My 22 2.0 build thread - Page 3
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  1. #41
    Senior Moderator Vital-Blurs's Avatar
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    Hey, it's good to see that you haven't given up yet. The pic isn't showing up for me though. The url seems to work, but the img tags aren't. Make sure to copy the BBCode (for message boards and forums) rather than just the image link.
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  3. #42
    R/C Apprentice Mcyz250f's Avatar
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    hopefully it works this time. Might have been adblocks fault on my end.

  4. #43
    Senior Moderator Vital-Blurs's Avatar
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    Yeah that's better. So, is your sensor lead the one that's too short?....you've got plenty of length on the rest though.

    Mine ended up being laid out a bit differently due to mid-mount.....


    Right click, open in new tab for a better view.
    Last edited by Vital-Blurs; 01-04-2016 at 06:09 PM.
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  6. #44
    R/C Apprentice Mcyz250f's Avatar
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    That looks nice, very organized. The opposite of mine haha.

    The lead that is too short is the one from the esc to the reciever. It's stretched across the middle of the car, i think i can make it work with some fiddling.

    Theres just too much cord to organize. Majority of the cords are too long and others i just dont know where to put (capacitor thing, on/off switch)

  7. #45
    Senior Moderator Vital-Blurs's Avatar
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    If you rotate the receiver around 180ฐ you could run the lead along the right hand side of the battery. It doesn't matter if your antenna ends up being lower in the tube. You hardly even need the tube. Mine just sits there along the chassis. My capacitor thingy is stuck to the side of my ESC with double sided tape. Even the ESC itself is only held down with velcro. The switch I'd worry about last

    Ideally, you're supposed to shorten and resolder all of the leads once you know where everything is going to be placed, but you can always just bunch the stuff up and put a cable-tie around it. As long as the body contains it all
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  8. #46
    R/C Apprentice Mcyz250f's Avatar
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    Ah that makes sense, cheers.


    Am I reading correctly where the manual recommends a 35t pinion and the 70t spur for 17.5 racing?

    35t pinions seem rare and it seems like a strange ratio to me.

  9. #47
    Senior Moderator Vital-Blurs's Avatar
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    I'd follow the manual to the letter and then make changes to the pinion size later once you've done a few laps.
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  10. #48
    R/C Apprentice Mcyz250f's Avatar
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    Fair enough.

    I've worked it out to be just over $200 to get this buggy running and about $115 for the rusty.

    Now to decide which to get going first. I know this will involve a lot more work to get going than the rustler, but hopefully will last a bit longer (and if i do a good job drive better )

  11. #49
    R/C Apprentice Mcyz250f's Avatar
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    Anyone have a tip on how to sort out my toe and camber adjustments? they are at factory recommended length and as you can see from the picture of the rear above, they look wrong.

    The fronts I believe to be messed up because of the bell crank steering system I installed instead of the stock slider. There were no alternative measurements provided so I left them how they were.
    The rear however was all done to the manual's measurements. So seeing as I don't trust the measurements and I don't know how it will work out if I twist blindly is there a simple way to make sure they are straight?

    I will probably have to wait until I get a battery so I can make sure the servo is centered and then adjust the fronts.

  12. #50
    Senior Moderator Vital-Blurs's Avatar
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    What you've got in the rear there is some good old fashioned 'toe in'. Don't worry, it's meant to be like that. As the car takes off the two rears try to drive towards each other instead of being perfectly parallel, which actually helps keep the car heading straight and true. It's probably only a couple of degrees, but you can see mine are pretty similar in the pic above.

    A camber gauge is a pretty cheap tool. But if you can get the fronts somewhere close to stock, then we can fine tune it at the track.
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  13. #51
    R/C Apprentice Mcyz250f's Avatar
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    Alright then, the main problem with the fronts is that they are somehow facing in different directions despite being the same length. The left is pointing in and the right is pointing out. I'll just try to get them the same, and then bring it to the track.

  14. #52
    R/C Apprentice Mcyz250f's Avatar
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    I am expecting that I am wrong with this working but something seems wrong.

    the manual recommends a 35t pinion for 17.5, when that pinion is paired with the spur that gives me a ration of 2.0:1 correct?

    The instructions for the motor recommend a ratio of 6.0:1 which to my understanding means the pinion has to rotate 6 times for every one time the spur rotates. So thats around a 11-12 tooth pinion.

    Edit: Frank Root from Losi recommends starting with a 32t pinion so i think the manual is correct
    Last edited by Mcyz250f; 10-04-2016 at 09:30 PM.

  15. #53
    R/C Apprentice Mcyz250f's Avatar
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    Well i ordered my rustler parts as it's easier to get that running first.

    Also ordered the rest of the bullet connectors for the 22 so i should get that all soldered up in the next 2 weeks.

    Wont be long now, i also found a layout for the electronics that seems comfortable.

  16. #54
    R/C Apprentice Mcyz250f's Avatar
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    Well while I'm waiting to progress with the build I might aswell start thinking about a paint job.

    Need to think of something basic enough I can paint it, but unique enough I can see it easily.

    Decisions, decisions, decisions...

  17. #55
    Senior Moderator Vital-Blurs's Avatar
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    That's a fun part of the hobby. Any ideas yet?

    Bright colours at the front with darker colours to the rear is often the way.
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  18. #56
    R/C Apprentice Mcyz250f's Avatar
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    Thinking of challenging myself and doing a couple of colours. I've always liked the look of blue, black and white paint jobs so maybe something along those lines. Probably just mask off sections instead of trying to do intricate detail on my first shot.

    Should be interesting to see how it goes, especially as I don't have my spare body anymore. Sold it to fund the build

    Might do a mockup in photoshop first.

  19. #57
    R/C Apprentice Mcyz250f's Avatar
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    Sorry for being clueless,

    Which transponders work at arcr? Is this one right? http://www.amainhobbies.com/rc-cars-...10r078/p179554

    And I understand the surface isnt really broken in yet, but are holeshots still the go-to tires?

    Cheers

  20. #58
    Senior Moderator Vital-Blurs's Avatar
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    Yeah, Holeshots or similar are still a good choice. Maybe Scrubs or again something similar on the front. Changing to Barcodes towards the end of the day when the track grooves up is a popular choice already. I tend to just swap out to a set of mostly worn tyres for those late runs.

    As for the transponder, yes that'll work on our system as well as the older type of timing. You could get the 3 wire version if you want. They're a bit cheaper but only work on modern systems like ours. At least I'm pretty sure that's how they are.

    It might be prudent to actually walk into a hobby store like HobbyHabit or Modelflight and buy one from them on this occasion. They shouldn't cost any more than $130AUD. Whereas if you buy it from the US right now, it'll be more like $150AUD with the conversion rate.
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  21. #59
    R/C Apprentice Mcyz250f's Avatar
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    Might buy a few variations then, mix and match to find what I like.

    I'll try and head over to modelflight and see what they have. It's about time I started supporting the local shops.

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