI>acetone (dissolves superglue)</LI>
    <LI>WD40</LI>
    <LI>Loctite</LI>
    <LI>Tamiya Threadlock</LI>
    <LI>silicone lubricant spray</LI>
    <LI>Mobil-1 oil (I use it as afterun oil, also works in shocks!)</LI>
    <LI>3-in-1 oil (use it in bushings)</LI>
    <LI>Singer sewing machine oil (use it in bearings)</LI>
    <LI>Tamiya Molybdenum grease (great on gears)</LI>
    <LI>Tamiya Ceramic grease (white, easier to clean)</LI>
    <LI>Tamiya AW grease (tackier, good in diffs)</LI>
    <LI>Tamiya Titanium grease (use it in CVDs)</LI>
    <LI>Tamiya Ball Diff grease (hmmm!?)</LI>
    <LI>ShoeGoo (heaps of uses!)</LI>
    <LI>Selleys Silicone Sealant (for general use)</LI>
    <LI>High-temp silicone RTV (for mufflers)</LI>
    <LI>gaffer tape</LI>
    <LI>legal tape</LI>
    <LI>electrical tape</LI>
    <LI>doublesided tape</LI>
    <LI>auto gasket remover or EasyOff oven cleaner (good for getting the brown castor crust off engine parts)</LI>
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Zooomer,



what is item 20 , Legal Tape ?



With the greases, ti grease, moly grease etc im sure if you went to a
bearing shop or an engineering shop you could get it cheaper and a
bigger quantity. Im sure that tamyia would buy the greases from the
grease makers then put it in cute little tubes/bottles with tamyia on
it and charge a bilion % more !



I am going to try Moreys Bigfoot Grease in my front diff. Its a
silicone based grease for 1:1 scale 4x4 bearings. Ive been using it on
my hilux for years now and its good stuff, a REAL pain in the ass to
work with though, it sticks to everything.







A guy on the outer limits 4x4 bulliten boards signature is as follows



Youy only need two things, WD40 and 100mile per hour tape. If it moves
and it shouldnt use the 100 mile per hour tape, if it should move and
it dosent use the WD40 !



It not my ditty but I like it


Edited by: Odum
 

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i would advise people not to get tamiya thead lock as it is as useless as tits on a bull. ive tried buttinga lil on, putting heaps on, putting intbetween on, and the screws still fall out ! just get proper locktite and you will never go wrong. also go the might DUCK TAPE and zip ties. if ever the day is fading into night jus get your dads mag light and ducktape and zip tie it to your role bar! works a treat
 

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I've come to agree with Jono on the Tamiya Threadlock thing....


It works in some spots, others it doesnt. For instance, all savage owners will know this one, those damn screws that hold the front or rear end on and are the last screw on the chassis that is hidden under the shock... those screws just dont stay in with tamiya threadlock and it is incredibally annoying when i lose one of those screws because i have a bag of 20 screws for 5 dollars and that bag is slowly depleating.
 

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Ok, let's get back on topic shall we.. Essential Chemicals.....


I had never had an issue with the Blue Tamiya Threadlock. Granted I think that the loctite bites harder, but I have never lost a screw using the Tamiya stuff.


Jono - do you tape up many Ducks? Typically I use Duct Tape...LOL



Regards,


AUSRC
 

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there are many strengths of locktite, the ones ive used are blue, purple, and red. red been the strongest, blue been weaker, and i think the purple stuff is even a tiny bit weaker than blue. they all have a number for them, the higher the number, the higher the strength


For metal to metal contact, i would recoment blue. I think for metal to pl,astic contact, you have to use a much stronger locktite, but not 100% sure.


the chemicals i can think of , use are:
wd-40
shelite or methoyated spirts
brake cleaner
tamiya threadlock
tamiya ceramic grease
electronics cleaner
 

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AUSRC said:
Jono - do you tape up many Ducks? Typically I use Duct Tape...LOL



Regards,


AUSRC

LOL That was lame and funny at the same time... Good Work Mate






I'm not sure on the Tamiya Threadlock, it seems to work most times and i'll keep using it until the tubes empty so ah well.


Has anyone tried to use a Degreaser Spray?


My Dad bought it for $2 from the hardware store and I tried it on the engine, and on the truck itself and it seems that it worked alright on the engine but there appeared to be so much crap on the engine plate on my savage (Purple Plate Engine Mount Attaches To) that it couldnt get rid of it, but got rid of a small amount... I guess it just takes a few sprays.. Like around 10.
 

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instead of using heaps of chemicals, i jus purchased a can of spray (its WD40 but marketed under a diff name i think) and a tooth brush from woolys for $2 a quick scrub and its good as gold!...and haha very funny...what makes it worse it that my dad used to be a plumber so i should know the correct spelling :S
 

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Jono,


All in good fun mate.


Regards,


AUSRC
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Found this today, this site should answer any thread locking / adhesive questions

Loctite
 

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AUSRC said:
I had never had an issue with the Blue Tamiya Threadlock. Granted I think that the loctite bites harder, but I have never lost a screw using the Tamiya stuff.

There is 1 main reason I listed *BOTH* Tamiya threadlock and the usual anerobic-cure types... each has its own specific uses.


Tamiya Threadlock is a "solvent glue" - the solvent evaporates, the glue sets. Good thing about it is that even after it sets, it stays pretty tacky and stays on working even after you take off & rescrew again. It also works for screws into plastic where you don't want to use superglue.


Better still it is not adversely affected by temperature... I use it on 0.12 manifold screws!






Anaerobic-cure threadlocks work well for metal-to-metal bonds; it will set only where there is no exposure to air. I've used it for more applications than it is designed for, including gasket-making for a connection that didn't have space nor method for any other sealing - many yrs later that hose fixture is still oil-tight.


Ana-Threadlocks are also Temperature Intolerant... heat releases them. That's how you undo the "permanent" threadlocks, you heat up the bonded screw. So for RC... ana-threadlocks are useless on your engine, don't even bother using it on your head or manifold screws (even TOAB might have cosmetic effect, but ana-TL on a hot area is worse than useless).





One should study the properties of the chemicals you're using, before one can understand what they can do for you.





Jono - do you tape up many Ducks? Typically I use Duct Tape...LOL

I'd have said the same thing too Chris...until I discoved there's a tape manufacturer named DUCK!!!
 

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Odum said:
what is item 20 , Legal Tape ?

Green tape, fibre-reinforced used for binding the edges of legal documents. You can find it in stationers but probably only the oldies would know what its for.



Its a bit like duct tape but its 1" wide and a bit waxier. It does well for protecting stuff from roadrash - you can see where it hits, but it doesn't wear thru too quickly.


Oh yeah, #20a) glass-fibre strapping sellotape also.



With the greases, ti grease, moly grease etc im sure if you went to a bearing shop or an engineering shop you could get it cheaper and a bigger quantity. Im sure that tamyia would buy the greases from the grease makers then put it in cute little tubes/bottles with tamyia on it and charge a bilion % more !

Nope. You'd think so, and I've collected big pots of greases I've bought from eng suppliers & auto shops over the years... but still always gone back to Tamiya tubes.


Moly:- closest you'll find is the various lithium black greases, EP stuff for extreme-duty bearings etc. But Tamiya moly is thinner, less drag & hangs onto RC gears better. (You don't need much, I open a new tube every 3-4 yrs and that's doing a dozen or 2 cars every yr.)


Ceramic:- aka"plastic grease" and used by VCR repairmen & electricians. But price up a tube from one of their suppliers and heck, that's why I'm sticking with Tamiya. (and now I use T Ceramic in my VCR and electric switches too...)


Ti & AW grease:- no such equivalent stuff in big world; @ $10 for a tiny 3g tube (superglue size!) you think I haven't looked long and hard??


These are custom inventions by Tamiya only released last few yrs (Moly's been out for 20 yrs) so I don't think anywhere/thing else would use it. They are *very* unique, you have to experience them firsthand.





And yes, another consideration is Convenience. Same reason why I buy Coke in 375mL cans at the same time as buying PET bottles.... although the rate I'm going with softdrink, a draught dispenser is fast becoming a viable option.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Hey zoomer,



For heads bolts u can use loctite head stud compund ( 262 ) It is designed specifically for automotive head studs and one
would imagine it is heat tolerant.



Also regarding the moly grease, have u tried the molykote range of moly greases ? They have a very wide range !



If u are after a super sticky silicone grease then Moreys Bigfoot
Grease is the answer. It sucks to work with, it sticks to
everything !










Edited by: Odum
 

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Zoomer said:
Jono - do you tape up many Ducks? Typically I use Duct Tape...LOL

I'd have said the same thing too Chris...until I discoved there's a tape manufacturer named DUCK!!!

Zoomer,


So do Duck make Duct Tape?
Imaginegoing into the local HW storesand asking for Duck Duct Tape..... they would think you had a stutter.


Regards,


AUSRCEdited by: AUSRC
 

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Odum said:
Hey zoomer,

For heads bolts u can use loctite head stud compund ( 262 ) It is designed specifically for automotive head studs and one would imagine it is heat tolerant.

Also regarding the moly grease, have u tried the molykote range of moly greases ? They have a very wide range !

If u are after a super sticky silicone grease then Moreys Bigfoot Grease is the answer. It sucks to work with, it sticks to everything !




262 is too strong. 222 is a better bet. though for a nitro engine you shouldn't have to use loctite anywhere on it
 

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Odum said:
For heads bolts u can use loctite head stud compund ( 262 ) It is designed specifically for automotive head studs and one would imagine it is heat tolerant.

No way, 262 is one of their "permanent" ones. But heat is still the only way to remove it, gotta use a blowtorch.


I think nitro engines do run hotter than typical car engines - don't forget they have water cooling and large areas of steel to spread the heat.





But yeah, shouldn't need threadlock on the head. I might put a dab of Tamiya Threadlock on the threads only to prevent seizing... then crank them down with a good allen driver. (Replace all non-hex screws with high-tensile cap heads!)




Also regarding the moly grease, have u tried the molykote range of moly greases ? They have a very wide range !

If u are after a super sticky silicone grease then Moreys Bigfoot Grease is the answer. It sucks to work with, it sticks to everything !

As said before, have raided many garages and tried quite a few... looking for suitable stuff to gunk up a gear diff mainly.


But for lubricating gears, Tamiya Moly is still the best.


How much grease can you use on your RC anyway??? A tube lasts about 30 cars... any less and you're using too much!!
 

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AUSRC said:
Zoomer said:
Jono - do you tape up many Ducks? Typically I use Duct Tape...LOL

I'd have said the same thing too Chris...until I discoved there's a tape manufacturer named DUCK!!!

So do Duck make Duct Tape?
Imaginegoing into the local HW storesand asking for Duck Duct Tape..... they would think you had a stutter.

Yeah they *do*
.... amongst other adhesive tapes.





Was speaking to a guy that does household heating... he tells me self-respecting tradies would avoid using "duct tape" as much as possible.


Trouble is the glue dries up and loses tack after a few yrs, especially on hot surfaces and just falls off. The average house would last longer than 10 yrs....
 

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back when my father used to be a plumber he put some duct tape around a tap base to cover between the tile and the tap until they put new tiles in which was meant to be a month away...anyways about 6 years later my dad went to re seat the taps and looky hear, same piece of duck tape was stillthere, so he pulled it off nad put another peice on it...i spose one day they will re tile the bathroom aye..but its my godfather, if anything can be postponed he knows how to do it!
 

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Have you tried using heaps of fishing reel grease in the diffs? Was thinking of this as its a grease that has oil like properties.


Another one to add to the list is light oil - like gun oil or sewing machine oil as the after run oil.


Gun oil usually comes ina handy pressure pack with a direct squird - not a spray, which i think will be usefull. It is also full of solvents that will clean you engine as well as lubricate it.
 
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