Thunder Tiger XXB Main Spur Gear Issues
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  1. #1
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    Thunder Tiger XXB Main Spur Gear Issues

    Hi,

    I have a Thunder tiger sparrow hawk XXB and recently took it through some gravel and sand. As you may guess, my main spur gear (72T 48 pitch) is now completely smooth. Somehow (and i dont know how) my pinion gear looks brand new, so thats a bonus.

    I've had a look online at replacing this main gear with a genuine part but it looks to be somewhere around $20 each once postage is taken into account. This seems crazy when HSP main gears are about $3.

    I've looked at trying to find an aftermarket cheap part to use but, im affraid it wont work as my system uses a slipper clutch and the slipper pad is a very specific size and shape.

    Can anyone shed any light onto what i may do other than to get a genuine one? Can i just get a cheap aftermarket, remove the slipper pads and tighten the nut that clamps it all together super tight, or will it slip? My fear is that i have to use the genuine parts.

    Also, the chassis has a nice slot taken out right under the main gear where the sand and small rocks would have got in. Best way to cover this up? Have thought about just covering it with tape - That way if i ever need to get in there or remove a rock, i can just pull the tape off and easily re-apply? My mate has a cheap HSP and his pinion and spur main gear are completely covered and he had no issues.

    Pictures for reference:
    This is my main gear: http://resources.hobbystores.co.uk/p...e/P/PD9224.jpg (As can be seen, the slipper pad is in a pentagon-type shape).
    Am hoping i can use something cheap like this (Even if i have to change pinion): http://thumbs2.ebaystatic.com/d/l225...yfemMjJorg.jpg

    Thanks, would love any replies.

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  3. #2
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    Have you tried to find the spur gear at your local hobby shop? Often it can be cheaper due to no postage costs. The HSP part won't work as it has the raised bit in the middle. Unless you can find a similar buggy that has the same type I would just go with the stock setup.

  4. #3
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    It might be worth checking out Losi spur gears. From your pictures they look about the same. If your local hobby shop doesn't carry HSP they might carry Losi spares. If the size is the same you get 3 losi spur gears per pack.

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  6. #4
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    Unfortunately we only have a small country Toy World that stock very very little in the way of RC cars. I guess it could be worth asking them if they can get the part in and at what cost. It looks like Associated T4, B4 and some other Associated models use a similar spur main gear, but to use them you need to use their slipper pads and put a 5mm drill piece through the middle to widen it. Seems a bit scary. The pricing is cheaper, but adding the shipping cost from USA, brings it back to normal pricing. (So, buying bulk would be cheaper) but, id hate for a drill to wreck the gear.

    Has anyone every put a small screw through a slipper and through the main gear? Effectively deleting the clutch setup? I wish the main gears were cheaper - I have a feeling i will regularly destroy them.

    Looks like T-bone make a rear plastic bumper that actually covers the bottom hole under the pinion and spur main gear. This might be worth looking into for $35.

  7. #5
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    For the sake of $20 I'd use the stock one and try to cover that slot/hole. Then next time you go to a town with a proper hobby store try to compare it.

  8. #6
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    And start searching through rc forums etc for slipper clutch delete kits/mods.

  9. #7
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    Thanks! Have had a good look for slipper delete / eliminator kits but, nothing for my model. Have found one for the Associated T4, but if using the gear on my model you have to drill the gear to 5mm, im sure you would have to drill the eliminator to 5mm, and its a long piece of metal so, i dont think that would end well.

    Will keep looking though! I can get 2 X the original gears for $26.50 posted, or i can get 2 X the ones that need modifying with slipper pads for $30.87, but then in the future the modified ones would be cheaper as i wouldnt need the slipper pads....I might just get the original, and like you say, cover that bottom hole. Im sure some tape will work, if not, might be able to get a small piece of plastic and drill holes where needed and get slightly longer bottom-chassis screws to hold it in place. I'm sure with it covered, less stuff will be getting sucked in there. I just hope i am able to set the mesh correctly so that they dont wear out on their own. I know it needs to be tight and then backed off a little, but im unsure. Too tight and it will wear, too loose and it will wear... Will need to do some research on this.

  10. #8
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    Best method for gearmesh it put a strip of regular A4 paper between the pinion and spur. Push tight together then lock in place. Turn until the paper comes out and you should have a good mesh.

  11. #9
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    Also search and see if the model you have is also sold as something else. Often brands rebadge stuff and you might find more info on the other brand than the one you have.

  12. #10
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    Thanks heaps! I knew there was some sort of paper trick but wasnt aware of the steps, thats awesome! Thanks.. Will do this. Just ordered 2 X original spur main gears for the $26.50 posted. Figured its better than trying to modify something, only to have it not work and have to buy the originals anyway. Have had a good look, i think its a modified version of one of the Associated RC's but, the main gear is slightly different. Looks like the Thunder tiger Tomahawk uses the same main gear and thats how i found the 2 for $26.50 Just sucks i cant get something cheap from china, or even cheap from Aus. Really hope these 2 X spur's last me a while!

  13. #11
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    Got the new genuine main gear in, did the paper trick and it seems to sit well and mesh well.

    1st test attempt: Car was FWD on the ground but had some RWD action with no load (When lifted in the air). Completely stripped drive train around the main gear and reassembled as i thought one of the slipper pads on the rear might not have been seated correctly.

    2nd attempt: Car seemed like it was 4WD for 20 seconds and then became RWD with no FWD at all. Grub screw had come out of drive shaft and the shaft had popped out. Luckily, found grub screw. Reassembled and used lots of medium blue thread lock on the grub screw.

    3rd attempt, back to FWD with slight RWD. Then worked out that the rear left 12mm hex adapter between wheel and hub was completely rounded. this was the corner that had previously lost 2 wheels. Ordered a 4 pack of genuine hex adapters and will thread lock all wheel screw / bolts.

    Ordered a rear bumper straight from USA designed for this model. It covers the spur gear hole underneath and also provided a bit more rear plastic. (I assume for durability). Still awaiting this.

    Im still a little concerned that im going to chew through main gears and am not particularly happy paying such a high amount for main gears. Still looking for a way around the slipper clutch but, it looks like the slipper plates themselves are the things that turn the drive shaft. It looks like i would need a way to attach the slipper plates to a main spur gear without negatively affecting its balance or strength.

    I cant help but feel like Thunder Tiger have made the majority of their gear so that it has to be replaced with thunder tiger parts. My mate has a HSP 1/10 and is getting plastic spur's for $3 posted and steel for $10 posted. His spur's are a generic type with no annoying clutch to deal with. His hex adapters are generic and are compatible with most other RC models, mine have these silly triangle hubs that no other make or model uses. Mine uses bolts for the wheels to be held in place, his uses lock nuts. Cant help but feel like Thunder Tiger were in this to make a lot of money and to disregard ease of parts. I know deep down that the Thunder Tiger is a better quality machine but, i'm feeling a bit ripped off when a HSP is running laps around mine in actual speed, part availability, part pricing, ease of part fitting and ease of upgrade. He now has big metal truggy style rims on his buggy and they look and feel great. Im stuck with standard style buggy rims as my steering arms bang into any rim i try to put on. Thunder tiger do sell hub extension parts, but im not paying $60 for 4 small hex adapter pieces to allow me to run different rims.

    Rant over :P

    EDIT: Also, if i were to remove the slipper pads and just have the slipper plates hard up against the main gear with the spring up tight, do you think it would slip because its metal against plastic and not metal against the foam slipper pad?
    Last edited by shadowchild93; 02-02-2016 at 11:52 AM. Reason: Added more content

  14. #12
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    Yep the slipper plates are keyed or similar and turn with the shaft. The spur spins freely in between. Most people just tighten the **** out of the nut. You could drill through the plates and the spur and fit screws but you would have to be very careful and drill the holes so it's perfectly balanced. Plus you need to make sure you have the clearance for the nut and screw head etc. Removing the slipper pad would not work. The plastic on metal is more likely to slip than with the pad.

  15. #13
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    Thanks - Was hoping to hear from you again!

    Yes, thats the word - Keyed. The slipper plates are keyed to the shaft as they have a flat side that makes them fit 100% perfect (which is why i dont think i can remove the clutch setup).
    Im okay with using the clutch, but its the fact that the main gears arent cheap that is the problem. They are the exact things i thought about with a nut and screw/bolt. I dont know that i would have the right clearance or be able to balance it. Is it worth setting the clutch perfectly or should i just tighten it? I guess if i tighten it, im only going to go through main gears faster correct?

    Damn, and if the main gear is likely to slip more (which i think it will as well) then theres no point looking at aftermarket main gears that dont utilize a slipper clutch. Seems silly to me that brushless "can be" faster than nitro, yet nitro have the big strong gears and electric have the ones that chew out easily.

  16. #14
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    Have you looked for metal upgrade gears? If you set the clutch right the gears will last longer. But there is nothing worse than slip. I would tighten it up and see how you go with that new cover. You could try to find a slipper elimiation kit that uses a similar style with the flat spot on the shaft. The HSP crawler uses a similar design but has a plastic bit that slides on the shaft then the spur is screwed to it.

  17. #15
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    No metal upgrade gears that i can find for my model. There are for the similar Team Associated but the middle hole is slightly too small and i would need to get the slipper pads for that gear. Pricing isnt great either. Definitely no slipper eliminator that i can find for mine. Parts seem hard to find! Will have a look at the HSP crawler to see if any of its parts are useful. Looks like i'm just stuck playing by Thunder Tiger's rules. Will definitely do a bit more research before getting my next RC. As sad as it is, it may be a HSP or something with parts galore on eBay. I dont mind parts breaking and i expect it but, its hard to see my mate getting so many parts and so cheap. He breaks a main gear, he's able to easily order 5 more in a stronger compound. I break a main gear and theres only 3 places in Australia that even sell the replacement. He's able to go for steel and i have to cover a hole and hope for the best haha

    Will keep looking though! Must be someone out there with a similar thunder tiger with my frustration

  18. #16
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    Do you have a set of calipers? Can you measure the diameter of the shaft? And the thickness at the flat spot? And the total length of the entire slipper assembly from where it bottoms out to the end of the nut or shaft? Can can you post pics?

  19. #17
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    Dont have calipers im afraid, but could try to measure with a ruler but, i guess this is going to be highly inaccurate. It appears that T4 / B4 (Team associated) spur gears will fit. They might be expensive for steel ones but, might be worth looking into. They need to be drilled to 5mm but will then fit with their own slipper pads.

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