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airbrush cleaning and maintenance

11K views 54 replies 6 participants last post by  Big boyz toyz 
#1 ·
hey guys, having some trouble with my airbrush, just wondering what i should be doing and using

there must be a bit of paint inside it, soon as i chuck the needle in, nothing comes out, and it sometimes comes out when i dont have the needle in at all (water that is), then it seems to clog and nothing comes out, ive tried putting the airbrush cleaning stuff that it came with (some kind of soapy stuff) leaving it in thinners overnight, should the water just trickle through with no needle in it?

took me ages to get the thing back together, i mainly use parma paints so its all water based, last time i used it took like 3 days 4 me to get it clean to use, im trying glitter with some clear coat.
 
#2 ·
Sounds like you have got a bit of paint dried inside the airbrush. Thinners usually softens the old paint, and then running a pot of thinners through under pressure will generally blow the crap out of the gun, you will need to keep removing the nozzle to clear the residue from it.

In some cases, the paint dries inside the gun and it becomes impossible to remove, is it an expensive airbrush?
 
#3 ·
Get yourself some Createx Airbrush restorer and give the AB a soak (up to the top of the paint cup, try and keep the trigger out) for 10-15 minutes. You will.be amazed at the crap that comes off/out. This can even remove dried AB paint.

Glitter paints will clog the AB more. What AB are you using? What nozzle size? What psi are you spraying at? How olds the paint?
 
#5 ·
it is a iwata CR, its got a 0.5mm nozzle

cant remember what psi i was using, i eneded up turning it up to 50-60 to see if i could blast it out, paint would be maybe 1 1/2 years old, its parma faskoat so its very runny compared to the other paints

where abouts do u get that Createx Airbrush restorer from? also what is that paint like?
 
#4 ·
this happened to me a while ago, tooks days to fix, can i leave it in thinners a few days before and after i wanna use it?

its an iwata hp cr i think, iwata anyway, so was $110 i think
 
#6 ·
I wouldn't recommend it. Prolonged soak in thinners can damage the seals in your AB.
I usually put a drop or two of Auto Air 4011 reducer (I only use createx/wicked paints) in my paint cup after cleaning. Helps stop any paint drying in the AB in case I missed any while cleaning.
It works well for my Iwata Kustom micron CM and CH anyway.

Try thinning your paint more (to the consistency of 2% skim milk is usually good) and raising the psi?
 
#9 ·
hey ben, do u have any photos i could look at? of wicked or createx?

is createx water based? and wicked isnt?

how would wicked compare to spazstix

i like spazstix but am finding to dear and hard to get a hold of
 
#11 ·
Createx and wicked are both water based, wicked just has better, finer pigments in it and can be reduced a LOT. Even up to an 800% reduction.

I've used both on RC bodies with no problems to date.


I did this shell with wicked white and black.
The window tint is just very over reduced black at about a 5(reducer):1(paint) ratio.

I like wicked and createx because I also do a lot of canvas, engine covers, bowling pins, t-shirts, beer fridges, metal panels, tailgates, mail boxes and I even did a true fire flame job on a whiskey bottle once.

Spazstix does flow very nice and easily (no reducing) but createx and wicked can do just as well once you've figured out a reduction ratio that works for you.

I'm now thinking about getting some House of Kolor automotive paints.
Pricey but worth it.
 
#14 ·
If you're not using metallics, scuff the body (except the windows) with a scotch brite.
Mark your body posts and any other holes neefed then drill them or use a body hole reamer.
Put masking tape over the holes on the outside of the shell.

Clean it with warm soapy water and a paper towel.
Once cleaned avoid touching the inside of the shell with bare hands. (I wear latex gloves from now till I'm finished painting the body.)

Mask off your shell or apply liquid mask.

Paint.
 
#15 ·
Cool thanks, I wasn't sure if prepsol or something like that was needed... (never painted lexan before) figured it would pay to ask before potentially melting a body :cool:

When painting metallics you just skip the abrasion step?
You inspired me last night to pick up some of this -
http://www.airbrushmegastore.com/in...rt&page=shop.browse&category_id=1204&Itemid=1

I will most likely play around with it a bit before I try to paint the body but any tips are always welcome :cool:
 
#19 ·
Paint test success :D

This is my third test attempt...

It's basically white paint that lights up with blue flames in sunlight :cool:

Miniature scale flames are a pain in the @$$ but hopefully it will look sweet as on the car body.

Due to the nature of the paint it is rather difficult to get a photo that shows the effect but these should give you an idea.

Hood Paint Rectangle Automotive exterior Wood
Water Sky Wood Tints and shades Space
Rectangle Wood Electronic device Art Plastic
Hood Automotive lighting Rectangle Tints and shades Road surface
 
#20 ·
thats the hot rod blue? it looks very transparent

looks interesting, cant wait to see how it all turns out
 
#24 ·
#27 ·
i backed it with a water based black, the paint looks very blue and gold in the bottle
 
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