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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Has any one had problems with the diffs on tbo2 IE thrust bearing going in may pieces the 2 x 25 bolt strippingand snappingand no parts in aus?Any ideasor work rounds
 

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Nope, no problems. Those are the same parts as on the TA04 ball diff and TB Evo III diffs so they shouldn't give you problems. I have built & rebuilt dozens of these assemblies and have not damaged any -Methinks its user error.


The thrust bearing should be kept cleaned and well-greased. If you run it dry it will fail.


The screw is steel and should be pretty hardwearing. Ppl strip the head when they use lousy tools & cheapo allen keys. Never heard of the thread being stripped before - methink the nyloc nut would strip first.





How tight are you making the thing?? NEVER EVER TIGHTEN IT ALL THE WAY!! All the plastic parts will squash out of alignment and you'll dent all the balls in the diff... which gives 'gritty' diffs & probably leads to premature failure.





If your Tamiya stockist can't supply the parts (very low demand for them), buy a "TA04 Ball Diff" kit instead. It will give you new screw, new thrust bearing and a new set of diff balls. Pricewise there's not much difference over buying all the items separately - if you could find them.
 
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks for the reply I used the the allen key supplied with the kit and was making the as tight as the instructions said ?may be to tight(quote instructions) the ball diff ring geardose not slip looking at this again as you said (Methinks its user error)I was under the impression that you tightened it till you could not move then with the allen keys one in each end and turn ?


Should you be able to turn them with your hands ?or just how tight should it be?I have put other kits together but this is the first with ball diff....to get round the first bolt i snapped i put in a TB evo iii one way unit but this only gave breaking on rear. But i had not done it up enought on the rear because of snapping the front bolt thus i did up more and ran the car for 5 minutes and it brakedOKon the rear only and accelerated greatthe all of a sudden it seamed to loosen andstopped breaking at all and was pulling from the front. I thought i would cheat an try and tighten by holding one rear wheel and turn other but i wound ita couple of times and then felt a snap it wasn't the bolt it was the thrust bearing going to piecesso thats my story so far
any more advice would be very much appreciated thanks Edited by: glenn3108
 

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yup sounds like you've waaaay overtightened it.



Ball diff should only be tight enough to stop the balls slipping against the rings. That is the minimum tightness. Your motor should be able to put all its power thru the diff and it shouldn't slip.


It can go tighter but that's for more "limited slip" action to change the car's handling tuning. It is best to usually leave your diffs as free as possible without slipping the balls.


Ball diff should never be tightened until there's zero movement. Doing that will flatspot all the balls as well as the balls in the thrustbearing = imminent failure.





To adjust the diff in the car, I remove the dogbone from the screw end and put the allen key in. Adjust the screw by turning the other wheel.





My only trouble with the diff has been when the screw loosens itself in use - usually means grease has gotten into the threads & nyloc nut. Just degrease and they work again.


Personal complaint is the TB02 outdrives aren't as good as the ones on TBe3. Very hard to build the TB02 ones without getting notchy operation, whereas the TBe3 ones are silky smooth. (And of the TBe3 outdrives, the earlier BLACK ones are better than the later white Surikarn ones which are also more expensive.) If I was seriously racing the TB02 I'd rebuild the diffs using TBe3 black outdrives.


Oneway is a tuning option. You must have the right track, driving skill& conditions to use it to give you a better lap time.
 
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks again for all the info Ive ordered the ta04 ball dif kit and it will arrive thursday and then I will start again and not over tighten any thing I will post up an update if it all works
 
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
the TB04 diff arrived tonight and i then started to carefully put the diff back together and yes if you know whatsgoing onit works wondersit appears that only doing it up only till the bolt just comes out ofthe nyloc is just right but will have to take it out this weekend and give it a work out and thanks zoomer for your info other wise i would still be stumped wonderingwhat i was doing wrong
 

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Where'd you get the Diff from? I got my manta-ray ball diff for my TL01 for like $50, think it was a bit much.


The TA04 and Manta Ray diffs are the same aren't they?
 

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GSRace said:
Where'd you get the Diff from? I got my manta-ray ball diff for my TL01 for like $50, think it was a bit much.


The TA04 and Manta Ray diffs are the same aren't they?

No -TA04 is a belt-drive car & MantaRay uses gears, you do the math.


MantaRay balldiff is very similar to TA03 diff and can be used interchangeably; we also use it in the M03 Minis, FF01 & FF02.


TA04 balldiff only fits TA04 & TRF414, but some of its component parts are same as Tamiya's other "modern" balldiffs.





There's quite a few precision bits in the balldiff and to buy all the parts separately could add up to $100+ & usually there's not much demand so the LHS don't usually stock all bits separately. So the full kit for A$50-70 is usually recommended way to go - worth it for what you get.


But $20+ for a set of coloured wheel nuts?? NUTZ...
 
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