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I think this will be my next build: Racing Sparrow Class.

13K views 101 replies 9 participants last post by  coolmobility 
#1 ·
Having received approval from the minister of my finances to procure some new tools being a band saw, linisher drill press and maybe a mini milling machine on the provision that i sell the motorcycle trailer to make space for it all.

I was looking around for an easy first build just to get back into the swing of construction, plus all these damn boat threads that seem to be popping up on here every other day, and i cant just make another gas boat like everyone else, i gotta be different. That after a bit of googling i came across the Racing Sparrow. Its a simple design and looks easy to build.



With the plans here: http://www.racingsparrow.co.nz/docs/RS_750.pdf thankfully the wife has a sewing machine and overlocker so she can make the sails for it, should be a cheep and easy boat to craft.
 
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#2 · (Edited)
i'm going to keep my eye on this thread, since i built that yacht a few weeks ago i have been thinking about getting one, depending on how you go i might have a go at building one, albeit using the most basic equipment.

What material/s are you planning on using for the hull?
 
#3 · (Edited)
The bulkheads i would do out of 6mm marine ply, i got plenty of that here already, the deck out of 3mm marine ply, the hull i would plank out in 5mmx2mm balsa strips.

Pretty much i would build it upside down using a jig to support the bulkheads, then run the keel strip down the centre line and then plank it out to the gunnels, drop in the deck, build in the keel fin then glass the entire thing. Using CA to glue the strips in place.

A jig is pretty easy to make, use a sheet of 10mm ply, draw a line down the centre, place 12mm square blocks at the bulkhead spacings and nail into place. When you cut the bulkheads, draw in the centre line from top to bottom, then its just a matter of lining up the centrelines to the jig and pining them in place.

Its pretty much how we built ships at the old Loydes yard in Brisbane. Just in miniature.
 
#4 ·
Cheers for the tips ;) Might wait till you have finished yours so that i can get advice, as i know i am going to need it.
 
#5 ·
Yeah i have started to source all the crap i will need for it, balsa, carbon rod for the mast, what kind of resin etc to use to glass it and the like, sail materials. There is a fair bit to it.
 
#6 ·
Yeah i printed the plans off earlier for a look and it looks like there will be a bit to it, probably the most involved build i will have done. But will be a good place to start for moving away from the simpler builds. Am thinking about re-building the airboat out of ply just for the experience before attempting this.
 
#7 ·
In some ways that will help you a lot, especially if you are not used to working with wood. And while the swamp boat construction is really different to one of these sail boats, there are a lot of skills that cross over, and if you make a mess of it, you have not invested too many dollars into it, a few bucks on ply and glue, of which you will be using the ply in other builds. a 1/2 sheet of 6mm and full sheet of 3mm will make you quite a few boats.
 
#8 ·
i've done plenty of basic wood working, i build all of my own snake enclosures, racks, ect, but have never had to build anything to be water tight, and a slight discrepency in measurements isnt going to make all that much difference. Also everything i have done has been on a "large" scale, never anything as small as this, so would like to practice that more than anything. I already have a heap of 3mm that i use for motor mounts on my scratch built planes, so just need to get some 6mm and get to work.
 
#9 ·
Nice yacht! My Dad and I use to make yachts, mostly 4.3m Cats. We used Ripstop material for the sails.
 
#10 ·
Went shopping today for some materials to make this yacht.

10mmx1m alloy tube for the mast $6.50
6x6mm box for the sail booms $7 each
3mm brass tube for rudder and mast supports $4
2.5mm brass rod for rudder $4
100x1.5x980 balsa for hull planking $3.50 each need about 5
3mm ply for bulkheads, deck, hatches and plenty of other things $7 a sheet 1200x1800
Ripstop in 3 colours for sails. $9 a meter, enough to make 4+ sets of sails
Eyelets for the sails $3

Wood Ball pen Office supplies Writing implement Automotive exterior
Sleeve Wood T-shirt Bag Font
 
#11 · (Edited)
Ok, I have started to build this, here how things are going so far.

Started by drawing in the bulkhead centre lines.

Eyewear Font Office supplies Automotive design Material property


Using spray adhesive to stick the bulkheads to the ply.

Font Circle Stationery Paper Pattern


Everything cut out and ready for sanding.

Brown Font Jewellery Circle Stationery


Marking out the backbone prior to cutting it out.

Table Rectangle Wood Flooring Handwriting


Bulkheads glued to backbone ready for planking. Centreline of the bulkheads lined up to the centreline of the backbone, to keep things square and straight. Once planked, the backbone is removed.

Hood Table Wood Gas Flooring
 
#12 ·
looking good mate, will be following your work on this one ;) I got my hands on a set of sails from another broken yacht at the shop so i can cross that one off the list for now, they are the right size and everything :D
 
#13 · (Edited)
#14 · (Edited)
Got a bit more done, because my planking was rather rough, i decided to bog and sand the hull prior to glassing to get it into shape. Its coming along nice for a first time build on one of these. I have learned alot from the mistakes i have made. I will be making another one for sure, with the aim of better build quality.

Oh and 1mm balsa planking as recommended for this is why too thin, I used 1.5 and find that it has too much flex in it to be able to worth well with it. I think the 2.5 or 3mm would be a much better option, giving a little more rigidity.
 
#16 ·
Been thinking about this boat while i have been working on the swamp boat. What i am going to do next time round, rather than planking in balsa, i am going to lay the bulkheads out, then put blocks of Styrofoam between the bulkheads and then pull the shape with a hot wire. Then lube up the styro, and then lay up the glass 2 or 3 layers instead of 1. By removing the balsa, i can then use polyester resin which is cheaper than epoxy, because i will not be concerned with water rotting the timber due to micropores. I think it will also make the entire process much quicker too.
 
#17 ·
That sounds like it might be alot easier to build it that way, i dont have a hot wire, but i guess i could sand the foam back to the shape that i need, would probably end up neater if i did it that way. Then again i have a local plastics/foam shop that would probably do it cheap for me if i dropped the bulkheads off fixed to a backbone.
 
#19 ·
hmmmm i know where i can get that locally.... would you leave the wire loose and pull it taught across the bulkheads or follow them as best as you can with a taught wire from the start?
 
#20 ·
Hey roger i'm struggling to find ply thinner than 3mm locally, would balsa with glass over the top be ok for the planking?
 
#21 ·
Yeah they recommend using 1mm balsa for the planking. If you are going that route, i would suggest using 2mm balsa, you need the extra rigidity of the balsa. That said, i think not using planking is a better way to go, use styro and the hot wire, pull the wire tight and follow the shape of the bulkheads to get the final hull shape. A little sanding here and there, to finish it off, then glass over it.

I should have the stuff here this weekend if the mail comes on time to do the hull like that, i think i will scrap my first attempt because my printer printed things out the wrong size and everything is smaller than it should be.
 
#22 ·
yeah i was going to use 2mm just for the extra thickness, i think i would be better doing it that way, instead of the foam, gives me some structure to fix things to on the inside, as well as being a little stronger when i am finished. How are you planning on making the keel? I have a 1m Soling here to build that i have to make the keel for, i have the outer mold for it, but need to get 6.5lbs of lead shot and a heap of epoxy resin to fill it....
 
#23 ·
I have been up the tip to collect a few old car batteries, so i have plenty of lead, its just a matter of making the mold for the keel bulb and then pouring it. I am a little ways off that for now, but i have the materials for about 5 bulbs.

Buying lead shot or sinkers is an expensive way to do things i think. Better to salvage the lead from batteries and cast the bulb, then put a coating of resin over the bulb. Just make sure you wear safety gear when melting and pouring lead, You dont want your wang to fall off from lead poisoning.

Whats the 1m Soloing you have? Is it kit or just plans? If i like this sailboat business, i will make an IOM class boat next, because there are a number of clubs that drive them very close to where i live.
 
#24 ·
never thought of the car batteries... how do you go about opening the casings and removing the acid to get to the plates? I have 2-3 old batteries in the shed that i can raid....

The soling is a "kit", but a little more advanced than i am used to, its a bare hull in 2 pieces (hull and deck), all fittings are either wood or brass, with the keel mount, servo mounts etc needing to be made from wooden blocks, mast is just a piece of shaped dowel that needs all of the mounting holes drilled and the list goes on, so basically a scratch build with a formed hull. lol. From reading the instructions it meets regualtions for the international class. This will sit in the box for a while i think i still need to source a winch/rudder servo, as well as enough resin to fill the remainder of the keel.
 
#25 ·
After draining and flushing out the batteries with clean water, i just hack them open any old way, axe, grinder will do the job nice. You will have to post up some pics of this soloing kit so i can take a look at it.
 
#26 ·
will try grab some tomorrow, its down the shed and i dont have lights out there at the moment.

Where/what do you drain the acid into?
 
#28 ·
The hote wire i ordered turned up today, found a fibreglass guy just down the road from me who i can buy resin $10 a Kg including hardener and cloth for $10 a meter also. I got a bunch of styro here from the new washing machine we bought, so, all going well, I might have a fully glassed up hull by Sunday.
 
#30 ·
Sweet thats quick, it would take me a month around all of my family comitments. If i can do it in my loungeroom it gets done pretty quickly but if i have to go to my workshop it takes a little longer.

Here's some pics of the soling






 
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