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Nitro Fuels

13K views 36 replies 21 participants last post by  zoomer 
#1 ·
I was interested in seeing wat brand of fuel australians use in there cars, as australia has limited range....and were you buy it from and cost, as i am trying to locate the cheapest nitro in brisbane..
 
#2 ·
PD,


I use HotStuff 20% (now 25%). It is available from Hobbyrama in Stafford (Northside of Brisbane). It is $43.95 for 2.5 litres.


I really like this fuel it is really low residual and therefore less gummy. Still makes good smoke, is 20% oil (5% castor, 15% synthetic), but burn really clean.


Regards,


AUSRC Admin
 
#7 ·
i use cool power 20% it is much better quaility the hotstuff my mates used it and as sson as they put it in 2 tanks later there engines needed replacing it is crap fueland that price is a rip off.


:::::: AUSRC.COM EDIT :::::::


Maxmod, please don't sledge every post you don't agree with. That is not what we are here for. I also deleted your next post in this thread. It added no value.


Regards, AUSRC.COM Admin.


:::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::Edited by: AUSRC
 
#9 ·
Please keep the thread on topic.


We are here to discuss what fuel we buy, how you personally find it, and how much you pay. If you don't use, have never used and don't intend to use it - don't comment.


If you have used it, comments are welcome. Keep it constructive please.


Regards,


AUSRC.COM Admin
 
#12 ·
Am shaking my head reading all you boys talking about the Biggest Bottles...
size don't count fellas, in fact large bottles of fuel are often bad.


Ok, time for some:


NITRO FUEL BASICS 101



Some chemistry... Nitro model fuel is a mixture of

  1. <LI>Oil: 10-20% by volume</LI>
    <LI>Nitromethane: 5, 10, 15, 20 and up to 40% for some racing fuels</LI>
    <LI>Methanol (methy alcohol): the rest of it</LI>
    <LI>Colouring, perfumes: sometimes added in tiny quantities</LI>


Your engine doesn't have an oil supply, it gets all its lubrication from the fuel going through it. If oil isn't coming out of your tailpipe, there might be insufficient oil going in - BAD!! Run your engine rich for longetivity, that feeds it lots of oil.


Castor oil has been used for decades... if its pure, it works great. Castor makes lots of nice smoke too (no smoke = no oil = BAD). However there's sometimes doubt as to quality of the castor in some fuels - with castor as in everything else, you pay for what you get - there's cheap & then there's the good pure stuff.


Synthetics don't make as much smoke normally and usually don't work as well under high-stress situations... would be better for low-stress airplanes its usually said.


Contrary to popular opinion... Nitromethane doesn't actually create 'power' by burning. No, its there to supply "oxygen" to the engine so it can burn its true fuel (methanol) better. Think of it like an RC nitrous oxide NOS setup.


Methanol is the burning bit.


However Methanol is ALSO very hygroscopic. It picks up water moisture from the air, and that makes the fuel go Off. Stale fuel doesn't burn well & makes your engine very hard to start, won't idle nicely and just plain difficult.


Generally speaking... don't keep your fuel more than 3-6 mths. That's TOTAL TIME folks, from the time the manufacturer bottled it at their factory. And once you've opened the bottle and you recap it half-used, it will go off even faster.


Good Fuel tips:-
<UL>
<LI>Buy multiple smaller bottles... there's usually higher turnover of small bottles so the stocks are fresher.</LI>
<LI>Buy fuel more often, don't buy more than what you're going to use within a month. Once open (texta the date on the bottle), use it up within a month or throw it away.</LI>
<LI>Always immediately re-seal the bottle after topping up. Don't leave it uncorked all day whilst you play.</LI>
<LI>Don't change nitro % willynilly. Stick to the same % as when you've run in the engine. Some say you should even do run-in again when changing your %. There isn't much reason to use more than 10-15% for bashing, its just more expensive for not much gain. </LI>
<LI>Avoid "imported" fuels... this is one industry were Local is Better. Foreign stuff would have spent several months in the distribution channel and many weeks on a boat (sea = damp!) - so unless you can buy fuel in TIN CANs (eg K&B brand), stay clear of all imported plastic bottles. Brandnames are worthless - Australia produces tons of methane/methanol too!</LI>
<LI>I'd also avoid any fuel that has some serious amts of colouring (purple? deep red?) and anything that has a fruity smell added to it. Both do nothing for combustion.</LI>
<LI>Don't store it on a concrete garage floor - that's damp! If it has to sit on the floor, sit it on a sheet of polystyrene foam or similar insulation/waterproof.</LI>
<LI>If your storage spot sees a big variance in temperature (hot day, night cold)everyday, you should consider putting your fuel into an Esky or thermal bag.</LI>
<LI>If you finish playing and there's still fuel in the tank... DON'T put that fuel back into the bottle!!! Throw the tank contents out immediately.</LI>
<LI>Always run a fuel filter, offroad especially.</LI>[/list]





And there's much to be said about using After Run Oil in your engine too, before putting it away.


But that's another story.
 
#13 ·
I have been using Super Drop Model EngineFuel made by The Hobby Headquaters in Kirrawee NSW.



Its 67 % Methyl Alc.

18 % oil

and 15 % Nitro



Its $14 a litre and I have no choice but to use it because its
the only brand u can get in Cairns and its the highest nitro
quantity the shop stocks. I know HPI suggest to use 20 %, will this
cause me any problem running 5% under ?



Has anyone else used this fuel ?
 
#14 ·
Odum said:
I know HPI suggest to use 20 %, will this cause me any problem running 5% under ?

Nitro % is not like octane rating in petrol.


Lesser nitro does NOT harm your engine. You can even use 0% if you need to.


Using 20% instead of 15% just means you get a little less power, and maybe your engine doesn't idle as smoothly. But if you've tuned it correctly for 15% then I'll bet it runs just fine - just make sure its FRESH. 15% fuel is cheaper than 20% too.





Oil %... now that's a different matter. Should always follow engine company's recommendation on that - usually they say 12-15% oil, or More is better. So don't buy fuel made for airplanes and helicopters for use in your car, sometimes these aircraft fuels have less than 10% oil.
 
#15 ·
Nitro also ignites at a lower temp than Methanol. This means, the higher the nitro %, the richer you can run, the cooler the glow plug you can run, and the cooler the engine will run if tuned correctly, for now real lose in power.


Regards,


AUSRC
 
#16 ·
hi people just a little worning for people that use Hot Stuff Model
Fuel there are 2 companies that make the fuel with the same label on
it! some bottles say 5% castor 15% synthetic but it actulally is only
synthetic!! ull know wot 1 u hav because u can smell the castor
burning. ( dont sniff it too much u can get very sick from it).
 
#18 ·
Took out the savage for breakin today


did first 1/2 tank in backyard then let cool down


then went to park


had a few problems with getting any power out of it ? it was ideling ok but not great and was boggy down low and had no power at all and wouldnt run properly


i changed glow plug from factory to duratex carbonand it ran a little better but still no power , tried every possible screw setting and combination and got it a little better but still no real power.


i am using glow-max cb 16% that is about 1 1/2 month old that i purchased in 4l size and have only used a litre since i got it.on my dom which is running all that good either at the moment


i think that the fuel must be off that can be my only thought as to why it just wont run and the temp got up to 300'f but then let cool down and it didnt get past 270'f on second tank but then gave up as getting dark and frustrated..


what do you people reckon ?? i think fuel is off .....imo


cruzn2
 
#21 ·
When you recap your nitro bottle, try squeeze out as much air as possible because it helps your fuel stay fresh.. Having 1/2 a litre in a2 or 4 litre bottle allows way to much air to remain in the bottle, and the fuel will absorb the moisture out of the air.. when u undo the cap next time some of your nitro will have evaporated into the extra air space thats in the bottle..


As for fuels, if you are running in summer or are just generall worried about oil %, go to tower hobbies and buy some "Klotz racing oil" and add a little bit..


Use this custom fuel blending workshop to help decide how much to use...


I used to use the Hot Stuff model fuel, "onroad racing" blend with16% nitro.. but i changed brands.. If they arent willing to state type of oils used + % of oil, i dont run it.. Hot stuff 2.5 litre is $29.50, and pink'ish in colour..


I changed to a brand called "Pro-glow" 16% model car competition fuel because they state 10% synthetic with 8% degummed castor oil right there on the front label... my engines run cooler now than they did with that hot stuff fuel which i *assume* had a LOT less castor oil.. the "pro glow" fuel is $22.50 for 2litres, and is brown in colour
 
#22 ·
Guys I'm new to nitro so be kind, Just ran my buggy in on 10% nitro (pro-Glow)


Runs sweet, no real problems, smooth power & no flat spots etc. So now it's time for some more fuel, I was thinking of Pro-Glow 15%.


Should I use the 15% nitro or stick with the 10% & play it safe ?





Thanks in Advance Terry
 
#23 ·
iff you change to 15% you should probably let it idle rich for a tank or so...like a mini break in so the engine can get used to the 15%. after that tank you can start to lean it out again...just keep an eye on temps....and to the guy that coulnt get any power after one tank...thats perfectly fine if tis only your second tank..therse nitro engines take a few tanks to get settled in..my s25 took 2 tanks idleing jus so it would hold a steady idle...once that is done i leaned it out 1/8th a turn every tank so after about 8 tanks of fuel the engine was still running rich to protect it but it was starting to show some decent power...basically just take it easy and dont expect the world from it when its only in nappies
 
#25 ·
ok, current crop listed above are:

HotStuff 20% now 25% Hobbyrama $43.95 for 2.5 litres

mr toys sells 20% 2L for 25.00

hobbyone fun power 43.23 for 2.5 litres

GLO -MAXX CB its $15 a litre and its a 10% nitro

GLO-MAX CB 16% Cost is $29aud for 2.5 litres

Super Drop Fuel made by Hobby Headquaters 15 % Nitro $14 a litre

Hot stuff "onroad racing" blend with 16% nitro 2.5 litre is $29.50

Pro-glow" 16% $22.50 for 2litres


Any more?
 
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