: More toubles

21-05-2006, 10:29 AM
ok, pleasee help me anyone if you can.

Im trying to get my MT2 going, but theres a number of problems;
1. the pull started seems really tight, only when the glow plug is removed, it seems loose again.
2. when i had the engine going for a good 5 seconds the revs where pretty high for idle and the wheels where moving pretty fast even though the carb is only opened about 2-3mm??

21-05-2006, 10:32 AM
I could be wrong but the carby should only be open about 1mm for idle........

Just start it off the ground and turn the idle down til the wheels stop moving.

Edited by: jastel

21-05-2006, 10:33 AM
use the idle screw to lower the idle ..

Check that the pin that connects the servo to the carbie is not to long .. this will cause the car to idle too high and wont let the car idle correctly..

The pull starter is good tight .. To make it easier unscrew the glow plug 1/2 or a full turn (id suggest half first..) and start her .. Instantly on starting screw the plug back in if you dont it will blow off within about 30 seconds .. your safe up to about 10 seconds ..

hope that helps!

21-05-2006, 10:36 AM
when you say idle screw is that the larger one which controls air/fuel mixture or is that the smaller black screw, because my manual says not to change the black screw during run in?

21-05-2006, 10:44 AM
Got a pic?

21-05-2006, 10:46 AM
The needles are not alwayd where they are supposed to me when you but RTR.
it always pays to check the needles before starting.

If you are using the RB heat cycle breakin method don't worry about what the manual.

Also check that your servo is returning all the way. apply the brakes to see if the throttle closes more. disconnect the throttle linkage and see if the carb closes further.

Gap should be around 1 -1.5mm don't worry about it to much during breakin as you will need to adjust it to get it running right.

21-05-2006, 10:49 AM
The idle screw will be the one that comes right off the middle of the carby. To make sure you're screwing the correct one, remove the air filter so you can see the inlet valve. When you adjust the screw the valve should move...obviously. It should only be about 1 - 1.5mm open.

It may say don't adjust it, but if the car refuses to idle, then it needs to be adjusted!

21-05-2006, 11:04 AM
With all the adjustment screws the rule generally is that the screws will be flat head screws .. so if they are allen key screws or phillips head screws do not touch them.. they will ajust other things on the engine which you dont want to mess with!

21-05-2006, 02:55 PM
pullstarts are ALWAYS tight on break in. heat up the engine to about
80-90C with a hair dryer, focusing the heat on the block of the engine
and directly down onto the glow plug. if you dont havea temp gun, doing
this for about 10 minutes usually does the trick. loosening the glow
plug will help too, but remember to tighten it up before you go driving
around, as dirt can get inside or the plug can fall out.

the idle screw is the screw that comes out of the middle of the carby
on a slight angle. its adjusted with a flat head screw driver. do not
touch any screws with hex sockets, as they are not used for tuning. you
should have a 1mm gap between the side of the carby and the edge of the

apply the brakes and watch your carb slide. if the slider/barrel closes
further when the brakes are applied, you need to disconnect the
throttle linkage from the engine and make it longer, so that when the
brakes are applied, the carby does not close further. This will affect
your idle and your tuninig, so its important.

check all your needles are set as per the factory settings. the book
says they come set from the factory, but HPI are notorious for NOT
having them set correctly from the factory. to do this you just screw
in the High speed needle (the one in the brass tubing, where the fuel
line is) and Low speed needle (the one in the side of the carb where
the throttle arm attaches) until they JUST bottom out and get a little
tight. DO NOT</span> keep tightening
them as you will ruin the needle. factory settings are usually 3-4 full
turns out from fully closed, or in some cases 'flush settings' meaning
the top of the screw is flush with the housing it sits in. consult your
engine manual for the correct settings as each engine is different.

Hope that helps out.

21-05-2006, 06:47 PM
Thanks for the comments everyone, i just spent all day working on it, and im over RC cars! nar, but seriously im having alot of trouble which im hoping to palm off to my LHS for a hansome sum of money...


Like Twizm suggested, when i brake the carb is pulled shut.. therefore turning the engine off, although i eventually worked out by adjusting screw 'B' i was able to limit the distance that the carb could be pushed back. I still havent over come this issue as now i have little brake responce.

Another major problem is the fact that the car WILL NOT idle correctly, it will maintain a nice rpm level, although to much causing the wheels to move at a pretty decent pace. Im not sure how to correct this, as i have already fiddled with the idle screw (b) and anything different to what i have causes the engine to stop / not start.

And im not sure if its the fuel im using, but im getting tones of oil building up and splutering happening.. i tipped the exaust and about 20-30ml of liquid sh*t!

The day ended with a broken pull starter, a unbroken-in engine (1/2 a tank left), an un happy me and some photography! not to mention i missed supernats https://www.ausrc.com/forum/smileys/smiley7.gif





My black to grey fade is a bit hard to spot, but thats due to the flash! thanks guys

21-05-2006, 06:53 PM
The amount of oil you have seems normal to me.... thats supposed to be like that for break-in ie really rich.

What does the manual say for break-in procedure?

21-05-2006, 06:56 PM
It does mention to expect a very rich setting, but even after a few air / fuel needle adjustments i cant get a really nice setting... Hopefully some on can get it going nicely for me, im gonna make some calls tommorrow.

The oil build up is partly responsible for this starter issue i think? even though its sealed there was a fare bit of sh*t in there!

Edited by: dburnz.88

21-05-2006, 08:20 PM
this all sounds really familiar to me. I had lots of trouble breaking in my first MT2. Mix of noobness and impatience. Lots of trouble starting so started playing with all the different screws and throwing things right out.

I would say return everything to factory settings and start again (once you get the pull start). The irregular idle was normal, as is the build up of oil.

Not sure what the proper procedure is. But what I did was play with the idle when it started too rev off (with lsn and hsn at factory settings). I found it only really happened at the factory settings towards the end of a tank (think it was leaning out with empty tank). And if it did do a runaway, I just braked a bit. If it kept revving high, I just shut it down and started her up again.

Only other thing you might want to do (more experienced guys correct me if this is wrong) is adjust the lsn slightly. Richen it up like 1/10 of a turn or so to slow it down if it keeps revving off. But be very careful with this as engine is very sensitive to lsn changes.

Also keep an eye on temperatures and make sure it doesn;t get too hot

It took me a couple of weekends to break in the original motor of the mt2. Impatience, not knowing what to do, and playing with too many screws (which meant i was constantly chasing problems). The new replacement motor took about two hours all up (this time much more patient, knew what too expect and not to adjust too many things at once).

Also during breakin you shouldn't be running it too fast, so just leave the brakes till afterwards (as long as you can kind of stop). I found that RTR instructions on doing the brakes pretty good. Its pretty much adjust the idle (which I think is the minimum throttle closure) and just "brake" after eachidle screw adjustment tomake sure that the throttle really goes back into the idle position. Then adjust the brake linkage so that you have just a bit of play before it engages.

21-05-2006, 08:21 PM
where abouts in sydney are you? im sure someone will be able to help ya.

21-05-2006, 08:23 PM
st clair penrith... ill probally go for a hobby shop, im not extremely keen on strangers, im hoping to give the shop my car for a few days and just say to them, MAKE IT WORK... i dont have alot of time / patience for RC atm! i do enjoy it, just to frustrating and very distracting from school work! (Just hsc stuff.. nothing important!!)

21-05-2006, 08:47 PM
Go to the next bash when it is on in Sydney.

everyone in RC i have ever come across are friendly and helpfull.

They not only will help you with the setup of your MT2 they will likely do a better job than your LHS and it won't cost you anything besides making new friends.

21-05-2006, 08:50 PM
Yeah, im hoping to do so, i get my P's next wednesday (HOPING TO GOD ANYWAY!) and ill nick me mums car and come out, the lovely gold camry decorated with teddies! ill try and keep my self out of the LHS's in the mean while

21-05-2006, 08:52 PM
Stay away from Twizm though.... he's not friendly at all, smells funny,
is a bit of a t**ser and I'm pretty sure he's one of those homosexual

21-05-2006, 08:54 PM
Mate if you make your way out my way id help you no probs..

however if you wanna hang around your area you got plently of people to help you out ..

Id think your problem is the throttle linkage to ur carbie from the servo ..

More importantly check the setting on your remote .. Does the car idle nicely with the remote off (hold onto it incase it picks up a frequency n launches off)

when you turn the remote on does it start moving away ... the test wont work with the already set fail safe btw..

I dont know how you broke your pull starter but I guess it can be hard at first..

like I said ill help ya but depends if you wanna head out my way (i.e city)

21-05-2006, 09:00 PM
cdclone is in penrith i think, he will help you out

21-05-2006, 09:00 PM
yeah, i know the problems i just cant see how to fix them, and we fixed the pull starter ourselves, i dont know how, but its good as new. Ive tweeked some settings on the remote adjusting the end point (the expensive futaba 2pl was worth it!).

The idle is good steady rpm, its just to much, if i reduce it anymore it doesnt stay on or if the slightest movement occurs on brake it turns off.. kinda tricky situation? ill wait it out until i can get out with you guys!

21-05-2006, 09:08 PM
does he own a MT2? by the way, thanks koinonas for the comment its good to hear from some one who knows almost exactly what your experiencing! how did you over come the oil issue, or is that simply due to the rich mixture.. my fuel has 18% nitro and 15% nitro.. is the oil level a bit high?

21-05-2006, 11:01 PM
When you break the motor in at the factory settings, you're actually running really rich. This keeps the engine all lubricated as it wears the piston and sleeve in without too much damage. So you'll get a lot of unburnt oil in the exhaust. After you've broken it in, you'll start gradually leaning it out to get more performance and so the oil problem will dissappear.

With you're idle/brake/stall issue, I'd check your carbie again. Check that none of the servo linkages are loose. Also make sure that the throttle never closes any more than about 1mm. If it does, you're idle is too low and you're blocking off all the air when you brake.

Also don't try to set the idle or braking points by playing with the trims on the radio. Use the screws and linkages and you can get into all sorts of trouble if you rely on radio adjustments too much.

22-05-2006, 03:39 PM
Thanks for the tips, ill clear all my remote settings and redo the engine to factory settings, start fresh. Ill have to find a good idle position without any radio gear and then start fresh from there!