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traxxas slash 4x4 interest?

10K views 26 replies 9 participants last post by  WHAMpede 
#1 ·
G'Day all,

I'm kinda interested in the slash 4x4 as a bit of a step up from current hsp which has served its purpose and allowed me to ascertain that I do actually like the hobby and its not a passing phase...

So I'm asking for some advice... there seems to be a few different models and sellers.

I really just want a quality bashing 4x4 but would like to have the status to venture into competitiveness if i choose to.

So would this be a good choice?

Where is best to deal with.... direct to amain hobbies? or is there a good importer.

Any things I should look for or avoid in specific model choice?

Rgds

Ron
 
#2 ·
Im not sure how much the 4x4 differs from the standard 2wd slash, but the 2wd i had was terrible, high centre of gravity, poor steering setup that constantly got rocks stuck in it, planetary diff feels aweful and constantly unloads, and the bumper was always falling off.

If you want durability and good handling, id suggest the Blitz, sure its not 4x4, but i honestly dont think you need it, its going to need a brushless upgrade, but something from hobbyking will be cheap and hugely powerful.
2wd SCT has a better club following than the 4x4 from what i have heard so your chance to race is increased.

Just my opinion Ron.
 
#7 ·
If you wanna race, check what your local club is racing first.

Most only race 2WDs, haven't seen any with full grid of 4WDs yet.

A lot are run as 'spec' class using stock RTR motors &/or 17.5 BLs.
Some require only kit RTR rubber, others are open on tyres.
Other "outlaw SCT" clubs might allow up to 10.5 motors.



Im not sure how much the 4x4 differs from the standard 2wd slash,
umm... the 2 don't even share any common parts? :eek:

but the 2wd i had was terrible, high centre of gravity, poor steering setup that constantly got rocks stuck in it, planetary diff feels aweful and constantly unloads, and the bumper was always falling off.
must've bought it off a little olde lady who trashed it all the way to church
and back every day of the week :rolleyes: if ya got that new... would need to be
serious user neglect to fall apart that bad.

Slash has been built to handle "scale-like" rolypoly in the corners,
they've even spec'd it with progressive springs all corners.
But if you're racing - not hard to setup to handle heaps better.

Steering is pretty darned basic setup... no idea how things get
stuck in it unless you're using reverse too much.


Blitz is not a bad kit... chassis is great but the electronics are woeful.
Has some steering bellcrank issues and some serious diff failures known.
Others are reporting the outdrives wearout real quick too.

It may seem to perform a lot better out of the box... but around a track
with same power etc it doesn't really go much quicker than a tuned Slash.
Slash may look a handful but imho its easier to drive more consistantly.


Slash 4X4 is a totally different beast again.
Puts the power down heaps better so you can use crazy BL motors;
handles ok with some setup work (box stock suited to parking lot tarmac).

A lot more drivetrain complexity with 4WD so it needs more maintenance;
especially bearings and driveshafts are vulnerable to dirt jamming.

Coming with Velineon VXL as std is great... its probably my first RTRs
where i haven't yet ripped out the stock electronics for powerup. :D
 
#4 ·
This is basically the crux of your post:
I really just want a quality bashing 4x4 but would like to have the status to venture into competitiveness if i choose to.
First thing to do is to find so clubs and find what they actually race. You could get 50 recommendations from people here that could all be wrong if it isn't popular where you will be racing.

After you find a club, get the classes and regulations that they have available.
The guys will always be available to give you help, most clubs have their regulars that will be more than happy to help you out.

Then you need to choose from what they have available.

4x4 you will likely see the moster-trucks, buggies and stadium trucks as categories.

Then from their you need to make a choice on your car, but I would be researching clubs first if there is any chance you could be interested in racing.

Good luck Ron
 
#5 ·
the traxxas slash 4x4 is not for bashing

have a watch of these videos

http://www.youtube.com/user/UltimateRCnetwork#p/u/1/I-iTiUBbklk


u need to keep these trucks away from water for sure

and the keep the dirt etc out of the drive line etc, i saw a thread the other day at the traxxas usa forums, a dude just shoved a bit of foam in the hole down the back near the motor and its fixxed the dirt problem
 
#8 ·
-I didnt mention common parts, i said "differ", refering to how bumpers are attached, if the steering can jam as easily, and if it uses planetary diffs instead of spider gears.
-The Slash 2wd is well known for the rear bumper half coming off, it isnt attached on one side, its terribly designed.
-The steering setup allows 8-12mm stones to sit in there, and then when you turn the car, wedge in even further, where i ran the car there was alot of gravel. Was happened every 2-3 minutes of bashing it around, My firestorm and Blitz have had this occur twice in 6months.
-Scale or not, the high COG doesnt do the car any favours, and the stock progressive springs were woeful.

Ive got a blitz that was converted from a firestorm (running the sidewinder 5700 combo), so it has the firstorm diff and spur setup. But the handling is miles ahead, much easier to handle, and design wise its leaps and bounds ahead of the traxxas. And despite having a much lower centre of gravity, it has better ground clearance between the wheels.
 
#9 ·
umm...

100% - Different Parts = Common Parts :) same equation

dunno about your car but mine doesn't hang around long/slow enough for
the rear bumper to be much of a target for impacts ;)

Blitz (and every other SCT afaik other than TRX) don't have progressive springs;
has its pros and cons.

Main pro is its a good indication of how much grip it has in corners and if it looks like
keeling over just gas it and it'll lift the nose up... bit easier to powerslide the tail
coming out of corners, makes the car real wide (if anybody's trying to pass) hehe
 
#10 · (Edited)
I had a look at club but not really that interested in the racing side, so prob concentrate more on just a good tough all round basher, 4x4 is pref not essential.

I looked at the savage flux, and it seems good but way too much bad press around on stripped this n that.

Looking at brushless E revo now. or E maxx, think the E maxx looks like more ground clearance? prob not as good handling?

Any takers for some advice on these two for differences / vices if any?
 
#13 ·
I looked at the savage flux, and it seems good but way too much bad press around on stripped this n that.
Read the dates on what you are reading.
The savage flux now has bulletproof diffs and 2.4g radio.
And like i said in PM, sell the esc and grab something better.
Diffs and ESC are the only/main things that are known trouble spots. The centre transmission slowly wears out, but thats got more to do with how hard you drive it, and how long its been running, and also isnt too expensive to fix.
 
#11 ·
Spot on. Both are great cars. Revo is more of a racing MT and a little different to a traditional MT build. The E-Maxx is a typical MT truck and handling.

The E-Maxx can be tuned, like any car ca, but the Revo handles better out of the box as that is how it was designed.

The Flux is still a good MT, though it has had some problems as you say (all of them have really) but the Flux problems, I beleive, are more to do with users not looking after what they have as well as they could. The Maxx/Revo diffs have a slightly better reputation than the S-Flux ones and that is probably the bit that gets least looked after by your average RC'er.

The pinion/spur and even the drives are relatively easy to get to, but your average driver isn't interested in pulling the guts of the thing apart to see what is really going on in there.

With the Brushless editions of the Maxx/Revo cars the gap is a little more narrow now. Depends if you like the typical MT stance like the Maxx or something more truggy-like in the Revo.


Remember, either way, things will break. Look at places like RPM and FLM who makes excellent third-party hopups with EXCELLENT warranties for the HPI and TRAXXAS cars
 
#12 ·
Flux/Revo/Maxx are a lot heavier designs though.

Slash 4x4 is designed much lighter than those nitro-derived designs.

Bit of a tossup like between a Lotus Elise and a Holden V8... both go as fast,
just different mentalities to achive same result behind each one.
 
#14 ·
Well they are monster trucks and the Slash isn't, so yeah. But if he isn't going to race that obviously opens up his viable selections quite a bit.

Michael, nothing is bulletproof mate. NOTHING.
Reputation is everything and the rep is bad. First impressions last and there will still be people harping on about the diffs for a long time yet. Rightly or wrongly ;)

And like i said in PM, sell the esc and grab something better.
I dont agree with this at all. If you grab a BL, use it. A lot of people use them without a problem. You have to think how many of these things they have sold and no one logs onto forums to compliment a part that is working as intended.

If you are not going to get the BL edition of something, buy the brushed version. You can get the standard E-Revo for less than $600 locally rtr. You would be surprised how much the standard brushed motors wake up when a lipo is plugged into them.
You can always get a brushless system later if you want more. But i wouldn't be selling the ESC, you will be losing money on it.

Diffs and ESC are the only/main things that are known trouble spots. The centre transmission slowly wears out, but thats got more to do with how hard you drive it, and how long its been running, and also isnt too expensive to fix.
I like how you say they are bulletproof and then that they are known problems.

Regardless every car has parts that break. Dont expect not to have stuff broken.
Unless of course you want to go and spend stupid amounts of money on Ulimited Engineering's 8-spider diffs and housing for the E-Maxx but you likely wont have a lot of change from say $500 ;)
 
#15 ·
I was saying that the fluxes are known to eat diffs, with the old standard diffs, which is what was equipped when complaint threads were going around, which is what Ron is reading.
The new ones (atleast US delivered) have the new bulletproof diffs.

HPI label them as bulletproof, i wasnt talking about their quality ;)
They look physically very similar to the Cen diffs which people have been putting in the savage for a long time due to their extreme durability over standard.

And why not swap the ESC out? you could sell it and have change left over after buying a 150a hobbyking, which is very robust and i havent heard of any melting.
I continue to read new threads about MMMs burning up.
 
#16 ·
And why not swap the ESC out? you could sell it and have change left over after buying a 150a hobbyking, which is very robust and i havent heard of any melting.
I continue to read new threads about MMMs burning up.
Well lets go on RCHobbies prices currently:
Brushed $599 - Cheapest EVX2 is $86, Titan 550s about $15 for 2 - effectively $499
Hobbywing ESC/Motor combo - $230
Brushless $1050 - Cheapest MMM $159 and you keep the motor - effectively $890
Hobbywing ESC - $140

You are about $300 in front. Both come with 2.4ghz radios etc.
That's some serious batteries and running gear for $300. Tru-trak RPM rears, RPM arms and FLM diff cups and still change.

And now on Tower's prices
Brushed $570 ($503US inc post and Tower discount) - Cheapest EVX2 is $86, Titan 550s about $15 for 2 - effectively $470
Hobbywing ESC/Motor combo - $230
Brushless $818 ($722US inc post and Tower discount) - Cheapest MMM $159 and you keep the motor - effectively $660
Hobbywing ESC - $140

From the states you are about $100 better off.

It's simple maths.
Best option is RCHobbies for the Brushed and gear it up. Hell the price they are selling it for you dont need to sell the EVX2 and motors and you can have them as spare, or bash until your BL kit arrives.


If you get the BL edition, get it and run it, dont stuff around. Selling it, worrying about it selling and getting new stuff in is a waste.
Get the brushed, save cash, bash it until your kit arrives then swap it out.

No down time, cheaper, better.
 
#17 ·
I was refering to the savage flux, of which there is no brushed version (esav is totally different).
But if he wants revo then yeah your idea works really well!

But if he get a flux, i wouldnt bother with the MMM, personally i bought someones half finished project roller and then grabbed the 2200kv stock motor from ozrc and the hobbyking esc.
Currently running 10,000mah 4s and it easily standing backflips!
 
#18 ·
Yeah it did make the std E-Revo from RCH look very tempting
 
#19 ·
regular maintanence

mate i have had my slash 4x4 for around 2weeks and i have loved every minute, the only mods i have made are to fibreglass the inside of the lid (spoke to lhs and he cringed when i said i glassed the lid) and seriously have maintained the bearings and shafts after each sand use. I live at the beach and have put around 5packs through on the sand, it is a bit dissapointing when you spend 30mins on each driveshaft/bearings cleaning and oiling and within 1min of driving it is covered again. I don't have an air compressor at home but do at work and i definately recommend buying a small cmpressor to clean bearings etc after each use. ps the user manual says to hose down with low pressure and lube with wd-40. I have timed myself (using air compressor and cleaning with kerosene) and i can clean all bearings and driveshafts in around 4.5hrs, which i plan to do once a week
 
#20 ·
dun be blowing the dirt INTO the bearings now, will ya... :)

the only use of compressor for bearings is when you've removed the seals
and flushed all the grease out, then a puff of air to blow rest of grit out is good

if you're just dusting off the whole car, everytime you blow on bearings it'll push dirt IN
 
#21 ·
I don't run my 4wd slash on the beach, but I do regularly run my 2wd slash on the beach. I never touch my bearings. I take the truck home, hose the crap out of it and blow it off with the compressor. All I do then is spray the exposed steel bits with wd40 and leave it. Of all the runs on the beach, I've only replaced 2 bearings. I personally reckon that the best thing you can do for your bearings is run the car on the road the day after you run the truck through whatever harsh environment you've put it through. I've had bearings that are quite gritty and take the truck out and run it up and down the road at full speed for about 10 minutes and they're all freed up. Of course, do this only with your basher, not your racer!

After much beach running, I'm of the belief that the sealed traxxas bearings are sealed well enough for sand not to get in. Being a larger grain, sand doesn't make it in. Mud and dirt is going to ruin sealed bearings much faster than sand.

As I said, since running on the beach, I've only replaced 2 bearings in total and I can't even put that down to the sand. I also run the truck everywhere and anywhere else so no doubt those 2 bearings were just due to normal wear and tear.
 
#24 ·
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