Guys i thought i'd start a thread where any1 could ask questions to baja related problems and maybe for the experienced guys to add tips and tricks. Also to post some helpful vids and how to's.
Ive been speaking to Shreadhead from hbf, The guy really knows his stuff. I watched this baja diff rebuild and was pretty impressed. It makes the diff smoother/less crunchy and lasts longer!. Green slime on the way, he reckons its awesome for orings......
I started with Dirt Buster Ribs on the front and Dirt Buster Blocks on the rear and it seemed to handle quite well, you could use a bit throttle to get it sideways, but after replacing the rear Dirt Busters with MX Knobbies, I cant get it to turn in to corner with any throttle at all. Is this purely a need for a similar front tyre, or can this be fixed by adjusting my suspension set up, ride heights or toe ins? Thanks Lee.
Seems that the change in tires could have created more rear end grip in the surface you drive on, causing your front end to understeer (or push) through the corners. What rear toe blocks are you running on the rear? And what are you steering linkages set at?
Also, I take it the only thing you did was change your tires - nothing else?
Yes mate changed nothing else but tires. I have no idea about what rear toe blocks are in it, standard I would think, although it looks like it has quite a bit of toe in. I've never even heard about setting steering linkages?
im running the the hostile mx's, and find with the bow tie fronts it handles pretty good , i run on hard pack and grass and have no handling issues so far , except for when the hard pack is ultra dry and even then they are not too bad . I am running a pretty soft suspension setup with 2 degree rear hostile hubs..
Yeah me too big g. I run bow ties on the front and mx on the rear, soft setup etc. The only difference is I run the hostile 4 degree hubs at the rear. I find it handles great.
depends mate, how the car is setup and what surface you run on.
Mark, we run 2 degree of toe. but we race on hardpack. 4 degree toe will be easier for you to drive (more forward bite), If your finding it hard to control on power going to 2 degree will make that worse. Give it a try though, only takes 5 minutes to change the toe blocks.
Thanks homer, your the go to guy for me, so good tips. And watched the video, so when I put in my turtle tranny case, I planned on rebuilding diff, but will do it as the video says.
Wow big difference between 75 and 1000 and 3000 wt lol i'd assume the thicker oil 75wt? would make the diff more like an LSD and both put the power down better and hold it sideways more? this would mean the thinner oil would help corner better wouldnt it -.- ohh this thinking is starting to hurt.
Close, Higher the number thicker the oil lol. M-E's oil would be like water, Im going to try 3000wt for something different. been told its a good balance.
Thinner sounds like it would suit angie more, i like to be a bit tail happy so i may try thicker if i go for the smoother rebuild. lol next on the list find the oil, O rings and green goo
Put a slot in it with a dremel or another type of rotary tool using a cutting disc.
Also using a screw driver and a hammer, give it a whack to loosen the screw and then with the flat head driver you should be able to get it out nice and easy
Note - you can re-use this bolt as it is fine with the slot cut into the head (just make sure you don't go too deep)
Cheers mate
EDIT: Do what Global says! I didn't read the next page of this thread!
If you cant get a rotary blade to it, you can find a slightly larger Allen key bit or torx bit and hit it in with a hammer, once its in there tight i'd probably use a screwdriver fitting rather than a drill or cordless screwdriver as i find you are less likely to round it again.
Again this option does mean the screw is still able to be used should you not have a replacement.
Yep, the dreamie dremel! I have wanted one for a while, now I have it I'm kicking myself I didn't get it ages ago. So many jobs I have done to the baja that were a pita would have been easy if I had one! There is the tip... Every rc owner needs a dremel!!
Just a little tip to contribute to the thread. I have had problems in the past with the E-Clips popping out in a stack. I Now use a Dab of windscreen silicon on all E-Clips and have had No Problems.:thumb:
The windscreen Silicon Sets like a hard rubber and that's why i use it
Hey Homer, good post that first one. Just finished putting my diff back together with some 3000w oil and thought id check the washers that the bevel gears sit on. They were all around the other way so i flipped em' around (didn't pull it right down to check the other two) filled her up with oil and i can notice a large improvement. Look forward to trying the 3000wt oil...
ive realised that dirt busters and hb khaos tyres just limo,well my baha just limos all over the place and another tip, to get ur diff 99% full fill asmuch up as u can and then leave 1 ofthe pin set screews off, hold your diff on an angle with the hole up and rotate the shafts lets the bubbles rise and more diff fluid through the hole n bobs ur uncle oh and im using 1000wt
By limo do you mean the diff unloads to one side or you are powerskidding all over the place?
Also, the diffs are designed to be half filled with diff oil, but I cant see a problem with filling it up all the way, it will just make the action heavier
I was looking around on RC hobbies and found the bad dog dogleash...... i wouldnt pay 30 bucks for it however i'm sure that if you have an old dog leash you can tie/clip the end onto something on the front or rear of your baja to drag it back to the car, this would be more for bashing as you wouldnt run across a track dragging a baja behind you.
i thought that this wouldnt work if lets say you seized your motor or blew up your diff but you just tie it to the back and lift the back wheels a bit, still easier than carrying the baja from your bash spot back to your car.
Originally posted else where by Mr.Baja, I thought it was too good a tip to let get lost.
A nice usefull trick!
after hours of smashing my head against the wall trying to figure out how to get a broken ball end from an allen key out of my bolt i figured that if i heat it up with a soldering iron and then melt the solder on it and allow it to cool with the solder still attached to the ball then you can lift it out, same principal as welding a rod or another bolt to a rounded off bolt on a big car, save some headaches if your dumb enuf (like me) trying to crack pinion holder bolts with a ball end key from supercheap lol
If you need to replace your main chassis, instead of totally pulling your Baja to bits.
Just leave all that stuff bolted on to the rear chassis plate and to remove it in one easy step, simply remove the 4bolts that hold the rear chassis plate to the main chassis and then bolt it too ya new one.
Hi guys, a newbie here lol, i have a 30.5cc baja that is hard to start and when running it dies pretty quick, takes a lot of priming to get it going again and still dies, it has a new spark plug and ignition coil and has good spark, i am leaning towards a carby issue? seems to have a hard time getting fuel up to the spark plug, sadly it is a king motors 3.0 baja, i couldn't afford a real one but it has a lot of alloy upgrades. any help is appreciated.
possibly no comp in the engine?
when you grab the pull start how much of the baja lifts off the ground? If the cord just comes out with virtually no effort its probably time for a rebuild.
Also do these use a pulse from the engine to pump the fuel as some walbro carbys work that way? If so that may explain lack of fuel.
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