: Hi guys need some advice im a newb



razE
27-10-2012, 12:17 PM
I was looking at buying hsp rc car but I saw a post from Stoogey on a whirlpool forum who seemed very knowledgeable and it made me research some more and I ended up buying a Thunder Tiger MT-4 G3 and I will receive it later on next week. I really know nothing about the hobby but I am mechanically minded and could use some good general advice. On Saturday I was thinking I would go and buy batteries and a charger from a local hobby shop here in Qld. I see everyone buys lipo batteries but I believe I can choose from 2s,4s,5s,6s lipos? Should I buy online or from a hobby shop? I like the speed increase I see from the 5's and 6's but I am worried about wrecking any gears inside because of the sharper acceleration and am thinking maybe a 4s would be a good choice as it is pretty quick and would make things probably last a little longer. I see there is a chassis upgrade to avoid bending, is this just a part you can buy? Any upgrades that are essential to have? Does an electric motor need to be run in? I only plan to take it pretty easy to start with and have no desire currently to do big jumps or anything like that. Anyway I am here for advice and sorry for all the questions but I would trust enthusiasts advice over a salespersons anyday! Thanks to Stoogey for being straight up in the post on whirlpool as it says he is a member here (and why I signed up here) and anyone else who helps me out!

Thanks,
Matt.

RoBB
27-10-2012, 02:10 PM
Spot on with the right car mate

Could be handy to go speak to a hobby shop and learn what to do and how to charge them, a lot of us members buy from hobbyking, they have a awesome range of batteries and chargers to

Your brushless motor will not need to be worn in

With the mt4 g3, it's easy and cheap to make your own brace, also I would recommend Loctite the chassis screws

It's a good point to start out on a 4cell battery, if u end up wanting more speed down the track u can change the pinion on the motor or go up some volts to 5cell

Have a look on a forum called wondertiger, lots of info to be read there

BIG-block
27-10-2012, 02:34 PM
Robb is spot on with wondertiger forum. Its totally dedicated to the MT4/ST-1/EB4. They are all in the same family of cars and use many common parts. If the answers you seek aren't there then you are not likely to find them anywhere. LOL.

Ausrc is a great forum too and lots of worthy info on here as well so have a look around both forums.

I have a ST-1 which started life out as MT4 but I converted in into a hybrid monster truggy. Not a monster truck, not a truggy but a ****load of fun. LOL. The amount of punishment I dished out to the poor truck last weekend was insane. Even smashed a lipo in it and caused it to erupt in smoke but a fresh lipo and I was back at it.

I think you should stick to 4S lipo as a beginer. 4S in this truck is comparable to the wildest nitro engine and then some so I think you will be fine. Maybe later you might want to step up to 5S but I would advise you to wait. 6S is just crazy and almost unusable amount of power. Good for speed runs on flat surface but even that can sometimes result in a 50m cartwheel that could break things.

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razE
28-10-2012, 11:35 AM
Thank you guys for your responses. I am checking out hobby king and they have a great range. I also have bookmarked wondertiger forum. After watching a lot of videos and the advice given here I am set on a 4s lipo battery. I will get some loctite and loctite down chassis screws as suggested as well as go over all screw to make sure they are tight. I am now doing a fair amount of research on batteries and chargers. How many batteries do I need to run this bad boy? I want to have enough so I can continuously play for an hour or so even if I have to charge while driving. Would you guys recommend Turnigy? They seem like they are really good and reviews seem very positive. I think Turnigy batteries would also be good as I have yet to read anything bad but what do you guys recommend? I have no real world experience with them so I turn to you! I will order from hobbyking so ill post links below. Thanks again guys appreciate it!

Chargers (do they hook up to car batteries only or can you plug into 240v?) Will spend what I need too to get something good.
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__27830__Turnigy_Trailblazer_1_8_4WD_Brushless_Monster_Truck_RTR_AUS_Warehouse_.html

Batteries
Cant link because you have to select by brand :(

Thanks,
Matt.

towie964
28-10-2012, 12:19 PM
The EB4 G3 only has an 80Amp ESC and is limited to 4cell Lipo, running higher voltage packs will do damage to the ESC. There is an upgraded ESC from Thunder Tiger, the 150 Amp that will allow you to run the 5 and 6 cell batteries.

razE
28-10-2012, 02:24 PM
Ok thanks towie. I was only planning on running a 4s lipo. 4s = 4 cell? And I see everyone talking about ESC, what is an ESC? What do you recommend for batteries and charger for this MT-4 G3. Going to buy from hobbyking and I provided a link above to chargers. Thanks.

RoBB
29-10-2012, 08:34 AM
Yes 4s = 4 cell, In regards to the charger I would get a decent one and be done with it, those PowerPoint chargers can be painfully slow to charge a bigger battery, I would reccomend a icharger or power lab charger, I charger are at hobbyking and u will also need a power supply, I have found hobbyking chargers to be hit n miss, some one might be able to link u to some good gear, hard to do on my phone

Battery, look at the turnigy 4cell 40c lipo

A esc is a electronic speed controller

Are u any good at soldering?

towie964
29-10-2012, 10:09 AM
Sorry razE. I mistakenly thought you had an EB4 G3, but you have the MT4 G3, which has the larger ESC (Electronic Speed Control) which is 150Amp and will take up to 6 cell.

That will teach me to skim over some of the details.

Chargers can be annoying, and while I know it is cheaper to buy from overseas, being as hit and miss as they can be is not always a money saver. Apart from the majority needing a seperate Power Supply to run them, if they fail you have to spend considerable money to get you warranty sorted out.
I would suggest you go locally for your charger, and have the warranty aspect covered.

Batteries, your ESC is rated at 150Amp, so when looking at batteries, you need to make sure they are capable of delivering at least that as a minimum, but would suggest slightly larger than that.

razE
29-10-2012, 04:47 PM
Sweet thanks guys. Ill pick up an icharger as suggested. Towie I don't understand where I see what amperage the batteries are. I see 1800mah 4s 20c lipo pack http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__9761__Turnigy_1800mAh_4S_20C_Lipo_Pack.html .

What does 1800mah mean? What does 20c mean? Total noob here.

How many batteries do I need to power this bad boy?

razE
30-10-2012, 06:34 AM
Do you mean 15 amp towie? 1500 mah = 15 amp? Would this be a good battery http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__9458__Turnigy_1800mAh_4S_30C_Lipo_Pack.html ? How many do I need?

Thanks.

RoBB
30-10-2012, 07:18 AM
u want to get an hour out of these batteries? i would suggest 2 maybe 3 batteries

mah = mill amp hours, the lower the mah the lower the run time, a 1800mah battery would last u about 5-10mins maybe, a 5000mah battery would last u 20-25mins depending on how hard u drive it

the 20 c rating is the discharge rate

have a read of that, will help u out a bit
http://www.rchelicopterfun.com/rc-lipo-batteries.html

when towie says that u want the battery to be at least 150amp, there is a simple way to work it out, ill use that battery u linked as an example

(1800mAH 20C Lipo Battery): 1.8AH X 20C = 36Amps Max Constant

that battery is no where near enough, as a result it would struggle to put out the required amps for a 1/8 brushless system and could puff


http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__10307__Turnigy_5000mAh_4S_40C_Lipo_Pack.html
thats the battery i would reccommend, its also at the aus warehouse, but if your buying a charger at the same time, buy it all from overseas.

(5000mAH 40C Lipo Battery): 5AH X 40C = 200Amps Max Constant

better to go more and be safe that way the battery will not be struggling

RatsacK
30-10-2012, 08:32 AM
that battery is no where near enough, as a result it would struggle to put out the required amps for a 1/8 brushless system and could puff

Could puff? There's no way you could use a 1800mAH 20C in a 1/8 buggy. It WOULD puff/explode. Even if it could handle it, it would be lucky to last 5mins for run time.

1000mAH = 1A.

I would go 4500mAH and 30C as an absolute minimum specs.
I've used 5000mAH 20C packs in 1/8 before and they just couldn't handle the current draw and would puff slightly at the end of each run.
For a longer run time, I'd get 3 or 4 packs which should get you around an hours run time or just a little more.

I'd also aim for a minimum of an 80W charger.

RoBB
30-10-2012, 10:46 AM
im sure he could work that out, are u trying to scare the bloke away? thats why i put up a link to read also

RatsacK
30-10-2012, 11:02 AM
im sure he could work that out, are u trying to scare the bloke away? thats why i put up a link to read also

Just trying to reinforce it. Trying to make sure he understands that it's very important to get the right batteries or he'll just waste money.
That link is a bloody novel, are you trying to scare him away? :p

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RoBB
30-10-2012, 11:13 AM
i didnt really read it lol, just googled

RatsacK
30-10-2012, 01:22 PM
i didnt really read it lol, just googled

It's definitely a good bit of information (I had a quick read) but it's a lot to take in at once. Especially for someone new to the hobby.

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razE
30-10-2012, 05:13 PM
Man I love you guys :D.

Ok well ill get this battery x 2 http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__10307__Turnigy_5000mAh_4S_40C_Lipo_Pack.html

And this charger http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__10382__iCharger_206B_300W_8s_Balance_Charger.html

Is that all good to go?

Thanks again, appreciate it.

RatsacK
30-10-2012, 06:07 PM
That should be a perfect setup mate. I use those batteries in my 1/8 stuff and they go well. I think Rob has a charger like that as well and it seems pretty good.

RoBB
30-10-2012, 08:14 PM
Need a power supply for the charger

razE
30-10-2012, 09:39 PM
What power supply do you recommend to go with this charger http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__10382__iCharger_206B_300W_8s_Balance_Charger.html

What is the advantage to having a power supply? I thought I could hook the charger straight to a 12v car battery?

Nogas
30-10-2012, 09:57 PM
What power supply do you recommend to go with this charger http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__10382__iCharger_206B_300W_8s_Balance_Charger.html

What is the advantage to having a power supply? I thought I could hook the charger straight to a 12v car battery?

You can use a car battery but a power supply can be much more convenient. You want something that will supply you with enough power to charge your 5000's at the full 1C ( which is 5amps) . Basically anything above 100 watts will do but its always good to have a bit more.

These are good bang for buck, but the weight will bump your postage up.

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__16534__Hobbyking_PS35_DC_Power_Supply_for_Chargers_35A_350W_.html

I got a 30A 300W power supply off ebay for $20. I had to hard wire it all and its just a silver box but its never let me down.

stevo1957
30-10-2012, 10:13 PM
The Junsi P350 (350 watt - 15V, 23 Amp output) is a perfect combo for the 206B iCharger. I have this setup and can parallel charge 4 x 6S lipos quite easily.

Power supplies are convenient when at home.

I have 2 x 12v small car batteries with a switch to make them parralel or series (gives me 12 or 24 volts) in a plastic battery box that I take to the flying field. I just charge them up the night before with a cheap Aldi charger although the 206VB will also do Pb batteries.

Cheers,

Steve

towie964
30-10-2012, 10:59 PM
Hooking direct to a car battery is fine for in the field charging, but when at home, it much more convenient to use a Power Supply. That charger is going to need a 20Amp Power Supply, prefferrably one that can throw around 18v continuous.
Power Tech from Jaycar, is 20Amp @ 13.8v, part number is MP3078, and retails at $99.95.

Anything less is going to struggle.

Also running from your car battery is going to severely drain your battery if run for an excessive period.

Hobbyking have a 25Amp, 14v for around $40 but it is out of stock.

Or a 30Amp with variable voltage from 13.8v~18v output for $65.13 and it is in stock.

Mr.Leopard
31-10-2012, 05:51 AM
The EB4 G3 only has an 80Amp ESC and is limited to 4cell Lipo, running higher voltage packs will do damage to the ESC. There is an upgraded ESC from Thunder Tiger, the 150 Amp that will allow you to run the 5 and 6 cell batteries.

Plugging in a 6s or 5s will do no harm....it just won't run....already tried on the g3 mini pooper or whatever it's called

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towie964
31-10-2012, 09:37 AM
Plugging in a 6s or 5s will do no harm....it just won't run....already tried on the g3 mini pooper or whatever it's called

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I wouldnt bank on that one Jonny, plugging in a battery with a voltage higher than that of a 4S lipo can cause the 80Amp ESC to Fail to Initalize or operate, I have seen it first hand on several occassions, it also Voids Any Warranty for the 80A Thunder Tiger ESC, as the TT 80Amp ESC has a maximum 4S input limit.

The other problem that can occur, if the ESC accepts the larger 5/6 cell Lipo, the LVC is only set to a maximum of a 4S lipos cut off (12v aggregate), effectively allowing a 5/6 cell to be drained below the safe cut off voltage.

razE
09-11-2012, 05:50 PM
Hey guys!

Well the car is here, the Turnigy batteries 5000mah 4s 40c's are here and I brought a cheaper charger to get started a Turnigy accucel 6. My problem is and I think someone already mentioned it is I need to change the connectors. My batteries have 6mm wires coming out and I was advised at a hobby shop to put dean plugs on which I attempted today and tbh I dont like it...... the bullet connectors they come with seem like such a better idea that I ordered 6 male and 6 female 6mm bullet connectors. Now I know they fit the battery (6mm wire), and the dean plug on the car should be ok to be changed but will it be a problem using the 6mm bullet connectors on the wires which are considerably smaller coming out of the Turnigy charger? I assume it will be ok but I am no expert obviously and would love to here if I have done the right thing and if I haven't what I need to do. I was told adaptors would be bad because they use smaller wires and would cause resistance and heat up too. Any advice guys?

BIG-block
09-11-2012, 06:08 PM
RazE, no issues with fitting those connectors to the smaller wires. It would be better option to get some bannana plugs as well with some 14-12awg wire. That way you could make up your own charge lead. It would be more durable for sure. Wouldn't worry too much about resistance unless the wire is stupidly thin. The max charge rate you will be able to charge at will only be 3-3.5A (depending at what voltage the battery is at) with the littke Accucel6 so dont worry too much about that. Bigger wires would be most beneficial to make the charge lead stronger or if in future you get a more powerful charger.

So which car did you get? This thread is confusing me. You said MT4 but a lot of talk about EB4. ??????

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razE
09-11-2012, 08:19 PM
Sup bigblock. Thanks for your reply. I got the Mt4 and man I am itching to get the bad boy running. One thing I will say is today I had two crappy experiences with hobby/toy shops...... I am glad to have this great community around. I swear with a couple of weeks reading here I could challenge a few of the individuals working as "retail professionals". I have learnt a lot with todays failures so I can at least thank them for that. One guy I am pretty sure can't even read...... me "have you got any 5 or 6 mm bullet connectors", him "yes they look like it". I get to the shop and I can almost read the packet over the counter and it says 4mm bullet connectors. Drove a 45 minute round trip for nothing after the first fail experience of a 60 minute round trip to the other shop. All you can do is order the right bits (from a different shop), smile and carry on. :)

BIG-block
09-11-2012, 09:00 PM
Cool. Well they are a beast. However they do have two little flaws. One is the steering servo. Weak as **** and they like to fail early on but this can be said about every RTR kit. When it comes time get your self a Savox 1256. Direct fit and has plenty of beef. Second issues is the chassis. It kind of likes to bend just behind the front and in front of the rear bulkheads. Seems like a big issues but it can be fixed with a $5 piece of alloy from Bunnings and a few minutes with a hacksaw.

Have a good look around wondertiger.com. Its a site dedicated to the MT4. Plenty of invaluable information that will be very helpful. There is plenty of different designs for chassis braces and other homebrew solutions. You can see what people are doing with their trucks and get some ideas for your rig.

I started off with a MT4 but later converted it to a ST-1. Same front and rear ends but the ST-1 runs a more conventional truggy chassis which apealed to me more. Anyway I am sure you will love your truck.

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razE
09-11-2012, 09:32 PM
Sweet thanks mate. I have that rod that is off a harley motorcycle I believe in my watch list on ebay to use for the chassis mod. I wont be doing anything to crazy with it initially so I will probs buy the rod and make the brackets the weekend after I get it running. Thanks for the heads up on the servo to use. Appreciate it.

BIG-block
10-11-2012, 06:02 AM
Screw that. Send me a PM with your addy details and I'll send you the Harley brace. I have one sitting here doing nothing. Its all yours.

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scales
10-11-2012, 07:58 AM
lucky boy raze the rest of use have to make our own!

razE
10-11-2012, 09:38 AM
Big block.... thank you brother! Sending you a pm now!

BIG-block
10-11-2012, 09:53 AM
lucky boy raze the rest of use have to make our own!

Is this what you after Scales.
17425

I night have one more. I know I have one for raz for sure but you might be in luck too. I will go have a looksy for you as well.

scales
10-11-2012, 10:12 AM
Is this what you after Scales.
17425

I night have one more. I know I have one for raz for sure but you might be in luck too. I will go have a looksy for you as well.

Yeah it's cool though i have one on it's way, thanks anyway

razE
10-11-2012, 11:20 PM
With the bullet plugs, is it necessary to have the protector covers I see in some videos or can I simply heat shrink the female end and leave the male exposed? The male end on the battery has like a cover over it but I believe this would only be for protection while its shipped around the world and needs to be removed for use?

Pro.28Avenger
11-11-2012, 08:58 AM
I heat shrink both connectors, but just leave the end of the male plug exposed. I have male on negative, female on positive of the battery, BUT occasionally if you are not careful with what you are doing the plugs can contact each other causing a large arc. Other people have males on the ESC and females on the battery to try to avoid this from happening, but that allows for you to hook the battery up backwards and fry your esc. The best way to heat shrink them that i have found is once soldiered, cutg a piece of heatshrink long enough to cover both plugs, slide the heatshrink on one lead, plug them together and then shrink the tube. Then with a sharp knife cut around the join and seperate, that way when they are plugged in you get a totally insulated join.

The cover over the end of the male is as you said, to stop any chance of the battery shorting during transport, you can do it to all of your batts if you are worried about them shorting but you will end up having pieces of heat shrink everywhere. I can transport 16 lipos in a box and have never had them short during transport.

BIG-block
11-11-2012, 09:33 AM
I heat shrink both connectors, but just leave the end of the male plug exposed. I have male on negative, female on positive of the battery, BUT occasionally if you are not careful with what you are doing the plugs can contact each other causing a large arc. Other people have males on the ESC and females on the battery to try to avoid this from happening, but that allows for you to hook the battery up backwards and fry your esc. The best way to heat shrink them that i have found is once soldiered, cutg a piece of heatshrink long enough to cover both plugs, slide the heatshrink on one lead, plug them together and then shrink the tube. Then with a sharp knife cut around the join and seperate, that way when they are plugged in you get a totally insulated join.

The cover over the end of the male is as you said, to stop any chance of the battery shorting during transport, you can do it to all of your batts if you are worried about them shorting but you will end up having pieces of heat shrink everywhere. I can transport 16 lipos in a box and have never had them short during transport.

In adding to that (which is all excellent advice) its also a good idea to have the wires different lengths. For example the negative black wire on the battery, if it was shorter by about an inch, then there would be next to no chace of accidental contact. You just do the opposite on the ESC and leave the black negative with the female connector longer and once the battery is hooked up all the wiring looks the same lenght and it will all be nice and neat. I know its all going a bit anal and over the top but I always try to make my wiring as neat as possible.

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razE
11-11-2012, 09:50 AM
Thanks guys :)

razE
14-11-2012, 06:50 PM
Well tonight was the night where I got bullet connectors soldered on and everything went smoothly! I charged the battery's, and popped one in the car and when I went to connect the positive and the negative up I heard a little electricity zap and I was thinking don't tell me..... and then the fan on the speed controller (I think :D) fired up. I gave it a quick test around my small backyard and almost lost a wheel lol. I took the car down to the water easement near mine and let it have some and it ran around perfectly for around 30 minutes hard play on the 4 cell Turnigy 5000 Mah 40c that were suggested here in this thread. It handles really well once I remembered I could changed the steering sensitivity with the controller. At some point I may see myself want to go to a 5 cell lipo for a little extra speed or maybe you can change the gears i'm not sure. Overall I am very happy with this truck and look forward to doing some more bashing with it. Also wanted to say thanks to everyone who responded in this thread because it has been a lot of help.

The only other question I have at the moment is while I was driving I didn't really notice the car slowing down and I was starting to wonder when i was going to notice a change in speed and then it just stopped. Could move the steering and could hear the fan still running. I assumed it just cuts out when its running low on juice. Is that what happened?

Thanks again guys,
Matt.

BIG-block
14-11-2012, 07:13 PM
Yeah Matt, thats exactly what happened. The LVC (low voltage cutoff) kicked in and stopped the party. All is good. Just one Q. Do you know what your LVC is set at? You want it at least 3.2V but the higher you set it the longer your lipos will live. On the down side the runtime would be a little shorter but you shouldn't notice much.
Also I cant be bothered going back to read but you got the MT4 right? If everything is stock you can turn up the gearing a little from stock and that will give you a little more oomph. From my experience 2 tooth up on the pinion is not an issue. At least down here in cooler Melbourne. Up there in Brissy due to warmer weather maybe try one tooth bigger pinion and see how the temps go. If they are still fine and you want more speed then go up one more tooth. Stock pinion is 12 but I have found the truck really livens up with a 14T pinion. If your temps are fine then you might be happy with just a pinion change instead of going to 5S.

Oh and if you think the spark is big on 4S when you plugged the bullets together, you should see what happens when you connect 12S. I fell of the chair while I was testing a customers HV setup. The flash and the noise was way kore than I was expecting. LOL.

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razE
14-11-2012, 08:33 PM
Lol I see. Yep I got the MT4. I have no idea how to set or check my LVC. I will have a look at it tomorrow and see what happens. I will have a look at the 14t pinion this weekend and see if I can buy it locally (online). My Turnigy accucel 6 charger just gave me a message of cappa instead of the normal alarm and full message after about 90 minutes. A little weird. I didn't receive a manual with my charger but I restarted the charge so i'll see if it sorts itself out. Is it ok to store the batteries full for a week or two at a time? Is there any risk of them catching fire if they are not shorting out with the positive and negative touching and are not in direct sunlight? Thanks again for sending that bracket bro... appreciate it man. If your ever in Brisbane let me know.

Charger just came back reporting full after a few minutes of restarting.

razE
16-11-2012, 03:20 PM
Hey Darko, that brace you sent arrived today, very happy! Thank you. :)

I took the car for a bit of a cruise around on a little rough dirt, nothing serious but it was pretty bumpy and now the steering isn't working. It will drive but wont steer. I wiggled all wires and pushed on all plugs while moving the steering on the controller and nothing would work. I grabbed the front wheels and moved it left to right and everything felt normal. I could hear the servo and it sounded normal (the unit that moves the wheels left and right just in case I am using the wrong word) Just seems like it isn't getting power for the steering. I'm no expert so if anyone has any ideas or thinks they know what is broken I would love to hear from you. This is its second drive around so it has only really done about 45 minutes work.

Thanks,
Matt.

razE
16-11-2012, 03:50 PM
After doing some reading it sounds like the motor in the servo is broken? Guess its time already for the Savox 1256.

RoBB
16-11-2012, 03:55 PM
Servo sounds dead mate, the stock servo is very average and usually goes 1st out of the electronics

U could try taking all pressure of it and see if it works, but I reckon it's no good

Look up the savox 1256, lot of people seem to use them

RoBB
16-11-2012, 03:56 PM
Lol to slow a reply, sounds like u know what your doing anyway

BIG-block
16-11-2012, 03:59 PM
Sadly I think your servo has packed it in mate. Sorry but its very common. They really arent much chop but not many RTR servos are. You will have to get a new one. If you have another servo (any kind) just plug it into the same port on the receiver and see if it works. If it does then you need to get another. Jump on ebay and get the Savox 1256TG from rcmart/dinball for $65. Its probably the best budget servo out there and its a direct replacment too. The servo horn is a bit of a tight fit but it will go on.

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razE
16-11-2012, 04:17 PM
Beauty and thanks guys. I'll order the Savox tomorrow. Was good just heading out with a couple of mates even if we didn't do a lot of driving.... well worth it. I see there is a Savox 1256 and a 1256tg. The 1256 is around 30 dollars more, worth the 30 bucks and anyone know if it will fit?

RoBB
16-11-2012, 04:38 PM
Up to you

Tg = titanium gears I think

BIG-block
16-11-2012, 04:56 PM
From what I know there is only one version and thats the 1256TG. I never seen the SG one. Its either steel gears or titanium gears. Nothing else in that Savox range. I think its only the price difference from different sellers.

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razE
16-11-2012, 05:15 PM
Ok, when I look at the pictures one is definitely a 1256 and one is 1256tg. One is metal and one is titanium gears. You would think the titanium gears would be better.... I'll run with that because at least I know it fits. Here is the links if anyone is interested.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/SAVOX-DIGITAL-TITANIUM-GEAR-SERVO-RC-CORELESS-20KG-SC-1256TG-1-8-BUGGY-TRUCK-/390462432833?pt=AU_Toys_Hobbies_Radio_Controlled_Vehicles&hash=item5ae95fe641&_uhb=1#ht_1314wt_1064

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Savox-Digital-1256-Metal-Gear-Servo-15-20KG-/160513627800?pt=AU_Toys_Hobbies_Radio_Controlled_Vehicles&hash=item255f5b9698&_uhb=1#ht_500wt_1156

Cheers boys.

BIG-block
16-11-2012, 05:36 PM
I think the one that says 1256 only is an old discontinued version. Savox site has no refrence at all to the 1256 only 1256TG.
Anyway in most cases steel is stronger than titanium. No I am not crazy. I think all this bruhaha about titanium is just hype. Firstly people have to understand that titanium is an alloy and like so many other alloys they have different grades. Space grade or surgical grade titanium alloy is crazy expensive and that stuff will never make it to RC cars. The grade of titanium alloy they use on RC cars is nearly at the bottom of the scale. This is why Savox use steel gear sets on all their ultra high torque servos. Lot of other manufacturers do the same too I believe. It would be very hard to make such tiny gears from ultra hard titanium alloy.

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razE
16-11-2012, 06:56 PM
I hear ya mate and it makes sense to me. I like to call it bro science haha.

cryocat
16-11-2012, 07:58 PM
Hey mate, saw your question earlier in regards to your lipo battery storage. I stumbled across this a while ago and found it rather comprehensive -

http://www.rchelicopterfun.com/rc-lipo-batteries.html

schmarkoDave
16-11-2012, 08:08 PM
I think the one that says 1256 only is an old discontinued version. Savox site has no refrence at all to the 1256 only 1256TG.
Anyway in most cases steel is stronger than titanium. No I am not crazy. I think all this bruhaha about titanium is just hype. Firstly people have to understand that titanium is an alloy and like so many other alloys they have different grades. Space grade or surgical grade titanium alloy is crazy expensive and that stuff will never make it to RC cars. The grade of titanium alloy they use on RC cars is nearly at the bottom of the scale. This is why Savox use steel gear sets on all their ultra high torque servos. Lot of other manufacturers do the same too I believe. It would be very hard to make such tiny gears from ultra hard titanium alloy.

Sent from my GT-I9210T using Tapatalk 2

I thought the titanium was more about keeping weight down than adding strength?

BIG-block
17-11-2012, 01:57 AM
I thought the titanium was more about keeping weight down than adding strength?

The weight difference between such small parts would be two tenths of f#@& all. Two to three grams. If that even..... You would get a better weight reduction with scraping some of the mud from under the wing. LOL. I am not anti titanium as I do have titanium turnbuckles on my RC8T but they are mainly a wank feature. Just wanted to make it all nice and pretty. :rolleyes:
I guess in some situations titanium has its place. If you need something stronger that aluminum but lighter than steel titanium is the answer. Its hard to shed weight of a basic RC such as a buggy/truggy because they are so minimalistic already so lighter titanium parts might be the answer although I am not sure how much difference servo gears could make or if it would be worth the trouble.

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towie964
17-11-2012, 06:31 AM
Both are Titanium geared, both coreless, .15 transit, and 20kg Torque

scales
17-11-2012, 06:56 AM
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/SAVOX-DIGITAL-TITANIUM-GEAR-SERVO-RC-CORELESS-20KG-SC-1256TG-1-8-BUGGY-TRUCK-/390462432833?pt=AU_Toys_Hobbies_Radio_Controlled_Vehicles&hash=item5ae95fe641&_uhb=1#ht_1314wt_1064

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Savox-Digital-1256-Metal-Gear-Servo-15-20KG-/160513627800?pt=AU_Toys_Hobbies_Radio_Controlled_Vehicles&hash=item255f5b9698&_uhb=1#ht_500wt_1156

Cheers boys.

these are both still dear, like big block says you'll get it for $65

froggy
17-11-2012, 07:21 AM
What are radiopost servos like? There's a model http://radiopost.com/products/detail.aspx?cat=101&id=14
That has excellent torque 305oz and speed 0.07sec/60' for $120. I haven't seen any other brands come close to both specs on the same servo.

razE
23-11-2012, 06:41 PM
Just thought I would give an update. Put the new savox servo in and very happy with it. Before when the truck wasn't moving it wouldn't be able to steer fully, now it can so you can see it has a lot more grunt. Looking forward to throwing this 14t pinion on when it gets here. Thanks again guys.

wobblygts
23-11-2012, 06:45 PM
What are radiopost servos like? There's a model http://radiopost.com/products/detail.aspx?cat=101&id=14
That has excellent torque 305oz and speed 0.07sec/60' for $120. I haven't seen any other brands come close to both specs on the same servo.

This might be a brand to watch out for, a couple of racers here in Vic I know of have got the radios. :D

schmarkoDave
23-11-2012, 11:20 PM
The weight difference between such small parts would be two tenths of f#@& all. Two to three grams. If that even..... You would get a better weight reduction with scraping some of the mud from under the wing. LOL. I am not anti titanium as I do have titanium turnbuckles on my RC8T but they are mainly a wank feature. Just wanted to make it all nice and pretty. :rolleyes:
I guess in some situations titanium has its place. If you need something stronger that aluminum but lighter than steel titanium is the answer. Its hard to shed weight of a basic RC such as a buggy/truggy because they are so minimalistic already so lighter titanium parts might be the answer although I am not sure how much difference servo gears could make or if it would be worth the trouble.

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That's fair enough. It would be interesting to see if any manufacturers make the exact same servo one with steel gears and one with titanium gears and see the weight difference.
I liked in big Kevs hor Mann build thread when he compared the weights of his steel parts and the titanium replacement, they were pretty consistently close to half the weight, so that's a pretty big saving I guess, admittedly that was large scale so the difference is going to be more dramatic.