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Great advice if you race IC Off Road

11K views 22 replies 11 participants last post by  SandX 
#1 ·
I found this great artical and thought I'd share it with you.

A good preparation will not make you faster and will not give you a free ticket for the podium but it will make you smarter than others racers and will dramatically increase your chances of finishing the race. If you can’t finish the race, you can’t win!
What is a good preparation before a race? No matter what is your level of racing or if you are experimented or not, there are many things you should consider before racing.


  1. Preparation begins before the race day. The day before a race, clean and inspect your vehicle. Make sure all screws are tight. If you have a doubt concerning a part, replace or fix it. A “road test” is also a good idea just to make sure everything is Okay. This is definitively not the time to beat your vehicle, just run it.
  2. When you arrive to the track, take few minutes to walk the track. Take the time to inspect every corner and jump. Identify your best line of racing. Also pay close attention to the track surface.
  3. During the practice, watch the fast guys. Watch their racing line and how they approach jumps and corners. Watch how they accelerate and brake around the track. Try to identify who is driving what. This may be very useful later on your race day.
  4. I’ll repeat it again; tires are the most important part of a race setup. So, have a look to what tires the fastest guys are using. If you have the same tires somewhere in your boxes, install them. Don’t try to be innovative with “weirdos” tires telling everyone they are your secret weapon.
  5. If you need a pitman and you don’t have one, it is time to find someone who will like to pit you. It is good to find a pitman early in the day. Find someone who will not race in the same class as you. This will eliminate the chance that you and your pitman will race in the same qualify or main. Remember, if someone helps you out, you will have to help your pitman when he will be racing.
  6. Before a practice, qualify or a main, take the time to inspect your entire vehicle for loose screws or wheel nuts. Make sure everything is clean and spins freely. Clean your air filter and charge your receiver pack. This is important.
  7. Get familiar with the track. This is exactly why they are practices before the qualifies. I normally do few laps at low or medium speed just to get familiar with the corners and jumps. Remember what you noticed when you walked the track. During those slow laps, let others racers pass you. Remember, you are not racing, you are practicing! Once you are Okay with the track, you can go at full speed if you want.
  8. Estimate your runtime. This is something I never read anywhere before but I normally find a way to estimate my runtime with a full tank during the practices. Once I’m familiar with the track, I fill up my vehicle and start my chronometer. I run my vehicle like if I was racing until I run out of fuel and then stop my chronometer. If my runtime is 9m45s. I then estimate my pit stops at 9 minutes. For some, this is not a good idea to tell everyone what is your runtime. In a 30 or 45 minutes races, runtime is part of your race strategy. This is not really lying, this is racing
  9. After your practice session, inspect once again your entire vehicle. Check for leaking fuel tubes, loose screws, worn turnbuckle ends, clutch bearings, bent or loose components. Check everything. You will have to inspect your vehicle after every practice, qualify or race. This is the good time to fully charge your receiver, transmitter and glow starter packs. Don’t forget to marshal!
  10. Before the first qualify, show to your pitman how to fuel and start your vehicle. If you use a starter box, show him how to align correctly your vehicle on the starter box. Along with your glow starter and your starter box, give to your pitman an extra glow plug, a glow plug wrench, an extra wheel nut, a wheel wrench and few body clips. Just in case…
  11. It is now time to talk qualifying strategy with your pitman. With his help, identify when he will fill up your vehicle before the start of the qualifying and how he should hold your vehicle. Yes, some vehicles tend to lean out when you hold them by the wing. Keep it flat to avoid engine stalling problems.
  12. After every qualifying, check how much fuel is left in the tank. This will confirm your runtime estimated previously. Don’t forget to marshal!
  13. Before the main race, have all your receiver packs fully charged. This is important to have more than one receiver pack. If you bump up, you’ll need extra power for the next race. And the time between each race is relatively too short to charge your receiver pack. Check if your transmitter batteries are OK. Once again, make sure your pitman brings extra glow plug, wheel nuts and wrenches. Fill your vehicle and your fuel bottle. You need enough fuel for the entire race.
  14. Talk strategy before the main race. Like for the qualifying, explain to your pitman what he should do before the start of the race. Tell him when he should call you for a pit stop. Don’t forget to give him your chronometer! Having a good communication between you and your pitman is very important. Make sure your pitman is directly in front of you in the pit lane. It is a good idea to have your pitman calling you one lap before your pit stop. When your pitman calls you, just make a sign with your head or tell him that you have understood his call. Mains are at least 15 minutes or more. There are a lot of things that can happen in a race. Don’t push too hard on the first laps, stay in the race pace and let others commit mistakes.
  15. During the race, remember that slow is fast. You’ll lose more time if you crash than if you go a little slower. If you don’t control your vehicle before a jump, you better role the jump. If you stall or crash in the middle of the track, tell others racers on the drivers stand to pay attention to where your vehicle is to prevent an accident or another crash.
I hope those steps will make you a better racer and will increase your chances of winning a race. A good preparation is definitively the key for better race results. You may not finish first but you’ll put all the chances on your side. You better finish last than not finish at all. Have fun and keep on racing!
 
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#2 ·
Your First Time

You have been watching others guys at the race track for long a time now; you decided to hit the track for the first time. To make your first race experience a success, there are several things you should know before you go racing. Chances you will win are low but the chances that you’ll have fun are high and this is exactly what you should be looking for. You don’t need a 2000$ vehicle to have fun and success, follow those steps and have fun!

What class is for you?
Depending on where you are from, different classes are more popular than others. The 1/8 buggy and truggy classes are extremely popular since few years. Almost all race clubs offer the possibility to race those classes and depending on the number of entries, different levels of racing are offered. It goes from the beginner to expert. However, gas stadium trucks, short course trucks and monster trucks are also popular at few race tracks. Don’t overlook the stadium gas trucks class. It is one of the toughest and exciting class to race. Make sure to verify with your race club what rules apply to the class you want to race. In general, in the beginner class, there is no specific rule concerning engine size so any ready-to-run are accepted, great for beginners.
Pick the right car!
Now you must pick the right vehicle. The best way is to go with the most popular class. As mentioned earlier, buggy and truggy are popular, there are a lot of chances you’ll go in one of those classes. Today’s RTRs are well equipped and most of them are ready to race. Another trick is to pick a vehicle that you can have parts easily. Have a look to which brands the local hobby shop carry and to which brands others racers drive. There is nothing more frustrating to wait two weeks for a 2$ parts because no one in your area have it in stock or in their spare parts bind. Also, if you choose a popular vehicle at your race track, it will be easier to share setups or tricks with others racers. Companies like Losi, Team Associated and Jammin’ offer high quality RTR buggies and truggies. I always suggest to newcomers to buy their first vehicle new and at their local hobby shop. Why? Simply because a new vehicle is problem free and has never been abused or crashed heavily. And why buy it your the local hobby shop? The guys at the LHS are the best guys to give you support for breaking in the engine, to explain you how it works or give you help to repair your vehicle. You may find better prices on the internet but all those internet stores will not be able to help you as much as a hobby shop can. I suggest you to read this article I wrote to help you to choose the right vehicle (First time buying guide)
Which extra equipments you should buy?
Even if you have decided to buy a RTR vehicle, you’ll need to buy extra equipments to run your vehicle. Here is a list of the extra items you may need to buy.
  • Receiver hump pack, at least 1200 NiMh.
  • 8 AAs rechargeable batteries for the transmitter. A C or D cell for your glow starter if not rechargeable.
  • If your vehicle is equipped with an electric handed starting system. You may need a 7.2v battery pack. A cheap 3000 NiMh pack will do the job just fine.
  • Battery charger, you don’t need an expensive or high-end charger. Buy an AC/DC charger that can charge NiMh at different charge rates. Example: 1A for hump pack, glow starter (if rechargeable) and transmitter’s batteries and 3A for the 7.2v pack.
  • Good quality fuel and extra glow plugs.
  • Ask to others racers which part are the most prone to break and buy few extra parts.
  • Buy good tools. L shaped hex’s included are “cheesy” and will make you swear when you’ll work on your vehicle.
  • A toolbox to store your tools and parts.
  • Air filter oil.
  • Resist to the temptation to buy “bling bling” parts or any upgrade parts that are not necessary at this moment.
  • At this stage, your best upgrade still practice, practice and practice. Remember, slow is fast.
What you should bring to the track:
If you go at the track for a practice or just for few laps, you don’t need to carry extra items others that your R/C stuff. But, if you go for a full day of racing, you need more than just your R/C stuff. Here are few things that you should bring with you…
  • A folding chair.
  • A folding table if necessary.
  • Sun cream.
  • Hat or a cap.
  • Insect repellent.
  • Water.
  • Money, just in case you need to buy parts from the hobby shop or from another racer.
Hope you liked this article and hope it has made your first race experience a success. Racing can be really exciting; it depends on how well you are prepared.
 
#4 ·
Thanks Blackie.

As you can tell I didn't write the articals so I hope the site I got them from don't mind me using them, I just felt there was some great things in there for veterans and newbies, and wanted to share here as not every body surfs all the various rc sites out there and wouldn't get to see it otherwise.

I have more idea's of things to add soon.
 
#5 ·
Alloy Clutch help. 1

You grab a handful of throttle and the ponies erupt from your engine just as the power tears your sticky tires from the racing surface. All of this happens in an instant because your clutch, without hesitation, did exactly what you told it to. The smooth, consistent and precise transfer of power is exactly what your clutch should always do, but if it isn't maintained properly—especially when you run an aluminum clutch—you'll be haunted by slippage, overheating, lagging release and even complete failure. It only takes a few short minutes to be sure your connection from engine to wheels is in top performing order, so get off your lazy butt and have a make-out session with one of the most valuable components in your nitro vehicle.

CLUTCH BASICS
To put it simply, your clutch is responsible for connecting and disconnecting your nitro mill to and from your transmission and therefore indirectly to your wheels. It maximizes the transfer of engine power to the ground while still allowing your car to slow down or even come to a complete stop without stalling. The perfect clutch will both engage and disengage at just the right time to allow for responsive power transfer, ease of driving, minimal slippage and quick disengagement.


The actual mechanical workings of a standard clutch are fairly basic. Clutch springs hold the clutch shoes away from the clutch bell. Once the engine spools to a given RPM, the centrifugal force overcomes the rate of your clutch springs force and allows the shoes to pivot outwards against the clutch bell. The friction between the clutch shoes and clutch bell causes the bell to rotate at the same RPM as your engine to give you a fully engaged clutch. The opposite happens once the engine RPM drops below a certain point; the clutch springs force overcomes the centrifugal force and pulls the shoes back away from the clutch bell to disengage the clutch. This is how a properly working clutch functions. But there are many potential failures that can occur if maintenance isn't a frequent part of your wrenching regimen. Here are the steps and things to look for when polishing your clutch back into race ready order.

TAKE IT APART
Your first task is to remove your engine from your car and disassemble the clutch unit. When it comes to general clutch maintenance you only need to address a few areas so simply remove your clutch bell, shims, bearings, springs and shoes. You can leave your flywheel and clutch nut installed on your engine but clean it up with denatured alcohol or motor spray to remove any clutch dust or debris. Now is also a good time to examine the pins on your flywheel for excessive wear and replace when necessary. Lay all other clutch components onto a clean rag and get ready to begin the dirty work.


BASIC CLUTCH TUNING
Your clutch is a smart system that doesn't need to think to follow the laws of physics. A few quick changes to the parts can drastically alter the performance characteristics. You can easily change the engagement point of your clutch by making alterations to your clutch shoes and/or springs. Here are the basic rules: You can either remove mass from your clutch shoes or install stiffer clutch springs to make your clutch engage later. A later engaging clutch will hookup further into the power band of your engine, which will offer a snappy feel to the bottom end but will be more difficult to drive on low traction surfaces. Heavier clutch shoes or softer clutch springs will make your clutch engage earlier. This will make your car feel a little sluggish at the bottom end but will make the car easier to drive when traction is low. There are also a number of clutches available with new design features that allow quick and easy engagement adjustments so you don't have to actually alter shoe mass or change springs but if you're running a conventional clutch you may want to do a little experimenting to see what works best for you.
 
#6 ·
2

SHOE MAINTENANCE
I'm not going to say that clutch shoes are the most important part of your clutch because EVERY part of your clutch is the most important and all components have to be working properly for strong performance. With that being said, your clutch shoes are one of the most important parts of your clutch! We are going to concentrate on aluminum shoes since they require the most attention, but if you're running carbon shoes, simply replace them when they wear out since carbon shoe maintenance isn't usually necessary, more than a quick buff with some fine sandpaper.

Examine your aluminum clutch shoes and if they are excessively worn, replace them. Most aluminum shoes are still more than usable, simply needing some TLC to get them back into working order. Burrs are the enemy of the clutch and that is usually what you'll see when you look closely at your aluminum shoes: Rolled-up bits of worn aluminum overhang the top, bottom and tip of each clutch shoe and can cause your shoes to hang up on the flywheel or seize up altogether. These burrs must be removed on a regular basis, as this is one of the main causes of aluminum clutch failure. Use a small file or a Dremel tool to carefully remove them. It is a wise idea to file in a small bevel on the three shoe edges as well to help delay the development of the next batch of burrs. Use fine sandpaper to gently resurface the face of each shoe where it makes contact with your clutch bell. Finally clean the shoes with motor spray and set them aside for reinstallation later.




CLUTCH SPRINGS
There isn't a lot you can do when it comes to maintaining clutch springs, so once they are removed just clean and examine them for damage. If they are bent, gouged out, discolored or worn from contact with your clutch bell then simply replace them with a fresh set. Clutch springs are relatively inexpensive so a new set never hurts. Always keep in mind that there are different rates of clutch springs so when replacing or reinstalling keep track of the rates. Some clutches use different rates of springs within the same clutch so this is especially important for those guys. Most clutch springs are either color coded or the use of a digital caliper will quickly tell you the diameter so you can match equal springs together.



CLUTCH BELL
Your clutch bell usually only needs a good cleaning to remove carbon and clutch dust. Motor spray or denatured alcohol will usually do the trick but I also like to wet a rag with motor spray and run it firmly along the inner surface of the bell where the shoes make contact. After you've cleaned the bell, a thorough examination is needed. Check for tooth wear but also check the inside for excessive roughness. If the contact area for the shoes is rough and grooved, it's time for a replacement.
 
#7 ·
3



CLUTCH BEARINGS
Your clutch bearings are known as the hardest-working bearings in your vehicle since they are subjected to the highest RPMs and the most heat, meaning they get the crap kicked out of them all day long! The worst part is that when they fail your race is over. So if in doubt, slap some new bearings in. You can maintain clutch bearings but only if they are in pristine condition and only need a slight cleaning and a light drop of oil. If there is any grittiness, resistance or discoloration in your clutch bearings, they need to be replaced with fresh ones.

If you are going to maintain your existing bearings by cleaning and re-oiling them, be very careful when applying the oil. Only a small drop or two is needed to keep them lubed. Always wipe away any excess oil from the outside of the bearing. Too much oil and you risk it leaking onto your clutch shoes or bell, causing slippage and excessive heat. If you do manage to get some oil in your clutch, your best bet is to disassemble it and clean it out manually. But there is a quick fix that may solve your oil problem: With your engine installed and revving, hold your car off of the ground and repeatedly jam the wheels into the ground while throttle is still applied. This repeated slipping will create heat in the clutch and should help to burn off and remove any excess oil in your clutch. If this trick doesn't work you'll have to yank your engine out and clean the clutch by hand.




BROKEN CLUTCH
There are some simple signs to a damaged clutch. If your car runs on into a corner (you lift off of the throttle but your vehicle still powers forward for a moment), or your wheels rotate when your engine is idling, then you'll need to open your clutch assembly and apply some elbow grease. Common clutch problems for these scenarios are damaged or broken clutch springs, melted clutch shoes, or even broken clutch bearings. Any one of these problems can cause your clutch to engage at an excessively low RPM or even melt itself together, becoming permanently engaged. If this is the case you'll have to take your clutch apart and replace components as necessary.




SLAP IT BACK TOGETHER
Now it's time to put your clutch back together in the same order you took it apart. I won't go into specifics here since each clutch design is a little different but consult your instruction manual to make sure you put all the parts back as they should be. Your clutch bell shimming is vital and should already be set since you were only doing maintenance, but always double check the end-play just to be sure. About 0.5 mm is usually a good amount of clutch bell slop and will allow for any expansion from heat. Once you are happy with the shimming apply a little bit of blue thread-lock onto the screw and tighten that sucker down, holding the flywheel gently with pliers so you can tighten the screw with some authority. Be careful not to get any thread-lock in the front bearing of your clutch.


CLOSING
Your biggest worries when it comes to aluminum clutch failure are with the shoes burring up and bearing failure, so check these areas often. How often? Anywhere from five to 20 tanks is a broad but reasonable range to check your clutch, but you'll have to figure out a maintenance schedule for your specific clutch, engine and driving style. Once you learn the intricacies of your specific setup then take notes on use so you know when it's time to rebuild.
 
#8 ·
Your first time 1

Its an old artical, and referes to USA governing bodies, but most points still relevant for us here.


It's always a blast to build your own jumps, bash around your backyard or in a vacant parking lot and just have fun racing with a friend or two. But maybe now it's time for you to take it to the next level. If you've ever thought about getting into RC racing, it may have had you shaking at the knees wondering what to do to even get started. We will outline much of what you need to know about the world of RC racing, and by the end you'll be well on your way to a track near you!
Step 1: Your Friendly Neighborhood Track?

Whether you are into off-road or on-road, you need to find out if there’s a place to race nearby. Check with any local hobby shops for information on area tracks. Many shops will hold regularly scheduled races in their parking lots. Another way to locate race venues is to go online. RC Universe has a great track locating search program. You can search for on-road or off-road racing, by state or country. Follow this link to start your search:

Step 2 – Rules & Regs

For most race venues you can’t just bring any ole vehicle to the racetrack and expect to be able to race it. There are standards that you’re vehicle must meet. For instrance you can't have a crazy huge engine that might blow a hole through a track wall or any modifications that give you an unfair competitive advantage. But that doesn’t mean you have to leve your vehicle box stock. You’ll most likely want to do some upgrading and tuning to your vehicle before going to race as long as they meet regulation standards. To find out rules, vehicle regulations and information about racing, visit these websites: ( the following information is quoted directly form thier respective websites)
  • www.roarracing.com. ROAR (Remotely Operated Auto Racers) is the governing body for RC racing in the U.S/Canada. ROAR rules have been the guidelines for R/C car racing for over 39 years. They are designed to promote fair competition, safety, and define what equipment can be used in ROAR competition. ROAR does not run races below the National level, but it does sanction races from the club level to Multi-Regional Championships.
  • www.ifmar.org. IFMAR (International Federation of Model Auto Racing) is the world governing body of RC racing.
There are also other RC racing bodies besides these two, but they’re the ones you’ll mainly be concerned with for your first time racing.
Step 3 – Prepare Yourself

Once you have located a track you may want to call or stop by during a race and ask some preliminary questions such as:
  • How much does it cost to race at your facility?
  • Do you have a printed list of rules and guidelines for racing and vehicle setup?
  • What is your racing schedule?
  • What are the best times to come and race for a novice?
  • Do you have any advice for a newcomer?
After reading this article, you may have more questions you’ll want to ask them. You’ll find that everyone is willing to help, so don’t be shy! Ask questions, because it’s ‘more the merrier’ when it comes to racing.
I recommend before going to the track that you spend a few days practicing with your RC vehicle. It honestly doesn’t matter if you do win or not your first time out, it’s just to build your confidence and gain experience with your vehicle. I don’t recommend trying to go race if you’ve never spent any ‘quality time’ with your RC.
Step 4 – Now It’s Time To Race!

So you’ve just arrived at the track, now what? There are vehicles already ripping around the track, people are chatting, others are tuning! Don’t be intimidated. It's better to be known as the "new guy who doesn’t know very much, but is willing to learn" than the ‘"new guy who thinks he knows a lot, but really doesn’t know anything." Modesty will work in your favor at the track.
Preparation is Key!

The whole process of preparing to spend an entire day at the track can be very time-consuming. You need to make sure you bring extra fuel, batteries, proper tools, battery chargers, spare parts if possible. Make a list based on what otheres have recommended while you were observing races during previous track visits. Basically you need a portable pit stop to handle any issues that could arise throughout the day. It's been my experience, however that if you need something you did not bring there is a good chance someone will have it and is willing to give it to you or lend it to you for the day.
 
#9 ·
your first time 2

Registration

You will have to get yourself registered when you arrive. The registration area is usually pretty obvious. Make sure you bring identification and some money to cover the entry fee. You’ll most likely need to give info such as:
  • Your name
  • Your transmitter frequency (channel)
  • Class (based on the vehicle style you will be racing)
After you’ve signed up, you will find an available space in which to set up your pit space. The track is usually open for practice while registration is still taking place. Make sure know the scheduled pratice times. Before heading out to the track with your car take a walk through the pits and speak with other racers. Let them know it's your first race and you may be surprised at how helpful most are willing to be. I can’t stress this enough. Honestly, everyone has been a first timer when they were starting out racing so they are generally more than happy to offer advice.
Frequencies & Crystals

Being new to the whole RC racing scene you may not be familiar with how transmitter frequencies are handled. If you purchased a RTR (ready to run) vehicle the hand-held radio transmitter comes with a pre-set frequency (also referred to as channel). The frequency is the radio signal that communicates with your vehicle's receiver, allowing the car to repond to your input. Whe you are bashing by yourself this is a non issue, but once there are a lot of racers in the same area, there is a good chance of overlapping frequencies. If two vehicles are using the same channel then neither will operete correctly. One of the ways in which tracks will maintain control of frequencies is a frequency clip board. On this board is a clip labeled for each individual frequency, usually like a clothes pin. When a driver is going to take the stand to race or practice he takes the clip labeled with his transmitter's channel and attaches it to the antenna of the transmitter. If you want to drive your car but the clip for your frequency is not on the board then you cannot turn on your transmitter. When you do have the clip it is important that you return it to the board immediately after running a tank of fuel or a battery pack. Do not try to keep this clip for any extended period or while you do any work on your car in the pits. Make sure it is available for others. Most racers who are still running either 27 or 75 mHz will carry back up frequencies. These are usually referred to as ‘crystals’ – the actual ‘chip’ that you switch in and out of your hand held transmitter, as well as the one in your vehicle's receiver.
Other radio options are available that make it less of an issue when dealing with frequencies. Synthesized radios and modules will let you set any your system to any available channel. And of course there is the 2.4gHz spectrum line of radios now available from several of the major radio manufacturers. These will cost a little more but if you get serious about racing I am sure you will want to have either of these options.
Inspections

If the track where you will be racing follows ROAR rules, chances are they’re going to inspect your vehicle to make sure the playing field is level for everyone. So, they’ll check things such as your tires, vehicle weight and height, engine modifications and other modifications you may have made. Most stock RC vehicles can be raced as they come out of the box but eventually you’ll want to get tuned-up to be more competitve. Just a little reminder, though.... learn to drive well before worrying about upgrading your vehicle.
Categories, Mains & Qualifiers

Race day will consist of practice, qualifiers (two or more short races) and Mains (these determine final winners). To determine the skill levels of all drivers, and in which Main they will race, everyone runs in a minumum of two qualifying races. (Some tracks may run three or more qualifiers). Qualifiers are generally much shorter than the Mains. The results will help to place drivers in races against other drivers of similar skill level tomake the competition as fair as possible. Each track may have their own way of organizing the race categories, such as beginner, novice or expert. They may have categories that split racers up by age, such as a “junior” category.
The Mains are longer races. The number of racers determines how many Mains will be run. The A-Main is for the drivers with the best overall times. Subsequent Mains i.e. B, C D , are organized best to worst, with the B-Main including those that didn't quite make it to the A and D includint those that are just happy to still be up and running.
Marshalling

One thing you may not be aware of is the process of ‘marshalling.’ Basically, when you race your vehicle flips over, runs off the track or gets taken out by an accidental hit from another car. The people from the race prior to yours are required to marshal for your race and you will marshall the race immediately after yours. A marshall is responsible for getting vehicles back in play after any sort of mishap that may take them out.
As a marshall you aren’t allowed to repair or attempt to fix any vehicle that is being marshalled. You are to set it off the track so that the drivers pit person can grab it and attemp to get it working again. The same applies to you and your vehicle when you’re racing.
RC racing’s future depends greatly on those currently participating and new drivers working to get started. Keep it fun. Teach what you can, learn what you can..pass it on.
In Conclusion...

Now that you are armed with the info you need I suggest compiling a list of questions you may have and give a quick call to your local race track. Just remember to speak up, put yourself out there and be courteous to your fellow racer. After a few times out, you’re guaranteed to have had a blast. Be prepared to make some new friends in the process. RC racing’s future depends greatly on those currently participating and new drivers working to get started. Keep it fun. Teach what you can, learn what you can..pass it on. Happy racing!
 
#10 ·
Jumping

Learning to fly – How to jump like a pro
Jumping is one of the most spectacular aspects of off-road RC racing. There is nothing more spectacular than a 1/8 truggy flying 20 feet. Seeing another 1/8 truggy flying the same distance with the throttle nailed with tires like pizza cutters and landing on the top is also spectacular but this is not the best approach to lower your lap time.
Jumping is not just throwing your vehicle as fast and as far or high you can. There are essential things you must consider to improve your jumping skills.
The approach:
The approach is the most important part of a successful jump. If you can’t control your vehicle before it hits the jump, chances are your vehicle will take off in a randomize direction and will land (read crash) somewhere it should not. It is very important to control your vehicle to reach the required speed and traction before you hit the jump. You must have sufficient speed to clear the jump. If you can’t clear it, you better roll the jump. You’ll lose precious time if you crash. This rule applies to single and double jump. In the case of larger jumps like triple jumps, the approach is a little different. If you can’t clear a triple jump, you must imagine the triple jump like two different jumps. Depending of the amount of speed you can reach, you can imagine a triple as a single-double or as a double-single jump. However, to clear the last part of the triple jump, your landing from the first part of the triple should be perfect so you can get enough speed to clear the last section.
Keep in mind that 2wd vehicles are more subject to traction break than any others vehicles. Those vehicles are really sensitive to throttle inputs.

In the air:
Once your vehicle has taken off, put the throttle to the neutral position. Basically your vehicle should jump level. If your vehicle’s nose goes down, a little blip on the throttle will correct the situation. At the opposite, if your vehicle’s front end goes up, a slightly hit on the break will bring your vehicle level. The amount of throttle or break inputs required depends of the vehicle you drive. In fact, it depends of the total of the rotational masses (the tires) influenced by the brake and throttle. It means that a 4wd monster truck with huge tires will be more sensitive to throttle and brake inputs in the air than a 2wd 1/10th scale buggy. Because the monster truck is 4wd and has heavy tires, each time you hit the brake or the throttle it stops or spins the tires, representing a 4-5 lbs of rotating mass. Adjust your vehicle so it will be parallel with the landing zone.


The landing:
How your vehicle will land is also important because it determines how you’ll accelerate right after the jump. The best is when your vehicle lands parallel to the landing zone. In this situation, you can get back on the throttle sooner. Overjumping is not the best avenue because when your vehicle is in the air, you can’t accelerate. In fact, you’re losing speed.


Conclusion:
With those few tips and with a little practice, you’ll improve your jumping skills. If you have trouble to evaluate jumps, simply have a look to the fastest guys at your race. Pay close attention to their approach and how they jump the biggest jumps. If it works for them, it will work for you.
 
#11 ·
reply

FLANNO well done buddy this is one of the best reads i have ever had on the rc race game, every one racing or planning on racing should read this thread, better yet it should be made a sticky bold post in every race section of every forum on the planet to help people understand the race game as so many people miss the little things that help you reach a podium.

Even clubs should be putting this info together in a print version to hand out to every member of there club to undrstand that racing is not just turn up race go home like most think....

Thanks for the great read, nothing i didnt know myself but still a perfect thread for others at most of the clubs i have raced at in victoria & south australia
 
#15 ·
FLANNO well done buddy this is one of the best reads i have ever had on the rc race game, every one racing or planning on racing should read this thread, better yet it should be made a sticky bold post in every race section of every forum on the planet to help people understand the race game as so many people miss the little things that help you reach a podium.

Even clubs should be putting this info together in a print version to hand out to every member of there club to undrstand that racing is not just turn up race go home like most think....

Thanks for the great read, nothing i didnt know myself but still a perfect thread for others at most of the clubs i have raced at in victoria & south australia
Thanks for the useful info Flanno. Good read specially for people thats just starting out on the sport.
Great write up Flanno:thumb:

Would be good as a sticky, it answers and addresses a lot of questions

There ya go guys !

Thanks Mods :thumb:
 
#12 ·
Thanks Savage.

Yes, there are a lot of guys out there that would know most the things mentioned in the thread.

Unfortunatelly tho, even some seasoned racers seem to miss some things accasionally, like the marshalling things etc, "like DON"T try to fix a problem car, you are there to marshal, Its up to the drivers pit to fix problems".......etc etc.

Atleast those like yourself may have a read and think to yourself, oh yeh thats rite, I done that or should do that etc.

We are always getting new racers at LRRCC and some are on this forum So I'm trying to put together a thread that covers most questions asked and also cover some problems I'v seen arrise for newbs at their first few meetings.
 
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#17 ·
I wish I could have had something like this to read when I was starting out, top job flanno!! I may be forced to poach some or all of this for the LCRCMCC website if its cool with you Flanno?
 
#19 ·
I wish I could have had something like this to read when I was starting out, top job flanno!! I may be forced to poach some or all of this for the LCRCMCC website if its cool with you Flanno?

By all means Zero, help yourself !

I agree 5Tom partially / mostly, everybody is different, but I use what tires work at each track as the starting point and go from there, not all the faster guys use the same combinations etc as you said, we all drive and want different handling characteristics, but its usually a good starting point.
It doesn't hurt to ask as many guys as you can, and you start to get an idea who drives like you etc etc.

Except now, I run AKA ;) and tread is determined on the track conditions, compound is determined by temperatures or length of race. :cool:
 
#18 · (Edited)
I’ll repeat it again; tires are the most important part of a race setup. So, have a look to what tires the fastest guys are using. If you have the same tires somewhere in your boxes, install them. Don’t try to be innovative with “weirdos” tires telling everyone they are your secret weapon.
Very well written up, however I gotta comment with this particular point. Everyone has their own driving style and preferences on how they like to car to handle. Tyres being the most important part of the car determines how much grip your gonna get on the surface (obviously).

In my racing experience with 1/5th scale, the only way your going to win a race is by knowing exactly how your car performs under stock conditions, then experimenting with different setups based on how comfortable you feel with the cars handling.

Using someone elses setup will probably cause you some grief because the winning setup on the winning car will not always work or handle identically for another driver.

Some drivers love a balenced feel, some prefer oversteer, some prefer understeer, some love a low enganging clutch, other prefer a snappy one. These factors are all related to tyre choice and grip performance (aswell as suspension) but you need to experiment on what works for you and not for someone else.
 
#22 ·
Thanks mate for all the information
It was great to know what to take to the track and how to jump especially starting out new with all of this.
Thanks Altus :thumb:
 
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