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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
hey, to keep a long story short, i soldered deans connecters onto my charger and now it has spat 2 fuses. both within 5 secs of being turned on...any ideas what is causing this..duratrax is hopeless so my dreams lay in your hands
 

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putting deans plugs shouldn't make any diffence to your charger. What are you running you charger off? I had a LRP (less reliable product) micro charger that would spit fuses every time i connected to the 12 v car battery but would be fine if run off a switchmode power supply.ok so it was a 900CCA odessey battery but that should not matter.






The only thing i can suggest is check the soldering on the plug to make sure you don't have anysmall bits of wire shorting out across + and -
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
ok ill check that but yeah its charged flawlesly on a car battery so far (doesnt have a 240v option) and its just now..basically im not happy
and it might stop me from bashing on the 15th..i spose ill jus pick up a $5 from dick smith to last me till i fix this one
 

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JoNo-vs-SAVAGE said:
i soldered deans connecters.. now it has spat 2
fuses. both within 5 secs of being turned on...
Jono. It sounds
to me like the charger is shorting out - hence why it's blowing fuses.
I would be double checking your deans connectors to ensure you haven't
got any stray solder touching or near the other post. You could try
cutting the deans off the wires and seeing if it pops a fuse when it's
not connected to anything?



Superbrain 969 is still charging away flawlessly - I think it has a
electronic self reset safety switch (like a house) rather than fuses
you have to change?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
nar its sorted we jus changed the 3 amp fuse to a 4amp fuse (it charges at 4 amps anyway) and its fine. loose solder etc was the firs thting we checked
 

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JoNo-vs-SAVAGE said:
nar its sorted we jus changed the 3 amp fuse to a 4amp fuse (it charges at 4 amps anyway) and its fine. loose solder etc was the firs thting we checked

D'oh!



What's the manual-recommended fuse rating anyway?


Think it'll usually be more than the max rating eg 5A. But then those ratings are probably @ 12V anyway.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
it was running a 2amp fuse but it charges at 4 amps so go figure
its only DC so i dont have to worry about 240 volts or anything..it may have been shorting out on somehting but as slong as it works for this weeknd im happy



and the manual is about as usless as duratrax is
 

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Nah, what I meant was fuses blow when they exceed their rated "wattage".


Power = Voltage x Current (P=VI)


eg a "4A" fuse rated @ 12V needs over 48W to blow it.


If you pass 8V thru it instead of 12V, it'll take 6A to create 48W in the same fuse.


That's why you can't take a fuse rated for 240V and think it'll work for 12V. That was a common mixup with glass-tube fuses before the car 12V fuse standard went to blades.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
ohhh ok
ive just been charging off a car battery so i dont think the voltage coudl spike that high....and after nicks experiences i have ensured that the car has not been started while the charger is conected
 

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Ideally the battery should be disconnected from the car if you're using sensitive peak chargers. Even opening a door/boot and making the interior light go on can disrupt the peak detect circuitry.


I use a battery disconnect knob switch to isolate the battery.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
nice idea, might get my step father to knock off a decent switch from work and rig it up
also a handy kill switch if its outa the road
 
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