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Thread: DIY: Tips,Tricks+Mods
28-08-2005, 11:42 PM #1
- Join Date
- Jun 2004
- Rep Power
Ok, this thread is for any tips, tricks or mods you have done to your vehicles which can be applied to almost any brand vehicle with similar features.
Its not really for mods which are only good for a specific vehiclebecause i'd like everyone to be able to contribute to this thread and find something usefull for their brand truck/buggy etc. Post pics if you can.
DIY Brake improvement. #1
get an old servo saver and remove the spring. cut off about 20mm of coils off and fit it to your brake rod in place of the fuel tube. The spring is stiffer for better brake force but also gives a smoother, more predictable brake feel as it does compress.
DIY Brake Improvement #2.
find a pen and remove the spring from it and cut the first few coils off each end because they are useless.
Measure the thickness of your brake disc(s). (example: 3mm)
cut the spring in half and gently compress it with pliers, and measure its length when fully Compressed. trim one coil off at a time until the compressed thickness of the spring is slightly less than your brake discs thickness. You want 2x cutdown springs of correct size(ie: if your brake disc is 3mm thick, make the springs compressed thickness 2mm or 2.5mm)
its important to check the lcompressed ength because too many coils when compressed will prevent the pads engaging on the discresulting in brake failure
place the cut-down springs on the brake adjuster bolts so they are between the brake pads, pushing them apart.
The springs push your brake pads apart giving less brake drag becausethey disengage quicker and smoother, and also allow smoother brake engagement with more feel to brakes..
Lost Antenna cap fix
use a short length of fuel tube on the end of your antenna tube to prevent the antenna wire being broken.
Fuel Tube + Radio/servo wire tidy-up
you can buy little S shaped clips from hobby shops (ofna cars have them standard) which clip on fuel tube to keep both fuel/pressure lines together neatly.
Go to jaycar or any other electrical shop and buy Spiral Wrap. you put it around your servo + battery wires to keep them bunched together while also giving them added protection.
please contribute with any cool ideas or tricks you have but keep chat/ offtopic talk to a minimum, i would like this thread to become full of usefull info for everyone and free of mindlessjibberish/spam
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28-08-2005, 11:57 PM #2
Goodthread oblivion..The simple tips are often the best ones to make your r/c handle better and save you some $$ too.Savage 3 speed Infinity 32R-Z- Savage Flux XL - Savage Flux - Savage XS - E-Revo BL- Traxxas Summit BL - TT ST1 BL - TT MT4 G3 - Kyosho Mad force LE - Wild Willy 2 - Tamiya CR01 - Smash Shark BL.
29-08-2005, 12:24 AM #3
Header retainer spring</span> - Ever
had your header leak oil and smoke everywhere on the exhaust port of
the engine and make things dirty? Snip some of the end off your spring
that holds it on and bend the hooks yourself. itll provide a tighter
Pullstarting for beginners</span> -
Kneel down beside your truck, on the engine side. Crouch over your
truck til your chest is about 20cm away from the engine head, and begin
pulling the cord to start the engine. If you are doing it right, youll
be hitting yourself in the chest each time you get to the top of the
stroke, and not snapping your pullstarter cord. As you train your arms
muscle memory with time, you can stop doing this though, as youll
automatically know where you should stop pulling.
Twizms Ultra Prime</span> - Simply
fuel up, remove the exhaust end of the pressure line, and blow into it
whilst holding the the throttle wide open. Once you see it enter the
carby, blow for one more second, close throttle, stop blowing, and
start the engine (see 'pullstarting for beginners) once you re-attach
the pressure line to the nipple on the exhaust pipe.
Body pins</span> - Put them in a vice
or a strong set of pliers, with the ring end facing out of the vice.
Whack it with a hammer so that its bent up on the ring end,
making it easier to pull off in a hurry.
<br style="font-weight: bold;">
Setting your Servo trims</span> -
Unscrew and detach all your servo horns from the servos, and turn on
the radio gear. Set your throttle trim and steering trim to 0 and
re-attach the servo horns at the manual suggested angles (savage
throttle and steering is 90 degress or '3 o clock', unless using ofna
steering/throttle linkages in which case its based on best fit, OTHER MODELS WILL VARY</span> - CHECK YOUR MANUAL FOR CORRECT SET UP</span>)
Filling your shocks</span> - Make sure
the shock shaft is fully extended, and begin filling. Fill until there
is a slight concave or 'bowl' like look at the very top of the shock,
and replace shock cap. If it is a slight dome look, too much oil, drain
Antenna tubes</span> - They snap,
kink, bend, disappear. Cut the tube (without the antenna wire inside
it!!) to the height that it is just inside the body. Take 1 inch of
fuel tubing and slide it over the tube until its about half way inside
the fuel line. Get the other half that you cut off the antenna tube,
and insert that into the fuel line. You now have a flexible elbow in
your antenna tube for those nasty landings. It wears out after a while,
but its cheap and easy to do.
Rebuilding</span> - When it comes to
rebuilding something like a diff, transmission or other high-friction
area, degrease it completely. The gears, the case, the pins, bearings
etc etc etc. The grease that was there is holding all the metal
filings, dirt, dust, and particles thats damaging your gears, seals and
bearings. Always use clean, fresh oil or grease, and where possible
replace O-rings. CRC contact cleaner does this really well, so does air
filter cleaner or brake fluid. or just typical engine degreasing stuff.
Gluing tyres</span> - This is hard,
especially when using thin, runny, instant adhesive glue such as ZAP
CA. what i like to do is assemble the rim and tyre without glue, and
then get your needle nozzle that is attached to the Zap bottle. just
insert it into the bead of the rim, apply light pressure to the bottle
and travel around the bead until youve done the full circle. To make
sure you get a good grip, push the tyre into the bead for about 30sec
to a minute. I dont do this often, but it works when I do. Loctite 481
(black stuff, code might be wrong though) is a much better tyre glue,
just be careful, it strips color from rims and stains (its black, duh)
easily. Takes a long time to set, but Ive never had a tyre come off
once since using it. Perfect viscosity (thickness/runnyness) too.
Will add more as I think of them at a later date. Good thread idea Bliv![i][b]Born to Grind, Built to Blast[/b][/i]
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29-08-2005, 01:34 AM #4
- Join Date
- Jun 2004
- Rep Power
this one works for those who trim a new body beforethey paint it:
keep all the old lexan scraps from your newly trimmed body. those peices come in handy for repairing rips when the body gets old. you can also use a cleaned coke bottle for body repairs on curved areas.
Body clip/Body protectors
You can also cut those lexan scrapsinto 20c peice sized (1") circles or squares and put a body post hole thru the middle, you can use them on your body, under the body clip. This prevents body clips sharp ends ripping or tearing through your body and being clear makes them invisible in pictures! - or you can use something like these plastic body washers which do the same job but are less attractive.
once your truck is running sweet and youhave the body on, get pliers and bend the end of the bodyclip where it exits the bodypost. A little kink will make it harder toslide out and get lost (straighten it slightly to remove)
Squeeze all the air out your fuel jug before putting the lid on to keep your fuel fresh for longer. Storing it in a cool, dry place out of sunlight and NOT on a concrete floor also helps.
Get a magnet from any old speaker (or elec RC motor) and when yourtaking your truck apartthrow all your screws, clips etc on it so they dont get lost or roll away - like wheel hex pins do
I keep all my hex keys on a magnet so its easy to grab them all, and it keeps them magnetised. Throw a magnet on any of your popular tools (screwdrivers or ball-hex's) to magnetise them also! Edited by: Oblivion
01-09-2005, 11:41 PM #5
- Join Date
- Aug 2005
- Rep Power
ok i posted this in another section but ill post it here to as i think its bloody great...
ok while i was out bashingyesterday i blew out the tops of 3 shock towers. i re-oiled them and put them back together but found the thread on the head was buggered on all of them. these are the standard plastic shocks on my t-maxx. well i found an excellent way to repair this problem and make them better than ever. this might have been said before but ill tell you all how i did it anyway.
i went down to my local electronics store and purchased a length of 2 layer heat shrink. it must be 2 layer as this stuff has a glue compound on the inner side that adheres when you heat it up.
I simply re-loaded my shocks as normal and cut a length of shrink long enough to go from the top of the cap lid to about 3 or 4mm below the base of the head down the shaft. you can make this as long as you want as it will save you using clip on spacers. the heatshrink must be tight enough so you can just push it on the shock. then all you do is heat it up with a lighter, let it cool and you have a shock that will take a huge amount of pounding. i redid all my shocks like this and bashed for over 4 hrs today and the shocks to the beating. they even outlasted my battery and reciever box lol. so if you cant afford new alloy shocks this is a good cheap fix...
02-09-2005, 11:35 AM #6
- Join Date
- Apr 2005
- Rep Power
Great Idea Oblivion, this will be a useful resource for both new and
Sonic, could you post here that grease you mentioned @ Hoppers
which you use for your diffs. I think you said it was about $10 a tub.
Maybe once a month the moderators can filter through this post and
keep it as a tech resource database and catagorise it in orders such
as engine / handling / electrics etc?
08-11-2008, 02:09 PM #7
- Join Date
- Jun 2005
- Australia - Perth
- Rep Power
Tips n trix - Uniflow mod
This may be old news to many but i'll sling it up on the board anyways for anyone who hasnt heard of it.
I have only done this to my revo fuel tank and so far seems to work a treat. I did this for my TM323 and has solved the left/lean - right/rich fuel issue.
You'll need some extra fuel tubing, an exhaust pressure nipple and something to enlarge the vent hole in the cap to accept the pressure nipple. If not enough room some modification might be in order, just dont destroy it.
1-->Ensure the tank is empty before you remove it from the vehicle, you'll need to clean it anyways as it should be filthy dirty (you do bash hard dont you).
2-->Remove the filler cap from the tank, check the location of the vent hole so it has enough clearance around the hole to allow fitment of the pressure nipple.
3-->You'll need to drill out the vent hole so the pressure nipple will screw into it. http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...pple&search=Go
Remove any plastic shavings or debris that might clog the vent hole. Thread in the nipple, pliers or a small socket will do the trick.
4-->All you need to do now is cut off a length of fuel tubing that reaches the lowest part of your tank. Please cut the bottom of the piece of tubing at an angle so it will not form a seal of any kind on the bottom of the tank. Some trial and error is needed but you'll get there in the end.
5-->Now your ready to reassemble and reinstall.
The only downside to this mod is that after priming the engine for the first time, excess fuel may be forced out of the pipe. This can be a little messy.
The UPside though is that the truck runs hard n fast from full tank to empty without a hint of rich or lean anywhere in the tank, even to the very last drop.
TwinAddicted to NITRO
08-11-2008, 05:21 PM #8
Not sure if this is the right place to post but I stubbled on this repair material,Q-Bond it glues just about anything.
Purchased from a local Repco spare parts store not cheap but its good,$30 for a couple of little bottles.
Just used it to build up a couple of plastic rear wing brackets that I seem to brake every outing good as a glue or filler and you can sand/file and drill it within seconds.
Apparently good for plastic,steel and aluminium.
I'm sure I'll start to use it on steering things like servo horns and the like at the track.Banksy
Amain C2 Bluedot
25-03-2012, 07:47 PM #9
I broke the roll pin in my slash 2wd maind drive shaft, (the shaft that the spur gear is mounted on) The shaft turns a gear which turns the idler which then turns the diff. I used a body clip, just cut it down to the right length and squeezed it in to replace the roll pin. I then had a problem of the gear riding up the pin and spinning on the shaft so I used a 2mm shim to preload the tension placed against the pin and hold the gear in the right place. saved heaps of frustration of pulling the transmission down and pushing the gear back on to the pin, becomes a huge pita after the first few times!There is no motivator quite like obsession.....
Traxxas Slash 2WD CC3800kv, Slash 4WD CC2200Kv, Ken Block 1/16, Thunder Tiger MT4-G3
25-03-2012, 07:59 PM #10
old thread -
ive done something similar before, cept i used an old allen key and cut a bit ofAssociated Rival / Associated SC8.2E / Traxxas E-Maxx / Traxxas E-Revo / Thunder Tiger Mt4 G3 / Thunder Tiger ST4 G3 / HPI Savage Flux / Hpi Savage Xs / Traxxas Rustler VXL / Tamiya Gold TA05 VDF Drifter / Axial Exo Terra Buggy
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