I picked up a Savage XS SS kit a while back and have finally got around to putting it together yesterday
Tools required
*1.5, 2, 2.5mm hex tools
*5.5mm nut driver
*#1 phillips screw driver
*Pliers
*Side Cutters/wire cutters
*Body Reamer
*Body Scissors
the supplied tools are next to useless, and the aid of a cordless screw driver would be an advantage
Skill Level: Intermediate, definitely not a kit for beginners
Other Requirements:
*Motor
*ESC
*2 channel radio and receiver
*Servo (steering) spend the money on something descent, because changing this is going to be a PITA
*Tyre Glue
*Loctite
*Paint for the body
I had heard the Aluminum Gearbox plate was not altogether great so I picked up an after market one with a heatsink for it
One of the first things I noticed in the build...they separate the diffs...building them one at a time didn't make a great deal of sense, but I like to build from the manual to be able to comment on anything I find unusual or problematic
They also supply a set of (4) four CV shafts in the kit
The Diffs... out drive on both is floating back and forth by around 5~7mm, seems a little excessive, but there might be some reasoning behind it....I don't like it but haven't found a reason for it as yet
After assembling the front end and then the back end, you move onto the chassis, inserting the steering servo seems pretty normal, although further on in the build you find some servos are slightly deeper than others and this can interfere with the fitting of the protective cover....mine was one of these (I am trying a HK coreless HV servo)
Fitting the front and rear bulkheads (once completely built) also proves to be a PITA...by the time you get to this point, the chassis has already begun to be assembled and it is quite a tight fit and inserting the ends can be a little on the trying side of things
The radio box (water/dust proof) the seal is a total PITA, enough that I dropped it back in the box, I wont be going near water, and leaving it out means the servo wiring can be easily slipped into a better position to avoid the wiring being damaged by the gearbox out drive that sits just below it, and comes quite close to the wiring position
The gearbox comes per-assembled, but needing to change the plate, I had a chance to look about inside...seems moderately strong with some metal gearing, I was surprised to see they include 2 pinions (24 & 28) and both the stock and optional internal gear with extra bearings.
I have gone with stock to begin with, see how it goes
I have fitted a Hpi (re badged Castle) Motive ESC and 5700kv brushless motor as I am only going to use 2cell lipo
The Shocks are nice looking units, all aluminum with screw adjusters, the kit is supplied with 80wt shock oil (doesn't feel like 80wt, more like 35wt) and are easy to assemble and adjust....I am not entirely happy with the feel of them, but a drive should give me a better idea of whether they are ok or not
more to come once I have given it a test and finished the set up
Tools required
*1.5, 2, 2.5mm hex tools
*5.5mm nut driver
*#1 phillips screw driver
*Pliers
*Side Cutters/wire cutters
*Body Reamer
*Body Scissors
the supplied tools are next to useless, and the aid of a cordless screw driver would be an advantage
Skill Level: Intermediate, definitely not a kit for beginners
Other Requirements:
*Motor
*ESC
*2 channel radio and receiver
*Servo (steering) spend the money on something descent, because changing this is going to be a PITA
*Tyre Glue
*Loctite
*Paint for the body
I had heard the Aluminum Gearbox plate was not altogether great so I picked up an after market one with a heatsink for it
One of the first things I noticed in the build...they separate the diffs...building them one at a time didn't make a great deal of sense, but I like to build from the manual to be able to comment on anything I find unusual or problematic
They also supply a set of (4) four CV shafts in the kit
The Diffs... out drive on both is floating back and forth by around 5~7mm, seems a little excessive, but there might be some reasoning behind it....I don't like it but haven't found a reason for it as yet
After assembling the front end and then the back end, you move onto the chassis, inserting the steering servo seems pretty normal, although further on in the build you find some servos are slightly deeper than others and this can interfere with the fitting of the protective cover....mine was one of these (I am trying a HK coreless HV servo)
Fitting the front and rear bulkheads (once completely built) also proves to be a PITA...by the time you get to this point, the chassis has already begun to be assembled and it is quite a tight fit and inserting the ends can be a little on the trying side of things
The radio box (water/dust proof) the seal is a total PITA, enough that I dropped it back in the box, I wont be going near water, and leaving it out means the servo wiring can be easily slipped into a better position to avoid the wiring being damaged by the gearbox out drive that sits just below it, and comes quite close to the wiring position
The gearbox comes per-assembled, but needing to change the plate, I had a chance to look about inside...seems moderately strong with some metal gearing, I was surprised to see they include 2 pinions (24 & 28) and both the stock and optional internal gear with extra bearings.
I have gone with stock to begin with, see how it goes
I have fitted a Hpi (re badged Castle) Motive ESC and 5700kv brushless motor as I am only going to use 2cell lipo
The Shocks are nice looking units, all aluminum with screw adjusters, the kit is supplied with 80wt shock oil (doesn't feel like 80wt, more like 35wt) and are easy to assemble and adjust....I am not entirely happy with the feel of them, but a drive should give me a better idea of whether they are ok or not
more to come once I have given it a test and finished the set up