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Cyclone S - to Drift Spec?

8K views 20 replies 10 participants last post by  danhfvcsd 
#1 ·
I have a Hot Bodies Cyclone S, running a 7T Speedie and a 9T Brushed Motor... Now i've had the fun going fast in a straight line... I want to go fast sideways :)

So I am wanting to convert it to a drifter... It drifts ok on the tiles at home but thats just because of the power and getting absolutely no traction...

What parts do i need to convert it? Should i get a HPI D-Box? One Way Diffs? Locked Diffs? Drift Tires? Higher Turn Motor?
 
#2 ·
I suggest you buy some HPI T-Drift tyres, and get a LOWER powered motor with higher torque - you don't need power for drifting as much as you do torque.
Also, lock the rear diff up using the blu-tack or rag trick.

try that setup first, and remember to only change one thing at a time to get it setup to how you like to drift.
a lot of guys (including me) like to run softer springs at the back with some 1:1 car wheel weights at the front.
 
#3 ·
if you don't mind spending some money, i'd suggest go down the road that HB have done with their drift spec cyclone. just search on the internet, or the thread that I started. i think it has a one-way in the rear (i always get it mixed up because the cyclone pro has the one-way in the front) and HPI drift tyres.

the d-box works fine, but i don't think it's value for money. i bought one about 18 months after i had been mucking around with drifting. didn't help me at all.
 
#4 ·
As far as tires go, I am looking at either the HPI 33458 Super Drift Radials or HPI 33457 T-Drift...

Are the Radials ok for electic? or are they only for nitro?

So i've looked at the Cyclone S Drift, its got a locked rear diff and a 16T one way center diff... thats about the main difference i could see... maybe the springs are different too?

Any recommendations for a motor? would something like a 17-19T Venom Motor be ok?
 
#5 · (Edited)
i just checked the sticker. it says front solid axle, and center one-way. so the rear is regular ball diff... i can't remember if i put the solid axle in the back instead...

the springs are different, but i wouldn't be fussed about that. the S drift also have some alloy bulkheads which may affect the weight distribution?

17-19T motor will be fine. it was going well enough for me with a stock silver can.
 
#9 · (Edited)
i had been using PVC for a while, made with the same procedure stoogey indicated.

i found that PVC worked well on regular cement, but too slippery on polished cement. I have yet to find any local store that sell ABS in reasonable quantity (i found a place which sell them in 100M coils).

but you can get driftwheels from rcmart for $5 or something, which is the option that i've taken.

drifters are pretty much more worried about how their car looks, rather than the specs of electronics.

Before you say anything else.....watch this....
how cool was that indoor track with the tracks that are about 2 body lengths wide?! that's something that nitro drifting can't do.
 
#10 ·
Stoogey,
He's running a bloody 9t motor.

He would get so little traction it would be like trying to drift on ice with no tyres on your rims.

Mate, i currently run some ABS plastic tyres, but do like T-drifts for some of the less-grippy surfaces - they work great on normal concrete and normal tarmac.
I don't know exactly what it is, but using the tyres i use, i get the perfect mix of slip/grip.

Polished cement with T-drifts/ABS mix between us:
http://au.youtube.com/watch?v=qKWGc-KRcEg

Normal cement with about 70% of us running ABS:
http://au.youtube.com/watch?v=gitCzFRxfbc
 
#12 ·
Stoogey,
He's running a bloody 9t motor.

He would get so little traction it would be like trying to drift on ice with no tyres on your rims.

Mate, i currently run some ABS plastic tyres, but do like T-drifts for some of the less-grippy surfaces - they work great on normal concrete and normal tarmac.
I don't know exactly what it is, but using the tyres i use, i get the perfect mix of slip/grip.

Polished cement with T-drifts/ABS mix between us:
http://au.youtube.com/watch?v=qKWGc-KRcEg

Normal cement with about 70% of us running ABS:
http://au.youtube.com/watch?v=gitCzFRxfbc
dude hes running a 9t motor .... whats your point.

i run a 3.5r novak brushless with 4900mah lipo? you just turn down the throttle epa and its wicked as. mines at 10% now and it kills any stock can motor out, and theres no maintenance on the electronics.

i run ABS wheels, you can pop over to one of the aus drift forums (depending on where your from) and they should have ABS that they can send to you, i know they do on rcd1.org as thats where i get mine

good luck
 
#13 ·
Yup thats the one... I had to replace the diff cups on both front and the back as the inside of them just broke out and was causing the diffs to slip majorly... but goes awesome now... its tons quicker than the savage x ss and anything else i have...

Stoogey,
He's running a bloody 9t motor.

He would get so little traction it would be like trying to drift on ice with no tyres on your rims.

Mate, i currently run some ABS plastic tyres, but do like T-drifts for some of the less-grippy surfaces - they work great on normal concrete and normal tarmac.
I don't know exactly what it is, but using the tyres i use, i get the perfect mix of slip/grip.

Polished cement with T-drifts/ABS mix between us:
http://au.youtube.com/watch?v=qKWGc-KRcEg

Normal cement with about 70% of us running ABS:
http://au.youtube.com/watch?v=gitCzFRxfbc
Yeah well with the current standard tyres, its like drifting on ice, when i drive on the tiles inside... on the bitumen it grips a bit but still if i stab the trottle it'll spin all 4 on the bitumen...
 
#16 ·
Yep, but very controlled..

And i assume you're refering to the first vid i posted?
Yeah, that red supra is running a brushless - it can do fast on surfaces when traction exists.
 
#17 ·
for drifitng just lock up the rear ...get yourself some pvc or abs...
i prefer abs as there is more grip with abs then pvc
and hey presto you have a slider........whether it's a good slider is a different story

and in reference to motors being to powerful....
no motor can be to powerful for drifting...you just need to know how to control it and when to use the power....
power will help you link longer corners and those long straights...
but you find that most of the time you dont' need it

i'm running a t2'008 xray with 5000 lipos and a 3.5 turn brushless always set on 100%......the only reason i can control itis cause my chassis set up allows me to put the power to the ground...
having the power on tap is very useful...you just need to know when to use it
 
#19 ·
The only problem i have come across with high power motors, is the fact that brushless motors dont like to be at partial throttle, thus heating up the electrics a whole lot more than they would be at WOT...

It's probably easier to note BL motors with their kv ratings, as the 3.5/9t etc etc varies across the board from manufacturer to manufacturer...

Currently i run a Feigao 380C 7T (58xxkv) and i find that on smaller, tighter tracks my setup runs alot hotter than it does on a more open and faster track...

You novak boys should have a go at switching out ur motors on smaller tracks and see how much heat you lose =)

If you have a high kv setup, and wanna run it @100% EPA via the tx - you can tune the throttle profile down with ur tx (deadband/exponential/etc) and most likely esc aswell - chassis tuning will help get power down aswell as Han mentioned....

With regards to the "slow" comment - i reckon nitro drifters look too... jumpy/twitchy - they dont have the 'scale' look to em as they slide round the place - kinda like they're in fast forward -lol- Not trying top bait anything here - just putting it out there hehehehe =)
 
#20 ·
if you're wanting to run such a low turn motor for drifting it'll be better if you use the hpi type a drift tyres or the tamiya drift tech tyres instead of pvc, abs or t-drifts as you'll find the t-drifts and any plastic based tyre will not have enough traction to handle high power at all. you'll still need a certain amount of traction for drifting even though you're sideways. on the cyclone, you'll find that the 1 way front and either rear ball diff done very tightly or spool will give you instant sideways action but you might be better off running a 1 way pulley and a front ball diff if you want a bit more control and a less skittish car. i had a cyclone s set up for drifting before the drift spec kits came out and i was running a spool rear and ball diff front with 1 way pulley and a novak 3.5 brushless and i was using the tamiya tyres and it drifted perfectly and still very controllable. i tried it with the t-drifts and it was just circleworks all the time. t-drifts and pvc/abs you'll find works a lot better on lower powered cars. with abs piping, i've found them available by the meter at some reece irrigation supplies stores but you may have to go to an outer metro or country store otherwise all their other stores will want to sell u by the bundle of 250m... or try looking around some new housing estates, the piping they use to lay underground cables is the same diameter as touring car rims and you can make abs tyres out of that. sometimes you'll find the excess pipes just thrown about and you may as well just pick them up and use them instead. hope that helps.
 
#21 ·
I should also add most of the fellas here at our local club run t-drifts, with a few on the blue lined poly pipe =)
 
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