Australian RC Forums banner

My 22 2.0 build thread

10K views 58 replies 4 participants last post by  Mcyz250f 
#1 ·
Well decided i may try to document my build progress up until i get the thing running.

Havent had and wont have a chance to build over the next couple of days, but come the weekend i should get it close to done. Also made this thread as i am expecting to run into issues that may arise with this being my first kit build.

Wish me luck!
 
#29 · (Edited)
Haha shock tower was most definitely my fault, the through screw however has been known to break on alot of people. I hear an associated one fits or i can buy a mip super diff

Going from doing things up on full scale to working on small scale doesnt translate so well, got to learn that in most situations snug is good enough
 
#32 · (Edited)
Yep sure is.

Definitely room for improvement. The instructions are sometimes too vague on the exact location of bolts and how tight they should be done up. I worked around those issues rather easily though. The bag layout is the biggest issue, i still have parts needed from bags that i opened 4 steps ago. Makes it hard to make sure i dont lose anything
 
#33 ·
Havent updated in a little bit.

Finally got the money to order my esc, motor, transmitter, and servo today. Modelflight were kind enough to refund me the hundred dollars that they dropped off the price of the 22 days after i bought mine. I guess losi is coming out with something new to have a price cut that steep

Now onto tires and batteries, plus a new shock tower :p
 
#34 ·
Wow a refund. I saw that price drop and I would've been fuming if I was you. Good of modelflight to come to the party though. Hobbystores dont make much money on selling vehicles more so on parts and the never ending accessories we all buy when we go there. I bet they are buttering you up knowing you have a kit that requires esc /motor etc.
 
#36 ·
Diff build is being difficult.


Im using an associated t-nut and diff bolt. I cant get the action to be smooth at all unless the diff is too loose. It feels lumpy when i turn it by hand when adjusted to have no slippage. Dont know what to do now....
 
#39 ·
Guess who's back :p

Havent really touched it since my parts arrived. Seeing as the rustler broke again I just focused on other things.

The diff is together, although I am not happy with it and will probably buy a gear diff before driving it. The tie rods and turnbuckles are no where near correct, wheels facing in all sorts of funky directions. That will take some fiddling to sort out. Also need to purchase a new shock tower since i split it, new servo horn(also split) and a battery and tires. still haven't soldered any of the connectors on and havent put the esc in yet (motor and servo are in).

Aside from that I will probably buy some new screws and attempt to remove the multiple that I stripped the heads on going in.

All in all I see this probably ending in a train wreck (or me taking it to a store and getting them to get it running), but I guess I will find out after the rustler is running again. Just haven't had the spare time or money to work on them with education and other not so fun stuff :)


Moving back to a farm soon so i will have plenty of land to construct a track on and bash around on (might go to a 1/5 scale for the bashing though as its a bit rugged, but that's a conversation for another thread). The track I built at another property that I dont live on is getting rather destroyed by the local kangaroo population.
 
#41 ·
Hey, it's good to see that you haven't given up yet. The pic isn't showing up for me though. The url seems to work, but the img tags aren't. Make sure to copy the BBCode (for message boards and forums) rather than just the image link.
 
#43 · (Edited)
Yeah that's better. So, is your sensor lead the one that's too short?....you've got plenty of length on the rest though.

Mine ended up being laid out a bit differently due to mid-mount.....


Right click, open in new tab for a better view.
 
#44 ·
That looks nice, very organized. The opposite of mine haha.

The lead that is too short is the one from the esc to the reciever. It's stretched across the middle of the car, i think i can make it work with some fiddling.

Theres just too much cord to organize. Majority of the cords are too long and others i just dont know where to put (capacitor thing, on/off switch)
 
#45 ·
If you rotate the receiver around 180° you could run the lead along the right hand side of the battery. It doesn't matter if your antenna ends up being lower in the tube. You hardly even need the tube. Mine just sits there along the chassis. My capacitor thingy is stuck to the side of my ESC with double sided tape. Even the ESC itself is only held down with velcro. The switch I'd worry about last :p

Ideally, you're supposed to shorten and resolder all of the leads once you know where everything is going to be placed, but you can always just bunch the stuff up and put a cable-tie around it. As long as the body contains it all ;)
 
#48 ·
Fair enough.

I've worked it out to be just over $200 to get this buggy running and about $115 for the rusty.

Now to decide which to get going first. I know this will involve a lot more work to get going than the rustler, but hopefully will last a bit longer (and if i do a good job drive better :) )
 
#49 ·
Anyone have a tip on how to sort out my toe and camber adjustments? they are at factory recommended length and as you can see from the picture of the rear above, they look wrong.

The fronts I believe to be messed up because of the bell crank steering system I installed instead of the stock slider. There were no alternative measurements provided so I left them how they were.
The rear however was all done to the manual's measurements. So seeing as I don't trust the measurements and I don't know how it will work out if I twist blindly is there a simple way to make sure they are straight?

I will probably have to wait until I get a battery so I can make sure the servo is centered and then adjust the fronts.
 
#50 ·
What you've got in the rear there is some good old fashioned 'toe in'. Don't worry, it's meant to be like that. As the car takes off the two rears try to drive towards each other instead of being perfectly parallel, which actually helps keep the car heading straight and true. It's probably only a couple of degrees, but you can see mine are pretty similar in the pic above.

A camber gauge is a pretty cheap tool. But if you can get the fronts somewhere close to stock, then we can fine tune it at the track.
 
#51 ·
Alright then, the main problem with the fronts is that they are somehow facing in different directions despite being the same length. The left is pointing in and the right is pointing out. I'll just try to get them the same, and then bring it to the track.
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top