Just wanted to post some new information, worth giving a try. I've just glued a set of tyres using some LOCTITE 480 'Superglue'.
In the past, I mainly use LOCTITE 406 or 'Pink' FLASH/ZAP. These glues are thin and very quick drying.
LOCTITE specify 2-20 second bond time with a viscosity of 15-25cP (flows very easily) and a sheer strength of 18-26 Nmn. (flash and zap both have NO specifications available).
This new LOCTITE 480 I've recently discovered is designed to rebond steering wheel rubber back to the metal ring, so is ideal for tyre-gluing applications.
Specifications for the LOCTITE 480 are: 60-120 second bond time, viscosity of 100-200cP (little bit thicker, same as ZAP green), and sheer strength of 22-30Nmn.
After just using it on a set of tyres, I had enough time to position the tyres correctly without rushing and have used the normal thin glue to finish off the beads, will run the tyres tomorrow to see how the strength holds up.
Can say that I am now happy to glue tyres (have been using pre-mounts where possible because I found the tyre-gluing episode very bl**dy frustrating)
There's a reason it's cheap, its freaking crap. Water would do a better job, I can literally rip the tyres off the rims with my hands after using that stuff.
You guys really need to try MuchMore CA. Also Team Associated makes a CA glue now, and apparently it's just rebadged loktite, and dam it works well.
That Loctite 480 is good stuff, I agree mate.
I can't stand Flash .. it's the worst sh*t I've ever used, and cos me several 1st and 2nd place finishes when it's delaminated mid race!!
is loctite 480 the black stuff? I used to use that and it was awesome for tires. since it was black it didnt leave nasty glue-stains all over the tires too. did stain plastic though... took a while to set but there was nothing that would break its bond.
[/edit] Lol just rang Repco. $31 for 25ml :O. Sounds about tight considering the prices everywhere else on the net. This stuff better be good scruffy....
zap is awesome...i have only one tyre ripped from the rim out of 13 litres. Unless you dont prep your tyre and rim before gluing it is absolutely fine.
I use my Dremel and sanding drum to scuff the inner of the tyre and the mating surface of the wheel.
Then I usually wash them too, to remove any dags etc..
The only tires I glue are mini-t tires and they used to come off all the time. I bought this stuff cause I thought the brush on would be a lot easier and it is and I haven't had a tire come off since. http://www.selleys.com.au/Quick-Fix-Brush-On/default.aspx. I must admit though that slower drying would be nice. I don't know how this would go for a large wheel. I have used it to fix the premount race wheels for my savage though and it seems to hold.
Repco in Geelong didn't have Locktite 480. They never heard of it till they rang locktite themselves. They said they could order it in, would take a week and cost $40. I let my fingers do the walking and found Rob Hamiltons Bearings. They knew of the stuff straight away, had one bottle left, and said for my purpose it is probably the best stuff I could buy - and they only charged me $22!
it is a standard repco line, but in most cases the staff at repco are too lazy to look it up on the computer, most bolt shops carry it also bursons, coventry and trade tool shops, definately worth the money, never had a tyre lift and the tyre can be repositioned before setting occurs
Started glueing my first set of tyres this week with Loctite 406.
First tyre pretty ordinary glue everywhere
Second tyre much better.
Do you guys rap electrical tape or rubber band around the tyre to keep pressure on the bead whilst the glue dries?
If you use a fast bonding glue it's a big task. I know this is the reason why some people prefer thicker 4-5 second glues rather than the instant thin stuff - so they can get the tyre seated properly. If you need to get old tyres off the rims, stick them in the oven or use acetone. I've never done it, I just chuck mine out, but I know some people who do it regularly.
To de-glue tyres (the inserts will be un-usable, but tyres and rim still perfect), you will need:
2 ltr NEW paint tin (must be tin, not plastic) from local paint shop ....... approx $5
1 ltr of Acetone from Bunnings..................... approx $10- $20
all regular safety stuff etc
Now empty acetone into paint tin,
Place mounted tyre into paint tin (may have to weight it down with something (ie: socket, nothing plastic),
Replace lid on tin and make sure it is sealed,
Leave for 24-48 hours,
Remove tyre and rim (all glue will be dissolved leaving rim, tyre and buggered insert)
Start re-gluing at your own pace (reseal tin as acetone evaporates in the atmosphere. Inside the sealed tin, my current batch is still good after 2 months)
This is the method I use and have had a 100% success rate.
Just a note, you said Loctite 406- this is the thin,clear,quick-dry stuff, the stuff I use is Loctite 480- the thick,black, slow-dry stuff.
i know this threads old, but does anyone know whether the above process for removing glued tyres will render them useless, or if you will be able to reuse them?
i thought that acetone eats away at anything plastic / rubber?
i want to paint my stock rims from the savage xl, and obviously dont want to have to buy new tyres for it
Thanks guys,
Yeh I tried to get 480 but couldn't get any local so went with the 406.
I did one tyre last night using electrical tape and it was heaps better so I'll try that till I get the panther rubbers.
SO......roughly how many tyres could you expect to glue out of 25ml?, a few people have commented but no one has pinned it down?, 18 to $25 seems quite expensive to the inexperienced here?....
One more question while we're on the topic, why hasn't anyone started making beadlocks as we 4wd'ers use???? Even though the initial outlay might be more expensive than glue to get a few pairs of specially designed beadlock rims, wouldn't it be great not to have to worry about glue!
All up, would have to say that i'm getting about 8-10 sets of tyres from 1 bottle.
It's OK saying "what if", but in reality, they don't make beadlocks in 1/10th scale, even the beadlocks for 1/8th that are out there are just too heavy for racing applications.
Personally, I don't care who uses what glue when and how, I thought I would let the populous know what I found to be useful at any particular time and then follow-up with specifications and reports on actual usage performance.
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