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Werks pro rc8t

18K views 110 replies 17 participants last post by  Sandman77 
#1 ·
Hey guys. Now i have officially gotten back into the hobby. this roller turned up yesterday. Took about 7 hours to fully check it over and get it to the stage of basically running just need fuel lines. (will get some fuel and lines tomorrow!)

Gearing atm is 13/54 as i cant fit any bigger size clutch bell on her. might have to get a smaller spur but it will be fine just for testing and a bit of bashing.

Ill let the pics do the talking.
BTW the roller came with about 3 sets of tyres and a few spares. so im pretty happy and all gears are in good nick :) needs a new body but it will do for now.

Sorry about the picture quality. One with body off was taken at night time with my iPhone.
cheers
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#73 ·
Haha thanks for the kind words snappy, and here I am, lol.
The stock gearing with the kit is 14/54, so in theory a 14t bell should fit. However as Snap said, that is a race setup, not designed for speed runs, more for hard acceleration out of turns.
Just a quick look in the back of the manual, they say that when running a .28 engine they run a 50tooth spur to get the extra speed cos of the lack of rpms. So I'd say listen to what towie said, 13t bell with a 50tooth spur.
What is the capacity and top rpm of your engine?
 
#74 ·
Well I am pretty keen on racing so I don't need a whole lot of speed but ATM it definatlely needs more. It rings out so quickly with this gearing. I reckon ill go with a 50tooth spur?

Also I'm not sure what the capacity of the engine is and top rpm?
Here's the engine if you want a look. http://www.werksracing.com/B7page.html
 
#76 ·
Do they race nitro truggies in Bundy?

What classes do they have?
 
#77 ·
That's a nice engine man. Do you have the older version or did you get the B7 pro? Doesn't really make that much difference here though. It's a .21 so should have plenty of rpm's.
Seriously though I reckon Towie is right on the money here. He would know way more about gearing than I would, and it seems like a 50tooth spur and 13tooth bell would be the way to go.
Best thing to do of course is take it to the track you'll be racing and see what you feel it needs once you're there.
 
#80 ·
This engine came with the st-1 used but in very good nick and alot of compression (very hard to turn over the flywheel by hand) from memory I can remember it having the pro written on the head. Ill have a look next time I'm home but I'm fairly certain it is as it had TL .21 so ill let you's know.
Yeah I reckon the 50t would be good and saves me having to take the clutchbell off.
Cheers
 
#82 ·
Got a wanted thread up for a 50tooth spur. Hopeful can get one ASAP in Australia. Ill pay the extra for express so it's quicker. Also need to find a dx3r 2.4ghz aerial as the previous owner took it off so he didnt snap it so now there's just the wire hanging out -_- looks crap so want an aerial.

Anyone got one?
 
#83 ·
DX3r is the same antenna as the majority of Spektrum radios, even the Losi radio (the grey ones with the red or blue centre) use the same antenna.

If you can find someone trashing a Losi stock 2.4g radio, you just need to strip it out...Gently nd then install into your DX3r, they are about $30 from most LHS.

Be gentle pushing the gold connector onto the circuit board, it must go on flat and fully seat
 
#84 ·
Hey guys. havent ran this guy for a while. going to take her out later today for another run at the park.
Just wondering if any of you guys would know, would the stock conversion kit for the rc8t/rc8 fit the BCE chassis? i cant see why not because i am tempted to convert as i dont use the nitro enough and cant just run it out the front of our house as the neighbours compalin lol.
cheers
matt
 
#86 ·
Nah if I sell the engine for around $150, starter box for $50 servo for maybe $50. That should give me close to the amount for the conversion, motor and esc. Then just need to save up a bit for batteries.

Can someone answer my question? If the AE conversion will fit on the BCE chassis? I'm assuming it will but need some backup to make sure it definately will.
 
#87 ·
If the car is using all the stock ae parts just bolted up to the BCE chassis and its all in the same position as the stock chassis then the answer is yes.
 
#89 ·
Brushless, u should just listen to me from the start :D
 
#93 ·
Cool, going with all genuine ae kit?

I might have a spare old motor mount but u would have to wait till july
 
#94 ·
Yeah may aswell. Keeps it a bit cheaper and will be a bit lighter than a Tekno kit.
Ill just buy the whole conversion kit but thanks anyways.

Ill put a link to the forsale thread for my engine when I put it up if someone is interested.
Thanks
 
#96 ·
Ok so I managed to find a 50tooth spur in Australia and a front chassis brace from the same guy. So I'm pretty happy so looks like it going to be staying nitro. Which isn't bad as the engine is running really well. Just the gearing needs fine tuning. Being express posted hopefully tomorrow!

One thing I did manage to break on the car when i was giving it a run the other day was the rear left drive shaft. The actual part of the drive shaft where the pin goes through a ball shaped end to slide in the diff cup has actually snapped off somehow and is still sitting in the cup with a free spinning axle. Only did a small jump and lost power to the rear and just all in general car was running slow and then noticed that. Lucky I have 2 spare shafts so will fix that whenever I get the time to.

In the mean time engine has been sitting with after run in it waiting for the new gearing to arrive. That reminds me I need new clutch shoes. These ones that are on there now are still useable but want new shoes to really make sure I'm getting the gearing right. Not a slipping clutch lol.

Where's a good place to buy clutch shoes in Australia?
As I need them before I get the spur so when I decide to remesh the gears I can replace the shoes while I'm there.

Ill get pics of the broken driveshaft whenever I decide to fix it. As everyone likes pics on threads :)
Cheers
 
#97 ·
I did the same thing with my cva shaft on the left rear yesterday. Good thing I had a spare too, so I could keep on racing.
 
#98 ·
Also, with the clutch shoes, you need to know whether it is running the team associated clutch or a different one like a werks or other brand clutch. The associated clutch has a different shoe and spring to all other standard clutches, so associated shoes won't work with non-associated springs.
 
#100 · (Edited)
The associated shoes and springs look like these
Shoes-
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product...ted-Factory-Team-Hard-Aluminum-Clutch-Shoes-3
Springs-
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product...887/n/Team-Associated-Clutch-Springs-09-RC8-3
The springs sort of mount under the shoes rather than through the top. If that makes sense? Lol.
Standard shoes are like these savage ones. These are plastic ones but you get the idea. You can see the difference.
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/WTI0001P?I=LXFXU7&P=8
A werks clutch has 4 shoes so its pretty easy to rule that out quickly.
 
#108 ·
no i quoted him, he "isnt into the hobby anymore" :p
 
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