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AssociatedRC8 could you send me the solidworks/cad files?

My uncle can mill them for me.

Just a few questions:
- from the pdf docs on google it seems I would need at least 14mm thick aluminium, is that correct?
- what type of aluminium would you recommend, 6061 or 7075?
- how long is the motor shaft on your Castle motor, just checking for compatibility (I have a hobbywing 2150kV with 18.5mm shaft), and what pinion do you use?
- I read you used the RC8 center shaft with 500k oil, what dog bones did you use and do you use the stock 44T spur?
- did you use any other parts for the mechanical conversion (I understand battery boxes, ESC, receiver box etc need to be added/modified)?

Thanks in advance for answering my questions. I just got started on 1/8 scale so I don't have spares lying around that I can use so I want to get the correct parts at the first go.
 

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HPI 101162 (8x133mm) dog bone rear, HPI 101360 (8x88 mm) dog bone front
If you want to position the motor mount more to the center you should get the same length in total but different lengths per dog bone. I like the fact that the weight of the motor is more to the front, the truck tends to lean less and handle a bit better in cornering due to the fact that there's more weight on the front axles.

Here's my blog, it's in dutch but Chrome will translate inline for you, there's a first run vid and the build:
http://rc.moredruid.org

I'm still considering upgrading my CVT's to the MGT8/Rival MT but I guess I'll hold off until they wear out. I have the 14mm wheel hexes from the original MTA4 and they are way too small for the amount of power that they get so 17mm or 23mm (HPI parts mod, somewhere on these forums as well) is definately something I want to get in te future.

That and do yourself the favour of RPM A-arms all around. I love 'em!
 

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Discussion Starter · #69 ·
Looks nice in black.
Haven't been in this thread for a while so if you guys are still after the model give me a yell.
The mgt is about to be transformed.........stay tuned!!
 

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HPI 101162 (8x133mm) dog bone rear, HPI 101360 (8x88 mm) dog bone front
If you want to position the motor mount more to the center you should get the same length in total but different lengths per dog bone. I like the fact that the weight of the motor is more to the front, the truck tends to lean less and handle a bit better in cornering due to the fact that there's more weight on the front axles.

Here's my blog, it's in dutch but Chrome will translate inline for you, there's a first run vid and the build:
http://rc.moredruid.org

I'm still considering upgrading my CVT's to the MGT8/Rival MT but I guess I'll hold off until they wear out. I have the 14mm wheel hexes from the original MTA4 and they are way too small for the amount of power that they get so 17mm or 23mm (HPI parts mod, somewhere on these forums as well) is definately something I want to get in te future.

That and do yourself the favour of RPM A-arms all around. I love 'em!
THANK YOU!!! I picked this truck up for $50.00 (MGT 4.6 needed motor) and seen this thread and jumped right into it lol. ordered a rc8 center diff, found the bearings, ordered some 500k oil, then i stated measuring and looking for some info on the drive shafts. I'll post some pics soon. thanks again for the info!
 

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HPI 101162 (8x133mm) dog bone rear, HPI 101360 (8x88 mm) dog bone front
If you want to position the motor mount more to the center you should get the same length in total but different lengths per dog bone. I like the fact that the weight of the motor is more to the front, the truck tends to lean less and handle a bit better in cornering due to the fact that there's more weight on the front axles.

Here's my blog, it's in dutch but Chrome will translate inline for you, there's a first run vid and the build:
http://rc.moredruid.org

I'm still considering upgrading my CVT's to the MGT8/Rival MT but I guess I'll hold off until they wear out. I have the 14mm wheel hexes from the original MTA4 and they are way too small for the amount of power that they get so 17mm or 23mm (HPI parts mod, somewhere on these forums as well) is definately something I want to get in te future.

That and do yourself the favour of RPM A-arms all around. I love 'em!
the 88mm is a bit long. had to order a 84mm to make fit. heads up. also this is with a rc8 center diff.
 

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depends on how you measure I guess.
I (and HPI) measure from crossbar to crossbar:
Code:
(|)-----(|)
  <----->
not end to end
Code:
(|)----(|)
<-------->
that difference could be about 4mm

what I did was take a few wooden rods (sateh/satay sticks work great for this) and mock it all up, snipping off what wasn't needed and measure them. Depending on where you put your diff the measurements will be different.

Half the fun is figuring out what works best tho :p
 

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I think most of the companies measure cross pin to cross pin for dog bone styled shafts these days

I like the idea using satay sticks to get your measurements...it is a vast improvement over my tape measure idea that is more often than not wrong
 

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How is your set-up working with the billet motor mounts. I love them mounts, way better than the Rivals! I have tons of questions. What part #s would I need to convert my Nitro MGT 4.6 if I used the billet mounts? Considering I can still get the mounts?
 

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Discussion Starter · #78 ·
My mounts are made from 6000 series aluminium and have been using them for some time now with no damage to the mount in any way. That is with a big arse 1717 motor hanging off it. I am still using the original RC8 diff but with 500000 weight oil to almost lock it.
Saying that I don't run monster truck tyres very often.
From memory the drive shafts I used are from a savage XL.
I still need to setup a dual battery tray for mine to run a 4S 2P batteries.
I have also started a modification that will test the components to the limit....
 

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My mounts are made from 6000 series aluminium and have been using them for some time now with no damage to the mount in any way. That is with a big arse 1717 motor hanging off it. I am still using the original RC8 diff but with 500000 weight oil to almost lock it.
Saying that I don't run monster truck tyres very often.
From memory the drive shafts I used are from a savage XL.
I still need to setup a dual battery tray for mine to run a 4S 2P batteries.
I have also started a modification that will test the components to the limit....
Well don't stop there...tell us more...what evil things are you going to do to this poor defenseless beast
 

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I'm looking around to convert my Thunder Tiger Sledgehammer S80 as well to Brushless. I already asked AssociatedRC8 for the cad/solid files :). I also asked moredruid to help me out (he is living nearby) otherwise I will try to find somebody else in the neighborhood to mill the motor mounts. Regarding the center diff will a RC8.2e Center Differential fit or must it be a the RC8 diff (I found the RC8.2e FT Center Differential for a good price on the internet). It's hard to find dimension.

I'm also curious about the new modifications from AssociatedRC8 :D.
 
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