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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Greetings everyone!

I am a new member to this forum. I was recently searching google to find forums which still discusses the RC18, there are very few.

I am a huge fan of this car and was curious to see if there are other enthusiasts who still use this model. The RC18T is quite a few years old now but in my opinion is still relevant as a killer RC to have.

I have been running a modified RC18T since they first came out in 2004-2005. In March of this year, I decided to build a completely new machine from the ground up. It is my most extensive attempt to date at custom building my idea of the ultimate RC18T using new components I have fabricated as well as stock and aftermarket parts.

I have a blog called PROJECT RC which discusses this custom build in detail, that I thought may interest other RC18T enthusiats. It is a work in progress. There are also other articles besides the RC18T build. Feel free to check it out. :)


PROJECT RC Home page: https://projectrcblog.wordpress.com

RC18T Custom Build: https://projectrcblog.wordpress.com/2015/03/05/2/





There are links at the bottom of the blog article page to direct you to the various build details.


Cheers,
RC Christo
____________
PROJECT RC+
https://projectrcblog.wordpress.com/
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
G'day Associated,


Thanks mate. Great to see that there are still RC18T enthusiasts! I am curious about your exotek 18r. Does that have a slipper clutch? I remember reading some time ago that exotek made a slipper clutch upgrade for the RC18T, but I could be mistaken.
 

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Nice mod.
Might have to look at that on my plastic chassis 18's. I have mine set at 90deg to that. Same battery.
The Exotec doesn't have a slipper but yep they do make them. In the Exotek I haven't felt the need and the T and B use the dirt for a slipper.
The Exotek is running a castle CM26 6800kv motor but my castle ESC died.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks, glad you like it. It certainly provided the solution to my LiPo fitting issue. I considered positioning the LiPo at 90deg also but that created fitting issues with the Custom Receiver tray I had made, which suspends the receiver above the battery. Also I wanted to keep as much of the battery weight as low as possible.


What do you think of that battery?


I tried looking for the exotek slipper for the RC18T but no cigar. That CM26 is a beast, but I think Castle stopped making them. Were you running a Mamba 25 ESC or a Micro Pro?
 

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The battery does the job. And cheap as hell.
I bought 4 about 3 years ago and I have only lost 1 over that time.
Was a micro pro.........went up like a candle.
With a gyro the Exotek was good for 110.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
The battery does the job. And cheap as hell.
I bought 4 about 3 years ago and I have only lost 1 over that time.
Was a micro pro.........went up like a candle.
With a gyro the Exotek was good for 110.


That's good to know Associated. I was about to purchase some more.


That is interesting about the micro pro burn. Do you know what caused it? Was it a result of forcefeeding it Lipos... ha. 110.
 

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Yeah I bought some Nanotechs from HK of that size... I think they're used (in pairs?) in the TRX mini E-Revo & mini Slash.

I'm just using them in lieu of humppacks :)

Was wondering if they'd fit into the hole of the 6x 2/3rd AA ladderpacks in 1/18s... still got a X-ray M18T and a Tamiya GB01 somewhere inaccessible :) ... and a RC18B still untouched. Never got around to getting electrical gear for it yet.
 

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Dunno what to think, didn't have any expectations either way ;)

Supposedly Nanotech is HK's top dog (on the price tier? Haha) and probably better than their other Turnigy or Zippy home brands. They work ok with mild 540s anyway... don't think I'll be stressing them up to their promised 80C or whatever 8(

They're the only softpack I use, they're wrapped in thick bubblewrap to squeeze into holes where a 5cell ladderpack (6cell humppack's footprint) usually sits in old Tamiyas.

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/...C_Lipo_Pack_TRA2820_Traxxas_1_16_models_.html

Had them for probably 18mths, they do look a bit chubbier than when new... got 2 in use, might have another 1-2 unused might go compare them when I find where they're hiding :)

Just landed a 6pk of red Zippy hardpack 4000s in more traditional size last week too... 25C, wonder if they're even as punchy as Nanotech 80C minis haha
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 · (Edited)

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Discussion Starter · #17 · (Edited)

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·

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Great post....

Are these mods compatible with the SC18?

Do you have any advice on horrific torque steer issues with the SC18?
:)
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Great post....

Are these mods compatible with the SC18?

Do you have any advice on horrific torque steer issues with the SC18?
:)

Thanks equinox74 :)


The SC18 is based on the RC18T2 (version 2) chassis with the belt drive driveline. From what I understand only some parts are compatible with the RC18T (version 1) which I am building, for example the hubs and uprights. I know that the SC18 and the RC18T2 have an option to fit a ball differential instead of the gear differential. I am unsure if you can use the RC18T ball diff outdrives, possibly, as they do look very similar but you will have to check that out.


As far as the shimming is concerned you can apply the same techniques of checking and installing shims as I described in my most recent article about building and shimming an RC18T drivetrain, for your SC18.


In regards to the torque steer, that is usually caused by an imbalance of power applied to the drive wheels during acceleration. In your case it could be possible that your differentials are providing more power to one side than the other due to the diff slipping or binding on one side. I would check the fitment of the diff pulley gear on the diffs. I have read that this can sometimes bind one side of the diff more than the other.


Hope that helps :)
 
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