: NR2 / Micro Heli’s chat.



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Oblivion
07-12-2006, 11:55 AM
first i should point out i am definately not an experienced pilot and i have barely learnt how to hover this heli.


i am barely starting to fly the standard box patternbut i have had various ppl ask me about it and so i thought i'd post what i have learnt so far incase it may help others get airborne quicker, easierand with less breakages.


If anyone else has experience in the NRii heli, please add your thoughts, i also have a lot to learn.


I would also recomend you read huskys flying guide for extra info.


Venom Night Ranger II heli tips:


You get different sticker patterns to make your rotors look fancy. DONT us them! they unbalance your rotor which, without sticker is already balanced.

<LI>keep the tail tight on the tail boom, butonly pinch up the boom/chassis mount. in a stack it can get knocked out of alignment instead of being broken.
<LI>you can wrap your tail boom neatly with regular sticky tape to add extra strength, or to repair it if it has a small split .
<LI>make sure the tail rotor is straight, and not leaning to one side.
<LI>rotate the rotors so they are out the sides of the chopper. the rotation holder/rotor mountcan now pivot forward/back.. pick the heli up by the rotation holder/rotor mount so it can naturally hang and swing forward/backward and slide the battery pack/cradle forward or backward until the tail boom is level. A balanced heli is easier to fly and hover.
<LI>main rotors pinched up so they are not loose, but should not be stiff to move either. lightly pinched with a little resistance when moving them by hand seems to work best.
<LI>remove main rotors + flybar paddles, + flybar weights. measure flybar length on either side of the rotor head to make sure its even then tighten @ rotor head so it cannot move. fit flybar paddles + flybar weights at even distance from the ends and lightly pinch up. without main rotors, move it like a see-saw and make sure its fairly well balanced.. once balanced refit main rotors. The flybar weights should be tightened up, and the flybar paddles should be snug up against the weights. Having the paddles pinched lightly allows them to get knocked out of align in a stack instead of snapping the flybar off.
<LI>reverse the flybar paddle screws so the nut is ontop. out the box, the excess thread scratches up your main blades in a crash and reverseing the screw so it comes up from underneath prevents this occuring.
<LI>always make sure the flybars are sitting level with each other. look from the side, and make sure they DONT have one sit higher or lower than the other or your heli will be seriously unbalanced.
<LI>make sure the landingskid is correctly fitted and that one side isnt loose. if the landing skid is longer on one side it will make the heli try tip that way when you take off.. level landing skids make taking off much easier.
<LI>remove the screws that hold the main rotors on, and fit a nut/bolt with the nut being ontop and screwhead underneath.
<LI>


paint the tips of the flybar paddles, use a different bright colour on each paddle. when the heli is powered up and the blades are spinning at eye level you can see if one paddles colour is spinning higher than the other colour. Both colours should take the same track as they spin through the air. Adjust as needed.</LI>


training gear (foam balls on long landing legs) is an absolutemust have imho, it should come as standard equipment with the heli.. if your lhs sells an aftermarket landing gear set with longer legs you may with to opt for that as it provides even more stability during take off and landing.


for newby's like myself - without the training gear it is very hard to take off and land without crashing so spend the $20 on it..


batt packs: the NRII runs an 8.4V 7cell AAA pack. I had some sony 850mah AA packs made and it could not get the heli airborne. i have no idea why, but the venom packs seem to put out a lot more punch because the sony's were turning only 1/2 the RPM's. (it was not weight as they are the same cells, but lower outpout giving less rpm at the rotor)


buy 2x of the venom packs as backups. at $32ea. one pack will give approx 5-10min of very crisp response with bucket loads of power, and around 8-10min power + response drops.


the heli will not get as much air because the motor is getting less power + turning less RPM at the rotor, controls/servo'swill slow down a bit, and the tail rotor will start to lose power and cause the heli to slowly rotate (you will slowly add left tail rotor trim to correct as the pack dies)


spares: get yourself a flybar and a landing skid set, although these do rarely break unless you have a bad crash..


flying tips:


keep it VERY low, you only want the heli to have a few inches of air at most so you can glide it around the floor on the foam balls and get used to the feel of the controls. the reason i recomend you stay very low is because if something goes wrong and you need to landyou need to try not to cut power suddenly, but it is easier said that done. flying low makes it less distance to fall to teh ground.


the main rotor creates a lot of turbulance at low altitude, about knee high it flys more stable but i wouldnt fly that high until you are comfortable with the sticks, especially with throttle.. good throttle control and being light on sticks is everything with these things.


Its taken me approx 60min flying time (or about 6 -8 packs) to be able to hold a low alt. hover for 10-15 seconds. After about 90 or so mins i am now confident enough to be able to hover at head height and move around a little without over correcting it.


to start off with you will be constantly swinging the sticks like a madman, always over compensating...but you need to learn to treat it like a womanand be very gentle and light on the sticks so it responds pleasantly, and not violently https://www.ausrc.com/forum/smileys/smiley36.gif


the rotors dont hurt if they hit your shin, however play it smart and safe bby keeping peeps and animals anyway so youdontkneecap anyone or behead your dog.


keep it rotor side up,andkeep it low n safe till your confident in the sticks nobody likes an out of control heli flying at eye level https://www.ausrc.com/forum/smileys/smiley3.gif


DONT FLY OUTDOORS. even on a very light wind, these heli's get blown around a whole bunch.Edited by: Oblivion

Oblivion
07-12-2006, 01:11 PM
dubro super blue silicone fuel tube, 2ft - small


buy some of this, its the same as the little bits of tube they use to hold some of the chopper together (ie landing skids). venom are stingey, and only give you little 2mm long peices which easily get lost when dropped.


This tube you can cut to your own length. I also put a little piece on my tail support leg with it overhanging the tip by a few mm so theend of theplastic leg does not hook in the carpet so badly when landing.





--------------------------------------------------


this part is courtesy of MShagg's advice in my Heli hell (https://www.ausrc.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=9457&amp;PN=1)thread, where he suggested swapping some controls around to make it easier to fly. i have corrected the tail left/right bit (he got it backwards, but its still great advice he gave)


standard out of the box controls are as follows


...........Forward/nose down.......................................Throttle up


left rudder.......+..........right rudder...........roll left......+..... roll right


............Reverse/nose up.........................................Throttle down





brought thetailrotor (rudder) control onto the same stick as throttle and moved the left/right collective (roll left/right) over onto the left stick.


So after the swap i have:


.........Forward/nose down......................................Throttle up


roll Left........+..... roll Right...............left rudder.......+ right rudder


.........Reverse/nose up........................................Throttle down


It was pretty much a matter of opening the controller and swapping two connectors over, and then changing one of the switches on the back of the controller.


Now the chopper skids forward / back / left / right on the left stick, which feels more natural. (to me)





ok, i have posted pictures below. I think this is what they call swapping from "mode 1" to "mode 2" (or visa versa)


http://rc-racing.inghams.net/rc-racing/pictures/temp/plugswap.JPG


http://rc-racing.inghams.net/rc-racing/pictures/temp/Tx%20Dip%20Switches%20-%20modified.JPGEdited by: Oblivion

koinonas
09-12-2006, 06:38 AM
Thinking about getting one of these myself now when I can't go racing. Saw your note saying not to fly outdoors. How big an indoor area do you need to be able to fly comfortably (looking at the size, I'm guessing that a normal sized room in a house won't be anywhere big enough).


Also do these choppers fall into model aircraft category which are illegal to fly in most parks?

Oblivion
09-12-2006, 10:48 AM
most electrics are called park flyers for that reason.. i *think* its only nitro's that cant be flown in parks.


with that said, i have seen a nitro heli fly near our club on a raceday so i think it may depend on local councils.


anyway, these can be flown outdoors on a calm day but what i meant was when you are new and learning to fly dont fly outdoors.. im sure someone who knows what they are doing could fly outdoors.


i have tried hovering out doors and next thing the wind picked up abit and my heli went sideways about 6ft and down into the ground (no breakages).. also outdoors if you get too high the heli might get whisped away never to be seen again (i know a guy whos brand new heli went 3 stories up and then disapeared on its maiden flighthttps://www.ausrc.com/forum/smileys/smiley36.gif


you could learn basic controls then to hover and land but you couldnt practise your box patterns orturns etc, you would need a rompus room or larger room.Edited by: Oblivion

CannonFodder
09-12-2006, 11:16 AM
maybe you can turn the fan or air-con on. It might prepare you for the "real" thing outdoors. https://www.ausrc.com/forum/smileys/smiley36.gif

dame69
09-12-2006, 02:48 PM
it is not recomended too fly in a shed cause the corrigated iron roof and tin walls interfere with frequency travel as well other than that they are heaps of fun

koinonas
09-12-2006, 03:46 PM
Saw a TREX of some sort today. Looks pretty impressive and scary (Was a lot bigger than I had imagined)at the same time. Definitely wouldn't want to be near one of those when it loses control or crashes.


How does size of VNRII (what's overall length) compare with the TREX (think these are around 600-700mm overall length?) and say the smaller Ocean Rescue/Twister Bell 47's (overall length about 430mm). I suspect most of my flying time will be in the underground carpark where I live with the occasional park flight. Main reasons are that its fairly rare to have a park with no ppl around (paranoid of hitting someone) and still not quite sure of legal side yet.Edited by: koinonas

Oblivion
09-12-2006, 05:23 PM
ep's are park flyers as i said.. you will have no probs with an EP heli in a park.


i thin the TREX and others are bigger, mine is about the same size as the twister bell etc, from noseto tail its approx 45cm long


its 42 in adelaide today, and i had to turnoffthe only fan inmy matesroomso i could fly with no turbulance.. it was an absolute stinker in his hobby room but we had fun anyway.


http://users.esc.net.au/~oblivi&#111;n/rc-racing/pictures/my_rc/thumbs/IMG_2122_small.JPG (http://users.esc.net.au/~oblivi&#111;n/rc-racing/pictures/my_rc/IMG_2122.JPG) http://users.esc.net.au/~oblivi&#111;n/rc-racing/pictures/my_rc/thumbs/IMG_2125_small.JPG (http://users.esc.net.au/~oblivi&#111;n/rc-racing/pictures/my_rc/IMG_2125.JPG)
http://users.esc.net.au/~oblivi&#111;n/rc-racing/pictures/my_rc/thumbs/IMG_2126_small.JPG (http://users.esc.net.au/~oblivi&#111;n/rc-racing/pictures/my_rc/IMG_2126.JPG) http://users.esc.net.au/~oblivi&#111;n/rc-racing/pictures/my_rc/thumbs/IMG_2127_small.JPG (http://users.esc.net.au/~oblivi&#111;n/rc-racing/pictures/my_rc/IMG_2127.JPG)
http://users.esc.net.au/~oblivi&#111;n/rc-racing/pictures/my_rc/thumbs/IMG_2124_small.JPG (http://users.esc.net.au/~oblivi&#111;n/rc-racing/pictures/my_rc/IMG_2124.JPG) http://users.esc.net.au/~oblivi&#111;n/rc-racing/pictures/my_rc/thumbs/IMG_2123_small.JPG (http://users.esc.net.au/~oblivi&#111;n/rc-racing/pictures/my_rc/IMG_2123.JPG)

nitro-drifter
16-12-2006, 12:49 PM
Just got one of these little puppies and am having a fair bit of difficulty getting it off the ground.


Any tips on set up of rotors?


Am a complete noob to flying - so i have no clue as to the part names.


What angle should the smaller rotors (ie - not the large main ones!) be at? Mine currently sit about 45 degrees to the main rotor - and all that happens is the heli drifts slowly to the left. Point noted about the skids causing this (possibly). Will check. The highest i have had it is about 5cm off the ground - but the sucker banked left pretty hard and i put it back down.


Batt pack is all balanced - although - should i be getting more than 5mins of flight from one? (std batt). After that - can't get enough rpm to even move - anyway!


Any help is as always muchly appreciated.


EDIT: Should also point out - just put it back on the charger after first flight. Is abut 4hrs since it was taken from the shop. https://www.ausrc.com/forum/smileys/smiley3.gifEdited by: nitro-drifter

Oblivion
16-12-2006, 04:54 PM
it'll take almost 2 hrs to charge the pack with the supplied charger.. leave it on and check temp by hand every 15-20, when it starts getting warm i disconnect it..


it seems to trip my peak detect charger and cause false peaking.. something about those cells as they give you a 12volt charger for an 8.4V batt pack. https://www.ausrc.com/forum/smileys/smiley3.gif


it will take a few cycles for them to really come to life.. put a wooden broom or similar long pole with decent weight through the skids so it weights the heli down and open up the throttle to about 1/4.. .let it sit there and drain the pack at 1/4 throttle till its down on juice as it will also help break in the new motors..


paddles i covered earlier, i'd recomend going and reading all of the initial post and checking everything as you go.. there is a lot more to it than just paddles and one thing set incorrectly can cause vibrations or instabilityEdited by: Oblivion

Oblivion
16-12-2006, 05:47 PM
correction: or if you have 800 packs like me its more like 2+ 1/2 hr charge with the supplied 12v/300mah brick charger.


either way, once they get a little warm theyre done but dont let them get hot.

nitro-drifter
16-12-2006, 09:30 PM
Thank you kindly.


Assistance is appreciated.


Getting there now - however, i did a really sweet eager lift - to 45 degree banking - to snapping the balancer rotor as the heli hit the ground and tried concrete mining.


Got the hover - but balance still a little out after playing with trims. Will revert next week after playing the 'can i find this sparepart' game.


Still love it though!!!!!


https://www.ausrc.com/forum/smileys/smiley4.gif

Oblivion
16-12-2006, 09:46 PM
balancing rotor? i assume you mean the flybar which is the little rod that connects the paddles?


flybar #7657 $6.95 https://www.ausrc.com/forum/smileys/smiley1.gif


everytime i go for one spare i buy a couple of others to take the price up to about $20, it doesnt hurt to have some of the cheap $4 linkages n things on hand.


if you got the cash get yourself a landing skid set + rotation holder (bit the main blades pivot + screw onto) for spares. those 2are about the only parts i seem to break anyway.


i broke another rotation holder about 90min ago when night flying in my back yard + crash landed onto the lawn. (gosh, i really love those clear &amp;still summer nights https://www.ausrc.com/forum/smileys/smiley4.gif)


i tried to throttle up and save it but it made the rotation holder hit the ground harder https://www.ausrc.com/forum/smileys/smiley18.gif

nitro-drifter
17-12-2006, 09:43 AM
Yeah - that's the part. Was explained to me what it is called - i just nodded and asked for it - LHS said "No stock..." trying a few others today - will grab 10 or so to plan for many future endeavours!!


Will have to get you guys some vids at some stage to show you not how to fly!!!

Oblivion
17-12-2006, 10:02 AM
a couple of things i found hilarious


the transmitters antenna is longer than any fishing rod ive ever owned, its huge! fully extended you cant hold the transmitter in the same room as the heli or you will chop half the Tx antenna off https://www.ausrc.com/forum/smileys/smiley36.gif


gotta love teh sticker on the Tx, "warning!!! do not lose control of model" (its a heli, of course im gunna lose control) https://www.ausrc.com/forum/smileys/smiley3.gif

nitro-drifter
17-12-2006, 10:05 AM
LMAO.


I was wondering if it was just me that found the warnings a little strange. I like the fact that every 2nd line on the instructions manual, you get "...could lead to loss of control of the model - and cause serious personal injury."


I wonder why they didn't mention holding the worlds largest lightning rod could do the same???

nitro-drifter
18-12-2006, 06:25 PM
Tip 99A;for Venom Nightranger II starters:


DO NOT run in an underground carpark.


Pipes send an awesome bout of interferenceacross the FM and let you do sweet tricks like - Throttle down, only to see the heli fully accelerate and try and mine through the concrete roof.


Sic. New Rotor.


EDIT =


Picked up a new rotor today - DAMN was it expensive. Ended up costing me $605.00...


.. Did come with a Venom Night Ranger 3D XL though.


WARNING: Flying Helis could well be one of the most addictive RC hobbies around.Edited by: nitro-drifter

nitro-drifter
24-12-2006, 06:51 PM
Now the chopper skids forward / back / left / right on the left stick, which feels more natural. (to me)






Oblivion - when you changed this over initially - did that mean that your trims worked oppostie also?


ie -initially, trim tab - bottom left = rudder left / right adjust ; trim tab bottom right = left / right cyclic adjust.


Post change - did the trims do the same - or do they change when you swap the connections over?


Have parents in law staying with us at the moment - so i think i am going to make myself scarce later and have a crack at this. a little xmas eve hovering in the carpark.

Oblivion
24-12-2006, 07:00 PM
it swaps the sticks and therefore the trims with it. everything works like it should except your flying mode3 instead of mode 2.

nitro-drifter
24-12-2006, 07:07 PM
to go mode 2 - is it just a swap over of the positions of the joysticks?

Oblivion
24-12-2006, 07:10 PM
i beleive mode1 is how it comes out the box.


Mode 1 (europe/asia... also how the NRII was configured):


Left stick = pitch and yaw


Right stick = thrust and roll


Mode 2 (the US):


Left stick= thrust and yaw


Right stick = pitch and roll


So... what we've set up on the NRII is, I believe,a left handed version of mode 2. (known as mode 3)Edited by: Oblivion

nitro-drifter
24-12-2006, 07:28 PM
Ahhh - got you. Have it done now. Will have a bash later.


So - to change these over to mode 2 - you have to swap over the connections to the opposite side - and work out how tochange the throttle return spring to work on the left joystick?


Am quite keen to get into mode 2 ( i believe most ppl use this) as would be keen to get some 3dlessons once i can get the basics down myself.

urin8
24-12-2006, 07:30 PM
I really can't see the point in changing the controls from mode 1, each to his own i guess.
1 more sleep then i can get mine out of the boxhttps://www.ausrc.com/forum/smileys/smiley4.gif
hope i don't crash as the shops are closed

nitro-drifter
24-12-2006, 07:37 PM
I haven't flown it - but the set up would suit me better i think - ie - Gas = left joy, roll / pitch = right. Sort of like driving an old rc with the joysticks instead of the pistol grip remotes.

Oblivion
24-12-2006, 07:42 PM
Ahhh - got you. Have it done now. Will have a bash later.


So - to change these over to mode 2 - you have to swap over the connections to the opposite side - and work out how tochange the throttle return spring to work on the left joystick?


Am quite keen to get into mode 2 ( i believe most ppl use this) as would be keen to get some 3dlessons once i can get the basics down myself.





yeah a lot of peeps use mode 2, or mode 1. would be tricky to change to mode 2 with moving the spring etc, thats why i went mode 3 instead (easy change, just swap 2 plugs)



I really can't see the point in changing the controls from mode 1, each to his own i guess.
1 more sleep then i can get mine out of the boxhttps://www.ausrc.com/forum/smileys/smiley4.gif
hope i don't crash as the shops are closed



because you get roll left/right and pitchforward/reverse on the one stick, instead of half on one stick and half on the other.


when im flying, im always working the left stick but only make minor corrections with the rudder on the right stick, instead of constantly wiggling 2 sticks about.


because i only make minor rudder corrections on the right stick, it means i can concentrate the right stick on better throttle control.Edited by: Oblivion

nitro-drifter
24-12-2006, 10:54 PM
Well - replaced the main shaft, swapped over the controls to mode 3 and went for a bash before Santa gets here- still no joy. Little bugger was wobbling like it was its' job.


So - new flybar and mainshaft - still wobbling. Pitch on flybar paddles is lining up perfect - no wobble when main rotors are off.


Tried tightening and loosening screws that hold main rotors on - still no joy.


However - i understand this could be a very stupid and / or obvious question:


Will it make a difference that i am running two rotors from separate packs? ie - One original - one from a new set i grabbed (have snapped two rotors now... https://www.ausrc.com/forum/smileys/smiley9.gif) same part no's tho.


I peeled the sticker off the original rotor - the new set i got had a heat laminated sticker on it - can't get it off, but is v thin - almost nothing to it.


Would that be enough weight to make a huge difference? Next and final resort is to replace main rotors with a new set - if that fails, i am out of options and still wobbling like a mo fo.

Oblivion
25-12-2006, 06:32 AM
mine has a little wobble when airborne too, i suspect the main shaft.


if the sticker peels, it will affect the flow of air over the rotor. if its stuck down, i wouldnt worry.


maybe you should replace both rotors, especially if you run one with sticker and one without... replace them as a pair and see how u go.

nitro-drifter
25-12-2006, 07:17 AM
Will do mate - my thoughts also. If it doesn't stop wobbling - i could be in a bit of strife. Have replaced all bits that effect the rotor spinning - and still the little bastard wants to breakdance....


Rotor replacementit is.

Oblivion
25-12-2006, 07:51 AM
lol, i assume its like mine where you get a hover going and the rotor blades are hovering steady but the heli seems to do little circles while "hanging" from a steady rotor?


kinda like when you hang your leg from a chair + off the floor and swing your leg in a circle


ive got mine so it doesnt vibrate at all when powering up, but ive got 1/2 a heli worth of spares and the darn shaft is the one i dont have https://www.ausrc.com/forum/smileys/smiley18.gifEdited by: Oblivion

nitro-drifter
25-12-2006, 03:01 PM
Mine is actually on power up. As soon as you increase the rpms - it is like a hoola hoop being dropped - ie, one point touching the whole time - but that point revolves 360 degrees.


Kicks out a mad beat on the ping pong balls of my ' training wheels'. Sort of like a drummer being electrocuted trying to do a drum roll. Looks like it is going to shake itself apart.


I am torn - replaced all the rods on my 3D(main shaft, feather spindle and flybars [the main shaft was quite possibly the biggest biatch ever- took about 2.5hrs solid, as opposed to 15 mins on the NRII]) and it is sitting inside.


I have no wind here - sunny day, and the inlaws. If there was ever a better excuse to go to the park down the road - this is it.


BUT - i have a self imposed ban on the 3D til my skills on the NRII improve. This obviously includes getting it working again!!


http://www.yourbbsucks.com/forum/images/smilies/headsmash.gif


Have just put on a new set of Stage D's on my drifter - am going for a bash with the GT350 shell on. Fords on land will have to suffice. http://www.yourbbsucks.com/forum/images/smilies/burnout.gif


Let you know how i get on with the NRII after new rotors (wednesday). Drifting til then.


http://www.yourbbsucks.com/forum/images/smilies/bananna2.gif


Merry xmas all.Edited by: nitro-drifter

Oblivion
25-12-2006, 04:52 PM
so its the 3D with the wicked wobblies??


if so, my first question would be is there any metal parts around the rotor that possibly got bent also? ie, maybe you tweaked an alloy chassis (if it has one)


i honestly have not looked at the 3D in person so i am only guessing to the above.. its probably like the NRII with mostly plastic?

nitro-drifter
25-12-2006, 05:44 PM
No mate - sorry for the confusion.


NRII has the mad wobbles. 3D is pristine again after a failed landing last week. Sooo danm tempting to go - but ban is in effect until i can bring it to the table with the NRII.


1wicked landing to rotor grass cuton the 3D - fixed it all again - and am letting it sit. NRII i have replaced main shaft and flybars - but i am relatively sure the wobbles on it are from the rotors - i think they are different weights - which is screwing me. Will find out on Wednesday and let you know - will grab some vid if i am airbourne.


EDIT== Also - 3D is mostly alloy. Is a wicked chopper - i just don't have the skills to fly it safely yet!!


https://www.ausrc.com/galleries/nitrodrifter/Night_Ranger_3D.jpgEdited by: nitro-drifter

Oblivion
25-12-2006, 05:51 PM
sounds to me like nothing is bent, but more a setup prob.


did you remove the flybar paddles and check flybar length is equal on both sides when you fitted a new one? then follow it up with removing main rotors and balancing the paddles as best as possible (and then after that, making sure they are level with each other)


and are you using one rotor with sticker, one without? if so i would *think* that maybe the prob..


being a noob i cant really say for definate either, but if we put both our heli noobs heads together im sure we have the answer somewhere between us and stop it chucking a wobbly on takeoff https://www.ausrc.com/forum/smileys/smiley1.gif

nitro-drifter
25-12-2006, 06:06 PM
Absolutely mate. I am such a noob it hurts. Lucky i bought two choppers... my sanity is always up for question.


Flybars etc are all perfect. Pitch on them (without main rotors) is seamless. Just sits there spinning. As soon as i put the main rotors back on - slap her thighs and ride the wave - wobble city.


Logic would say rotors. Think you are right - will see when i get a new set.

Oblivion
25-12-2006, 06:18 PM
one other thing, your paddles are the correct way around? (fitted mine backwards once) https://www.ausrc.com/forum/smileys/smiley36.gif

nitro-drifter
25-12-2006, 06:20 PM
Ya - fat side leading. (i think that's the technical term!).


Want to get to a stage i cant do a circuit - and film the NR3d vs a 18ss stage D setup. THAT would be some 1st time footage! Land vs Air drifting!!!


Just need skills.

Oblivion
25-12-2006, 06:23 PM
it would be so cool just getting good footage of a nitro RC, filmed from an RC heli... as seen on most decent motorsport events https://www.ausrc.com/forum/smileys/smiley4.gif


Heli Cam!!!!!Edited by: Oblivion

nitro-drifter
25-12-2006, 07:06 PM
Now that is a good idea. I note the NRII and the 3D come with a SVGA connection in the back of the remote. Obviously for the camera option [well - connection to the monitor at least].


Will persue that idea and splash your name over the copyright!


http://www.yourbbsucks.com/forum/images/smilies/drive1.gif+http://smileys.smileycentral.com/cat/1027.gif= http://www.yourbbsucks.com/forum/images/smilies/smokeup.gifWICKID


Ok - wednesday -&gt; trip to LHS, and local PI / Spy store for a decent pinhole camera!!!Edited by: nitro-drifter

Oblivion
25-12-2006, 07:18 PM
they do sell some on ebay, you need to get the high quality colour ones though not the cheapie's..


i *think* you get a receiver which plugs into a vid camera, vcr, pc/lappy etc...


plug in back of Tx does nothing apparently, not even good for hooking up to pc for a flight sim https://www.ausrc.com/forum/smileys/smiley19.gif

nitro-drifter
25-12-2006, 07:37 PM
http://www.rcuniverse.com/magazine/newproduct.cfm?product_id=1558


Gotta find a small enought camera with a usb output - and am set!! Well - its a start anyway!!


I think it uses one of the auxillary inputs on the Reciever - could work!

urin8
26-12-2006, 06:49 PM
Here is a short video (click here) (http://video.google.com.au/videoplay?docid=5768526722412789137) of my NRII, I must admit
it is a lot harder to fly than I had expected. It was almost disappointing….

I managed to break a rotor blade Xmas morning when I crashed
into a chair.

I think I was hard done by as I only slid into it with the
power off.

Any ways a bit of super glue and the rotor blade has been
holding up.

The chopper flew awful out of the box; I got a chance to
have a better look at it last night and noticed there was a bit of play in the
rotor shaft. Up and down movement which also moved the swash plate.

I fixed it up this morning after the Christmas cheer had
worn off and had another go, I flew outside, as I’d rather battle the light
breeze than the furniture.

I still found it difficult to fly but at least it was now
flyable with a degree of out of controlness. (that’s the pilot)

like you guys I have also noticed a nasty vibration sometimes and find if
I have both the rotor blades in a straight line and at 90 degress to the fly
bay it goes away.

There is one part of the video where you can maybe see and
hear this. I land and straighten up the blades, which makes a difference I
think.hopefully i can find some new blades tomorrow in brisbane somewhere,


<ohttps://www.ausrc.com/forum/smileys/smiley17.gif></ohttps://www.ausrc.com/forum/smileys/smiley17.gif>

<ohttps://www.ausrc.com/forum/smileys/smiley17.gif></ohttps://www.ausrc.com/forum/smileys/smiley17.gif>

stevo1957
26-12-2006, 06:57 PM
Mate,


Not bad.


How many hours have you been flying?


Cheers,


Steve

urin8
26-12-2006, 07:09 PM
I got the NR yesterday, I've had a twister bell medivac since july but it has been out of service for a while (dead lipo's),
so i'm a bit rusty on the sticks. the NR is way harder to fly. hopefully when i get a new rotor blade i can get it setup a bit better and it will be more stable as it is a bit unpredictable at the moment.

nitro-drifter
26-12-2006, 07:25 PM
Yeah - RTF...... Should be WTF.


Mate - you are doing a lot better than me - although, this is the first time i have left the ground with R/C's. Will grab some videos of my less than avge flying skills and post later in the week.

Oblivion
26-12-2006, 07:46 PM
yeah your doing pretty good there urin8, id say im probably on par with that except i give you extra points for actually using it without the training gear.


sheesh, i tried without the training gear and i could take off ok (bit unstable)but landing was pretty unforgiving.

urin8
26-12-2006, 08:42 PM
hats off to you guys,
i'm glad i ain't learning with one of these, seems a real handful me.
i could scratch my arse mid flight with the medivac
i've had some ugly landings too, not sure landing is the right word for slamming into the ground. i think "early arrival" is the term.

nitro-drifter
26-12-2006, 09:31 PM
I believe the term "mining" has a good deal of likeness to some of my moves.


I will have to get down to the park on a calm day (haven't had one since i got it!! when i have not been at work). So far, i am hovering either in my loungeroom (4x6m) or in the underground carpark (Long, but only about 4m wide &amp; 2.5m high).


I also enjoy the 3D moved called "fly it full pi$$ into a garage door, breaking only parts not in stock @ lhs". That one seems to keep the crowds happy.


Cant keep me down though. Will keep on until i break it properly. Edited by: nitro-drifter

urin8
26-12-2006, 09:46 PM
LOL https://www.ausrc.com/forum/smileys/smiley36.gif

Oblivion
27-12-2006, 08:10 AM
hats off to you guys,
i'm glad i ain't learning with one of these, seems a real handful me.
i could scratch my arse mid flight with the medivac



https://www.ausrc.com/forum/smileys/smiley36.gifi did think the medivac and ocean rescue helis looked pretty easy to fly, but it definately has given youa bit of an edge with the NRII






I believe the term "mining" has a good deal of likeness to some of my moves.





roof mining? thats an art mate, its the upright equivalent of bumping the rotor head on the ground during inverted 3D flight.. you should be proud! https://www.ausrc.com/forum/smileys/smiley2.gif


if you can, try find a local hall of some type and you could offer them $5 donation to fly in their hall during quiet times of the day... might wanna have a few packs on hand to make it worth while.


any of you guys bought extra 800 packs? ive got 2x spares (total 3) and i noticed they are all AAA packs, but one pack is ~2cm shorter than the others yet the same Mah ratinghttps://www.ausrc.com/forum/smileys/smiley29.gif

nitro-drifter
27-12-2006, 08:15 AM
I am VERY tempted to grab a brushless - and a lipo for the little guy. More oomph, more batt pwr - hopefully not more crashes!!!


EDIT = but yes, prob more crashes..... However - best way to learn to swim is to be thrown in the deep end!!!Edited by: nitro-drifter

Oblivion
27-12-2006, 09:07 AM
wheres flibble been hiding, i wanna hear how he's going with his NRII that he got for xmas...


hey Vaughn, have you got it airborne yet? we know your out there https://www.ausrc.com/forum/smileys/smiley2.gifEdited by: Oblivion

urin8
27-12-2006, 01:52 PM
any of you guys bought extra 800 packs? ive got 2x spares (total 3) and i noticed they are all AAA packs, but one pack is ~2cm shorter than the others yet the same Mah rating


yer i bought 2 packs, but the ones i bought are longer than the pack that came with it. unfortunately the 2 long packs are gutless as and can only get it up a few feet. the smaller pack has enough power to blast it off into space.

all packs are the same AAA 800mha rating and are all venom packs,, go figurehttps://www.ausrc.com/forum/smileys/smiley29.gif

on another subject, i was just having a bit of a fly out the back when i lost radio contact with the chopper. it just drifted off at waist hight, put on a bit of a death spin and flew into the trampoline. not to sure what went on there but it has been ok since. i'm just happy it didn't break my new rotor blades that i picked up this morning .

Oblivion
27-12-2006, 02:37 PM
any of you guys bought extra 800 packs? ive got 2x spares (total 3) and i noticed they are all AAA packs, but one pack is ~2cm shorter than the others yet the same Mah rating


yer i bought 2 packs, but the ones i bought are longer than the pack that came with it. unfortunately the 2 long packs are gutless as and can only get it up a few feet. the smaller pack has enough power to blast it off into space.

all packs are the same AAA 800mha rating and are all venom packs,, go figurehttps://www.ausrc.com/forum/smileys/smiley29.gif



thats exactly what i found, i have one that has never given any decent power at all, quite frustrating @ $30 per pack.

urin8
28-12-2006, 10:08 PM
have a look "here" (http://stores.ebay.com.au/rc-hobby_Drag&#111;nfly-4-Spare-Parts_W0QQcolZ2QQdirZQ2d1QQfsubZ8QQftidZ2QQtZkm) and see what you think.
as far as i can see, these parts are the same as the night ranger II.
heaps cheaper prices than my lhs. my rotor blades cost me $30
the $9.20 delivered ones look good to me.https://www.ausrc.com/forum/smileys/smiley2.gif
let me know if you try any of these parts, as i don't need anything at the moment.

managed to break the Rotation Holder Assembly, so I'm out of action until it arrives,
I already had ordered one else where.

Oblivion
28-12-2006, 11:06 PM
a lot of the dragonfly 4 parts look very, very similar indeed.. the main chassis looks identical in the pic as do many other parts..


nice find!Edited by: Oblivion

urin8
30-12-2006, 07:51 PM
I couldn't handle not being able to fly my chopper, found a GWS dragonfly rotation holder at the LHS which i had to mod a little to make it fit, noticed a fine bend in the rotorshaft while i was at it and straightened that out too.
that must be the end of my gremlins cause finally my NR flys nice, i can now let go of the sticks for a few seconds and it will hold the hover.
https://www.ausrc.com/forum/smileys/smiley1.gifhappy as a pig in ....

Oblivion
30-12-2006, 07:58 PM
mine has been flying like a dog lately, fighting it just to get it airborne for a second or two before i have to bail...


time to go back to scratch and give it a bit of a service i think

urin8
01-01-2007, 01:24 PM
Damm my tail motor just burnt out. lucky i was close to the ground when it happened. bit disappointing seeing it is only a weak old. think I'd better buy a few of them..........

Oblivion
01-01-2007, 01:31 PM
what happened, it just start over rotating and went into an uncontrollabledeath spin?

nitro-drifter
01-01-2007, 01:51 PM
My NRII is behaving badly also. Going for another bash now - tried shifting the servo connection down the servo horn a little to make it less sensitive - however, to balance it out you need to reset all the servos - as this just made it less sensitive on one side of the cyclic.


Not to mention - when the batteries start getting low - the chopper doesn't powerdown immediately when you do on the TX - not a great help when you need to put it down to save it.


I also heard via my lhs - a fair few ppl have been complaining about the RTF claim for the NRII. In version 3 - apparently venom are releasing it with a DVD on how to ensure it is set up and how to fly it.

urin8
01-01-2007, 02:47 PM
what happened, it just start over rotating and went into an uncontrollabledeath spin?

yep that would pretty much sum it up.
the tails is usually very stable, I thought it a little strange when it started to wander a bit yesterday.

as for flying out of the box, i think if you can already fly a chopper it would probably be ok.
my NRII wasn't too bad, main problem was a bur on the bottom of the rotor shaft which was stopping the spur gear from sliding right up tight. this left some up and down play, making it harder to fly. once i fixed that it was pretty good.
my main problem is the pilot......https://www.ausrc.com/forum/smileys/smiley5.gif

when i got my twister bell i wasn't even able to trim it up because it was so far out of adjustment. (full trim left, full stick left and it still flew to the right)
took me a while to figure it out even though it is very simple as i had no idea how a helicopter worked.
though that dual rota chopper was fantastic to learn the controls on and a lot of fun as well.
personally my NRII is another fun learning step towards getting something bigger and better( if i can afford it)
the NRII is like a $150 chopper RTR, i think it is good value for the price. imagine walking out of a hobby shop with a $150 car pfffft...

BTW i've manage to bodge up my tail motor and get it going for now.https://www.ausrc.com/forum/smileys/smiley4.gif

nitro-drifter
01-01-2007, 02:55 PM
Point taken.


Had another bash then - is going ok now. Just a little difficult with a snapped skid - have been making do since saturday arvo. Soon as the LHS is open again - will be back on track.


Good point about the play on the main rotor - will have to have a better look at mine and see if this is the issue - is a new main shaft tho - and relatively tight.


Had it at about shoulder height just then, not going too badly - then all of a sudden, it was like the chopper started to rotate (in a wobbly fashion) around the rotors while they were spinning. The tail rotor kept it straight - but was like Oblivion's point a few posts ago - sitting on a chair with your leg hanging down, rotating it in circles....


Also - i saw Kyosho brought out a new version of the Calibur 30 (Caliber 3 (http://www.kyosho.com/eng/products/rc/detail.html?product_id=100350)). Has a one piece stabliser bar - as opposed to the flybar with paddles. Is supposed to make setting up a lot simpler - ie one less thing to maintain.


Not a bad idea for noobs like myself. Doesn't help the learning curve, but makes it a lot easier to get right the first time. Might have to look into this bad boy in April.

urin8
01-01-2007, 03:12 PM
hey nitro drifter, i found at first I was pushing the sticks way too hard and over doing it. try and make as small a movement on those sticks as you can. also when you straighten out the rotors bump the fly bar paddle down and see if they hang to either side. if it does than keep adjusting the rotors till it is more balanced, i also found this helped a lot as it flies smoother with out vibrating.

nitro-drifter
01-01-2007, 03:28 PM
Cheers mate.


Def started off trying to use the sticks like a car (ie - full turn to full turn) have it going a little better now - but still learning. Also noticed - if i loosened the rotors a TINY bit from where they were - they straightened out when rotating if i had it wrong.


Have them sitting about pinch tight now. Is a good little heli to learn on though. Getting better each run. Have about an hour of flying time under my belt now. Can only improve (hopefully!!).


Deadset love helis though. Was a bad choice for me - as now i want more.

Oblivion
01-01-2007, 03:47 PM
with the skids, i ended up gluing all my old ones back together.. even added a drop of glue around the mounting point of the skid to strengthen it a bit.


when it breaks if you keep the little bit that always snaps off the skid you can re-align it perfectly.


heck, this time i had new skids that are a bit loose and fell off mid flight!! i glued the suckers up (once again, ONLY at the skid) and they have beensuper solid since. https://www.ausrc.com/forum/smileys/smiley32.gif


of course i would never glue the skid leg to the actual heli frame https://www.ausrc.com/forum/smileys/smiley5.gifEdited by: Oblivion

nitro-drifter
01-01-2007, 06:59 PM
Yeah - went through the superglue facade - however, due to my lack of intelligence - when i initially did it - i decided it would be a really gpood idea to use blue-tac in the interim. Got most of it off - but some still there when i used the glue - keeps snapping back off at the original break. The training ball clips hold it in tho.


I was thinking - do you think some alloy body mount posts (from an rc car) could work? Bend them up a little at the front - the skid mounting posts could fit into a mount hole on the posts?


I might have a go - will see what eventuates.

Oblivion
01-01-2007, 07:10 PM
i wouldnt go alloy due to weight but you could probably go plastic which is cheaper to experiment with.


it all comes down to keeping the weight down though, i got a twister training set on mine as its wider and they mount much better than the little venom clips.


it clips onto the foot of the skid itself, i had to go back to the shop for them to show me because its real novel idea but confused the heck out of me and one counter salesman https://www.ausrc.com/forum/smileys/smiley36.gif

urin8
01-01-2007, 09:25 PM
I broke one of my skids at both mounts, had it glued but it would come apart again if i came down hard on it. I drilled the 2mm holes in the skid a bit deeper. removed the broken bit that was still on the leg and glued the legs in the new holes.
has been good so far.

had a nasty crash today trying to fly in the wind,
not like i would have expected that,,,,
busted one of the front legs. i had some 1.6mm SS tig wire in the shed which made a nice replacement. would probably work nice on the fly bar too.


I ordered 2 tail motors and a couple of other bits from that link i posted earlier I'll let ya's know if they fit OK.

flibbulator
02-01-2007, 06:34 AM
urin8, I ordered the rotors and some spares as well so it will be great if they fit. I think I paid $7 for rotor blades vs $28 from the shop I purchased the heli.

nitro-drifter
02-01-2007, 06:36 AM
Try this one for fun:


http://www.rcflightsim.com/download.html


Can hook up your tx via a serial port connection. Am tracking down one this week. Details on the site.


I have found a better flight sim - more realistic, this one is ok in the interim. Will fwd details when i pick it up.

nitro-drifter
02-01-2007, 12:47 PM
Ok - got some avge vid quality. You guys outrank me by miles on the NRII - but hey, keeping up with the Jones's.


https://www.ausrc.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=9813&amp;PN=1&amp;TPN=1

urin8
02-01-2007, 03:34 PM
hey guys check this one out, it's too windy outside
http://video.google.com.au/videoplay?docid=8323023479837916483

flibbulator
02-01-2007, 03:38 PM
<DIV>
hey guys check this one out, it's too windy outside
http://video.google.com.au/videoplay?docid=8323023479837916483

</DIV>
<DIV></DIV>
<DIV>How many hrs have you done to this point fella? Everyone just runs screaming in terror when I get the heli out https://www.ausrc.com/forum/smileys/smiley6.gif</DIV>

nitro-drifter
02-01-2007, 03:48 PM
hey guys check this one out, it's too windy outside
http://video.google.com.au/videoplay?docid=8323023479837916483




Geebus. Now is a good time for me to run and hide from the shame. Well done on the skills mate. You want to get paid for some lessons??


https://www.ausrc.com/forum/smileys/smiley32.gif

flibbulator
02-01-2007, 04:58 PM
Glad I'm not the only one feeling a little humbled by urin8's progress. I have soooooo far to go.

urin8
02-01-2007, 05:08 PM
sure this will cheer u guys up

http://www.members.optusnet.com.au/urin8/opps.jpg

Oblivion
02-01-2007, 05:42 PM
its probably worse than it looks


broken skid, i assume the other has lost the tubing and just fell out since its not broken.. batt pack has fallen out on mine but it never broke (even tho i have spare batt holder)


flybar and rotors look intact...


what did you actually break besides one skid?

stevo1957
02-01-2007, 06:10 PM
Ouch,


You know, I'm really glad that I chose the Spekrum set up over the heli.


So far, I haven't spent anything on repairs for it!https://www.ausrc.com/forum/smileys/smiley2.gifhttps://www.ausrc.com/forum/smileys/smiley36.gif


But seriously lads, if you consider the purchase price at around say $160, how much would you have spent on repairs to get to this stage of your flying careers?


I'm interested as I will probably get into a heli for my next purchase and would still be umming and arring as to what to pick between something similar to these NRII's or a dual coax rotor jobbie.


Cheers,


Steve

nitro-drifter
02-01-2007, 06:11 PM
Ahh yes - I see you are trying to emulate my special landing style. To do it the best way - yuo have to make sure you break things that are out of stock at the LHS.


No matter mate - you are still light yrs ahead of me. Now i have a few days to sneak in a few more hrs!!!!


EDIT = $$ to date on NRII:


Approx:-


- $150 for initial purchase
- $30 on rotors (x 2 sets)
- $11 on main shaft
- $7 on a flybar
- $6 on main shaft linkages
- $20 on training balls (orange ping pong balls on lengths of wire)
- $3.50 for a tube of superglue
- $2.00 double sided tape
________


$229.50 total (approx)


Getting a coax chopper will reduce the amount of stacks - but make it more difficult to eventually upgrade to a larger chopper - IMO of course.Edited by: nitro-drifter

urin8
02-01-2007, 06:24 PM
had some dinner and a couple of cans of happiness before i even had a look at it.
I put all the bits back where they were supposed to go and apart from using few drops of super glue everything thing is good, still flies great. amazing

i was down the soccer fields about 8m up and a gust of wind got hold of it, from which i could not recover, man it hit hard.
I'm really surprised nothing is busted.

Oblivion
02-01-2007, 06:38 PM
its surprising how much abuse they take considering to look at half it is match stick thick lengths of plastic rod..


most of my spares are still in the heli toolbox unopened..


im on my 2nd training set (beat the snot out of the venom ones, now using twister set)


so broken bits : flybar, tail boom, venom training set, 2x landing skids (reglued and ready for re-use)


and a main chassis which is also repaired and kept as a spare..

X
02-01-2007, 06:42 PM
I love the look of these little heli's..





can anyone tell me what the difference between the Night ranger 2..and this one?


http://www.rchobbies.com.au/store/product_info.php?cPath=37&amp;products_id=7345&amp;osCsid=7e9a6b9321f52e0fad3ad873759bc032





the Night ranger 2 is also only like 159$ now at rc hobbies..so yeh, any info on the one in the link would be awesome





thanks ryan

nitro-drifter
02-01-2007, 07:08 PM
The link you gave is to the original Nightranger 3D.


That chopper enables you to utilise negative pitch, aswell as positive - meaning - you can fly it upside down. The nightranger II is a fixed pitch chopper, meaning, you can only throttle up and power down- you can't fly them upside down.


That is my limited understanding of the main difference. I am sure a heap of guys here can correct my terminology.


Oh - the other difference is - NRII is a 4ch heli, 3D is a 6ch (for +/- pitch control)

urin8
02-01-2007, 07:20 PM
my broken bits so far
1 rotor blade, a pair $30
1 rotation holder assembly, got one off a different heli $20.
1 tail motor, (repaired) but bought 2 new ones


any other bits have been repaired.
i have bought some other parts but only for spares,

please don't ask how much I've have spent on carshttps://www.ausrc.com/forum/smileys/smiley2.gif
which btw haven't seen much use lately

if you are interested there is a NRII for sale here (http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&amp;rd=1&amp;item=260070163437&amp;ssPageName=STRK:MEWA:IT&amp;ih=016)

X
02-01-2007, 07:34 PM
The link you gave is to the original Nightranger 3D.


That chopper enables you to utilise negative pitch, aswell as positive - meaning - you can fly it upside down. The nightranger II is a fixed pitch chopper, meaning, you can only throttle up and power down- you can't fly them upside down.


That is my limited understanding of the main difference. I am sure a heap of guys here can correct my terminology.


Oh - the other difference is - NRII is a 4ch heli, 3D is a 6ch (for +/- pitch control)











Sweet, I never new electrics could fly up-side down..gotta get one of them!

nitro-drifter
02-01-2007, 07:42 PM
Here is a link to the heli you are talking about - with a bit of upside down!!!


http://216.227.214.60/videos/vnr3d_video.wmv


EDIT = Oops - that was the carpark link.


Here is the one i was thinking of:


http://216.227.214.60/videos/night_ranger_3d.wmvEdited by: nitro-drifter

X
02-01-2007, 07:45 PM
Here is a link to the heli you are talking about - with a bit of upside down!!!


http://216.227.214.60/videos/vnr3d_video.wmv








your a champion..





however, will it take a person who has never flown a heli before long to get the hang of atleast getting it off the ground for starters?

Oblivion
02-01-2007, 07:46 PM
im on my 2nd training set (beat the snot out of the venom ones, now using twister set)


so broken bits : flybar, tail boom, venom training set, 2x landing skids (reglued and ready for re-use)


and a main chassis which is also repaired and kept as a spare..





whoops, that reminds me..


add 3x rotation holders + 1 dead servo


https://www.ausrc.com/forum/smileys/smiley36.gifEdited by: Oblivion

nitro-drifter
02-01-2007, 07:53 PM
Here is a link to the heli you are talking about - with a bit of upside down!!!


http://216.227.214.60/videos/vnr3d_video.wmv








your a champion..





however, will it take a person who has never flown a heli before long to get the hang of atleast getting it off the ground for starters?





Ermm - yes.


Put it this way - I bought an NRII - loved it so much, i opted for a Nightranger 3D XL (newer version of the 3d - brushless, belt driven tail rotor, mainly alloy etc) and nailed the sh!t out of it first go.


Needless to say - it only cost $50 to repair, but is sitting on a shelf, restored to pristine condition - with a self imposed ban until i can get the NRII going better.


The 3D is A LOT easier to get in the air - and to hold steady, but it is a heap more sensitive on the sticks for the 3D stuff (ie - virtually direct input - you touch the sticks - the chopper JUMPS that way).


You are better off going the cheap version ($150 for NRII) and getting your skills on that - as when you upgrade - you wont believe how unstable it is compared to it's bigger brother - but by then, you will have (in theory) the reactive skills needed to fly the upgrade.


Either way - good luck and be warned - IT IS VERY ADDICTIVE. Touched my on-roads once since i started flying.


EDIT - got all amped up. Going down to the carpark now for another bash!!!Edited by: nitro-drifter

X
02-01-2007, 08:01 PM
thanks for that....hmm my Mugen MTX-4 is frowning at me right now..haha..nah I'll always race him..





I've been lookin on model flight..and have also came across this chopper..


http://www.modelflight.com.au/rc_model_helicopters/twister_collective_pitch_heli.htm


you got any idea on how good it is? or should I stick to the venom range..?

Oblivion
02-01-2007, 08:11 PM
same as the nr 3d, different brand..

urin8
02-01-2007, 08:17 PM
<div>How many hrs have you done to this point fella? Everyone just runs screaming in terror when I get the heli out https://www.ausrc.com/forum/smileys/smiley6.gif</div>

Ah, you make me laugh flibble, i reckon you should write a book.

don't forget this is heli Number 2 for me, i got a twister bell last birthday, which started this chopper thing.
so i already knew which way to push the sticks n stuff.
i could fly the bell in any direction (rotation) but am having trouble getting past 90 degrees with this one.

stevo1957
02-01-2007, 08:42 PM
So you blokes haven't spent as much as I thought on repairs.......... very promising indeed.


They look like a lot of fun.


Cheers,


Steve

nitro-drifter
02-01-2007, 08:49 PM
Anything which jolts the learning curve is fun in my book.


They really are good fun - can be frustrating, but there is no better feeling than being able to do something you couldn't before. Sort of like the reverse of marriage.


Thank god my wife is not a member here!


In all seriousness - if you are after something that takes time to acquire skill - i would lean toward being airbourne.


Here is what about 14 yrs of flight experience gets you. Alan Szabo Jr. Need i say more? http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3iWIRGaBoZI


And - just for fun - a flying boat. Literally.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2CG1hTsif24

blingy_mini-t49
02-01-2007, 08:52 PM
All this chopper talk is making me want to sell up the rex x (again) and get my self a heli https://www.ausrc.com/forum/smileys/smiley17.gifIm suprised I havnt already got one since I fly planes for real and I wana be a chopper pilot when/if i grow up.

blingy_mini-t49
02-01-2007, 10:06 PM
Cant find the delete post buton??Edited by: blingy_mini-t49

davway
03-01-2007, 07:46 AM
I've been lookin on model flight..and have also came across this chopper..


http://www.modelflight.com.au/rc_model_helicopters/twister_collective_pitch_heli.htm


you got any idea on how good it is? or should I stick to the venom range..?


i have one in the mail. should be here tomorrow.


as far as ive researched they are a bit stronger than the Venom counter part.


they are pretty much the same as the NR3D but alot of parts arent interchangable so they are not the same thing essentially.


search around, i got mine for a LOT less than $298 and it came with wooden blades as extra as well.

Buzzard21
03-01-2007, 08:26 AM
I have been flying these things for a little while and thought I might chuck in a few thoughts.


Venom Helicopters are really Walkera Helicopters re-labelled and with different support. Most of what I hear is that the extra support can be worth it but it does not extend to any crash damage (What you actually tries to fly [email protected]#$)


The NRII is actually a Walkera Dragonfly 4
The NR3D is a Walkera Dragonfly 22E with a 22D Canopy
The NR3D XL is a Dragonfly 60


Walkera electronics are a bit dodgy, I had to replace two of the three servos on my NR3D before all the jitters went away (not under warranty because I had flown it). If you buy a Venom, use Walkera parts to fix them. It is much cheaper. Two sets of blades for a 22E are $11USD from www.Florastore.com (http://www.Florastore.com)as opposed to one NR3D set for $25AUD from www.Modelflight.com.au (http://www.Modelflight.com.au).


Personally I would not buy a NR3D again even though I had heaps of fun with it.


I would buy a Walkera Dragonfly 4 to learn on (it usually comes with a FMS simulator chord so you can practice on the computer)


As soon as I could fly figure eights with it, I would go for a full collective heli like the Twister 3D. A bit more expensive that the Twister CP as you have to supply your own transmitter and Receiver, but a lot easier and more stable to fly.


Once you were happy with that get a T-Rex. I've got one but its like $1200. Way too much to start with.

Oblivion
03-01-2007, 08:40 AM
well i gotta say, im very impressed with venoms customer support..


2wk before xmas when my servo died i called them and was told that if its unmodified/case unopened they would warranty it no probs.


so i sent in the doa servo with a new swashplate (see below) with a little explanation saying L/R cyclic servo died mid flight, causing uncontrolled emergency landing but luckily it only broke a landing skid.


also sent them a brand new swashplate with pics of the original swashplate so i could show them the new ones are re-designed and didnt work for me...


i called late yesterday to confirm they received it via X-post and they done the usual "we'll take your details and get back to you"


ive heard that about 3x in the last few wksfrom other companies so i kinda thought to myself"oh yer, heard that b4.. dont call us we'll call you"


then this morning i get a call from Venom, the really nice guy on the ph says they have warrantied the servo no problem at all AND threw in a new skid set for me..


and as for the swashplate he found several of the old design and threw them in also!!


my original swashplate isnt broken but the bottom half seperates from the bearing + upper half.. he said assemble it and get a solder iron on the inside ofthe swashplateand lightly melt the plastic outward a little bit so it wont come apart.


so in a nutshell: they warrantied the servo, threw in a landing skid set, gave me several swash plates AND some advice on how to fix the existing one..


great customer service, the guy was extremely polite and helpful! i rate them an A+ for customer service! https://www.ausrc.com/forum/smileys/smiley4.gif

Oblivion
03-01-2007, 08:52 AM
I have been flying these things for a little while and thought I might chuck in a few thoughts.


Venom Helicopters are really Walkera Helicopters re-labelled and with different support. Most of what I hear is that the extra support can be worth it but it does not extend to any crash damage (What you actually tries to fly [email protected]#$)


The NRII is actually a Walkera Dragonfly 4
The NR3D is a Walkera Dragonfly 22E with a 22D Canopy
The NR3D XL is a Dragonfly 60





just noticed your post after i had posted mine and that reminds me of something else that Venom CS had to say..


"occasionally a change occurs to a part and we are not notified, and we dont find out until afterwards..." -- he was referring to the new design with their swashplate..


the first part in italics is what really made my ears stick up, because venom CS arent notified of a change to a venom heli? huh? then with me reading the above post and also having seen the DF4 parts online which look identical(especially that main chassis!!!)


it all makes sense now..

urin8
03-01-2007, 02:11 PM
not a bad read here (http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_3690435/tm.htm)

i got those walkera parts today, they fit fine. excellent fast service (http://stores.ebay.com.au/rc-hobby_Drag&#111;nfly-4-Spare-Parts_W0QQcolZ2QQdirZQ2d1QQfsubZ8QQftidZ2QQtZkm) and cheap

I haven't even heard from the other well know much more expensive shop that i ordered from 6 days ago https://www.ausrc.com/forum/smileys/smiley6.gif

stevo1957
04-01-2007, 08:42 AM
Guys,


I'm really tempted to sell my soul to my financial controller at home to get one of these things.


As I'd want to do it as cheap as possible, what do you think of these:


http://cgi.ebay.com.au/New-4-CH-RC-Walkera-Dragonfly-4-FP-Elecrtic-Helicopter_W0QQitemZ120069367735QQihZ002QQcategoryZ110026QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem (http://cgi.ebay.com.au/New-4-CH-RC-Walkera-Drag&#111;nfly-4-FP-Elecrtic-Helicopter_W0QQitemZ120069367735QQihZ002QQcategoryZ110026QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem)


If the NRII by Venom is the same as the Dragonfly 4, it seems a good deal, given the freebies that are included and as local pickup is involved, no extra costs for delivery.


Can anyone tell me however, if 35mhz FM is a legal frequency here in Oz?


Any comments appreciated.


Cheers,


Steve

Buzzard21
04-01-2007, 09:02 AM
I've dealt with this guy before and had nothing but good service with reasonably fast delivery and reasonably priced parts. You can get them slightly cheaper OS from www.florastore.com (http://www.florastore.com) but it takes a lot longer to get the parts.


I actually bought one of these after my NR3D and had an absolute blast with it. As I said before easy to fix and relatively cheap to fix (but it flies real bad once you know how to hover and do figure eights).


I have questions about 35mhz as we are actually supposed to use 36 mhz but when you read the Class Licence you can see that we are definately supposed to only use 36 or 40 mhz or the club insurance may be invalidated. If we are not in a club with insurance then ... Even the licence says other frequencies should not be used in sites covered by insurance not that they can not be used.


Also the 36 mhz range actually includes some of the 35 mhz range as well. So it all becomes a bit blurry.


http://www.acma.gov.au/ACMAINTER.1507598https://www.ausrc.com/forum/smileys/smiley5.gifTANDARD:https://www.ausrc.com/forum/smileys/smiley17.gifc=PC_300<A href="http://www.acma.gov.au/ACMAINTER.1507598https://www.ausrc.com/forum/smileys/smiley5.gif</A>


So, unless you intend flying with a proper RC club,I would not worry about it too much. So many of these things have been sold in the past I doubt the authorities are going to be chasing you around the block with some van with an aerial array on top of it.Edited by: Buzzard21

Oblivion
04-01-2007, 09:09 AM
my NRII is 36mhz, 36.340 to be exact... and 40mhz is for land RC's not air.


its quite possible the 36 range extends down into high 35's... you can get 27mhz radios running 26.995 (right on the border of 27) and im pretty sure 40mhz does the same by very slightly breaching into 39's..


hey Urin8, your a bloody champ with that link!! https://www.ausrc.com/forum/smileys/smiley20.gif


ive been wondering why my heli is a dog to control lately, turns out i must have unknowingly clipped the swashplate/rotor head to the smaller ball connectors on the swash plate giving the heli reduced handling response.


after reading that link i re-connected them to the longer ball connectors on the swashplate and its flying like a champ again..


https://www.ausrc.com/forum/smileys/smiley9.gifoh the shame of it all, assuming they were just generous in giving you 2x extra places to connect the links incase one broke off.... but NOPE they do different things https://www.ausrc.com/forum/smileys/smiley36.gifEdited by: Oblivion

Oblivion
04-01-2007, 09:21 AM
Guys,


I'm really tempted to sell my soul to my financial controller at home to get one of these things.


As I'd want to do it as cheap as possible, what do you think of these:


http://cgi.ebay.com.au/New-4-CH-RC-Walkera-Dragonfly-4-FP-Elecrtic-Helicopter_W0QQitemZ120069367735QQihZ002QQcategoryZ110026QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem (http://cgi.ebay.com.au/New-4-CH-RC-Walkera-Drag&#111;nfly-4-FP-Elecrtic-Helicopter_W0QQitemZ120069367735QQihZ002QQcategoryZ110026QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem)


If the NRII by Venom is the same as the Dragonfly 4, it seems a good deal, given the freebies that are included and as local pickup is involved, no extra costs for delivery.


Can anyone tell me however, if 35mhz FM is a legal frequency here in Oz?


Any comments appreciated.


Cheers,


Steve





that heli and especially the transmitter ARE the spitting image! of a venom setup... that transmitter is IDENTICAL to mine! https://www.ausrc.com/forum/smileys/smiley3.gif


theyve thrown in a twister training set, i can see how it clips on the skid and its exact same thing.. and id definately pay the $6 for another pack as shown in the ebay ad.


hows about sharing around that software cd when it arrives, and telling us what pin goes to where on the cable so i can make one of my own https://www.ausrc.com/forum/smileys/smiley1.gif


http://rchobby.com.au/images/walkera/walkera4/grag&#111;nfly4.jpgEdited by: Oblivion

Buzzard21
04-01-2007, 10:08 AM
The CD just has a copy of the FMS software on it. You can download it from


http://n.ethz.ch/student/mmoeller/fms/index_e.html


Its a pretty basic Flight Simulator, but gets you using the sticks OK.


There are links to sites with instructionsfor various transmitter connectors to the serial port.


You then use PPJoy to create a virtual Joystick for FMS to use.

Oblivion
04-01-2007, 10:56 AM
ok, i just purchased the pc cable and software from the rchobby heli store at the low price of $9, i couldnt be arsed soldering up plugs n stuffing around for that price..


also didnt hurt to throw a few parts in the order either https://www.ausrc.com/forum/smileys/smiley2.gif


will look into ppjoy, would that allow me to use the Tx on other flight software?

Buzzard21
04-01-2007, 11:15 AM
Particularily when you consider there is usually a PIC chip inside the interface which needs to be programmed etc.


Windows installs the Transmitter as a virtual Joystick so technically, any flight simulator that can use a windows joystick should work. Most of the commercial RC flight sims don't use the windows joysticks for commercial reasons. (You have to buy their USB interface)


I never found the Interface Cable by itself at RCHobby, how did you do it? The Interface Cable will befor a Walkera Transmitter, Not necessarily a Venom Transmitter if you have the NRII. The only difference between the two transmitters that I have been able to find is the Helicopter Logo on the front of the transmitter is reveresed.


The connector appears to be the same and all the electronics inside the transmitter appear to be the same. Let us know if it works OK

Oblivion
04-01-2007, 11:33 AM
had no idea there was any chips in it, ive made various other cables (sonygamepadto pc cables etc).. glad i didnt go that route then https://www.ausrc.com/forum/smileys/smiley9.gif


as you can see in the pic above your right, the only difference in the tx is the little heli logo reversed and we get the word "venom" added to it.. otherwise identical


i emailed the guy from rchobby, he said the cable + software isnt listed on the site but order a training kit @ 8.80 and put in the notes you want the software + cable instead.. he emailed me not more than 15min later and confirmed my order and that the cable will be sent.


also noticed cheaper online store prices, i guess he added a cupla bucks to ebay store stuff to cover feebay expenses.


i mainly want it for practising side in or tail out hovering and stuff, i dont care if its unrealistic because for meits just about getting the control responseto be instinct instead of thought driven (you dont get time to think when flying these things!)


edit: on another note, i had my tx standing upright on my table last night and bumped it over on the sticks, and one of the sticks lost its spring feel and kinda felt a bit screwy...


took it apart and noticed a little locate pin had popped out so a little push back in and all is good again..


the point of this, is that i had a real good look and can see its really not that hard to swap the spring and ratchet over from one stick to the other if anyone wanted to go mode2


Edited by: Oblivion

stevo1957
04-01-2007, 11:55 AM
RCHobby are good - emailed him re the radio frequency and he responded real quick.


He only sells 36mhz systems so all will be legal.


At $125 with 2 batts, training gear, sims, spare blades etc it looks pretty good for what in effect is a NRII anyway.


Looks like I've got some persuading to do at home.


Cheers,


Steve

Oblivion
04-01-2007, 12:17 PM
sheesh, way to make a guy feel shafted over his $170 heli with no extras https://www.ausrc.com/forum/smileys/smiley19.gif

X
04-01-2007, 12:32 PM
sheesh, way to make a guy feel shafted over his $170 heli with no extras https://www.ausrc.com/forum/smileys/smiley19.gif





NRII is $149 at www.modelflight.com.au (http://www.modelflight.com.au) ...

Oblivion
04-01-2007, 12:40 PM
i couldnt find it? the only ones they have is the ocean rescue and the 3d?


ill take your word for it tho

jastel
04-01-2007, 01:29 PM
Frontline Hobbies are also selling the NRII for $149.... might have to go get one.....

Oblivion
04-01-2007, 01:33 PM
yeah yeah rub it in https://www.ausrc.com/forum/smileys/smiley17.gif

koinonas
04-01-2007, 03:32 PM
I've been watching this thread intently out of interest. I ended up backing out from NRII and getting myself an Ocean Rescue as its easier to fly indoors (where most of my flying will be).


When I was researching I found that Venom was almost identical to Walkera (apart from some cosmetics). There appear to be a whole stack of different brands and models which are either virtually identical clones or use the same parts (I think Walkera 5#4=Venom OCR, Walkera DF4=Venom NRII, Walkera 52= the new Venom mini 3D thing). You'll also find that the general consensus on the net is that Walkera's seem to make reasonable (budget range)choppers with unique crap electrics. Venom seem to have interchangeable parts, but better quality control and more reliable electrics.


So having seen that, I'm still happy with my Venom OCR, but am about to go shopping for Walkera spareparts (I can hover around but have broken most of my blades after realising the wash off the rotors in a smallfurniture filledroom plays havoc with these tiny choppers)

koinonas
04-01-2007, 03:36 PM
Also if you're interested in getting a free sim, go to http://www.realflight.com and you can download a demo version of their G3 simulator. The demo seems to be fully operational, but only allows you to fly at one field with either a plane or a raptor 30?

X
04-01-2007, 04:22 PM
so want to buy one of these..but im just worried its going to be a waste of money..ie, like a piece of $150 [email protected] I really dont know what I want to buy.. lol I got onto arch heli..and everyone on there despises these helis and reckons I should spend a grand onsome trex thing..but im not spending a grand on a little heli.


Which heli do u think is more durable? the NR 2, NR 3D or the twister CP?

Oblivion
04-01-2007, 04:39 PM
well i cant speak for the others as i havent owned all of them..


but i can honestly say my nrII has taken plenty of bad stacks and with the price of parts being $5 or so its always cheap to fix..


id actually like to see pics of the other guysbroken rotors, i still cant beleive they actually brokethem. ive got a littletiny chunk out one but its not brokenhttps://www.ausrc.com/forum/smileys/smiley3.gif


worst part about any elecy is probably batteries. you wont be happy with just one battery and to be honest i wouldnt buy standard packs again i'd look into lipos but the good lipo chargers are almost as much as the heli, without adding the price of good packshttps://www.ausrc.com/forum/smileys/smiley18.gif


standard 800nimh packs are ok, but just dont last long enough and i dunno bout the other guys but i can charge all three packs and *still* find one or two that had abelow averagecharge..


edit: id go the same route as steve and get the walkera DF4, its cheap and you get a pack and the training gear for less than u can get the venom.. however you are probably paying for the customer support with the venom which you wont get with the DF4.


customer support, or save money..


Edited by: Oblivion

jastel
04-01-2007, 05:45 PM
Farkin spewin, just went into my LHS and theyre sold out of NRIIs and the Ocean Rescue one.... dammit!!

jastel
04-01-2007, 06:36 PM
What do you guys think of this one HERE (http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Walkera-Drag&#111;nfly-76C-Micro-Elecrtic-RC-Helicopter_W0QQitemZ120069368814QQihZ002QQcategoryZ110026QQtcZphotoQQcmdZViewItem)



I might get that one as thats what I was going to spend on the NRII.

Oblivion
04-01-2007, 06:42 PM
that actually looks real nice for an extra $30. says it *can* be upgraded to 3d, but i like the skids + tail boom...

blingy_mini-t49
04-01-2007, 08:32 PM
Looks really good, Im so tempted to sell the rex and go into helis......

urin8
04-01-2007, 09:09 PM
sheesh, way to make a guy feel shafted over his $170 heli with no extras https://www.ausrc.com/forum/smileys/smiley19.gif

the night ranger is worth the extra, cause it's got a cool black canopy.......

Oblivion
05-01-2007, 11:02 AM
got my cable + software today, its nothing more than a 4pin Din plug going to a serial plug... no chips or anything just a plain cable as i suspected.


seems to work fine, except the throttle and tail rudder are swapped (throttle is left right, rudder is on ratchet)


im awaiting a reply from the rchobby guy, see if he has any suggestions..


lately my heli has been playing up too, it flies great for a little while then all of a sudden i lose tail control and it goes into a left hand spin..


if i land or reduce throttle for a bit it all comes good for a while but eventually acts up again..


i hope it aint the 4in1 https://www.ausrc.com/forum/smileys/smiley18.gif

X
05-01-2007, 11:06 AM
I love the look of this heli, anyone know what it would be like to get parts for? and is it the 3D model? I'm not too sure.. better yet, is it a piece of crap? haha thanks guys





http://cgi.ebay.com.au/New-Walkera-Dragonfly-60-eCCPM-RC-Electric-Helicopter_W0QQitemZ120070875578QQihZ002QQcategoryZ110026QQtcZphotoQQcmdZViewItem (http://cgi.ebay.com.au/New-Walkera-Drag&#111;nfly-60-eCCPM-RC-Electric-Helicopter_W0QQitemZ120070875578QQihZ002QQcategoryZ110026QQtcZphotoQQcmdZViewItem)

Oblivion
05-01-2007, 11:08 AM
its 3d capable, 6channel radio.

X
05-01-2007, 11:23 AM
its 3d capable, 6channel radio.





Being a person who knows nothin about the heli's though, does that one look good? seems to have some metal parts in good places..and a strong lower section?

Oblivion
05-01-2007, 11:37 AM
i really dont have the experience or knowledge to give any opinions or views on whats hot and whats not..


but if your asking for the personal opinion of someone who knows diddly bout all the various helis i'd say it does look good.. collective pitch and the chassis/skid/boom setup is nice, just like the $140 one linked above in a previous post.


parts, strength, quality, good for noob flyers or not?i have no idea mate, sorry..


but for $250 it does look better quality but *looks* alone can be deceiving.

Oblivion
05-01-2007, 11:51 AM
Damm my tail motor just burnt out. lucky i was close to the ground when it happened. bit disappointing seeing it is only a weak old. think I'd better buy a few of them..........


when it occured, i assume it was a left hand spin?


re-reading this thread and im wondering if my tail motor is on its way out aswell, it would explain why it starts to rotate on its own sometimes and its the same direction that a weak tail motor which cant counteract the gyro effect would go

Oblivion
05-01-2007, 12:19 PM
ok, ive sorted out the software.. we use 5,6,7 + 8 for controls.


others who are using the standard mode1 setup, you will probably have to correct your settings since i use mode3 and the rudder/roll are swapped.


http://users.esc.net.au/~oblivi&#111;n/rc-racing/pictures/temp/venom-Tx%20settings.JPG


and its all working great!!

urin8
05-01-2007, 12:19 PM
I dunno much about choppers either but believe the CP or 3D choppers take quite a bit more to get setup. more complex with more moving parts so if you don't know what u are doing setting up or repairing from the unavoidable crashes could be a real headache for a noob. i think the general idea of learning to fly a fixed pitch 4 ch heli is that it is so easy to repair. having said that, even the fixed pitch chopper will fly like a pig if everything is not right.
if you are learning you are gonna crash and crash lots, well i do
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Oblivion
yes (nose) left spin.
as you can imagine, the brushes in those ,little motors are made of very thin copper stuff.
i was able to remove the end bell and bend the defective brush over a bit more.
that motor was still going ok after the repair but I swapped it over once the new one arrived.

blingy_mini-t49
05-01-2007, 12:21 PM
its 3d capable, 6channel radio.





Being a person who knows nothin about the heli's though, does that one look good? seems to have some metal parts in good places..and a strong lower section?





If you have no flying experiance (1:1 or RC) you would be beter of starting off with somthing simpler like one with counter rotating blades, or a 4ch one. You also need lipo batterys to make them get off the ground. And it doesnt come with a simulator so you would have to lean the hard way.

stevo1957
05-01-2007, 12:55 PM
that actually looks real nice for an extra $30. says it *can* be upgraded to 3d, but i like the skids + tail boom...


From a bit of research, those who have considered upgarde say it isn't worth it. Better to buy a 3D capable heli all set up.


Apparently, you need to replace receiver and TX to a 6 channel setup and buy a few other bits and pieces.


But yes, for an extra 30 bucks it does look like a decent unit which is easier to hover than the cheaper Dragonfly 4 model.


Cheers,


Steve

urin8
05-01-2007, 03:25 PM
id actually like to see pics of the other guysbroken rotors, i still cant beleive they actually brokethem. ive got a littletiny chunk out one but its not brokenhttps://www.ausrc.com/forum/smileys/smiley3.gif

heres mine, broke xmas morning https://www.ausrc.com/forum/smileys/smiley19.gif
think it was a dud blade as it broke so easy.
I had to wait 2 days for the shops to open.

https://www.ausrc.com/forum/members/images/urin8/5BC_Image3.jpg


TIP
I put a real small washer on the rotor shaft under the circlip as it rubs on the bearing outer housing. this way i can keep the spur gear up nice and tight (no play)
https://www.ausrc.com/forum/members/images/urin8/C93_Image1.jpg


I also put my battery holder together "accidentally" so i can slide the battery in from the front. also glued it to the chassis rails once it was balanced nice, so it is always in the right spot.
rubber band stops battery falling out.
like this
https://www.ausrc.com/forum/members/images/urin8/1E5_Image2.jpg

Oblivion
05-01-2007, 03:32 PM
with the main rotor shaft/spur up and down play i removed the shaft and filed the top of the keyway a slight bit, now its all nice and snug.


i noticed you can push the spur on snug but when u do up the grub screw it actually pushes the gear downward, as if the keyway was a little too short and the grubscrew hitting the edge..


thin washer looks like a real good, simple fix though!


edit: forgot to mention, gota dragonfly 4 tail boom, main gear/shaft and a rotation holder (bit rotors screw onto) and it all *looks* identical to the existing parts.. i havent actually checked the spur is the correct teeth/pitch but it looks identical.Edited by: Oblivion

stevo1957
06-01-2007, 09:47 AM
The more research I do, the more people are saying stick with the Dragonfly 4 over the other Walkera heli's including the 76C.


And here's something for you guys who keep breaking the skids -


http://www.heliguy.com/Forum/extreme-skids-t2147.html


Cheers,


SteveEdited by: stevo1957

jastel
06-01-2007, 10:27 AM
Well i'm not getting one now..... my monitor blew up and my car needs new engine mounts to pass regohttps://www.ausrc.com/forum/smileys/smiley19.gif

stevo1957
06-01-2007, 10:41 AM
Gidday Jason,


The monitor and engine mount replacements may work out cheaper than the heli in the long run, mate!https://www.ausrc.com/forum/smileys/smiley2.gif


I'm thinking about the Dragonfly 4 - Not a lot of money if things don't work out with it.


Cheers,


Steve

Oblivion
06-01-2007, 11:05 AM
incase anyone gets the clearview demo (nice sim btw)


http://users.esc.net.au/~oblivi&#111;n/rc-racing/pictures/temp/clearview-NRii%20settings.JPGEdited by: Oblivion

Oblivion
08-01-2007, 01:11 AM
thanks to farmers union iced coffee i had another caffiene fueled late night and come up with a pretty good fix for our heli skids.

<LI>spend $1 on a bit of spring wire thats the same thickness as the legs of the skid.
<LI>Turn the skid over and use a small file to widen the groove so the spring wire can just fit in it.
<LI>heat up the tip of the spring wire and push it through the broken skid leg mounts from the top, then clean off any plastic bitsout ofthe groove with your file so the groove is nice and clean.
<LI>bend the spring wire into a U shape, making sure to do the bends at exactly the right point (might have to straighten wire and retry to perfect it)
<LI>push the skid down over the U shaped spring wire and check it all fits nicely. the skid groove should hide the bottom of the spring wire.
<LI>when it fits good slide it up the wire a little then run a thin dribble of glue in the groove and pu**** togetherso the bottom of the wire is hidden within the grooveof the skid and push them together firmly sothe wire isnt stickingpast the bottom.
<LI>trim the excess wire to the correct length of the original skid leg and make sure both left/right wire skids are identical length so your heli sits nice and level.
<LI>file the sharp edges off the end of the spring wire so its nice and smooth so the sharp wire ends dont risk damaging the chassis..</LI>


i havent tested this yet as its late and im still making my 2nd skid, but it looks natural with the standard plastic skid on the bottom and should be much stronger, while the spring wire should also allow a little flex on bad landings.


http://users.esc.net.au/~oblivi&#111;n/rc-racing/pictures/temp/heli%20stuff/DSCF2218.JPG


http://users.esc.net.au/~oblivi&#111;n/rc-racing/pictures/temp/heli%20stuff/DSCF2225.JPG


http://users.esc.net.au/~oblivi&#111;n/rc-racing/pictures/temp/heli%20stuff/DSCF2226.JPG


http://users.esc.net.au/~oblivi&#111;n/rc-racing/pictures/temp/heli%20stuff/DSCF2227.JPG











-----------------------------------------------


i did do another ghetto mod at my mates place earlier in the week but its nowhere near as neat but it gets you out of trouble.


get a bit of the small heli assembly tube and slide it down to the bottom of the skid leg so it rests on the skid mount. then slide regular nitro tube over the top so it grips the heli tube and the broken mounting point on the skid.


it will hold both together reasonably well till you can fix it properly but it does need a smallbit of the skid mount to be left on the skid or it cant grip anything. if the skid mount broke off flush at the bottom, it wont help.


http://users.esc.net.au/~oblivi&#111;n/rc-racing/pictures/temp/heli%20stuff/DSCF2229.JPG


edited to fix dodgy linksEdited by: Oblivion

nitro-drifter
08-01-2007, 06:45 AM
Love your work Oblivion.


Will have a crack.


One other quick question to you NRII owners:


How much play does your flybar have? I understand it needs to move vertically - but should there be any play at all horizontally? Mine seems to be rather loose - with about 2 - 3mm of play laterally.


Wondering if this is contributing to instability issues.


Finally got my NRII hovering (stationary) at about 6ft last night. Was more of a mistake than intentional - but it sat motionless for about 5 secs.


Getting there slowly.

Oblivion
08-01-2007, 10:29 AM
mine has at least 2-3mm play, probably more like 5mm actually.


it appears to be at the flybar tray (i think thats what its called) but i think its just a bit of flex and nothing to worry about.

nitro-drifter
08-01-2007, 11:10 PM
I have just noticed, on the very few times i can get the NRII up - the tail rotor is randomly having bursts of speed. Just all of a sudden the helistarts rotating anti-clockwise - fast.


I think it is similar to what was mentioned in the post urin8 did a while back. Would this be the beginning of a tail motor burnout?


http://www.nitrodrifters.com/cgi-bin/noticeboards/attachments/3844/28419/avge.zip


still need a decent camera.


Edited by: nitro-drifter

Oblivion
09-01-2007, 12:12 AM
that sounds like whats happening to me at the moment.


the more i power up, the more the tail cannot hold its heading any more and starts to rotate nose left, which is the tail not working hard enough to counteract the gyro. https://www.ausrc.com/forum/smileys/smiley19.gif

nitro-drifter
09-01-2007, 09:02 AM
I tried turning up the sensitivity of the gyro - [reverse side of the receiver - small screw counter-clockwise] and it seemed to counter the rotation issue ok - but every now and then, the burst of speed from the tail rotor just kills it. Might try a new tail motor and see how it fares. Edited by: nitro-drifter

Oblivion
09-01-2007, 09:42 AM
exact same thing as me, i tried increasingthe gyro sensetivitybut it doesnt help https://www.ausrc.com/forum/smileys/smiley7.gif


that flybar play is getting a bit worse on my heli, ive had a good look and its the pan head assembly wearing out which allows flybar movement within it.Edited by: Oblivion

nitro-drifter
09-01-2007, 09:44 AM
Could be time to fix the tail motor with a hammer.


Will get another on Friday (damn monthly pay!!)


Let you know if this resolves the issue


------------------------


EDIT = Had the gyro screw too far out. Less now - was ok. Add to issues, One left / right cyclic servo tho... worn out. https://www.ausrc.com/forum/smileys/smiley7.gif


Friday.Edited by: nitro-drifter

urin8
09-01-2007, 07:25 PM
How much play does your flybar have? I understand it needs to move vertically - but should there be any play at all horizontally? Mine seems to be rather loose - with about 2 - 3mm of play laterally.


Wondering if this is contributing to instability issues.





I had a look at mine, and it is less than 1mm i'd say it is about 0.5mm play.

this could be because of the GWS rotation holder assembly i used (the bit that fits on top of the rotor shaft)
I had to mod it to fit and it is a very tight fit.


maybe this helps with my stability but i reckon i't cause i'm a tops pilot https://www.ausrc.com/forum/smileys/smiley4.gif

I returned the 2 extra venom battrey packs i bought as I was only getting a few minutes out of them, very disappointing. the pack that came with the NRII is great.. I've ordered 2 packs from rc hobby, I'll let ya's know how they go.

nitro-drifter
10-01-2007, 03:50 PM
Got a new set of skids today - a short vid clip is here (http://www.nitrodrifters.com/cgi-bin/noticeboards/attachments/3845/28420/NRII-short1.zip)(3MB)


Ran a lot smoother without the training wheels. Have the parts, but am yet to replace tail motor and rotation head assembly.


A job for after dinner.

urin8
10-01-2007, 03:52 PM
I got the batteries today, even on their first charge thay are as good or better than the "good" venom battery i have. 1 with close to 2min extra flying time on its first charge, amazingly only rated at 650ma too, $28 for two express posted, i'm very happy with them.

urin8
10-01-2007, 10:25 PM
a short vid clip is here (http://www.nitrodrifters.com/cgi-bin/noticeboards/attachments/3845/28420/NRII-short1.zip)(3MB)

looks good nitro drifter, a lot more control than last time, keep at it.
speaking of control, i've been having one crash after another today,
first i crashed at work, was great flying in a big shed. then i flew outside and flew into some trees, then nearly hit myself, ducked, crashed and managed to step on the dam thing.https://www.ausrc.com/forum/smileys/smiley18.gif
I've used more parts today than in the last 2 weeks.

todays damage:
rotation holder
rotation holder assembly
tail rotor
tail support bar
front battery holder mount
and cracked the tail boom

tip: don't stand on your heli

Oblivion
10-01-2007, 10:28 PM
ouch!! thats nasty https://www.ausrc.com/forum/smileys/smiley18.gif

nitro-drifter
11-01-2007, 05:30 AM
tip: don't stand on your heli




https://www.ausrc.com/forum/smileys/smiley36.gifMurphy's law mate.


You would think with the overly large amounts of stickers and pages of warnings, they would have come up with:


"not to be used as a step ladder..."


Also - i changed over the new rotation assembly holder - much more stable in the air - a little play there still, but not as much. Doing the tail motor as soon as i get back from the LHS this arvo - replacing a rotor.


They don't hold up too well against steel garage doors.Edited by: nitro-drifter

nitro-drifter
12-01-2007, 01:06 PM
Got the new tail motor on - amazing what happens when you actually set the heli up properly!! Stripped it all down when i did the assembly holder and i *think* i have it set up now better than other times.


I can now lift off straight up - give about 20cm each way - with only using the throttle [ie - one hand]. Have turned the gyro back down - seems to be more balanced.


So - IMO seems like the NRII was pretty close to being RTF out of the box - only problem was the noob pilot!


Can do a battery pack now setting down only once or twice the whole time. Getting about 4mins of flight time from the orginal batt pack - could be time to get a new one.


5 times easier to control without the training wheels - though they saved me much $$ during my initial hacking.

Oblivion
12-01-2007, 03:10 PM
so the prob was the tail motor on its way out eh, i might have to get one of them and then replace my rotation pan head assembly holder coz i can see itsworn badly with loads of slop.

stevo1957
12-01-2007, 03:14 PM
I'm impressed - you heli novices are actually starting to sound like professionals!https://www.ausrc.com/forum/smileys/smiley2.gif


Still working on the financial controller at home - not looking promising, even if it is only a few lousy hundred bucks I'm trying to extract from the bank.https://www.ausrc.com/forum/smileys/smiley19.gif


My dear wife thinks I spend too much on my "toys" as it is..........but a fella can never have enough toys, even if he is turning 50 this year.


Cheers,


Steve

urin8
12-01-2007, 06:01 PM
amazing what happens when you actually set the heli up properly!!


Getting about 4mins of flight time from the orginal batt pack

yes, getting it setup is a big help, finally have mine flying ok after i stood on it. it is not quite as stable with the original rotation holder assembly. i believe this is one of the more important parts of the heli stability wise. maybe thats why it got such a fancy name?

I'm getting over 7mins continuous fight time at around head hight with my new batteries and around 5-6 mins with the original (no wind).
peak charge em at 1amp, never used the supplied charger.

Oblivion
12-01-2007, 06:07 PM
ill have to give that a try, the original charger just makes the packs hot and you have to keep stopping/starting the charge but my peak charger sometimes false peaks the packshttps://www.ausrc.com/forum/smileys/smiley7.gif Edited by: Oblivion

nitro-drifter
12-01-2007, 06:08 PM
I'm getting over 7mins continuous fight time at around head hight with my new batteries and around 5-6 mins with the original (no wind).
peak charge em at 1amp, never used the supplied charger.






I just had my first run on the new battery - gave about2mins flight time. I initially charged it for two hrs on the wall charger - was v avge. I have been using my quik charger (set @ 1am) for the other battery - and it has been good - takes about 15min to charge- obviously reduces the life span off the batt - but a 15min rest is all i can comfortably handle at the moment! Just put it on the quick charge - see how it goes.


Addictive bl00dy hobby!

urin8
12-01-2007, 07:07 PM
takes about 15min to charge

it should take about 45min to charge a "empty" 800ma pack,
(battery capacity divided by charge rate = time
800ma/1000ma = 0.8 60min x 0.8 = 48min)https://www.ausrc.com/forum/smileys/smiley23.gif
you would have to charge it a 3amps to do it in 15min or false peaking?

nitro-drifter
12-01-2007, 07:16 PM
Honestly don't know mate. I am about to go down for another bash now - will get the name of the charger.


Seems to charge very quickly - has been good for the Evo 3 car also. Although it did take up to 30mins to charge a tx.


Another snippet of my training...-&gt;


movie.wmv (10MB) (http://www.nitrodrifters.com/cgi-bin/noticeboards/attachments/3846/28421/Movie.wmv)

urin8
13-01-2007, 12:54 PM
had a servo die mid flight this morning, https://www.ausrc.com/forum/smileys/smiley19.gif
lucky for me i crash landed on the couch.

I ordered one of the walkera ones, $12 compared to $38 for the venom one.
just have to wait untill tuesday for it to arrive.

ordered some other parts for spares, as well as another battery. the first 2 are working great and hold charge very well.

flying is looking good nitro-drifter, that looks like a great area with plenty of room to fly in.

nitro-drifter
13-01-2007, 04:34 PM
I broke a flybar this morning - trying to do a 180 bank turn and LHS only had the 3dxl flybar (steel). I grabbed it as it was the right thickness, but about 4cm longer.


Could be just that i finally have my heli set up ok - but i felt it gave a little more control or stability when in motion.


Oh - my batts weren't charing because the 12v car batt i was using was flat. https://www.ausrc.com/forum/smileys/smiley9.gifNoob.


Is all charged again now - seems to charge better with power!


Avid of hovering with the 3DXL flybar - here (http://www.nitrodrifters.com/cgi-bin/noticeboards/attachments/3848/28423/l&#111;ng.wmv)(13MB)

Oblivion
13-01-2007, 04:58 PM
your hoverings getting really good mate. i was aboutthe samelevel of hovering when it was flying good but tail motor put me out of action till i can get another.

nitro-drifter
13-01-2007, 07:37 PM
your hoverings getting really good mate. i was aboutthe samelevel of hovering when it was flying good but tail motor put me out of action till i can get another.








Would you believe one knock was all it took to bugger my tail motor??? Back casing keeps popping off the engine. https://www.ausrc.com/forum/smileys/smiley7.gifThe 3DXL flybar works a treat too - definitely more stable - but more importantly it survives the crashes. Nailed it at least 4 - 5 times into doors and floors - held up fine.


Crahses.wmv (http://www.nitrodrifters.com/cgi-bin/noticeboards/attachments/3849/28425/crash.wmv)


EDIT ==fixed link==


Edited by: nitro-drifter

urin8
13-01-2007, 08:15 PM
i flogged one of the servos off my twister bell, with the aid of a zip tie it fits ok.
heli seems a bit unstable i can't seem to figure it out, it will fly fine with a fairly stable hover, then out of now where it spears off in random directions, is real hard to get back under control, then is fine again... i must be missing something.

nitro-drifter
13-01-2007, 08:38 PM
I find that the main rotor control links keep popping off the rotation holder. [had to have the manual out for that one]. I give them a good pinch before take off each time to make sure they are snapped in as far as possible.


Could be something different - but i noted that i got similar behaviour on the NRII and that seemd to help.

Oblivion
13-01-2007, 08:40 PM
yeah i lost my entire rotor holder with rotors a couple of times due to them links. its quite funny but humiliating all at the same time when it happens infront of friends.


i got a real small square of a thick plastic RC parts bagand putit over the ball before snapping the link on.


its barely noticeable, but it makes it much firmer. (im a tight wad, i didnt want touse my new $4 links yet, not enough wear) https://www.ausrc.com/forum/smileys/smiley9.gifEdited by: Oblivion

urin8
15-01-2007, 05:35 PM
here is my latest progress video (http://video.google.com.au/videoplay?docid=-6829677577284875136&amp;hl=en-AU), looks ok till i fly nose left and crash, still push the sticks the wrong way sometimes https://www.ausrc.com/forum/smileys/smiley5.gif
think the problem i recently had was the connector on the twister servo i used was a bit loose, causing some interference, i zip tied it to the other plug so it couldn't move, problem gone.
when is you vid coming bliv, i wanna see u crash toohttps://www.ausrc.com/forum/smileys/smiley1.gif

tip:
i drilled a 2mm hole right through the centre of the bearings on the rotation holder assembly, pushed through a bit of the 2mm leg/flybar rod and cut it off flush with the face of the bearings. this seem to make it a lot more solid, definitely made it fly smoother. you also have to make a notch in the centre of the rotation holder to clear the rod.

Oblivion
15-01-2007, 05:52 PM
gotta get a new tail motor first, been a bit slack with it the last week actually. https://www.ausrc.com/forum/smileys/smiley9.gif

nitro-drifter
15-01-2007, 06:01 PM
Nice tip mate.


Going off to find my drill now!!!


Solid work on the heli. You got enough control and stability there to deliver airbourne beers at your next party.


Just getting the hang of the box with the heli sideways - my brain justshort circuits flyingwhen i am not behind it.


Mind you - i am one of those guys that turns his head on the car games to see better round the corners.

urin8
15-01-2007, 07:03 PM
Mind you - i am one of those guys that turns his head on the car games to see better round the corners.

glad i'm not the only one, the surround sound messes with me. I keep looking over my shoulder to see the cars beside me... der

another tip:

I got one of those tiny washers from the tail motor screws and drilled it out to 2mm.

then fitted it on the flybar between the rotation holder assembly and
the flybar control tray. 1 washer took all the lateral play out of my
flybar, you may need to put one washer each side. initially it was a
little tight but loosened up after a few flights.

nitro-drifter
21-01-2007, 09:53 AM
Just grabbed a LIPO for the NRII.


Is a killer. At least twice the power - but, in the battery break-in period so far, i just had about 17mins of actual flight time - and pulled up short (@ batt 11.0 v).


Is a 800mah (12.6v). Will grab some vid at some stage.


Definitely worth the $50 (pending you have a charger that can charge LIPO's properly.


Cost =


1. 800mah LIPO batt [$50]
2. 1 x cable tie [spare]
3. Rectangle piece of plastic from the DVD front cover of one of the wife's chick flicks. [paid for every day of my marriedlife so far]


https://www.ausrc.com/galleries/nitrodrifter/heli_lipo1.jpg


https://www.ausrc.com/galleries/nitrodrifter/lipo_heli.jpgEdited by: nitro-drifter

Oblivion
21-01-2007, 09:57 AM
your running an 11v lipo in an 8.4v heli? https://www.ausrc.com/forum/smileys/smiley3.gif

nitro-drifter
21-01-2007, 10:02 AM
https://www.ausrc.com/forum/smileys/smiley4.gif


Yeah i know. I managed to grab an old 3D engine also - and was going to break this one first before swapping over.


- 5mins sessions were killing me.


Edited by: nitro-drifter

Oblivion
21-01-2007, 10:07 AM
yeah i know what you mean, the stock packs just dont give you a long enough fix.. kinda comparable to having to refill a nitro car every 3min instead of 8-10 its incredibly frustrating..


so the 3d motor just fitted straight on eh? what about the 4 in1, i would have thought its gunna have a melt down?

nitro-drifter
21-01-2007, 10:12 AM
I managed to grab most of an old 3D of a guy who crashed it - got the sh!ts and wanted to call it quits. Also have the skid assembly which i might try and mod to fit.


Not trying to go to town on the NRII - just wanted more flight time and the 3D bits were too cheap to pass up. I *think* i got to the stage where i needed more air time to enable more thorough practice of handling more than a hover.


ps - i did get the ESC + Gyro from the 3D, but after 2 runs of 15+ min with the original setup (w/lipo) is all still going. I noted they say it is LIPO ready - but am i heading towards some type of atomic explosion? Or just a wear out of the motors at twice the speed?Edited by: nitro-drifter

urin8
21-01-2007, 10:14 AM
looks like the dragonfly 4 has had an upgrade with a new rotor head and color scheme.
http://rchobby.com.au/product_info.php?cPath=43&amp;products_id=371

i'm on my third tail motor now, i'm looking for some kind of tail motor upgrade.
i found this dual motor setup but it still uses the same motors. i think it would be better to fit one larger motor.


https://www.ausrc.com/forum/members/images/urin8/twinMotorSysPic1.jpg

go nitro drifter, thats some power, i have read that the system can handel up to 12v ok. it is supposed to be a good idea to add a 7.5 amp fuse, without it, if the motor dies/shorts out it will blow you 4 in 1 with the extra power.

there is a "huge" amount of DF4 info here (http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_2833333/mpage_1/key_/tm.htm)

tip,
i took the spur gear off so the rotor could spin freely, held the heli on its side with the rotors horizontal to check they were balanced. one was slightly heavier so i added a strip of insulation tape about 40mm long near the tip of the lighter blade to balance it.
runs even smoother now.

nitro-drifter
21-01-2007, 10:19 AM
Forgive the Noob question - where would i put the fuse?


Agree - on my 3rd motor too. This one is starting go - ie, all smooth, then all of a sudden very eratic.


Keep us posted with any advancements there.


EDIT -=


Ok - just burnt out the tail motor. Now accepting all "I told you so's" and any other disparaging remarks about adhering to voltage recommendations. Looks like it's time to do the swap over to the 3d parts.Edited by: nitro-drifter

Oblivion
21-01-2007, 10:31 AM
but having 2 motors, wouldnt it half the current to each motor therefore each one is only doing 1/2 the work it used to? im probably wrong but i thought the prob with the tail motor burning out is from it getting higher voltage than its rated to?


ok ive got my fire extinguisher, and im ready for my Q to be shot down in flames https://www.ausrc.com/forum/smileys/smiley36.gif

urin8
21-01-2007, 11:06 AM
Forgive the Noob question - where would i put the fuse?

I would put it between the main motor and the 4 in 1.

i had read the info in the link mentioned above, there are some 240 pages and i could not find it again.

i might go have a look at jaycar though the week and see if i can find a suitable motor to use on the tail with out too much modification.

urin8
21-01-2007, 11:15 AM
but having 2 motors, wouldnt it half the current to each motor therefore each one is only doing 1/2 the work it used to? im probably wrong but i thought the prob with the tail motor burning out is from it getting higher voltage than its rated to?

i think you are right, half the current and half the load.
less load/current = less heat generated and stops the tiny little brushes from burning out as quickly.

stevo1957
21-01-2007, 12:50 PM
Gidday all,


Well, here's the latest Walkera 4 with revised servo and tail motor:<A href="http://rchobby.com.au/product_info.php?cPath=43&amp;products_id=371" target="_blank">
http://rchobby.com.au/images/walkera/4/drag&#111;nfly_4_1.jpg


</A>http://rchobby.com.au/product_info.php?cPath=43&amp;products_id=371


Cheers,


Steve


(PS - Gotta get me one of these!!)Edited by: stevo1957

d3xx
21-01-2007, 10:26 PM
Hey i have a walkera 4. ( same as NR II). It took a tumble and now the tail motor goes psycho irrelevant of stick input. what is the cause of this?

nitro-drifter
22-01-2007, 05:22 AM
How long have yuo been flying it?


I am on my 3rd tail motor and only got the NRII in late November / early december.


It could be a couple of things, my guess would be-


1. Tail motor is on its' way out
2. The tumble could have effected the gyro



Ensure everything is plugged into the RX properly. Possibly turn your gyro down a little. Ensure trims are not biased to one side.


Check those things and if no joy - am sure there are a few other things to check.

d3xx
22-01-2007, 09:34 AM
Ok not sure about how to adjust gyro since the manual was totally useless.

nitro-drifter
22-01-2007, 09:39 AM
http://www.nitrodrifters.com/home/helishome/venomnightrangerii.html


Am starting to put up my experiences to date regarding this heli. There is a link to the manual there - page 3 explains the gyro. Assuming the Walkera is a mirror set up to the NRII - which the general consensus is (I think!).


Only started it the other day - but will get it up to date when i get some more time.


EDIT - grabbed a 1800mah lipo (8.4v) this arvo - as the plan to integrate the 3D parts was at best - a stupid idea. Well - at least i have a new tail motor now....Edited by: nitro-drifter

velopilot
23-01-2007, 01:42 PM
http://www.nitrodrifters.com/home/helishome/venomnightrangerii.html


Am starting to put up my experiences to date regarding this heli.
There is a link to the manual there - page 3 explains the gyro.
Assuming the Walkera is a mirror set up to the NRII - which the general
consensus is (I think!).



Great idea. Here's one that helped me cut down vibration from the NR
II. Making sure the blades are accurately aligned makes a huge
difference. I used a thin piece of string to run along the length of the blade. See this post for a diagram :


<a href="http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=829528" target="_blank" target="_blank">
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=829528</a>






Edited by: velopilot

velopilot
23-01-2007, 05:24 PM
I've had my NR II for around 2 months. I'm new to RC heli's, and have had some experience with RC fixed wing prior to this. I've been lucky, total damage so far is a pair of blades and a rotor head. So around $30 in parts. I can now hover a battery pack without crashing, but only tail in. If I try to hover nose in, it's like learning to fly all over again. https://www.ausrc.com/forum/smileys/smiley6.gif

One tip that I'm not sure has been covered. If you move the flybar weights from the default position (up against each flybar) to all the way inboard towards the rotor head, it becomes quite a bit more responsive to the controls. You probably only want to do this if you feel that you're past the stage of over controlling. You can move them part way in if you just want it a little more responsive, but you need to be careful to move both equally to keep things balanced.

The NR II is a great little heli if you take the time to set it up properly (mechanically levelling the swash, balancing the blades and flybar, etc) and then trim it well. I can fly hands off for around 2 -3 seconds before it starts to depart in some direction. I haven't had any tail motor issues, and I have around 6 hours on my NR II. I did adjust both the main and tail motor mesh to ensure it's not too tight - a tip I got from another forum. It's a bit hard to explain, but you don't want it too loose, or too tight such that it causes excess friction that heats up and kills the motor..

Here's a great thread that's worth reading if you want to know more about the NR II. Chris Nicastro from Venom R&amp;D posts and responds very well to user problems. While the Venom range of heli's may well be just overpriced Walkeras, I've never seen a Walkera rep in any forum taking flak from customers..

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=476409
Edited by: velopilot

urin8
26-01-2007, 09:53 PM
had a crash today, clipped the tail on a 2nd story hand rail, then spun
into a post. hit the cement hard enough to shatter both the magnets in
the main motor, amazingly that was the only damage.

since i can't fly, i decided to try fit a larger tail motor.



i made a 2 mm ally plate that attaches to the original mount.

i'm trying a 180 motor from the dragon fly twin rotor job. ($22 for two, same size pinion)



https://www.ausrc.com/forum/members/images/urin8/DC7_Image1.jpg



https://www.ausrc.com/forum/members/images/urin8/2DC_Image2.jpg



https://www.ausrc.com/forum/members/images/urin8/AB6_Image3.jpg



https://www.ausrc.com/forum/members/images/urin8/37E_Image4.jpg



does it work ?

I dunno, i haven't got a main motor to fly it.

i did run it on the bench and it seems to have sh*t loads of power,
only problem i can foresee it the extra weight on the tail.

i would imagine the motor will last for ages.



got a new walkera canopy too, pulled all the stickers off so it is
plain white, is heaps easier to see when you are flying in dim light or
in front of a dark background



https://www.ausrc.com/forum/members/images/urin8/Image7.jpg

stevo1957
27-01-2007, 05:19 AM
Urin8,


Good idea with the tail motor, mate. If it's too heavy, then you'll just have to upgrade the main motor somehow to "rebalance"https://www.ausrc.com/forum/smileys/smiley2.gif.


The more I read about the available helis, the more decided I am on the Dragonfly 4. They seem to be a great starting off unit and spares are reasonably cheap. The improved 4#1 version I posted above seems to have resolved the tail motor and servo issues - so they say!


I was thinking about a 3D capable unit but all the Walkeras need more money spent converting them and besides, more chance for crash when things are upside down and back to front. So I'm back to the DF4. Getting close to making the purchase!https://www.ausrc.com/forum/smileys/smiley32.gif


Another online shop whose prices seem ok is www.airbornerc.com.au (http://www.airbornerc.com.au)


Cheers guys,


Steve

urin8
27-01-2007, 03:44 PM
Got a new main motor today, ended up with a team losi insane 370.
sure has heaps more punch, nearly put it through the roof.
tried an 8 tooth pinion on it and it runs pretty hot, so maybe it is a bit too low of turn for the heli,

the 180 motor on the tail works well, very solid tail even in the wind and heaps of power. makes pirouettes easy, (well easier)
i moved the battery mount out underneath the 4 in 1 which almost balances it.
it flies great even though it is still tail heavy.
only problem is i have lost about 2 mins flight time bringing it down to 5 mins or so.
I wouldn't think the 180 would use that much more power, maybe it is the new 370 or a bit of both.
i'll try it with a stock motor next week once my parts order arrives.
racking up a few $$$ on this thing now
--------------------
steve1957
the tail motor on the new 4#1 looks the same as the old one to me.
even if it was a stronger motor i recon it would still have those tiny little brushes which burn out so easily.

stevo1957
28-01-2007, 08:26 AM
Urin8,


Seems like your right about the tail motor, mate.


Perhaps they've done something different to the tail rotor setup to make it last longer.


I think I'm getting close to putting one on order.https://www.ausrc.com/forum/smileys/smiley32.gif


Cheers,


Steve

nitro-drifter
28-01-2007, 03:08 PM
Urin8 - grab yourself a lipo mate. A 1800 mah (8.4v) should cost around $40 - $50.


Is a lot heavier - and longer, so balance is easier to set up. I get about 15mins of decent flight out of it. Could ride it out to 20min, but less power is no fun.


Love the job you did on the motor. I am tempted to keep upgrading the NRII - but I thinkit is about time to get the 3DXL back out.

nitro-drifter
01-02-2007, 10:57 PM
My receiver / gyro went last night. Probably a combination of too many hard knocks (one good one, nose in flying that killed it) and my initial LIPO effort.


Around $50 - $60 for a new one. $128 for a walkera - with the buddy cable, flight sim (the link Stevo1957 posted a few pages back.) I opted for that - Mode II version, as i have just got my 3DXL changed to Mode II also.


Let me tell you - trying to swap Modes [was previously flying Mode III]and pick up where you left off is just not something for a beginner. I was at a stage where i could do a4 - 5mcircle in front of me - nose leading all the way, but now am stumped. It literally is starting again from scratch. I was thinking it would be a relatively easy change from M3 but definitely not the case for me.


Am putting in sometime on the flight simwith mode 2 to recover lost hours. Back to the start of the race for me.


Tip: The mode you learn onshould bethe mode you want tofly on. https://www.ausrc.com/forum/smileys/smiley5.gif

urin8
01-02-2007, 11:24 PM
few changes here.
I've added some new skids from a walkera 36 and one of them things on the tail.
the skids are a bit heavier, more weight seems to make it more stable but at the price of flight time.
lands much nicer on these.
had to move the canopy forward to fit the battery in the nose.

(click for full size)
https://www.ausrc.com/forum/members/images/urin8/5E8_Image2.jpg (http://members.optusnet.com.au/urin8/Image3.jpg)

I am also trying twin stock motors on the tail, seem good so far, not as powerful as the 180 but lighter.
i think it flys better now. i have also another small motor i will get around to trying some day.

only problem i have now is a glitch in the radio system, is damm annoying....
helicopters and radio problems do not go very well together

stevo1957
02-02-2007, 11:07 AM
Mission accomplished!https://www.ausrc.com/forum/smileys/smiley32.gif


I have ordered a Walkera Dragonfly 4#1 from www.rchobby.com.au (http://www.rchobby.com.au)and pick it up tonight.


Anyone know of a reasonably proced 7.4v 2 cell lipo? - I've told that this is the only type to run in this heli.


Also, I have a Platinum EX charger which does do Lipo's but it doesn't do the cell balancing bit - only 2 leads out. How important is cell balancing? I've researched a bit on it but must admit, my reading hasn't really dispelled my confusion about this topic.


Cheers,


Steve

urin8
02-02-2007, 11:17 AM
pick up some lipos up at rchobby while u r there,<a href="http://rchobby.com.au/product_info.php?cPath=25_35&amp;products_id=111" target="_blank">
http://rchobby.com.au/product_info.php?cPath=25_35&amp;products_id=111</a>
I have one and get about 12min out of it.
7.4v 800mAh 10C, if you can find em cheaper than that let me know.
he has a cheap balance charger too
http://rchobby.com.au/product_info.php?cPath=31&amp;products_id=311

nitro-drifter
02-02-2007, 11:25 AM
It is interesting waiting out the front of a guys apartment complex for him to run down the goods for you though!


I felt like i was involved in some type of underground St Leornards mafia RC process! However, i got the goods, which is what is the key.


But it is much more sturdy than the NRII - no machine issues to date.Edited by: nitro-drifter

stevo1957
02-02-2007, 11:32 AM
Yeh - I wanted to get there earlier but he said it was his house and he wouldn't be available until 5.30. He sounds genuine though and from experiences with him from you guys and people on other forums, I think he's o/k.


I used to buy heaps of new PC gear from guys running businesses out of apartments and front rooms on houses.


Council probably don'y know he's running a business, but good luck to him. That's probably why his prices are good.


I actually asked him about his lipos and he didn't offer the one you refer to back to me. Is it definately a 2 cell, 7.4 volt. If it is and at that price, I'd probably pick one up. Also, at that price, if I stuff up from not using a balance charger, I wouldn't be too worried. Need to keep some spare cash for all the repairs.https://www.ausrc.com/forum/smileys/smiley2.gifhttps://www.ausrc.com/forum/smileys/smiley36.gif


The more I read about these heli's the more I want to get into this side of the hobby.


Get ready for the questions to start flowing mate - Anyone who has been flying longer than me is deserved of asking questions to!


Cheers,


Steve

stevo1957
02-02-2007, 11:37 AM
Nitro-drifter, Urin8,


Sorry fellas - my post above is all over the place. Just realised I was responding to both your posts at the same time!


The flight sim software is shareware so he's doing a good service putting it on a disc.


I've decided to stick with mode 1 for the radio. I'm not using sticks for my trucks anymore, so when I learn mode 1 for the heli, all should be well.


Cheers,


Steve

nitro-drifter
02-02-2007, 08:43 PM
Yeh - I wanted to get there earlier but he said it was his house and he wouldn't be available until 5.30. He sounds genuine though and from experiences with him from you guys and people on other forums, I think he's o/k.





Stevo - I encountered no issues with the process - everything was no hassles. I will definitley order from there again.

stevo1957
02-02-2007, 09:26 PM
O/K guys - hers some questions.


For the price, quite impressed, however, I am having some problems and think that one of my servos is faulty.


I have a Mode 1 radio - throttle on the left.


If I get the motors spinning up and move the aileron stick to the left (ie right stick to the left) and the move the elevator stick down (ie left stick down) then I get this terrible clicking noise from the servo attached to the elevator stick (left stick). I'm assuming that this is not normal - It's almost as if the gears are bouncing but only hasppens when the aileron control is in place.


If I try to get slightly off the ground, it starts to bounce badly and creep backwards whilst turning itself. Still don't know about how to trim the thing, but researching hard.


Perhaps this is all related.


I have emailed Rchobby and expect he will send me another servo to try.


Any comments would be appreciated.


Having had my first taste of helis, I'm even more detrmined now to master the sim and get some flying hours up!. (Actulally, I should install the sim next.https://www.ausrc.com/forum/smileys/smiley2.gif)


Any comments appreciated.


Cheers,


Steve

nitro-drifter
02-02-2007, 09:47 PM
O/K guys - hers some questions.


I have a Mode 1 radio - throttle on the left.


If I get the motors spinning up and move the aileron stick to the left (ie right stick to the left) and the move the elevator stick down (ie left stick down) then I get this terrible clicking noise from the servo attached to the elevator stick (left stick). I'm assuming that this is not normal - It's almost as if the gears are bouncing but only hasppens when the aileron control is in place.





Stevo - the first thing i did out of the box when setting up was to take off the two servo horns - turn everything on (with your trims all neutral) and when the servo's are centred, ensure the swashplate is sitting 90 degrees to the ground.

Put the servo horns back on parrallel to the main rotors. If they arent centred - servo movement will be restricted one way.

Also - make sure your flybar paddles are aligned. Oblivion posted a good set up guide at the start of this thread.


I think a TX with throttle / rudderon the left , all cyclics on the rightis Mode 2, but your setup sounds a little different.


If your trims dont stop the slow spin - the gyro may needto be adjusted to counter the issue.


Enjoy it all. Great hobby to get into.Edited by: nitro-drifter

stevo1957
03-02-2007, 11:49 AM
Thanks Nitro-Drifter,


I swapped servos and the noise went away so it is definately a servo slipping/gear problem. Not worried too much - Rchobby will swap it over for me.


So I'm thinking this is why it is all over the place when I try and lift. Servo horns are centred, trims adjusted etc. Yet to balance paddles and blades but I will do that soon.


Another question - sometimes if I jump on the throttle a bit hard, the blades will fly around and lock thenselves under the flybar paddles - does this mean my blades are too loose?


Anyway, while I wait for the new servo, I'll install the sim and get some practice in.


Great little heli to work on - servos just click in and out from mainframe.


By the way mate - where in Sydney are you. I'm at Baulkham Hills. Perhaps we could meet up one day and compare notes on the helis and get the cars and trucks out. Do you ever get to Bass Hill?


Cheers,


Steve

Oblivion
03-02-2007, 11:51 AM
pinch your rotors up, its all covered in teh first post. they gotta be pinched up but not too tight. they shouldnt move without any resistance either.

stevo1957
03-02-2007, 12:01 PM
Thanks Bliv,


Mate - I'm gioing to have fun with this little thing.


Where you got your throttle trim set. Before I played with it yesterday, I had to give 1/2 stick before the blades would turn. Now it's only a tiny bit of stick to power up the motors.


It is a mode 1 radio BTW lads -


https://www.ausrc.com/forum/members/images/stevo1957/Walkera_4_channel.jpg


BTW - These things can be dangerous. Nearly sliced my leg last night. Was sitting next to the heli and bumped the throttle. Bingo - missed by that much!


Cheers,


Steve

stevo1957
03-02-2007, 12:09 PM
Sorry Nitro-Drifter - just realised I don't know my left from my right!https://www.ausrc.com/forum/smileys/smiley9.gifThrottle is on the right!......................so that's why Mode 1 didn't sound quite right to you.


Cheers,


Steve

stevo1957
03-02-2007, 02:33 PM
Guys,


Another question.


Should the push rods from both servos to the swashplate be the same length?


Also, anyone know where you can pick up an exploded view or assembly instruction sheet for these?


Cheers,


Steve

stevo1957
03-02-2007, 06:25 PM
Guys,


Have just done the radio mod - Throttle and rudder now on right stick.


Have taken out sus servo and yep - clicks real bad - bouncing or broken tooth. Rchobby will replace it during the week.


Bliv - what are your FMS settings to match up with the stick mods?


Cheers,


Steve

Oblivion
03-02-2007, 07:30 PM
i thikn theres an image back a page for it, but i took it to my mates place and his used the 1-4 instead of 5-8 like i had..

nitro-drifter
03-02-2007, 08:04 PM
Stevo - the most important thing is that your swashplate sits horizontal to the ground. If everything is centred - the pushrods should be the same - but i would focus more on just ensuring the swashplate is 90 degrees.


Definitely keen for a catch up - i live in darling harbour, but can travel. On-road or airbourne is the best bash option for me.


I have gone through two servos on my NRII. It seems to take a bashing - then the one time you hit the wrong way - those little servos just go.


Changing all the cyclics over to one side definitely made life easier. However - i have sussed out the club scene here - and most fly a mode 2 - so relearning in mode2 to help out with lessons when i finally get a Raptor 50 (one day!).

urin8
03-02-2007, 08:52 PM
I have gone through two servos on my NRII. It seems to take a bashing - then the one time you hit the wrong way - those little servos just go.


me too both the venom servos are long dead, they look fine, just stopped working.
talking about hitting the wrong way, i finally broke the chassis today. clipped some foliage on a tree, thanks to a gust of wind (well thats my excuse) and went into the ground tail first.
http://video.google.com.au/videoplay?docid=5774349039715019807
i don't think it had anything to do with the high speed nose dive i did 15 mins before, which pretty much destroyed the canopy. (the new skids are really tuff)

any of you guys flying around outside ?
i have great ability flying really far away and no ability flying backhttps://www.ausrc.com/forum/smileys/smiley5.gif
talk about crash scene investigations looking for the bits that fell off.
then walking back trying to find the crash site to find the other bit i left behind.

good luck with the heli stevo. patients is the key. it can be very frustrating at times but slow and steady wins the race.


Edited by: urin8

stevo1957
07-02-2007, 05:04 AM
Just a bit of an update for you guys.


I swapped the faulty servo over last week and readjusted the servo linkages. They were a long way out staright out of the box but I have them reasonably right now, with a small adjustment to the radio trims.


Also, I decided to go to Mode 2 radio - It's more intuitive for me to have throttle on the left as when I started out in RC cars with the stick radios, throttle was left stick and steering was right. So RChobby swapped radios for me - said he do do a conversion in 10 minutes but when I arrived, he had a new mode 2 to swap straight over. I get home and start playing and find the right stick is "dicky" in that it won't always return to centre and movement felt very strange. So I check housing screws tomake sure things aren't too tight etc, but no joy.


So it was back to RCHobby last night to swap radios - I now have a good one!


Rossi at RCHobbies has been great to deal with. It is strange conducting business in the foyer of the high rise where he lives but he has been great about swapping things around and keeps saying "As long as you're happy" etc. I can highly recommend him.


Yep - I've had a few hiccups so far, but at $128 for the base unit, I know I'm not buying a Rolls Royce of choppers.


So I trimmed up last night - still to check balance of fly bar, rotors and check evrything already mentioned in this post form other's experiences. Power up and she wants to lift and starts slipping and swaying all over the place. Back to the computer and the SIM - which I reckon is harder to fly that the real thing.


So guys, what are the hints to actually get a hover happening and how do I stop the thing from wanting to turn around as you give it some lift. Any hints for the SIM also appreciated.https://www.ausrc.com/forum/smileys/smiley2.gif


All in all, great fun and I feel, is going to be very addictive.


I'll probably move to a LIPO setup. Given that I purchased a new Platinum EX charger not that long ago, I friend who is into electronics is going to build me a 2 cell LIPO balancer. We've just found out we can but the 2S1P connectors on Ebay.


Cheers,


Steve

nitro-drifter
07-02-2007, 06:07 AM
Stevo - the hover is the first elusive milestone with Heli's. To get it sitting absolutely still in the air - you need about 3 inputs per second from the tx.


The best description i have heard to date - is:


"Flying helis, is like running around your backyard with a flat glass plate, balancing a marble on top".


So - imagine the plate on the ground with a marble sitting centre. As soon as you go to pick it up - the marble starts moving, and you have to move the plate to compensate - this is even before you get it more than 5cm off the ground.


Same deal with the heli. I found the best thing was to get the idle up so the heli was light on its' feet - then 'pop' the throttle up about 1/4. As the heli lifts off, immediately drop the throttle a little - and go into 'balance the marble' crane technique, daniel-san.


I went through a main shaft, a tail motor, 2 flybars and a 2 sets of skids before i could get it consistently in the air. Also - the biggest killer is to get rid of the habit of going from full lock to full lock on the sticks. Literally move them about 1mm - 2mm and focus on keeping the tail pointing towards you.


For the flight sim, forget anything more than 3m infront of you. Try and keep the heli within that radius - and practice keeping it still - moving left - still - moving right - land. Start again.


They are the only real tips i can offer mate - as i am a complete noob at flying still.


My walkera is being a little biatch. Does your gyro screw do anything? Mine doesn't, it just spins on itself- so the only way i can counter-balance the heli is via the rudder trims - which means i still have to keep the rudder stick almost full lock to keep it straight, with trim bias all the way one side.


Back to see our friend - and hopefully find some answers.Edited by: nitro-drifter

Oblivion
07-02-2007, 07:38 AM
still to check balance of fly bar, rotors and check evrything already mentioned in this post form other's experiences. Power up and she wants to lift and starts slipping and swaying all over the place.


it really should be the first thing you do, because otherwise your fighting a poorly setup heli.


kinda like a car with camber/toe etc all outta whack, you will never apply power and have it drive straight until those things are sorted out.


its a pain in the arse to tweak all the settings, but its something you will get used to checking after every bad stack otherwise you will continue to fight the heli instead of work with it.

stevo1957
07-02-2007, 01:49 PM
Thanks for the info guys - I'm going to have some fun time on the SIM tonight.https://www.ausrc.com/forum/smileys/smiley2.gif


Don't sell your experience short, Nitro-Drifter. Anyone who has been flying longer than me is experienced in my book!https://www.ausrc.com/forum/smileys/smiley2.gif


Don't know about my gyro screw - not game to touch it! But when exactly should the tail rotor start to spin?


Also, where do you guys run your throttle trim. If I have mine way down, I need almost 1/3 stick to get the rotor turning. If I have it centre, I need only a small amount of stick to get going.


Bliv - will check out the balance issues and adjustments shortly. Dear wifey is starting to think I spend too much time with my new bird (pardon the pun!) already so I have to sneak some time with it when I can!


Cheers guys - I'll see if I can outdo your damage list - Give me time!https://www.ausrc.com/forum/smileys/smiley2.gif


Steve

jjjrules
07-02-2007, 04:08 PM
[QUOTE=stevo1957]


Thanks for the info guys - I'm going to have some fun time on the SIM tonight.https://www.ausrc.com/forum/smileys/smiley2.gif


Is that a bit like doing it with a blow up doll stevo?


"Lookin good Vern!"

stevo1957
07-02-2007, 04:53 PM
Is that a bit like doing it with a blow up doll stevo?


Don't know mate - is it?https://www.ausrc.com/forum/smileys/smiley2.gif


Cheers,


Steve

jjjrules
07-02-2007, 04:58 PM
I dunno - I've never used a heli sim https://www.ausrc.com/forum/smileys/smiley2.gif

Oblivion
07-02-2007, 06:14 PM
my trims are set almost perfectly centre. if i move the stick forward more than about 2 notches it starts to spin slowly.


gyro setting - dont touch it unless you find the heli's tail circles more than the trims can counteract.


as the pack goes flat you will start to add more trim to the tail, but you shouldnt have a tail that your always fighting either.


light corrections are normal, but if your constantly leaning the stick its a prob

stevo1957
07-02-2007, 07:15 PM
Guys,


Just doing some more reading and found this in the "read" that Urin8 recommended earlier in this thread.


In case you didn't see it................


http://media.hobbypeople.net/manual/163130.pdf


Shame that Venom and Walkera didn't put one of these manuals together, but its the same heli, so who cares.


Cheers,


Steve

stevo1957
08-02-2007, 06:56 AM
Guys,


My flybar paddles are definately not aligned. Both are at a slight angle off horizontal but the 2 angles are different.


My research tells me that they should be horizontal but some reading says to put a small angle on them (about 5 degrees).


This probably explains the bouncing at throttle up so I will rectify tonight.


Are you guys running yours with the paddles horizontal or angled?


Cheers,


Steve

nitro-drifter
08-02-2007, 08:04 AM
Stevo - after you have centred everything - set the paddles exactly flat. Then - when you lift off, you can adjust your elevator trims (lean fwd/back) to suit. Adjusting that trim - moves the flybar paddles back / fwd pending which way you trim.

urin8
08-02-2007, 08:13 AM
Are you guys running yours with the paddles horizontal or angled?

I have mine horizontal.
it will take a while to get it lifting off, it is one of those things you just have to keep at. (can be frustrating at times)
it's not a bad idea to try and hop it forward about a foot or so, this will help you learn the controls and keep the crashes to a minimum.

here is a link to the video that comes with the twister bell, ignore the set up tips but watch the flying tips. might help you get started.
http://www.jperkinsdistribution.co.uk/downloads/6600040a.wmv (http://www.jperkinsdistributi&#111;n.co.uk/downloads/6600040a.wmv)

Oblivion
08-02-2007, 08:14 AM
thats how i have mine too, they are both as flat as possible when viewed from the side..

stevo1957
08-02-2007, 08:41 AM
Thanks for the input guys,


I must be getting closer to a short hover.......hopefully.


Another quick question please. How do I know if I need to adjust the gyro, or do I manage the tail rotor with the trim?


Cheers,


SteveEdited by: stevo1957

urin8
08-02-2007, 09:09 AM
yep, just use the trims,
like nitro drifter, i can turn my gyro adjustment all day and it make no difference.

nitro-drifter
08-02-2007, 11:01 AM
I just got off the phone to RC Hobby.


Taking in the heli to replace / fix gyro issue.


My NRII gyro adjustment was working fine. For some reason the Walkera did not. I don't know much about gyro's - but maybe there is a certain point where you adjust the sensitivity when the screw unlocks from the thread - and cannot be put back in??


Will let you know how i fare. However - he did say, the gyro should be adjustable, and my situation "did not sound right".


Stevo - in theory, you should have your rudder trims centred - and the heli should be able to hover, without rotating one way or the other - too much. I had my NRII where i could take off just using the throttle only. Although - now it is a spare part beast.... https://www.ausrc.com/forum/smileys/smiley19.gif

stevo1957
08-02-2007, 11:29 AM
Thanks for the update on your gyro issue.


What I'll do is take note of where my screw is set and move it 1/4 turn left and then right. This should quicken or delay when the tail rotor motor cuts in, right?


If I take note of where the throttle stick is when the change occurs, I should know if it is working. By noting the starting position etc I can return things to normal when my checking is finished.


That's the theory - should prove if I have a gyro that is working as it should.


Cheers,


Steve

nitro-drifter
08-02-2007, 11:50 AM
I think the gyro impacts more how much the tail rotor counters the spin of the main blades, as opposed to the timing of the motor kick in...


Although - i have been wrong many times in the past!!

stevo1957
08-02-2007, 12:09 PM
Thanks for that Nitro-Drifter,


So what can I expect to happen when the gyro is adjusted either way?


Let me know when you've been to see Rossi at RCHobby. Perhaps you can ask him how to prove if the gyro is functioning.


Cheers,


Steve

nitro-drifter
08-02-2007, 12:14 PM
If you turn the screw anti clockwise, it increases the sensitivity - which means, the tail rotor should engage at a higher speed at lower throttle levels. ie - the tail motor spins harder - which counters the rotation of the entire heli - which the main blades will make spin to the left (nose left).


So - if your trims are centred, and the heli rotates to the [nose]left - it means the gyro sensitivity is too light - so, anti clockwise a turn or so should remove the issue.


That is theory, mind you! Based on my very limited understanding.....

stevo1957
08-02-2007, 12:20 PM
Thanks for that.


So when are you going to see RCHobby?


Cheers,


Steve

nitro-drifter
08-02-2007, 12:23 PM
Tonight mate.


See if i can leave a little early from work - maybe 5.30 - 6.00. Will be there by 6.30pm.

stevo1957
08-02-2007, 01:17 PM
Yeh - It's a bit of a trip for me.


Work at Parramatta - over to St Leonards - home to Baulkham Hills.


It's also strange stting on the lounge in the foyer doing business with him. He's also run out to deliver parts to people in cars outside.


But hey - 100% credit to him. He provides great service and responds real quick to email enquiries. His prices are the best compared to other online vendors.


Cheers,


Steve

urin8
09-02-2007, 12:45 PM
well i have been pretty happy with the way i've been flying around in the back yard, so i go and get the missus to take a video so i can show u guys.
must be the extra pressure from the camera cause it turned into a crash-athon
http://video.google.com.au/videoplay?docid=-8378768551124718657

broke the new chassis i got on tuesdayhttps://www.ausrc.com/forum/smileys/smiley18.gif
along with the flybar and control tray, didn't do the canopy much good either.....

stevo1957
09-02-2007, 12:56 PM
Mate,


Great video.


You are flying real well - If you edit out the crashes, you'll look like a seasoned professional!https://www.ausrc.com/forum/smileys/smiley2.gif


Who put those chairs in the way of the last flight anyway?https://www.ausrc.com/forum/smileys/smiley36.gif


Well done,


Cheers,


Steve

urin8
09-02-2007, 01:08 PM
OK here is a better one with out the crashes.
http://video.google.com.au/videoplay?docid=-101627742624558319

after i broke the flybar and didn't have a spare, i used two of the legs from the skids.
one each side, is a little shorter in length than the flybar would be but i am sure it is easier to fly.
might be worth a try if you have a couple of spare legs or you could cut down a flybar if you have one.

stevo1957
09-02-2007, 05:53 PM
Got too impatient to wait my kids to get off one of the computers so I could have a go at the sim, so I just had another try in the yard before it got dark.


These little things have got attitude!


Still haven't got it off the ground, but I can see how people get so addicted to them.


It makes the professionals on"Dancing with the Stars" look like kindergarten kids, the way it pranced around all over the hard!


Cheers,


Steve

stevo1957
09-02-2007, 08:27 PM
OK guys - just noticed all 3 of you online (Oblivion, Urin8 and Nitro-Drifter).


WhenI start things up, sometimes the tail motor spins straight away. Othertimes, the main motor comes in first and then a slight delay until the tail kicks in.


No pattern to when it does this.


Sound normal to you guys? Experiencing similar with your helis?


Cheers,


Steve

Oblivion
09-02-2007, 08:43 PM
dont worry about when the tail or main kicks in and out.


whats important is that as you apply more power you do not lose control of the tail.


eg: if as you power up more and more you start to find the heli doing a deathspin worse and worse, then the gyro needs adjusting one way or the other.


but if you can power up and down (eg from landing into hover thenincreased thr into head height or above hover) and the tail only needs minor corrections then its all good and nothing to be concerned about.

urin8
09-02-2007, 08:43 PM
main rotor spin up and tail kicks in as the rpm increases, haven't taken much notice of it before.
i don't think it would matter as long as it works OK in the air.

stevo1957
09-02-2007, 08:52 PM
Thanks fellas. Gotta get this baby in the air.


So if I can't control spin when I try and do a hover, I start fiddling with the gyro.


Also checked out my servo operation tonight. Derrhttps://www.ausrc.com/forum/smileys/smiley9.gif....had the connectors in the wrong RX slots. Might fly better now, eh!


Don't know if I'm patient enough to wait till I've mastered the sim, though.


Might be meeting up with Nitro-Drifter tomorrow to "compare notes."


Cheers,


SteveEdited by: stevo1957

urin8
09-02-2007, 09:34 PM
Also checked out my servo operation tonight. Derrhttps://www.ausrc.com/forum/smileys/smiley9.gif....had the connectors in the wrong RX slots. Might fly better now, eh!

had a good laugh at that onehttps://www.ausrc.com/forum/smileys/smiley36.gif

nitro-drifter
09-02-2007, 09:47 PM
I went out to rchobby because of the gyro issue.


Turned out to be a faultytail motor - and he just replaced the entire heli. That just ensured some repeat business!


Flies perfect now - apparently, the walkera dragonfly's don't have an adjustable gyro - where the NRII does. I wondered why it was in the NRII manual and not in the fragonfly!


Managed to get it all balanced with the trims only.


Flying all weekend!

stevo1957
10-02-2007, 04:42 AM
Good news mate,


It would probably cost Rossi more in terms of his time to replace the tail motor than to replace the entire unit.


I know that the Walkera's have a m ixed rerputation about quality, but I still reckon at $130 for a complete setup, that they are a verycheap entry point to the hobby.


So what do you reckon - Venoms NRII's are way ahead in terms of quality orparts are out of the same factory and price is the only differential?


Cheers,


Steve

nitro-drifter
10-02-2007, 07:47 AM
The venom definitely had more go. The engine in the walkera is not has good, and the venom receiver had the gyro adjusty where this one didn't.


Tail motor is better in the walkera - and the new rotation assemby setup with the flybar setup @ the same level of the main rotors makes it very smooth.


It is heaps quieter thanthe venom. In a perfect world - i would have the venom set up, with the walkera tail motor, rotation assemby setup (NRII - you can buy the walkera swashplate / r assembly from rchobby.com.au - fits straight on).


Once this motor goes, i will throw on the NRII engine (my spare parts beast) and see how it goes on that setup.


The Walkera winner, is the fact the tx and buddy cable can be used on your pc.

urin8
10-02-2007, 10:23 AM
i have read that the rods that come with the training legs are the same material/size as the the fly bar.
can anyone verify this ?