My name is David and I just entered the Electric RC community.
I can see how addictive it can already be.
It's like modding a real car or bike just on a more cheaper scale.
Anyway I've had a Nitro HPI savage XL for the last few years and never bother to use it because of the constant fine tuning, and headaches that come with it.
So I sold the Hpi and bought a used Traxxas E revo brushless edition.
It is all stock except for some truggy wheels.
Plan to do a few things to make it my own.
I still love the Raised monster truck look so I'll be raising it with the supplied hard springs and rockers.
New pro line shell
Pro line Trenchers 3.8 on Desperado Wheels
I've ordered a pair of zippy 2S 7400mah batteries
A pair of Zippy 3S 5000mah batteries
Received my 2x Zippy 5000mah 3S Batteries and gave them a good test run at the local track near my house, went well.
Although have an issue with my charger, I have a RC power BC6, plug in for lipo balance charge and I constantly get the error message Connection Break.
Not sure if its the batteries or charger
make sure it has 10+A charge rate. if not 20A.... then buy yourself a parallel charging board and you can charge both 5000mah packs at 10a for a nice quick charge.
make sure you do your homework on charging tho. especially parallel charging.
A bit of an update guys, haven't posted for awhile.
Ended up getting a Hobbyking touchscreen 10A charger.
New cheap shell for the e revo.
Issues I've had lately, slipper clutch not grabbing well so I tightened the spring loaded nut a bit and it's fine again.
But my biggest issue at the moment is range, it's got the stock TQI 5 channel receiver, as well as tqi transmitter with iPhone Dock.
I can't get past 20-30 metres before it cuts out and I have no control over the car. I've tried pulling the antenna lead through the blue tube with the metal end hanging out but still no Range.
I end up having to walk upto it before it reconnects, sometimes need to turn the transmitter on/off.
Having a few issues where the metal rods or swaybars keep popping out of the knuckleball joints.
It's not stripping the thread out of the plastic eyelets but it's always popping out.
Also in the market for a new charger. I sold my one to my cousin, looking at getting a cheaper 4 port charger with a hefty supply to charge the lipos I got.
Best way would be to set them up in sets of 2 in series and then parallel the lot together, that way you shouldn't need a resistor in line and the should work safely on 6v without damaging them....I do the same for the Baja's (4 lights) 2x series, and then parallel them together and run direct from the main battery, but you will be coming from the rx which has 5~6v supplied through the ESC's on board BEC
If you do the wiring nice and short, you will be able to feed just one piece of twin flex into the radio box and hook into it with a Futaba fitting direct into the rx for simple plug and play operation.....if you want to run a switch, you could also hide that neatly behind the bar and still just run the one piece of twin flex from the rx to the relay/switch
A simple rc switch is a small brushed esc. Use to be able to get gws 6 & 10 amp escs witch were about 5x10x4mm and weighed nothing this is what I used as a switch on my baja. Other than that if you get a micro servo you can remove the motor and hook the leds up to the output of the board. Not too hard to do. Just Google rc switch made from servo or something along those lines.
There is a switch available that allows the control of lights through an on/off channel (any spare channel basically)
I dont have the details handy, but can grab a pickie and description when I am at the shop on Saturday....unless of course I can find the one I have here (might be lucky)
In parallel, unless you run a resistor, you are likely to pop the LED's ( I think I saw you mention running a resistor)
But yeah, similar idea running all in parallel....I like the series set up because you can avoid the adding of extra electronics, which can sometimes be hard to hide or protect from damage
Good idea using the extension lead to avoid having to continually remove the receiver box cover for connection
I think you always need some sort of resistor running LEDs off power source. Doing a calculation I'll seen roughly a 22ohm resistor. So if I leave it at that it'll stay safe
Actually I don't. I'll take another pic of where i mounted it later. Basically where the rear body posts are, there's a tiny square channel right in the middle of them.
I mounted the switch there. Then I drilled a hole In the body for the toggle to pop out of.
Yep, know exactly where you mean, the square hole is the point they mount the electric starter wiring block on the nitro, but they make the same tower for both electric and nitro
So now I know not to let anyone else use my e revo, don't think they realise the power it's got on 6s.
Gave it to my little cousin and he shredded another tyre. So now I got no spare wheels or tyres.
I'm tossing up either get a set of genuine Emaxx brushless wheels and tyres or maximiser beadlocks with proline badlands or Trenchers.
But there just so expensive.
My Turnigy 4x6s 400w charger arrived, and I bought a Skyrc efuel 30A power supply to power it.
Still haven't run it for a few weeks. Just getting some cash together for some wheels.
Tossing up between the Axial oversized beadlocks with proline trencher X OR go for the pre glued Proline trencher X on desperado wheels for half the price.
All I need to complete now is Powdercoating the rear tie rods and arms to match the front, some new body posts and a new body and I'll be very content.
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