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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've read from many sources now that it's a good idea to boil you plastic parts while they are still on the parts tree before assembly. It supposedly helps improve the flexibility in the plastic parts and should reduce breakages.


Has anybody got any tips on how long you should boil them for?
 

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ya, parts soup is really yummy stuff... grew up on it. First time was 1986 I think!






Boiling plastic parts relieves the molding stresses and also makes some plastics more pliable - which is a good thing unless you want your parts stiff.


How long? don't think it matters, we used to do it about 30 mins.


Just a big pot full of water, slow simmer. Best not to let the stuff touch the bottom, either suspend from a wire or put a baking rack at the bottom of the pot.


Most plastics eg nylons will take boiling, but SOME won't & they just melt. Just gotta know which ones eg don't try boiling ABS bits ie most Tamiya chassis parts. I think older Yokomo buggy bits didn't take heat either even if they looked like nylon.


If your nylon bits aren't black, you can dye them with Dylon. (Use an old pot!)





Is it effective? Who knows..? You'd never have the same crash twice with boiled vs unboiled parts, so its impossible to tell.


The guys used to boil the Tamiya SandScorcher bumper back in the 1980s. I think the PB MiniMustang benefitted from it too. The last car I've boiled would have been an HPI Micro RS4... just been too lazy to do it.


Also all my current cars use the graphite-reinforced "hard" parts, so its probably not a good idea to boil those.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
So as a safety test it's probably worth boiling some of the 'runners' from the parts tree first to see if they handle it OK. Then move on to the actual parts if all is alright?


As you can probably guess I'm talking about my new savage parts after the weekend carnage.
 

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not even boiling parts would have saved you in that smash



worth a shot though
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
husky said:
not even boiling parts would have saved you in that smash



worth a shot though

Yeah, yeah... everyones a comedian on here aren't they??



Actually, can you imagine if I make my suspension arms even 'springier'... I might bounce a back flip after landing. I hope you've got your camera ready young bloke.
 

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yeah i must admit it is entertaining watching you drive
my camera's always handy
 

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Skidd,



have u got any pics of the carnage ??



what is i with you southerns... where are all your action shots ????????
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Dan said:
Skidd,

have u got any pics of the carnage ??

what is i with you southerns... where are all your action shots ????????

LOL... Dan, as I tried to explain (tongue in cheek) in another thread, most of our shots are video types. I personally only have a really crappy little digital stills that is only good for stationary photos. On the other hand I have quite a nice DV cam and an excellent 'film' SLR.


So most of our escapades get posted as video links by either Husky or Morphy





Here are some of them;


tOiletduck getting a good run at local BMX track


http://www.rcpics.net/view_single.php?medid=33679


<hr />


Skidd getting bad bounce after 2 landings;


http://www.rcpics.net/view_single.php?medid=33775


<hr />


Husky giving his fantom .27 a good workout at BMX track


http://www.rcpics.net/view_single.php?medid=32444


<hr />


Morphy, Husky, tOiletduck & Skidd bashing on some jumps


http://www.rcpics.net/view_single.php?medid=32441


<hr />


Savage SS, foolsp33d, Husky, Morphy, Skidd, tOiletduck, Otisman all bashing


http://www.rcpics.net/view_single.php?medid=30445


<hr />


These are just a few of our escapades... for some reason I can't find the link to the vid that Morphy posted... I know his had some cool editing with music and all!!
 

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Has any tried this on Savage parts?


Did you have any success?


I was told about it on the weekend after explaining my habbit of breaking C-Hubs\steering knucles.Edited by: telby69
 

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well i guess it wouldnt do any harm telby as the boys said more flex so i will give it a try on my next broken plastic part...thx for the tip skidd
 

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There is a way to make plastic parts stiffer/stronger..... and yes part
of it involves boiling them. Its what you add to the water that is the
key.............
 

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Ive used RIT dye to color white nylon wheels, works a treat
. boiling parts to make them more flexible sounds interesting. Ive read about people in colder climates where it snows their parts seem tobreak easier due to the plastic getting brittle in the cold. I dont know if you would notice it as much over here as the plastic would get pretty warm in the sun.. worth a try tho...
 

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wel then if it gets pretty warn just freeze them
but on my behalf its worth a crack i have a part thats alway breakin when it braks next ill get a new one and boil it
 

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telby69 said:
Has any tried this on Savage parts?


Did you have any success?


I was told about it on the weekend after explaining my habbit of breaking C-Hubs\steering knucles.

Yes its worthwhile boiling your HPI parts like arms & knuckles.


Have done it on Savage, micro RS4 & 1/10 RS4.


With my current SS I just chucked all the plastic sprues into the soup pot and simmered for 10-15 mins. Then fish them all out and give them a spin in the somebody's you-beaut OXO salad spinner.


nb: if you do it when parts are NEW, your next soup/salad won't taste funny.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
zoomer said:
nb: if you do it when parts are NEW, your next soup/salad won't taste funny.


What? You mean that you don't have a specific 'parts boiling pot' to prevent that problem?
 

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Skidd said:
What? You mean that you don't have a specific 'parts boiling pot' to prevent that problem?

Nah, can't afford a dedicated LeCruset for that purpose.
I don't build enough.


(would you boil your toy in anything LESS?!
)
 

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Guys,


boiling psrts will only work for some plastics generally the nylons are the ones to benefit the most


I used to work in injection moulding so I know a little about this


If your parts are fairly old boiling will probably not help.


Many plastics are hydroscopic so prior to injection moulding the resin is dried often in a dehumidifying dryer to reduce the gassing issues during the moulding process.


Often we boiled parts after production to put the moisture back into them .


Many smaller parts simply recover the moisture from the atmosphere without requiring any treatment.


Note boiling parts can change their shape size tolerances and they may not fit together as well as when they were initially moulded (some of the stresses relieved were holding the part in side the factory tolerances)


The larger the part the longer the boiling time - a psrt that weighed about 100Gms = 2hrs from memory


Cheers


 

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Cool, very interesting. I dont think Ill bother boiling any plastics now.


time involved / savings x end result = probably not worth it
 

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HPI's nylon mouldings aren't too bad, but some other RC brands must be boiled otherwise your car won't even last one run.


Making your car more durable is not for stupid crazy bashing... more like for endurance racing.


We used to run 3/4/5/6hr enduro races and yeah - the car's gotta hold up otherwise a broken car ain't gunna complete the race. Even if there's time to fix it, we'd rather be driving the race rather than fixing.


Build them right and I, umm, seldom spend much time 'wrenching' on my rides.
 
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