Australian RC Forums banner

Billys new toy

25K views 91 replies 22 participants last post by  stephoon 
#1 · (Edited)
Just picked up my new mcd v3.This is going to be my new car for the summer series at sols,yes I know we've just started winter but I already have the redcat and baja for those so this is going to be built up in the coming months.At the moment it is just a roller so here are pics of it today I will add pics and posts as I add the other bits,at the moment it is just on 8kg.:preggers:
 
#29 ·
I hope you mean weight wise the difference is 120g heavier with the alloy.It just replaces the radio,brake,steering pieces.Remember mine is a v3 not v4 you really dont need to but they were just a bit to flexible for my liking especially the steering tray,but thats just my personal view.I did'nt have a great look at Beats Me v4 at the last open day so maybe the v4 has a more solid type plastic.Hope this answers your question.
 
#30 ·
Well after going out and watching Duddy race yesterday all I have done is put on all the alloy bits and mounted the two 5745 for steering.On the original plastic piecse there is some seperate mounts so instead of using 3x large scale servos you can run a normal size for throttle and brakes so I was going to use a 5995 but with the alloy there is no mounts to do this without drilling holes and mounting the servo with nut and bolts.This would be okay when there is not much in the chassis at the moment but with everything in there it would be a nightmare to try and replace one of these at the track should it go pear shaped.So I will have to order another 5745/5755 for throttle/brake.Will put some pics up tomorrow.
 
#31 ·
Well after going out and watching Duddy race yesterday all I have done is put on all the alloy bits and mounted the two 5745 for steering.On the original plastic piecse there is some seperate mounts so instead of using 3x large scale servos you can run a normal size for throttle and brakes so I was going to use a 5995 but with the alloy there is no mounts to do this without drilling holes and mounting the servo with nut and bolts.This would be okay when there is not much in the chassis at the moment but with everything in there it would be a nightmare to try and replace one of these at the track should it go pear shaped.So I will have to order another 5745/5755 for throttle/brake.Will put some pics up tomorrow.

If you want a couple of holes drilled and taped let me know;)
 
#33 ·
Well I have finally pulled my finger out and its nearly finished bar the shell got all the servos in,motor and pipe.Just a few gripes the bloody radio box is so small tried to be neat about putting all the wires in but in the end basically just stuffed them in with a bit of care.The pipe is the same as Chris's but mine exits on the bottom and sits below the chassis so I think I'll dremel it flush with the chassis.I also wrapped the pipe in exhaust thermo wrap as it runs very close to the shell,tried to get some heat proof tape for the shell also but I only need about 1 metre but the stuff is 60 bucks for a roll of 20 metres.
 
#36 ·
Okay I'll get some tomorrow have finished setting up my new radio DX3s in it took a bit of time to figure it out strange thing is there is no battery port in the new recievers,batt goes into one of the channels so the radio box is full of y leads x3 but its all good.Only things left to do is fuel lines,check all the servo throws,make sure brakes and throttle servo is spot on and then start her up.Finally get the shell painted,might give evilair a crack at it I think a greens tuf theme might be the go.
 
#41 ·
Okay thanks to Franco radio is all sorted and its all finished except for the shell.Have'nt started it yet but its got a 28.5 in it when I wear out all the 2 bolt stuff I have lying around I will be getting a 4 bolt.And now some pics.Enjoy you will notice in one pic the exhaust stinger is sitting below the chassis just have to cut it off.
 

Attachments

#43 ·
I honestley dont know but as you pointed out it will get destroyed so regardless I think mit will have to come off.I was going to get the shell painted buy evilair but with the pipe I think it just sits way to close to the shell and it would melt it so I might have a go with the airbrush I've had sitting around for a while.Does anyone know what psi a airbrush should run at.I would hate to pay to get the shell done and 2 or 3 races later it starts to melt just would'nt be worth it.
 
#44 ·
I honestley dont know but as you pointed out it will get destroyed so regardless I think mit will have to come off.I was going to get the shell painted buy evilair but with the pipe I think it just sits way to close to the shell and it would melt it so I might have a go with the airbrush I've had sitting around for a while.Does anyone know what psi a airbrush should run at.I would hate to pay to get the shell done and 2 or 3 races later it starts to melt just would'nt be worth it.

Around 20 - 40 psi.

Nice job on the car:thumb:
 
#46 ·
Nice work Billybob, i think the exhaust wrap is a good idea too. Personally i think spending a heap of money on a shell that will be used for off-road racing is totally overboard... mine was trashed after only two days at Luddenham.
 
#47 ·
Top work BB, looks the goods. If you want an easy body PM Zoomer for some vinyl masks (eg I did the JD thing, you could think of any number of designs), he is cheap and good quality and all I did was stick on the inside and spray Black over them :D They are still there, when they wear off I will spray white where they used to be. Cost me about $50 all up.
 
#48 ·
Gonna have to cut the pipe mate, should see the pipe i borrowed off THE FROG. Had a big hit on the side that cause my motor to break and the outlet when it lands from the jump, it was nearly flat.

Id rather cut a hole on a new shell than damage the pipe or the motor. Cut out the hole for the pipe before you paint and then just mask the hole so not to overspray the outside.
 
#49 ·
Thanks boys the pipe dose;nt actually touch the shell just sits a tad close for my liking hence the exhaust wrap.I'm going to cut the pipe just a little bit higher in to the side pods dont want it to bottom out and get a pipe full of crud.Does anyone know where I could buy some heatproof tape,looks like aluminium doct tape with a layer of some sort of heat resistent cloth.Tried american autos,supercheap,repco only place that had it was auto barn but $65 bucks a roll and I only need about 1 mt,was thinking maybe exhaust shop?
 
#56 ·
Thanks for the offer Euro I've already got it covered,my boss goes up to bathurst on the Tuesday till friday and hangs out with the team I have to make him these rumballs that are more like rum with a dash of cake mixed in so hes going to take it up and get it done for me.
 
#57 ·
Billy,

Mate your as big a djr fan as me you have to paint 17 on both the greens tuff and tru blu bodies!!

Both your cars are 4x4's and mine are 2wd so we won't ever be in the same race anyway mate.

My car numbers are 17 and 18 in the timing system though, I can't remember what yours are as that's what the system will announce for places and results that's all ....
 
#58 ·
Mate TRU-BLU was the first racecar I ever saw,actually first time I ever went to a race track it was late saturday afternoon practice at oran park it was nearly dark when this great big blue car comes up through the old flip flop it was awesome loved ****y ever since.Was even a member of the fan club when he was racing the sierria.Poor old junior he will always be in the shadow of dad.
 
#62 · (Edited)
Nope they were crap. I used them in the first open heat when the track was dry and I was all over the place. I was battling just to keep it on the track let alone race for positions. Homer drove it early before racing had started so the track was still grippy as it normally is in the morning before the sun and wind dries it out but even then it was a little taily. The pins are too rigid and too spread out for our track even though I bought the soft compound. I took a punt and lost on that one. I think a damp track or grass or topsoil is where they belong. Interestingly though the front felt ok but thats probably because the rear tyres were so loose I felt like I had more steering. I'm sticking to HB khaos for now. Very hard to beat for all-round grip and predictability. I'm hoping GRP make a smaller pin tyre soon cause I really like the rims. They look cool and dont catch the crud like all the other rims out there.
Unfortunately theres only the two type of tread. The other type (which ambro has) says its for blue groove but I don't think they're much good for anything to be honest. Maybe concrete or bitumen on a forty degree day?
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top