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RC8T super slow build

12K views 48 replies 10 participants last post by  schmarkoDave 
#1 ·
Howdy ya'll

So I picked myself up this little fella yesterday.







Only cost me 150 and came with a bunch of other stuff. It's not immaculate, but I'm pretty happy with what I got.
It has an OS 30vg in it, came with an OS 21vz-b v-spec with snapped conrod and OS 28xz also with snapped conrod (sensing a general theme there anyone? lol)
Also has a starter box probably in need of rebuild and some receiver batteries etc. Most of it has been sitting for 3 years so may or may not be any good. We shall see.

Anyway the plan for right now is just to use it for spares for my race car and very very slowly rebuild it to finally be a going car as well.
I'll rebuild the 21 and maybe the 28 as well (so long as it's economical to do so) and then I can have my nitro fix again, lol.
Anywho, it's going to be a looooooong slow build, so I'll post up some progress from time to time.

Cheers
Dave
 
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#2 ·
Congratz.looks well used but it should clean up well. Actually I will be doing the same thing as you. Will be on a lookout for another RC8T which I will keep as a nitro. Not a racer or some big basher. Just an overpowered nitro for ****s and giggles and to prove I still have got the knack for nitro (some people think I don't :p). Probably go with a LRP .30 for my build as that is what I have had before and just loved the monster torque from that engine. Think I will have fun with it and hope you have fun with yours.

Sent from my GT-I9210T using Tapatalk 2
 
#3 ·
#4 ·
Hey you don't happen to know anything about using arrow engine parts in the OS 21vz-b do you?
I've read a few things saying some parts are a direct fit, just wondering if it's so.
 
#5 ·
Nah mate, plenty of experience with other OS engines but the 21VZ-B got released pretty much as I turned my back on nitro. Wouldn't be surprised though. I have seen plenty of people using other brands conrods or cooling heads on their donks. Bearings are another common part and same as carbs. Which parts do you need?

Sent from my GT-I9210T using Tapatalk 2
 
#8 ·
Yeah it was.
Were you looking at buying it too?
 
#9 ·
Well I won't be bothering to rebuild the 28xz, it would cost more than a new one, needs a new piston, liner, crank and rod. The rod isn't broken as first suspected, somehow the piston pin retainer clip has come out, and then the pin after it. There's no sign at all of either the pin or any bits of it, the conrod and piston are whole except for some score marks and such.
It's a little bit weird, lol. Kinda like the pin just magically launched out the exhaust port just as the piston passed it, lol.
 
#12 ·
So time for a little bit of an update, not much though.

What we have is not so much a build as much as a dismantle, lol. I started taking the car apart, and while I was doing it taking note of what bits needed replacing. There's a bit, but all in all it's actually in pretty good nick.
She's very dirty though


Now she's all in bits :D


I haven't taken apart the diffs yet, but they look good on the outside so far, not really any songs of major wear on the crownwheel or pinion, so that's a good start.
So anyway, now I have a lot of cleaning to do.
 
#13 ·
Picked up a bunch of spare parts off rctech, they arrived yesterday. Mostly I wanted the new parts which were cva bones, front and rear arms, Hd shock ends, exhaust gaskets, and a front centre and rear complete diff assembly that is either new or very near New anyway. I also bought a bulk lot of used parts, which had a ****load of stuff in it, some of which looks unused. And anything that is used doesn't look too badly worn, certainly better than some of the parts that were already on the car. So I'm happy with what I got.
Here's some piccies of after I sorted it all out.





I just doubled my cleaning job, lol.
 
#14 ·
Nice, how much u pay 4 all those parts of rctech?
 
#15 ·
It was $120 plus post so $136 all up. I looked at the prices of the stuff new and it makes it well worth my while I reckon.
 
#16 ·
Done a little bit of work on this lately, and I mean a little, lol. Washed all the parts, pulled the diffs apart, which are in surprisingly good nic, and ordered some o rings and gaskets for them. Once those arrive I'll be able to re-assemble the diffs and fit them back to the car.
I got some bearings and have started putting together what I can, not got real far yet, lol.
Also my engine arrived, looks pretty good sitting on the chassis :D
Anyway everyone loves pictures, so here ya go




Also picked up some bits from a fellow racer, including this adapter so I can fit the jconcepts or proline body to the old carbon fibre shock towers. Still tossing up whether I'll use it or make a carbon fibre copy (just to have that carbon look)

And speaking of carbon, I decided to modify this carbon radio tray so I can run the forward battery tray. I think it turned out all right.


I sliced the plastic lip off a plastic radio tray and super glued it to the bottom side. This lip is there for the battery tray to hook onto. Also had to drill an extra hole for a screw. We'll see how this holds up in a race situation, but I'm happy with it for now.
Anywho, that's it for now, I shall post when I have more.
Cheers
Dave
 
#21 ·
The chassis on this one is the one it came with, but the one I got for the basher was from Bretto. It's pretty worn but it'll be fine for the basher. I was gunna get it for the e-trug but I think I'll still look out for a better one for that. He also threw in some old wheels and tyres that'll be fine for bashing as well.
So all up I got the chassis, two sets of bash wheels/tyres, a set of 4 blue hex adapters, two rear carbon towers and a front carbon tower, a carbon radio tray, a plastic centre top plate (new), some aluminium centre diff carriers, the maifield edition body adapter, the steering posts for the basher, side chassis guards, and an aluminium steering top plate all for $30 :). He's a good bloke ol bretto.

On the losi, yeah you would assume a 3.0 truggy would come out soon. Maybe its just cos I'm into truggy and not so much buggy, but it kinda annoys me a bit that buggy is always given precedence over truggy, I guess it will always he that way though.

@froggy, were you looking at the truggy to race or to just to bash?
 
#25 ·
Thanks mate, I'm pretty keen to have it running too. I've certainly managed to get plenty of well priced stuff so far. I think the servos and receiver will actually be the most expensive parts of the car, lol.

@froggy - maybe best to find someone selling an ex racer 2.0. I know James, goes by shimano on here, was looking at selling his truggies. Probably will be an influx of 2.0s on the market when the 3.0 gets released. If you're set on losi that is.
 
#27 ·
Fair enough, wouldn't think there'd be too much shared between 10th scale and 8th scale, but I could easily be wrong (wouldn't be the first time, lol). Nothing wrong with losi though. I think I'm just a bit of an associated guy now, lol. That said I saw a hobao/ofna hyper st pro truggy yesterday and man they are one strong looking beast. Everything about it just screamed strong, lol. Look like they'd make a very strong basher. I think snap used to have one...if I'm not mistaken.
 
#29 ·
Is that the one b-money has now? Doesn't sound like a bad deal. Are they as strong as they look?
 
#30 ·
Ye I sold it the Ben years ago. He give it a fair hard time after converting to brushless. He has a couple vids of it running mamba monster 2200 on 6s.
I never broke anything when I owned it but I did have a problem with the front cvd popping out.
Also bending front Cvds.
Other than that were faultless.

I got a mini hyper st now.
It seems tough also.
 
#31 ·
That crazy little midget thing you had at the track one time? Man that was zippy. All the hyper st's on gumtree are going for heaps.




On a side note, it seems the starter box I got with the car works. It'll be interesting to see how it goes trying to turn over an engine. When I bought the car the guy said it wasn't working as well as it used to, but that it worked fine when he hooked it to a car battery, which I realised the other day is only 12v. So I'm guessing his starter box battery was dead rather than the starter box itself. I plugged my charger leads into my battery and touched them on the appropriate poles on the motors and it all spun over, so I'm hopeful :D
 
#32 ·
Got some progress. Been working on putting this together for the last few days. Assembled the diffs and filled with oil, went with the same setup as my e-truggy, 7k front, 15k centre and 3k rear, might not be the best setup for nitro but we shall see how it performs. Diffs have all new o rings and seals, and shimmed up nicely. New lower arms. It's all come together rather well and considering the age of some of the bits there's hardly any slop at all in the car.
At the moment the centre diff is just sitting there for the photos, gotta modify the centre diff riser to be like the new style, as this has the old style. Shocks will stay off until the car is pretty well ready to go, no point in having them on there stressing the arms when I don't need them yet.
Here's a couple of progress pics for the picture hungry :D

 
#34 ·
Yeah only problem is now comes the most expensive bit, lol. 2 x servos, which if I go with the hitecs are $115 each (unless I find them cheaper) and a Futaba r614fs receiver for my 4pk which can be anywhere from $130 upwards, lol.
The electronics will be the most expensive part of this car, lol.
 
#35 ·
U can get futaba rx from hobbyking, well for my futaba 3pm x I did, it was a bit different but it binded fine

That's fasst to, was about $27
 
#37 ·
Yeah I know about the orange rx's, just wasn't sure if I wanted one for my race car though. I might look into it a bit more though.
 
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