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How To: Fix a lexan body

6K views 9 replies 8 participants last post by  bennyd 
#1 · (Edited)
I started fixing the bodies for my slash today, so I thought I'd share how I did it.

First up you need:
Shoe goo or something similar
Drywall/plasterboard tape
Drill
Fluid Material property Liquid Gas Measuring instrument

Like most SCT owners will know the bodies cop a huge battering. Heres my stock body after nearly 2 years.
Hood Trunk Automotive design Motor vehicle Vehicle

First up clean your body. The cleaner it is the better everything will stick.

This is the crack I'm fixing, on the front left guard
Tints and shades Wood Wing Rectangle Carmine

Next, get the crack you want to work on and find the end of the crack and drill a small hole on the end. This is to stop it from spreading.
Automotive exterior Gas Tints and shades Electrical wiring Bumper

Automotive tire Tints and shades Wire Rim Twig

Next get the drywall tape and cover the crack. The tape should stick although I had a bit of trouble getting it to stay in one place, especially over curves.
Hood Automotive design Mesh Material property Glass

Put some shoe goo on the tape and use your finger to spread it round the tape. A bit of water on your finger helps here.
Shoe Automotive lighting Automotive design Flooring Automotive exterior

Walah now wait till it dries, which is about 24hrs according to the tube.
Water Liquid Fluid Automotive exterior Hood
 
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#3 ·
You could try patching it up and redrilling the hole.

Anyway, this stuff is the bomb. Rob and I tried it on a cheapo body just to see how it felt and with just 1 layer, it was heaps strong. I've got the stuff to do it at home and once I get home (next weekend), I'll definitely be patching all the weak points in every RC body I have.
 
#4 ·
For a quicker set with shoo goo, apply gentle heat from a heat gun, the shoo goo will skin in a couple of minutes and be completely dry within a few hours...I am impatient and wanted a faster curing method for the shoo goo, so I tried a few different ideas...the heat gun worked best, the shoo goo will bubble if over heated, but will dry out and set properly just the same.

I generally go around all the obvious looking weak spots in a shell from new after it is painted, making sure I cross over near body posts and open sections around wheels, this prevents the bodies cracking in big hits.
 
#6 ·
Shoo Goo is great, another alternative to the dry wall is some left over Lexcen and use the same method as above. It works especially good with buggered body mount holes, just goo the lexcen over the old holes, let set, then redrill hole.
 
#7 ·
Thanks heaps guys, I tried fixing my stock Slash in the last couple of days just to see how it went, and althougha rough job just ran 2 packs through it at knox tonight and works perfectly..

Just a tip, dont get Selly's Shoe Glue, it is brown nto clear and strips the paint from the body, personally i am not worrie don my current shell, but in future i will use the Shoo Goo with hopefully better results.
 
#8 ·
I've been using Shoo Goo for RC's for the last few years.

I actually have repaired shoes with it once or twice, too!

Last few tubes I got from Rebel Sport.

Cheers,

Steve
 
#9 · (Edited)
After being pointed to this topic by Sandman, i thought i might post one of my pictures showing my handy work with Shoe Goo and how strong the stuff actually is.

Have done many repairs on my latest RRV4 body, in fact some were from before the 2012 1/5 Nationals in Qld, that held up really good... only problem, as you see from this pic the old cracks that i repair don't budge, but i end up getting new bigger ones...



Was wondering how the hell can i repair it now with that gaping hole.... well decided to use the same method and it worked awesomely....



Stopped racing that car only just recently too.... last race was Sept 2012 at SSME.
 
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