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Spazstix VS Createx VS Fasmask VS Pre-Prep

3K views 5 replies 4 participants last post by  evilair 
#1 ·
I want to use Spazstix Chrome (aerosol) and Createx (airbrush) paints on the same job. I will be spraying the Createx both before and after the Spaztix Chrome.

Will this cause any problems?
If I use the Pre-Prep (aerosol) will this react with the Createx paints?
Will the Spazstix Chrome react with Fasmask?

From questions I have asked previously I believe I have some of the answers...
Spraying Createx first could cause bad reactions with the Spazstix.
Spraying Createx after Spazstix is recommended for backing.
Spraying Aerosols onto Liquid Masking can cause the LM to "heal itself".

But, if I do only light coats of the Createx (I want to do drop shadows before the chrome), let it dry, then begin with light coats of the Chrome, it could come out OK.

So...
How long should I wait after doing the drop shadows before I spray the chrome?
Will the Spazstix Pre-Prep react with the Createx paints?
 
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#2 ·
im curious about this 2
i havent heard of createx paints, are they water based?

your suppose to use water based paints with mirror chrome
 
#3 ·
Createx are waterbased same as Parma fascolor. almost exactly the same paint and packaging. I always back/seal my fascolour and createx paint with tamiya rattle can paint with no ill effects. light coats. hairdryer between coats. I don't see the chrome being a problem if you spray correctly, light, even coats.
BUT.
whenever I'm worried about paint compatibility or colour results with different backing I always do a test spray on an old P.E.T. drink bottle. just cut it in half and try it out. it only takes a few minutes. I learned to do that the hard way.


BTW. the one paint I have experienced bleed through was when I sprayed tail lights with candy red at the end of a complex paintjob done with waterbased paint. the candy red seemed to have more thinners in it and it bled like a stuck pig through the other colours so watch out for tamiya transparent range rattle cans. they are ok if you apply them before other colours.


I regularly do small portions of chrome like pinstripes and window surrounds but you always back it with black before you do another colour to make the chrome look solid and not transparent therefore it's never been an issue for me.

I try not to do big areas with chrome because I find the results can be hit'n'miss as the metallic particles can tend to follow static on the shell or pool around imperfections or residue on the surface. I like the rattle can chrome better than the airbrush chrome. I find it looks more like real chrome. unfortunately the rattle can chrome I use is not spaztix so i'm not sure about compatibility for your intended combination. I would test myself anyway rather than trust a suggestion if I were in your position.

one thing to remember with most airbrush chrome is that it is spirit based and as you probably already know spirit or metho will wipe fresh waterbased paint off so you really should not spray it wet. don't be fooled either. when you spray chrome with an airbrush you can hardly even see the stuff so you can get tempted to dump it on. that proves very costly. trust me. you don't really see it properly till it's backed.
Note: Rattle can chrome is a completely different animal. it covers well and you see it clearly.

If you only get one thing out of all the stuff I've written I hope it is the importance of doing a test spray. you can plan everything except practical experience.

good luck.
 
#4 ·
Thanks guys. I will be doing a test spray before starting the real work, I just wanted to get your opinions/experiences to know if it was even a viable option. From the sounds of things it is quite normal given proper preparation and planning.
 
#5 ·
+1 eXraycer ,

test spray, test spray, test spray...

i use spaztik chrome and back it with tamiya black, both rattle cans.
but i try NOT to mix waterbased with other paints. if you can help it...
if you cant get the colour you want in airbrush paint, you can spray into a small container from a rattle can, thin with thinners then put it in your airbrush, i do this a lot with tamiya rattles. i just find that the tamiya PS and spaztiks, stick really well to polycarb bodies.
and just incase you didnt get it the first time :

test spray, test spray, test spray...

:painkiller:
 
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