Hi all,
Never painted a RC body before, and wanted to give it a go.
Going to buy a clear shell for my HPI Trophy Truggy.
Just wanted to ask a few things, like:
- What is a good paint, what do you guys use? (Not too expensive)
- Are things like pin striping hard..? (Using tape)
Ive had successful experiences painting Lord of The Rings Warhammer.
I don't plan on doing it for maybe a month or two, so there is no rush, but i really want to have a go.
Thanks for that, I'm sure I've seen this paint down al my LHS.
Do you paint much yourself...?
Im thinking of doing just a white body, put some stripes and some decals.
Thanks
I'm in the same boat as Crusey, I have done 2 black bonnets which just involved a bunch of painters tape but i'd probably try a liquid mask if I do it again.
just remember to wash the inside of the shell with warm soapy water (i ended up with finger prints all over my first attempt)
have your window mask on (i forgot to tell the missus this before her first paint)
have the bodies a little warm seems to help as well (by this i don't mean stick it in the oven, leave it in the sun for 2 minutes before painting)
don't do it inside (somebody will have you neck for that)
where ever you do it, make sure there isn't any **** flying around like dust or dog hair
apply even coats, end to end and keep turning the body so you don't miss the sides.
I can tell you far more don't then do's lol i've stuffed a few up
A couple more random pointers from someone who has only ever painted with rattle cans:
Use a heat gun to _gently_ warm up the can before and after you shake it, it loosens up the paint and makes it flow much better.
If using masking tape, make sure it's the blue or purple painters tape not regular white tape. The painters tape is low tack and will not leave residue where cheap white masking tape will cause you no end of troubles. Use your finger nails to press down the edges of the tape to avoid bleeding but try not to touch the exposed surface of the plastic.
Don't be tempted by the 500mm $5 cans of paint from Bunnings, they are not designed for painting on Lexan. I have used the Tamiya paint in the past and it's good but the last body I painted I used RC Car Colours (http://rchobbies.com.au/store/advanced_search_result.php?keywords=RC+CAR+COLOUR&x=0&y=0_) which is the same price as the Tamiya paint but you get 33% more in a can (150ml vs 100ml), good value and a decent range of colours.
When painting start the can spraying away from the body and run it the full length then don't stop until you have completely passed over the body, this will avoid the chance of spotting which happens when a rattle can stops and starts paint flow, this is not so important when painting a clear body on the inside because inside painting can hide a multitude of sins, but it's still a good habit to get in to.
Don't let the paint completely dry before removing any masking, if you do you run the risk of lifting the paint so make sure you remove the mask as soon as possible. This can be hard if you have multiple layers/colours but you'll be surprised how quick this paint can dry. Always remove the mask slowly, if you see the paint lifting use a sharp hobby knife to score the edge of the tape.
Take your time and don't rush
If you make a big mistake and need to start over, Dot4 Brake Fluid is amazing for removing paint from a lexan body without causing any damage, see this video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=085nJyj4TBM. I'm not sure if this is available in Australia, haven't looked yet.
Here's the last body I painted, it's three colour with a simple straight racing line: IMG_6819 by Chris Hore (Scratch2k), on Flickr
That's all I can think of for now, but like Godles said you will learn more from your mistakes than your successes so don't be afraid to just jump in and have a go.
Fine Line Masking Tape (made by 3M/Scotch) should make masking a bit easier, it's a thin/narrow flexible tape that you can make shapes and stuff out of.
Once you get what you want, just put the normal masking tape over this and put it down normally.
Parma liquid mask works really well, a few coats and you can be real creative and do all sorts of things.
I recommend you do very light coats, start at one end of the body and spray a stright line to the other end. Let it dry then repeat, remember light coats holding the can about 15 - 20cm away from the body. If you get too close or spray too much you will get runs in the paint which will look crapola.
Dunno if somebody else has mentioned this but if you spray veeery lightly on the first couple of coats it "seals" the edges of the masking tape and stops/minimises bleed under the tape. :thumb:
Just wanted to know if anybody here knows where to get a HPI Trophy 4.6 Truggy Clear body shell, for a decent price. From here, or international.
Hw much do they usually go for...?
Didn't want to link to any other sites, but i found a couple with a google search.
Not very cheap for a clear Trophy Truggy body though, there don't seem to be many of them.
The Hot Bodies Lightning 2 Stadium Truck body will also fit the Trophy
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